Type S Best Sub woofer replacement
Type S Best Sub woofer replacement
Hey guys,
I am a happy new TL-S owner and theres only one thing that has disappointed me. The sound system. I mean the output is not as justified as expected. To cut the long story short, I would like to know two things:
1) What is a good after market sub that can be swapped with the factory sub.
2) What is the output of the factory amp thats pushing the factory sub.
I have this BAD BOY sitting in my bedroom, but honestly it's going to take too much space in the trunk and not to mention, 85 lbs of more weight to carry.


I am a happy new TL-S owner and theres only one thing that has disappointed me. The sound system. I mean the output is not as justified as expected. To cut the long story short, I would like to know two things:
1) What is a good after market sub that can be swapped with the factory sub.
2) What is the output of the factory amp thats pushing the factory sub.
I have this BAD BOY sitting in my bedroom, but honestly it's going to take too much space in the trunk and not to mention, 85 lbs of more weight to carry.


Last edited by mani; Nov 23, 2010 at 10:26 PM. Reason: Link for pics not working
This is actually the original Kicker enclosure. I'm not sure if getting a smaller box would have the same quality though.
Again, this bad boy is my last option. If I can sell this for 3 or 400 bucks, I would be more than glad to replace the fac. sub
Again, this bad boy is my last option. If I can sell this for 3 or 400 bucks, I would be more than glad to replace the fac. sub
There are no aftermarket subs that will improve the sound. The weak point is that the factory radio and amplifier is pushing at peak 40W @ 2ohm to the factory free air sub.
If your worried about space then sell that and buy a 10" sub in a ported/sealed box with your amp. Check out Audioque, Sundown...eh..just look on the car audio forums for quality brands haha. Going with a 10" will cut that box in half (just judging by apparent size in the picture) and will still have plenty of bass for ya.
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I just had two Rockford tens put in and had the amp side mounted. I had the wires extra long so I can take the box out if needed and it has made a hell of a lot of difference in the sound. I had one twelve in there and it just did not sound as good. I think adding a extra volume control switch for your subs is a must also, IMO.
The factory mids and highs are not as weak as the sub. They can wait until later if you have to do one and then the other.
I put a 12" Q in a fiberglass enclosure in the rear corner running about 1300W. It takes up very little space and absolutely slams. If you can get a high efficiency amp (usually means higher resistance near 4 ohms), then you can push these over 1000W with the stock alternator and battery with no dimming and still have room for a component amp.
My system is about 14 pounds for the box, 40 for the sub (what shipping box said - I have not weighed it), 7 for the amp and the weight of the wire.... about 65 pounds or so.
There are some REALLY, REALLY nice 10s that take less than .5 cubic feet and sound great.
I put a 12" Q in a fiberglass enclosure in the rear corner running about 1300W. It takes up very little space and absolutely slams. If you can get a high efficiency amp (usually means higher resistance near 4 ohms), then you can push these over 1000W with the stock alternator and battery with no dimming and still have room for a component amp.
My system is about 14 pounds for the box, 40 for the sub (what shipping box said - I have not weighed it), 7 for the amp and the weight of the wire.... about 65 pounds or so.
There are some REALLY, REALLY nice 10s that take less than .5 cubic feet and sound great.
I'll be selling my custom fiberglass vinyl covered box, jl 12v6, jl 500w amp, kinetic battery... but you will need to soundproof the trunk, breaded it or dynamat it.
The highs and mids are ok in the car, feed two bars more to central speaker.
The stock sub cannot be replaced with anything better, it works best when it is disconnected
The highs and mids are ok in the car, feed two bars more to central speaker.
The stock sub cannot be replaced with anything better, it works best when it is disconnected
i'll be selling my custom fiberglass vinyl covered box, jl 12v6, jl 500w amp, kinetic battery... But you will need to soundproof the trunk, breaded it or dynamat it.
The highs and mids are ok in the car, feed two bars more to central speaker.
The stock sub cannot be replaced with anything better, it works best when it is disconnected
The highs and mids are ok in the car, feed two bars more to central speaker.
The stock sub cannot be replaced with anything better, it works best when it is disconnected

The factory mids and highs are not as weak as the sub. They can wait until later if you have to do one and then the other.
I put a 12" Q in a fiberglass enclosure in the rear corner running about 1300W. It takes up very little space and absolutely slams. If you can get a high efficiency amp (usually means higher resistance near 4 ohms), then you can push these over 1000W with the stock alternator and battery with no dimming and still have room for a component amp.
My system is about 14 pounds for the box, 40 for the sub (what shipping box said - I have not weighed it), 7 for the amp and the weight of the wire.... about 65 pounds or so.
There are some REALLY, REALLY nice 10s that take less than .5 cubic feet and sound great.
I put a 12" Q in a fiberglass enclosure in the rear corner running about 1300W. It takes up very little space and absolutely slams. If you can get a high efficiency amp (usually means higher resistance near 4 ohms), then you can push these over 1000W with the stock alternator and battery with no dimming and still have room for a component amp.
My system is about 14 pounds for the box, 40 for the sub (what shipping box said - I have not weighed it), 7 for the amp and the weight of the wire.... about 65 pounds or so.
There are some REALLY, REALLY nice 10s that take less than .5 cubic feet and sound great.
If you want to get a new 10", here are some that I have liked in smaller boxes. Look all of these up since I am going off of a terrible, old memory which is probably wrong. These all sound great which is normally what I am looking for.
Sound Solution ICON needs about .75
Image Dynamics IDQ 10 needs about 2/3s
FI Q 10 is less than .5
These are all in the 200 range.
These other guys are right - you might as well try out your current sub in the right box first. You can always sell it later - just don't throw away this box just in case.
Sound Solution ICON needs about .75
Image Dynamics IDQ 10 needs about 2/3s
FI Q 10 is less than .5
These are all in the 200 range.
These other guys are right - you might as well try out your current sub in the right box first. You can always sell it later - just don't throw away this box just in case.
For small size with great sound go with a phoenix gold xmax they are a little old but these baby rock I was first suggested them by my friend who owns a car audio store because I needed a small box for my single cab truck box total is 1.5 cubic feet for Max sound quality
For small size with great sound go with a phoenix gold xmax they are a little old but these baby rock I was first suggested them by my friend who owns a car audio store because I needed a small box for my single cab truck box total is 1.5 cubic feet for Max sound quality
Just buy a JL W7 10 or whatever your budget allows, and push it with that amp and call it a day. Of course I'm prejudiced as I have the 12" in my prelude with a 1000 watt amp. Sounds great. Have used Boston Pros (more SQ than boom), Infinity, Polk, but none of the smaller brands. Also off topic, but the JL Audio Home subs are incredible and I believe they are using the same W7 driver.
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