AcUrAfIeNd32

So thanks to TLNoob and a bunch of great Aziners i did my research to find out Sundown Audio is actually a great line of subs but now i need help figuring out a good maybe great AMP that is extremely expensive i can purchase to withstand the powerful cleans subs, also i want to buy and extra mod that helps me hear my mids and highs a bit better with the added woofers since im using and LOC and not switching out my factory nav

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

No problem man. I'm guessing you meant "extremely inexpensive amp"...if not, we'll have fun picking out stuff to max your budget haha. So what I'm getting is you want to get an amp and a set of components? Correct?

1. What's your budget for amp and components? Your probably going to have to buy a component amp, components, AND a sub amp as it will be tough finding a 4 channel that can put out enough for the SA-12.


2. Do you already have a box or will you get one built? Also, are you doing the install?

Edit: Nevermind, I saw in your other post you said you'll need someone to do the install/etc.

jda123

I would buy a higher quality used amp rather than a cheap new amp. Look on craigslist for some older/used amps that will fill your needs. Keep in mind that cheaper amps are not as efficient (usually), you can overheat them, dim your lights from large electricity needs, distort significantly at high volumes or just flat out blow them.

How much wattage, and what resistance, are you going to run the sub off of? Post this, and a price, and you might get some suggestions.

Without knowing a price, I have always loved the Memphis Belle (the 1300 version) as a pretty good 5 channel amp, but they are more like $400 used. This belle can go 75-100+ on components and 1000+ on the sub (at 1 ohm stable).

AcUrAfIeNd32

yeah TLNoob i meant inexpensive lol (not rockerfeller) and im thinking to pay no more than $350 to $400 for and amp, the SA i found was $194 so its just a matter of a good amp that wont damage the car like jda said. i can get someone to install but i wanna get all the parts i saw the alpine m1000 but idk if that would do justice

@jda alaska craigslist is horrible

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Lol @ Alaska craigslist. That sucks because there 3 alpine m1000's next to me goin for around $150. Craigslist is great when you just need budget stuff. Where are you at in Alaska and maybe a few of us can check it out to see if there's anything good.

So $350-$400 on an amp...you won't need to spend that much if you buy just an sub amp to drive that SA-12. If your going to run components for sure then its just a game of finding out where it's cheaper/enough power for you to run your sub/components on a 4-channel or buying a sub amp and a component amp. You could spend around $200 and make out pretty well for the actual components. Also, you gotta think about the price of a box. Don't buy anything online as they will be tuned WAY to high and be poorly made 99% of the time.

AcUrAfIeNd32

im in anchorage,alaska and are you serious $150! thats just chaps my a** lol yeah i think the only thing i should buy online is the Sa-12 but its gonna take forever to find the amp and i think ill have someone make the box for me ( one of these car audio places around here)

AcUrAfIeNd32

Kicker zx 1000/1 2 ohm stable amp, works great! $300 firm....

Memphis 1000/1 1 ohm stable amp, works great! $250

"those two were on craigslist..."

jda123

What is the final ohm load that you are going to run?

Hard to suggest amps without knowing.

AcUrAfIeNd32

im thinking to run 2 ohms but whats the best thing to do?

AcUrAfIeNd32

im thinking to buy one SA-12 form woofers etc and have one of these dealers build the box for me, btw whats the best way for them to build the box?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I'd try to get the amp situation figured out first. If you can find a 1ohm stable amp that'd be great as they're usually better but I'll check your craigslist and see what ya got.

Since your running 1- 12" you can either:

2ohm DVC sub ---> 1ohm into amp

or

4ohm DVC sub ---> 2ohm into amp

AcUrAfIeNd32

ok well you will probably have better luck than i will searching but if you happen to see some thing do let me know

eggyhustles

You're doing shit backwards. Sub setup should be done last, not first.

For starters, get rid of the loc and invest in a processor. Source is most important and a cheap loc is the shitty way to go about things.

Next, change your speakers, get a 4 channel amp, and sound deaden the doors & trunk area.

After that, get the sub

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

For a budget system the components aren't all "that" bad and especially if the user just wants to add a sub, plus he's got a budget and I'm not here to try and expand that. With the SA-12 though, it will overpower you front soundstage. There's really no "perfect" way to do a setup on a budget as you'll just have to add as you go. Some people might think that go in the order of components/deadening/sub while others might do sub/components/deadening...and so forth. Just depends on the equipment available, especially for a budget system, and the budget. He already stated he wanted to add components so maybe after his component/amp/sub install he can deaden the car but it all depends on how much he spends for amps, components, etc.

If it was me I would do it like eggy is suggesting but you need to either be patient and build your system over time or have a big budget and purchase all at once. You'll be fine with components, amp(s), and the SA-12. I mean if you've never heard of Sundown or know much about car audio then you might now really appreciate or feel the need (price-wise) to do a processor, etc.

Deadening will most definitely cross your mind though haha. If you can squeeze it into the budget while you have the door panels off then that'd be great. I'm sure it's not very hard to remove the door panels and wherever else you'd like to deaden so you can save some $$ there. Once again, its up to you and your budget.

eggyhustles

As soon as he adds that sub, the front stage is gonna be completely drowned out.

It could be done, though if he's patient.

When u get the sub, make sure it's the dual 2 ohm version that way it can be wired to 4 ohms. I'd shoot for the 15 if possible. It doesn't cost much more than the 12 and the box won't be that much bigger. 2.6 for the 12 and around 3.2 cubes for the 15

For the amp, get this http://www.crescendoaudio.com/produc...roductid=17516

You'll get 125 x 2 for the front stage and 500 x 1 bridged @ 4 for the sub

jda123

Most low-cost amps run at 1 ohm are not efficient and have higher distortion. That being said, you can probably overcome the inefficiency and probably won't notice the distortion at most listening levels with a sub.

I try to run all of my subs at 4 ohms for maximum efficiency and sound quality. The drawback is that these amps are MUCH more expensive. ...but it is only money.

Here are a few amps that I might suggest for older AB class 2 channel amp that you will likely bridge to 4 ohms - a lot of these were sold and you can probably find some. These will do about 600ish real watts. This means that you need to get a sub with 2 ohm voice coils (dual). AB amps are not too terribly efficient and the distortion will go up when you bridge them:
Fosgate 500a2, 800a2, etc.
MTX 2300

For a class D amp with low distortion and higher efficiency, then these might be good at 4 ohms:
Memphis 1000d
Fosgate 1000bd (the older series)

At 2 ohms your options really open up in a class D at 500-600 watts - efficiency is down and distortion is up - some of the Hifonics amps are used at lot at 2 and 1 ohm loads. At 1 ohm, there are fewer choices that are really stable (I mean acutally long-term stable), but efficiency is down even more and distortion is up even more.

There are exceptions to the AB and D class amps - JL Audio slash amps are one example that are really neither, but both at the same time.

You can do you system in any way that you want - it is your car and your money. If this is your first time, you will likely end up redoing some of it, but that it the way that it goes. There is no reason that you cannot keep a Sundown sub and whatever amp that you buy when you do the rest of your car... you just might have to take it out to deaden the trunk or rewire or something.

AcUrAfIeNd32

@ eggy i am very patient i have been thru soo many kind of subs its crazy i just had a rockford t5002 and two type R's but....yeah so i got nothing but time. i never heard of that amp but then again i never heard of Sundown before TLNoob showed me so ill assume its a good amp but yeah for now while in alaska i think i wanna just do one good amp that can power one good sub that is all distorted and nasty sounding. as far as deading im not worried about i was gonna do that anyway. do you think that crescendo amp will be good enough?

@TLNoob what the hell is a processor....(im just asking dumb q's all day huh) and what does it do

oh also im not planning on moving the factory nav deck

@jda thanks thats really helpful trust me money isnt the problem im just saving until i get back to florida then ill worry about showing yall up haha for now its just a good sound system i need and a few small things