I left work early to try and patch things up
Drilled new holes, further back. i thought about touching up the old holes with touchup (like Crook mentioned) didn't have any paint handy though. I had a bitch of a time getting the license plate back on with the bracket further back. I filed it the plastic down and all. Finally got it back together before dinner.

What a difference!!! I thought seeing 8' behind my car was ok (so I don't run over the family dog/kid) ...now I see 30'+. But the peripheal view is the real bonus.

I didn't realize how much of the back part (solid gray) that needed to be dremeled to make it fit. (more than the striped shiney part). Thanks to all for thier input, I only hope my words help others DIY's.


PS: Good idea Crook, remove the plugs to "test" placement.

 

I moved the camera bracket back 1/2". Took these pics at my office, same spot for both pictures.

BEFORE


AFTER

 

Perfect!!!

 

MUCH BETTER! I'd fill up those holes so water doesn't get in, possibly when washing the car

 

another thing guys...

Please do not use solely on the camera to back up. The camera reduces your blindspots significantly but does not eliminate them. Use the camera in conjuction with your mirrors.

Trust me on this one... I almost hit another car (within inches) by just looking at the camera.

 

I really don't want to take the license plate off again....camera is taking a beating and so is my car

What would you guys use to plug the holes up? I am thinking of plugging them from the inside (can access through the holes inside the trunk.

 

Kenny is right on this one! Be careful.

I kind of wish I had a "switch" to turn the cam on when driving just to see how close the car behind me is to me. I could wire one and then splice to dvd signal video in...but don't know if it is worth it.

People get a little worried when they are behind me and I put my car in reverse just to see how close they are to my bumper.

 

why not just run a switched 12V line to the camera? That;s what I'm gonna do.

 

Oh, that sounds good. But you still need a switch to turn it on when you want right? With the switch off it would go back to the automatic on....?

 

Please disregard above post. I was editing it (after i saw the word "switched") and ran out of time (wish the rule was 10 mins to edit a post I have some extra wires in the console (from a sound splitter i removed) that go to the trunk.

One dumb question, how do you run a switched 12v?

 

Well, I'd need to know your setup, but it should if I understand you correctly.

Here's my scenario:
I have a monitor for my carpc in my dash. The monitor has several auxiliary inputs, one of which is automatically switched upon receiving a signal. Now, this is perfect for a backup camera, and I believe many of you are using Dom's TVandNav2go to achieve this same functionality. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

All I have to do is wire 12V+ to the camera to make it come on, right? Yes, so I'll tap 12V+ from the reverse lights. When I put the car in reverse, the lights come on, camera comes on, thereby generating a signal- at which point my monitor automatically switches to the auxiliary input for as long as the signal is present.

With this setup, all I have to do is give the camera power to make it come on. So this means all I have to do is supply 12V+ to the camera, effectively wiring a switch for control, to turn it on at my desire.

 

You would just run a wire from your power source (battery) to the camera. Splice in a switch, mount it at your convenience, and make sure you put a fuse within the first 18" of your power source (for safety).

 

All my camera wiring is in the trunk. I ran a wire from the reverse lights and then spliced in the camera power wire and the doms box wire. For the switch I was thinking of wiring a switched 12v to camera/doms box wire....therefore when on the camera and box will get the necessary power...when the switch is off it will rely on the reverse lights.

 

I have a power wire coming from the fuse box --> trunk. All electronics (dom's box, dvd player) are powered from that wire. I could run a new power wire to the cam (like I said above)...just never wired a switch like this.

 

you could certainly distribute power from here using another line, but it would be redundant to run it forward and then back again since you would need the switch near the driver seat! It sounds like you realize what you need to do. Let me know if it's still unclear.

 

Power is already in the trunk (would splice into it and run it to the cam).

I have three "extra" wires in the trunk that run to the center console. Nothing is hooked into them (it is from the old audio switch I took out). I would like to use the extra wires in the console, hook up a new switch. I just don't know how to use the power in the trunk and the wires in the console to make a switched 12v.

I feel I am close (since the wires and power are already run)....I appreciate any input.

 

easy enough...you will use two of the three wires that you already have run. We'll call them wire A and wire B.

1. In the trunk, tap wire A to your power source that runs to Dom's unit. Tap wire B to the 12V+ for the camera.

2. In the center console, tap the ends of A and B to the switch of your choice.

3. Crank up the car and switch the camera on whenever you so desire.

4. Laugh because you just saved a couple of hours wiring since it was already done!

 

I just realized that Dom's blue wire is the 12V+ trigger which gets wired to the reverse lights. If you have the unit wired correctly to turn on with your reverse lights and you wire a switch to the same blue wire supplying 12volts, you'll flick the switch and see the image from the camera and at the same time turn your reverse light on too.
Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

If my above post is correct, you can use a 12 volt relay at Dom's box to trigger the camera. Wire it so that when the relay is in rest or non -triggered position, it is set up to send the reverse light's 12V signal through the relay and to the blue wire of Dom's box. You will need a constant 12v source to trigger the camera via a switch and to power the relay. You can use the same 12V source that you already have Dom's box powered up with as long as it can handle the juice. For safer wiring, you can just run your 12V+ wires to the relay and then set it up on a negative trigger.(relay is activated by a switch which connects it to (-)ground. Run this wire to your switch and connect it to one terminal and then ground the other terminal nearby. Perhaps you can find a grounded screw or bolt that it already gounded in the console. Test and retest before you put it all back together.
I'm sorry if I'm confusing some of you but this is just an idea to get a switch to work with the camera.
If you search search the web for Bosch 12V relay, you'll see some example diagrams or schematics to help you figure it out.
Good luck and remember not to use your tongue as a volt meter!

 

This is exactly right. Thanks for the info on Dom's box. I didn't realize there was a trigger wire, this blue one.

 

I thought about doing the same thing. I was going to use the rear window defrost switch with 2 diodes (so putting the car in reverse would not turn on the rear window defroster and rear window defrost would not turn on back-up lights). I did not find easy access to the plug and guessed it is near the aux tail light (top of rear window).

Here is a diagram:
-----------------------------------diode---------------------------diode
[rear window defrost]---------|>|------[camera power]----|<|---------[tail lights]

Scott

 

Wow, now that is smooth. I might just have to use this idea. Why would you have to use the plug? I wonder where the wiring comes down at?

 

For the defrost thing... does that mean that whenever your rear defrost is on, your camera is displayed on your Navi screen? Here in Canada when it's cold, we actually NEED the defrost. So, that wouldn't work for us. Oh well, I'll think of something else, cuz I'd definitely like to have the rear view camera on a switch.

 

Im gunna run some cat5 to the center console incase I want to hook up a switch... Or something.

 

Yes, but in Arizona, Rear Defroster is used very rarely, if at all.

 

This sounds like it will work fine (gotta wire juice to the camera wire too--i have the camera and blue wire tapped to the same wire from the reverse light). I am not too keen on the reverse lights going on when I hit the switch...but at least I can use the cam when I am driving on the highway

 

Just use a diode to keep the lights from coming on in this scenario

 

Question:

If I didn't want such a distorted view from the rear camera, would getting a 70-somthing degree camera be a good choice?

I basically want the rear cam to help out with seeing exactly where my bumper is when parking...I don't have kids to run over

 

Just curious as to whether the silver "wider-angle" back-up camera is still available for purchase and if so, what is the price on it. Thanks guys. Appreciate the info. BTW. KennyC and ITL, a lot can be learned from these guys, and I applaud your willingness to get into these cars and figure them out and above all, share your knowledge.

 

hehe thanks for the compliment!!

 

To revive this thread, I'm about to do some prewiring for the camera and DVD (I have Doms unit but not the camera or DVD) since once I wire up Dom's, the camera can be done just from the trunk.

Here is my plan.

1) Run a dedicated power from the fuse box to Doms
2) Run a switched power (with spliced in switch NOT key switched(see more below)) back to the camera.
3) Run Video 2 switch from Dom's up front
4) Wire switched power from front, camera trigger from doms, and camera power, to the + of the back up light, connected like this.
Switch +12--->|----+ of Camera Trigger----+ of Camera----+----|<-----+ of reverse light.
(make sense)
5) Then wire the switched power and Dom video2 into a single DPDT switch, so that
When the switch is in the center, Video 2 is off, switched power is off and Camera will be triggered by the reverse lights.
When in #1 on position the switched power will be on and the camera will come on and display
When in #2 on position the video 2 is ON and the DVD(or whatever is hooked to video 2 on doms) will be displayed but the camera will still override this if the reverse lights come on.

So basically I will have a single/simple switch which will allow the camera to be turned on at any time or swith to the DVD input.

Now I just need to find a nice subtle switch.

 

That sounds cool and all... Not sure why you want to turn a reverse camera on "at will" though. Power to ya I guess.

I'm still an advocate for pulling the power from Dom's unit right off the DVD player (pin 2 of the 8 pin connector).
Dom's unit draws very little power, and that circuit already is already fused. There's really no need in all the extra work.

 

hi i was wondring if you have the camera in stock my my e-mal is stevenlb22@yahoo.com

 

No, sorry.

This was a one time deal that happened way back when.

 

Is anyone still interestd in getting one of these cameras?
If there is enough interest, I am willing to take on the task of ordering them and distributing them to everyone once they arrive.
I would have ordered from ebay, but it looks like wendy has started carrying a different model now.

Reply back and let me know if you're interested. Like the last person who organized this, I would need some sort of deposit up front. Cost will probably still be around $115 shipped to you.
The options would be:
MS-AC24R-N - 70 degree viewing angle. 0.5 Lux. NTSC
MS-AC44R-N - 165 degree viewing angle, 0.5 Lux. NTSC

 

How did the 165 degree turned out to be? A fish eye or a real 165' coverage?

 

is this camera ship to toronto.
Thanks

 

I don't have any camera, so I can't answer this. Hopefully someone else who owns this camera can answer your question.

 

I hooked up both cameras to my car, and decided hands down to go with the 44R. The 24R didn't give me enough coverage. I posted a comparison, check out post #83 of this thread (page 4, I think).

 

If someone can arrange another group buy I'm game.