K. I'll try that on the ride home and see if it helps. Gotta love having a little Palm for quick adjustments and the laptop for full blown tuning adjustments. Damn you all for getting me addicted lol

 

Don't forget that a 6.5" speaker beams around 2,700hz regardless of brand or quality. You might be running into beaming. If the shallower slope doesn't work, try a 2,600hz crossover point. You might be losing 2600 to 3,000hz and that might make the mid and tweeter sound separated.

 

I'll have to look up beaming. Saw that at DIYMA once a few weeks ago but didn't know what it meant. I'll go try a 12db slope on tweeter (or should I do it on other stuff too?) AND lower mid LP to 2600. Thanks IHC

 

It's where the speaker stops dispersing sound in all directions and beams the sound only in a straight line. If the speaker is aimed right at you, it's ok but if it's off axis like in the doors, you hear it as output falling off very badly. You might hear the passenger door and not the driver's door when this happens since one is more off axis than the other.

Here's a chart of frequencies that different sizes beam at. Beaming is based only on size, it doesn't matter the brand or material, only when the wavelength being played becomes smaller than the diameter of the cone.

http://greenboy.us/fEARful/frequencytables.htm

 

Nice! good info thanks

I'll save that to my Car Audio file. Starting a file with good info I find everywhere. One of these days I'm going to make a big thread with helpful topics like on DIYMA.

 

The interesting thing is a 1" tweeter beams at 13k. I'm guessing since it's a dome you don't have the same issues. That's what I was trying to find out last night without making a post on DIYMA if domes are less affected by beaming. I have my 3" mid at 6k which is past it's beaming point but there's no change in sound. Probably going to have to break down and start a topic about it since I can't find any info.

 

12db slope sounds better but dropping it to 2600kHz didn't really do much for me. I'm going to try the ID tweeters tomorrow. Also, what does distortion sound like? If I use test tones, how do I know where my mids are at full excursion and sounding the best they can without distortion without taking off the door panel and actually see the excursion. On a few songs I get a sort of resonance/reverberation/hollow type sound out of the mids (unsure of what frequency or range this occurs at but I'm trying to find it). I don't think that's distortion per say, but does that mean the speaker has to much gain or anything like that on it??


By the way....VERY weird thing happened to me just now. I was tuning and playing around in my car for about 30-45 minutes (car running) and when I got out I took the key out, and it kept playing. Opened the door....kept playing. WTF. Got out and shut the door...music kept playing lol. What's that about?? I probably looked like an idiot standing there next to my car with my keys just staring at it....

 

There's a local meet with a few guys on DIYMA here soon so I think I'll go to that just to get a feel of what I should be hearing and what accurate reproduction sounds like. They all seem to be very knowledgeable and have solid setups. Should be a good learning tool. I wish I lived closer to some of you all...make this much easier

 

Distortion can sound several different ways. In the tweeters you might notice it as harshness. Sometimes the system sounds muddy. There's the obvious "breakup".

Be warned about listening to those SQ cars. I was perfectly happy with my old system then I heard ChicoOG and Neel's competition cars and went home and ripped my whole system out. It's a very good idea to listen to others' cars. It shows you where you're lacking and gives an idea of how yours can sound.

See if someone will help you tune what you have. I've had my Dynaudio set sound very plain and average, basically like the stock system and I've had it muddy and then super bright. With the right tune it sounds like a $1,400 comp set. With just one wrong adjustment it sounds like stock or worse.

One thing I've been doing a lot lately is plugging the headphones into my iPod, listening to a couple songs over and over and the plugging the iPod into the car and trying to get it to sound the same. One area I was lacking was the snare of a snare drum. Adjusting crossover points first and then printing out an eq tutorial and adjusting the correct frequencies got me an awesome snare drum and a lot of pop to the system without it being harsh. You would be surprised how frequencies you wouldn't even associate with a certain instrument or sound can affect it. Your processor has a 31 band eq, right?

Where did you pull your remote wire from? Any chance of the battery wire crossing over and hitting the remote side?

 

Remote is out of Fuse #32 in drivers kick panel. So like this:

Fuse Panel -> 3sixty.2 -> Both Amps

- I get a slight turn on pop from the rear also. Very slight and hardly audible but it's there. I think it might be from my rear speakers actually. I'm also getting a whine through the tweeters thats audible with no volume on. Not sure if it's a bad ground point or what but I've seperated the RCA's away from the power/ground wires and it's still doing it so I dunno.

 

Does the 360 turn the amps on or are they all turned on by the same remote wire?

 

It's one remote wire from fuse to 360. Then 2 16ga. wires out to the amps. So 3 all jammed in that remote slot on the 360 lol. Is there any other way to do it?? It's not that bad at all..just figured If I can get rid of it then why not.

I really want to figure out why I'm getting whine through my tweeters. It's alt whine I believe as the pitch increases when I press the gas or accelerate. Also, when just sitting in park and I start the car...it sounds like a loop if that makes sense. It will start and then get higher and higher pitched, then go back down and get lower and lower pitched. Very weird!

 

That's fine, I was just trying to eliminate the 360. The MS8 has a remote in then a remote out that you have to run to your amps. You can't run the same remote wire to the MS8 and to the amps.

That is a weird problem. What does that fuse go to?

 

Fuse #32 is the ACC fuse

 

That's pretty weird. I have mine on the outside temp fuse. I think it was #9 but it's been 5 years since I looked. I had a shop run the orginal amp kit because I was working out of town and had no time and I've retained the remote wire. You can try this just to eliminate everything else. There may be some reason the accessory is staying hot. I'm thinking how your BT stays hot for up to 10 minutes after the car is shut down. You don't have to keep it that way but it would eliminate all of the aftermarket equipment.

 

Alright so the Problem lies with the remote wire I believe. When the car is off, keys out, and all electronics off...I jiggle the remote wires OR press them further into the 3sixty.2 and my stuff powers on (headunit,3sixty.2, both amps, all speakers). Kinda weird. Not sure what's going on but I don't want my car to just turn on music in the middle of the night. Is my car a transformer?

 

Maybe your remote wire is hooked up to the all spark?

 

How did you set the internal switch for the remote line? There's an internal switch that allows you to choose whether to use it as a remote out (automatically senses signal that turns on the processor and then you can run a line out to the your amps) or remote in (using an external line like in a normal setup) ... if you've already addressed this, please ignore everything i wrote thus far lol

Also, I believe the 360 is known for producing a little whine/noise ... are your tweeters producing an alternator whine or is it a constant noise? I too have a slight noise that I could not get rid of after different rca/line placements, several new ground points, different amp placements, etc. - it is either the unit itself (which supposedly has a history of producing a little whine) or the high ouputs of our stock amp (if that's the way you've hooked up your own system as well)

I've learned to live with the minor whine for the time being since my audio is usually on anyways

 

I have not heard of this. Not sure how to get to this switch or which one it needs to be on for my setup. I don't see it in the manual. I'll check again though.

Also, I get a constant noise through the tweeters AND alt. whine. In increases pitch with acceleration. I'll mute the tweeters through the 3sixty.2 and see what happens. I'll pull the RCA's and see what happens also. This remote thing is very weird though. I've pulled the small connector with power/ground/remote as I got a horribly loud POP while driving last night. Scared the shit out of me and I thought for sure it would have fucked something up, but luckily I don't think it did. Seems to be working like normal. I just need to figure out if the remote wire is touching the power wire while in the connector or something like that. never ending it seems....

 

On page 7 of the installation & operation guide - top of the page it states the two options

It states in using the connector "as an output: You need to contact customer service for proper procedure to reconfigure the unit to set the REM as an output" - customer service will basically tell you what's been stated in a thread I created - post #58 by fourthmeal (https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=771125&page=2)

"you can turn on the 3sixty2 with a signal sense and have the unit output a 12v signal to amps. Gotta pull the case, and flip the remote sense switch to "out" I think it is.
Then the 3sixty2 will pick up on the signal from the speaker wire feeding into it."

^Might be worth a try to check it out!

EDIT: I found that setting this connector as an output, which thereby would automatically sense a signal to turn on the unit, is not a great option to use as it used to keep the unit on even with the key out of the ignition ... it would be worth the time to check that the switch is set to the input option so that you can use a remote line from the acc fuse to power the processor as well as daisy-chain it to your amplifiers

 

So check to make sure the jumper is in the "ON" (or something like that) spot? I'll go take it apart now and check. Found it in the manual. Thanks!

 

^Should be "out" or "in" - you'd want it to be switched to the "in" option

Just one thing to check off for peace of mind lol

 

Did you ever snap any photos of your MLV / CCF application? Will be going through SDS for that stuff and wanted to see how you implemented everything.

Also, where all did you apply MLV/CCF besides your doors? Did you apply any MLV to the floor or wheel wells? Looking at your order, if you didn't then I'll need to add about 30-35 sq ft to handle both of those.

I already have some AlphaDamp so I will probably cut the CLD tile order down to 5-10 (in case I run out of AD). Will probably also add some butyl rope for ad-hoc vibration/rattle reduction.

On that note, did you have any dash/interior rattle problems that a lot of TL owners have? I do, so I'm going to have to find and fix all of those while I'm deadening...

 

.

 

Oh..by the way....with the CCF and MLV the door panel is a BEOTCH to fit back on. I had to cut a few places along the edges so it'd lay flatter where all the little door clips are.

Damn...I just remembered I never put in the screws that are under the vertical door handle. I bet that'll help secure the panel a bit more. Those are a PITA to get in there though. And with the added depth of the CCF and mainly MLV...I might need a longer screw. The 2 little screws behind the door handle feel somewhat secure, but I think they're just in the MLV and feel that way because the material is sooo dense. Need to find longer ones for there too. Hm...thanks for the reminder I guess lol

 

Thanks. If you do take the panel off again, some pics would be awesome. My biggest concern is not applying this stuff; it's trying to get the panel on afterwards (and it sounds like that was a giant PITA for you).

PS - what was that white fabric you removed? Does it need to go back on, or was it some crappy MLV?

 

.

Honestly, I drilled a few small holes along the very bottom of the door panel and put a screw in the bottom right and bottom left of the panel. You can see them as they are where the panel reverts back towards the metal on the door. I sharpied them black too....I doubt you'd even notice if I took a pic. But yes, it's a tight fit but well worth it if you want top notch audio

The white stuff is a like a very thin rubber/elastic material. No idea what they were trying to accomplish with it but you just remove that and most of the yellow gunky crap they used to glue it on. No need to have that on there

 

This is very rough and pics were taken just as I completed it. I still need to do quite a few things..

- finish wiring
- pick up 3 short RCA's as mine are all 3' and I need about 6" RCA's
- get a slightly longer power cable so the red power cable going to the Q450.4 will go behind the Audison (with the audison power wire also) and out of the way of the RCA's, etc.
- pick up some tech-flex or something to hide all the wires so it looks a little nicer. Not a huge priority now, but still would like to do it at some point


The top "floor" is in 3 pieces and all are easily removable. The bottom is one middle piece with the supports attached. A small indention/handle was put in the board (like the factory floor piece has) to be able to still pick it up and access the spare. The far left top piece looks like it's seperated, but it's just a shadow. Fits like a glove!









Nasty wiring at the moment...this will be cleaned up!

 

Looks good! That box really is shallow. Now it's time to bring out the vacuum cleaner!

 

Looks really good...how does it sound?

 

Thanks. Haha yeah I do need to vacuum. Took them out to show the g/f the bottom where the amps are and she set them on the ground in mulch. FACEPALM

The box is only 10" deep and it's right up near the seats. Basically an inch or 2 behind where an IB panel would go. I think this route is a must for anyone doing sealed. It's just dumb to not do this and have something take up more space. Taking that stupid plastic piece off the ski-pass makes a big difference in area for the sub too. There's only about 1" on either side of the sub that isn't visible from the cabin.

Jerry, haven't finished it up yet. I'll finish wiring everything tonight after work. Everything is in the trunk and just needs to be connected. All my grounds are good to go lets hope!

Anyone need two 3 foot premium RCA's from monoprice? About to order some shorter one's unless you have some short one's Jerry. I need a about 3' of 4gauge wire too...if anyone is feeling generous lol. Not a big deal, but I don't want my power crossing my RCA's and it'll look much nicer the other way.


OHH...btw....does anyone know where to buy some of the clips that hold the top trunk liner, etc in place? Not the big one's with a large head and screws, I'm talking about the black plastic one's. With everything I've done I have seemed to break damn near every single one lol

 

^ dealer for the clips. You can get bags of them if you want.

How do you keep it cool in there? Any fans or anything?

 

Thanks JDA. No fans, yet. Not quite sure what I need to do to install a few fans (push-pull style). They're cheap so I'd like to do it, but I don't know what it takes to hook them up.

I'm having some trouble finding RCA's less than 1.5'. Anyone know of any place that has them?

 

Keep 'em long. Your next setup might need more than 6 inches. If you are going to hide it, then just leave it functional.

12-14V DC fan wired to accessory and ground will work. I don't know about push/pull, but I would put one near each amp. ...it isn't like it gets hot in Oklahoma.

 

Yeah I'll hang on to the 3' RCA's, but I'll just pick up a few of their 1.5' rca's so there's not quite so much slack. I wish I could make my own rca's but I don't know how to solder.

I've been reading up a little (and not working lol) on how to wire up some fans and it seems like most recommend to use a relay. Not sure if it's required, beneficial or whatnot...I just want to make sure I don't short something out or burn my car to the ground. That would suck. JDA, you say to just wire it to the remote and ground and it should be good? I guess that's basically what a relay is...except it has a fuse or you can put a fuse on it or something. I dunno what I'm talking about, obviously. You're right though, it gets so damn hot here and I probably need to get some fans in there asap. I'll just pick up a few fans from Newegg that I used on my computer build. The good thing, though I'm not really sure just how much this will affect it, is that there's a gap between the sub box and the ski-pass at the top about 2" or so that will allow some cool air flow from the cabin to get into the trunk. Hey....every little bit helps lol. I'm beginning to think that a class AB 4-channel wasn't a good idea, but hopefully it'll hold up!

 

You can pick up a relay for a few bucks and wire it up. The power, ground and remote are all back there already.

Just using the remote should be fine if the fans draw very little amperage. A add-a-fuse of 10 or 15 should be fine just for a few fans.

Don't sweat it (pun not intended) the AB - it is fine.