djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

Before i begin, if anyone sees any errors in execution etc let me know.

After having my Uncald4 enclosure for a couple months and playing with some settings, i have never been happy with the results. It never sounded like i knew it could. Having a pretty much exact setup in my previous car i know what it was capable of. Currently my setup consists of:

1x JL Audio HD 900/5
1x Boston Acoustics Pro Series 10.5
2x BA's for rear deck (yes i know about wasting time with the rear fill)
And stock fronts for now until i find time to get the BA Pro's for them. So the amp only powers the sub and rears off the pre-amp signal. No processing (yet).

Now onto the meat of the post. Some time ago there was a big discussion/argument over these enclosures and the volume not being correct. Either too small or not actually measured out to how they said it was built for certain subs.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/huge-uncald4-discount-3rd-gen-subwoofers-845270/

So i never fully liked the packing peanut method of calculating the actual internal volume of enclosures. Being these kind are very oddly shaped, i figured water is the best way to measure and calculate.

Here is how i did it.

1x plastic trash bag (goes in the enclosure since i have two holes in it for mounting)
1x empty 1 gallon jug
1x 2cup measuring cup



Enclosure without sub about to be unmounted and to put it on its back. I used duck tape and painters tape to hold the enclosure and trash bag in place respectively.



Making sure the trash bag was completely free to move in all directions in the enclosure in all the different spots I started with the 1 gallon jug to start the filling process.



As i got toward the top i then switched to the measuring cup.



Almost to the top



Keeping track of the water



Ended up very close to the top, couldn't get the enclosure the sit perfectly flat at the cutout. I also shifted it around some to make sure all the corners had water in them, and verified with my hand in the water.

At that point i ended up with 5 gallons and 6 cups worth of water in it.

Using my favorite online tool WolframAlpha (or you can do by hand) we get the conversion of water to cu ft.

http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i...ons+%2B+6+cups

What did we end up with? .7185 cu ft (not counting the small top leftover and maybe some small areas that were not filled)

What does my BA sub need? .5 cu ft

So this enclosure, for the BA sub, is plenty big. So my next step will be processing and front fills. Maybe i can get a stronger presence from my setup.

As for now i cant blame the enclosure

pohljm

area calculation is spot on. Now you just need to let that 900/5 rip bridged on some front components. use OEM amp for rear fill and perhaps add some insulation or somethin to that enclosure and your done!

Joey tl

Great info, good job. I have the same box with jl audio 10w6v2 which needs min .65 cu ft. Always wanted to know how big the box was. Thanks again

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

No problem, and thanks

Assuming all the enclosures are relatively the same size, unless you get a 12", then the numbers should be close for everyones enclosure.

I hate cars

You can always go 25% or more larger than manufacturer's spec. They will sound "tighter", "quicker", dig deeper and require less power. If they sound "boomy" a larger enclosure will likely solve that issue. A larger enclosure is a win-win. My W6s sounded better the larger the enclosure until I eventually went infinite baffle which yielded the best sound yet. I went from having to use every bit of my 1,300w amp to backing the gain off to under halfway in IB for the same output. Once you get used to the large enclosure sound, you will probably never go back.

If I were stuck with that particular enclosure I would attempt an aperiodic membrane.