Well I just traded my sundown audio saz2000d for a saz1500d and a 12" Cascade Omega 12" D1. Lol don't know why the guy wanted to trade but I made out like a bandit. This sub looks sick especially with the carbon fiber cone. Now I am at the task of finding another omega 12" D1. I now have 2 saz1500d's. So I plan to run 2 1500's and 2 omega 12's gonna drop them down to 0.5 ohms each,or link the amps and run them at 1 ohm,not sure which i will do but either way I can get the amps warrantied if they fry.I plan on making this dayum car hit. For now I hooked up one of the 1500's to my 18 and I can't tell a diff. I may end up putting both 1500's in my 18 and set the gains and see how it sounds. This should def be a interesting build for sure. I plan on doing custom amp racks either in the floor or do side wall mounts. Pics to come when progress comes.

 

Good to see you made the trade. And fyi, the amps strapped at 1 ohm or at .5 ohms each are the same thing. The amps will be seeing .5 ohm no matter what. That's where I'm running mine, and it's a beast... Get to work finding the other sub...

 

whatd you say? yeah i cant hear you with all that beat. lol

 

Also the amp is in good shape thats just saw dust on it

 

That Omega 12' looks insane. Never heard it in person before.

 

Me either but it looks beefier than my nightshade. And is 2000 watts rms like 5k max that dang thing can take some powa should wang pretty hard.

 

Yeah guys, Omega's are beefy as hell... I had to hold the motor up while he mounted it from inside the box... The 2nd one wasn't anywhere near as easy, since the top of the box was already on and everything... They were for sure hell to mount... Have fun with 'em Brian...

 

Omegas are badass subs, nice to see you steppin up your game Brian

 

Can I haz Omega 10s?

 

Thanx guys yea i can't wait to start this build. But no sense until I find a matching sub. I dont want to build 2 boxes. I plan on doin sub and port back. Just trying to decide on a tuning freq any suggestions. Thought maybe 30 or might just got with 34 or so. Not sure what would be best for them. Looking like right around 3.8 cubes before sub disp. Prob gonna do 33" wide 16" tall and 20" deep. With the batts between the box and rear seat to hide them. And maybe do a false floor for the 50.4. And make some kind of custom amp racks angles on the sides where the jack is. I am gonna def double baffle the box as I'm sure it would need it, and all thread for bracing. I had thought about building the box and only doing the cut out for the 2nd sub on the inner baffle then insing my flush bit and trimming out the rest when the other gets here. But i dunno.

 

Yea that would be pretty sick if they made them in 10's. I found another for 300 just gotta unload my 18 and buy it.

 

Tune low. 30-32hz. Personally, I'd do sub/port forward. I found a new way to get a good seal that really doesn't use much foam. And it'll only cost you a trip to McDonalds... Plus with the box filling the area between the strut towers, there's almost no need for the brace behind the back seat. And my box doesn't move at all while I'm driving around (I know you have a kid, so this is a big thing for you). Just saying, that's what I'd do... Batts in spare tire well, amps on the sides.

 

The batts are just to big to fit in the tire area. But I guess if i di a new floor it would be fine. Hmmmm

 

Sounds like you've got the right idea... Plus with only a 16" tall box, you can slide it in from the back... I've fit 17" in there, but boy is that a tight squeeze...

 

Yea maybe i could build up the floor a inch or two and do something custom with the sides so you dont even notice it.

 

If you build up the floor, it'll help with the seal. Getting the seal on the bottom of the box is the hardest part. The top is easy (easier with this new method I figured out this past weekend) and the sides are easy enough with the standard length Great Stuff straw. Let me know if you decide to go with a forward firing setup. I'll be glad to help you out with ideas and such...

 

Well I traded a pair of boston acoustic g1 10's today and $20. The guy gave me 4 EHQS ed 8" subs s4, 1 EHQS eh 8" s2, 2 Dayton DA175-8 7" woofers, 2 Dayton RS100S-8 4" speakers, and 2 Vifa BC25SC06-04 1" tweeters with bass blockers. They are going to be my new mids and highs should sound pretty sick. And I think Imade out pretty good.

 

oops dbl pic

 

Well last night I installed the dayton 7" drivers in the door had to make a trim ring of mdf so it would fit as the mounting depth is pretty deep. ALso I got bored and put on of the 4" drivers in the rear left panel. I think it looks pretty good. I plan on doing some klind of speaker grill with mesh so it looks factory. I gotta say them being on that 50.4 makes them scream. Just gotta figure out a place for the tweets as they are to big to go in the stock location without cutting them up

 

We're in the same boat with the tweets. I can't decide what to do with mine either, but I realized tonight how much I really need them...

Oh, and make sure you put something around the baffle to seal it to the door panel. Modeling clay should do the trick just fine.

 

you two are crazy with car audio! lol

 

Well I am waiting on the balance to be paid on my 18 will be thursday or so. I am wondering if I would be satisfied with the 1 12. Or would I need to do 2. As man If I did one I could do rims again. We shall see.

 

i watched that youtube video you got...effin nuts! lol

 

Thanx man. Yea right now I only have my 50.4 powering my mids and highs I took the sub out. But im waitin to decide on the sub or subs and then building will proceed. I am going to make the box out of birch again. My trunk is leaking water pretty good. I dont see from where but i need to figure that out. Any suggestions.

 

To fix the leaking, try either 1. new weatherstripping, or 2. crank down the bolts on the latch a bit. I've seen both help/work so it's really up to you.

To get the most out of that 12, and keep your trunk from absolutely dying, I'd go forward firing. Again, just me, since I've done it a couple times and absolutely love the sound. Not to mention the lack of any kind of rattle or flex or anything in the trunk. If you wanted to do something sweet with the 1 12, you could try a bandpass.

 

You can try what I did with my tweeters. I pulled the speaker grill off the door panel and removed the factory grill cloth. I then cut a hole for the tweeter in the non-perforated part and mounted the tweeter on the back of the panel. I then added new grill cloth and re-attached the grills. The only indication that there are tweeters there is you can kind of see the two mounting screw heads through the grill cloth. Apparently it wasn't as flush as I thought. Here's a pic of the final results:

 

Also, what are you going to do about a crossover?

 

I am running them on my 50.4 no need for it. I plan on prob getting another 50.4 having 2

 

The 50.4 has no where near adequate processing built in to replace a proper crossover. If you really want to go active, then you really need a good processor and test equipment to tune it properly. Not to mention the know-how to work that equipment. I believe you are grossly underestimating the importance that a properly designed crossover adds to a speaker system, especially with a 3-way system. It's not something you can replace with a crossover built into an amplifier and expect the best most ideal results.

Here's a thread I wrote a few years ago discussing advanced speaker setups like yours: http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~61864~PN~1 I get into 3-way systems later in the thread.

 

I'll look into it but all i kno as it's hella loud and sounds killer to me. I have a old pyramid one but not sure if it is good or not.

 

Well I just ran another run of 1/0. I had a 13' fun of stinger layin around so it's now in. I also just ordered another anl fuse holder and2 extra fuses. Couldnt beat all that for $9 shipped. Found a wicked cheap co that sells em if anybody is interested

 

Ok I got tired of working on everyone elses boxes, so I finally started mine. I ended up doing 24.74" wide 15" deep and 16.5" high 2 inch port 2.2 cubes tuned to 33hz. Double baffled also. And I build a battery box to go right beside the sub box. I plan on Doing forward firing and putting the 50.4 and one of the 1500's recessed and flushed into the back side of the box(not attached though). Enjoy some pics

 

Well The dang 12 makes the car flex as much as the 18 did. But i dont like the sounds. I think the box is not right. So I am selling my set up. Just sold one of my 1500's and have a possible buyer on my 12. Thought about doing some 8's

 

Ok a little update. I got the sub and amp tuned right and man she hit's im pretty happy with it now. I also just got in my focal 6.5" component set so I decided to install it. I bought a focal 5.25" component set also thinking of putting them in the rear back seat panels.

 

Glad to see you're going with the black interior. Looks good dude, can't wait to see more of it.

Interesting placement of the tweets. Mine are pretty close to around there, but haven't been happy yet. That was using fixed mount tweets like yours look to be. I'm going to be trying some swivel mounts to see if I can't get better staging/imaging... I guess we'll see...

 

I actually am going to go with a mix of the gray and black gonna do a 2 tone theme looks good so far. Yea I'm 100% happy with the tweets for sure. Holy hell they scream and I think it looks clean where they r

 

Well today i took out the system i left the 50.4 and comps in. I am prob gonna trade off the omega. Not cuz i dont like it but it's just time for something diff. I have 5 sundown e8's think im gonna try running 3 of them. And turn my gains way way down on the 1500 and not run my batt. I may also be getting a re hc18 with custom recone(maybe depends on the trade). Might be something fun to play with seeing how it's 2500 rms. Time will tell

 

very interesting tweeter placement, interested to see what sub setup you go for next

 

Yea i just sold the omega actually. I have been offered a dd audio 9512 f series motor thinking of doing it. Also got offered a memphis mojo not to interested in it though

 

The F's are very highly sought after in the SPL game. The G is an overall better motor, but the F's are smaller (IIRC) which is what they need in a CRX.

If it's one of the older Mojo's with the orange basket, they're very nice subs. The one thing you want to be sure of though is the glue joint at the spiders. From what I heard, when they first started making them, the spiders were glued to the painted basket, which is no good. Sometime after that, they did fix it, I believe, but I'm not 100% on that one. Corey J on caco would be the one to ask, since he ran 6 of them in the 12" version in his SS 5+ van that was doing 165+ db...