sddale

I've been planning on upgrading the sound in my TL for a couple of months now. I'm going to have to do it a little at a time and I'm going to start with a 15" IB sub and 4 channel amp. I'm not sure what amp I'm going to go with but it will have to be small enough to mount under the seat. There are a few choices in different price ranges from JL, Massive, Alpine and Arc. I'll bridge 2 channels to send to the sub and just power up the front stock speakers. In the future I'll replace the fronts, deaden the doors, possibly get a dedicated sub amp and just bridge the 4 channel to power the fronts. I may end up with a 5 channel but I'm not sure yet. If you guys have any opinions on that I would love to hear them.

I've narrowed my sub choices to the Obsidian 15 d2 for $158, FI IB3 15 for $209, AE SBP15 for $249. Can anyone give me opinions about any of these subs? Obsidian seems to be the best deal and easiest to get. I've read good things about FI and their IB subs. AE seems to get a lot of great reviews but they're difficult to work with and take a while to get from what I've read. Would it be worth the price difference and wait for it? It's different than their IB15A sub but AE says it would be an upgrade and available a lot faster.

It seems that the IB set up doesn't need a lot of power and in the beginning I may only have 200 watts going to it. From what I've read that would be fine. It would make sense to get a most efficient woofer which would be the AE.

The budget on this first phase to $500-1000 (parts only) obviously being lower would be better. That way I can spend a little more when I replace the fronts.

What are you thoughts?

jda123

You are really going to limit yourself if you have to find an amp to fit under the seat. JL XD appears to cut signal like a lot of D class, Aplines are OK but only average in SQ. I have not used the massives. It won't fit under the seats, but I would get a Fosgate T600-4: 100W for front components (probably more like 140) and about 500W at 2 ohm for a sub and $350 on ebay new. The Fosgate is 2 ohm stable bridged which is very rare anymore. The fosgate power lineup has very good SQ and puts out a lot of power.

I have no experience with any of those, but if you want a sub before 2012, then I would stay away from AE... unless you can get one from somebody other than AE. Too much risk.

You will probably be breaking new ground with these - not a lot of people on this board, that I know of, have used too many IB subs.

I love my FI subs, but never have used their IB stuff. They seem to know their stuff.

sddale

I like the T600-4...I was going to put one of these in the trunk of my old car but ended up putting an old xtant amp instead. I wish I didn't sell that with the car. Unfortunately my wife doesn't want to take space up in the trunk. I still have to sell her on the 15...I was originally going to just replace the OEM one.

How does the bass sound when the center armrest is closed in these set ups?

jda123

It still sounds fine. More output, of course, with it open, but fine otherwise.

I have a Fosgate T1500.1bdcp (same size almost) on it's side mounted to the rear side and it takes up 1.5" and you cannot even tell that it is in there. I try and not pack crap up against it, but it stays quite cool for a high wattage amp.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I'd go with the FI IB3-15. Looks beefy and can take 500-600 rms. Plus no one on here has used them, and I haven't found too many decent reviews on them either. I've been thinking about getting a few of those 15 FI's.

I hate cars

I would do two 15s IB. They will take up very little of the trunk. AE supposedly has the SBP15 available for shipping right now..... I don't know if I would trust that though, I had to wait nearly 6 months for mine. They're well worth the wait but it can be frustrating when they say 3 weeks and it takes 6 months. You could always buy something cheap now to get you by until you get the AEs. The original IB15 should be available in September.

I can honestly say their subs are second to none in SQ and will rip your head off on rap. It sounds like you have an 8", 10", 12", and 15" all playing at the same time. They cover 20-100hz so nice and are super efficient. They get louder off of 300 watts than my old Tempest X would off of 1,000 watts. It's worth the wait because these things are very efficient, light, require practically no eq, and will play 10hz and up past 150hz.They blend very nicely with the front stage.


I found these for sale, $350 for two 15s: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...fers-used.html

Supposedly have identical specs to the old Image dynamics IDW infinite baffle subs. Only 11mm of usable excursion but you don't need much with two 15s. On most music you can't tell mine are moving. With these, I would definitely do two 15s.
The SBP15 is an upgrade but a very small upgrade. It likely would not be noticeable. Same cone, frame, and suspension, better and stronger motor. They weigh more too. One thing to keep in mind is the $140 IB15 will no longer be $140 when they start making it again. It will be more expensive because John was not charging enough in the first place and was hardly making money on them. This sub offers better flux modulation, lower inductance, less distortion, and it's more linear than subs costing 4x as much so the price is more than fair. It was said that the IB market was more into displacement per dollar so these SQ subs had to be sold at the same prices as the other junk out there. I was the other way. They were so cheap I was worried about the quality. As of now, John, the owner of the company is the only builder so it's safe to say quality should be second to none.

One thing to keep in mind, the less excursion it has, the better the SQ is going to be, that's the whole reason for going with tons of cone area.

Sound does not change much with the armrest up or down. You lose just a little SPL but it doesn't change the sound or SQ.

I just saw a pair of IB12s for sale but they sold quick.

Here's my setup during construction. Right now they're totally hidden. Notice how little trunk space they take up.

I hate cars

Also, if you can find the older Image Dynamics IDQ15v2 for sale, they sound very nice IB. I've heard a competition car that uses them. I assume the current v3 version would sound very well too but I haven't heard it.

The Fi pushes a lot of air but I've seen mixed reviews on it's IB use.

The JL 12 and 13W6 sound very nice IB too but if you're starting fresh, you might as well go for cone area and get a pair of 15s.

sddale

Thanks for the replies. I don't think I'll be able to do 2 15s...maybe in the future but for now I'm going to start with 1 15. I had 1 12 in a sealed box in the trunk and it was plenty for me. It did have 1200w going to it but the trunk wasn't vented to the cabin either. I was happy with the bass output with that so I'm hoping 1 15 IB with 200w will be ok. I can always change it later if I'm not happy with it.

I'll have to check out those other subs too.

I hate cars

IB will have just a little less output above 40hz and probably more or at least the same on the really low stuff. I would at least offset the one sub you use to one side so you can easily cut another hole for a second one if you're not happy with just one.

sddale

I thought about that and was wondering if having it offset would have any effect on the output or sound.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Naw..shouldn't at all. Nothing noticeable.

I'd try the SBP15 now that I read about it more. Sounds awesome and is even better than the IB15. I'm thinking about getting 2 SBP15's very shortly...

sddale

I'm leaning that way also but wanted to hear a more input from the Obsidian owner before writing them off. It seems like a decent sub at an inexpensive price. I'm also worried about actually getting the AE sub within a couple of months.

jda123

Having experiment with some IB (but no subs made for IB), this is really quite simple... people take a large displacement driver and keep it under control with low wattage and low movement. IB is like a big block that can make hella torque with low RPM becuase the displacement is so large. Seems like IB 1.0 for cars.

This could get more complex as companies create higher wattage IB drivers that keep their composure. These could be your 9000 RPM supercharged big blocks that go 1200+ hp and will smoke anything on the road. This could be IB 2.0 for cars.

In my experiments, the higher SQ quality sub produced the best SQ in IB - go figure.

I will say that IB is no cure-all or best-approach for anything. It is a fine solution with pros and cons just like any other solution. It is a cool way to save lots of your trunk. It looks cool too if you have a good looking sub ass-end to display. The driver is also located in a great place to maximize output into the cabin. It is pretty cool.

I am not convinced that the cheaper IB subs of today will stand the test of time. For now, it just seems to me like most IB subs on the market are large displacement and made to not bottom out (low power for some) - not sure if there is really any other thought that has gone into them yet. Heck, even cheap equipment sounds pretty good at low wattage and excursion, so I need to see some bad-ass performing IB subs that have enough power to excel with the trunk open or windows shut... put some power to those beyotches and lets see how dynamic they get. Until then, I think that some regular old subs could be almost as good.

I hate cars

You need to hear the IB15s then. Like I posted before, they don't take a lot power (500w) because they don't need a lot of power. 500w to the IB15 is louder than 1,000 to the Tempest X. I would rather have the more efficient sub that gets louder with half the power. Dynamics are incredible and they just play every type of music perfectly. Every sub and sub setup I've had in the past would play one type of music better than the others. With these there is no best music, they just do everything right.

Check out AE's website and DIYMA. You'll see how far they go to control flux modulation, inductance, inductance modulation, and distortion in general. Le is lower than my Dyn 7" mid bass; they can play well into the female vocal range if needed. Power compression is a non issue due to the efficiency and lack of power needed. The moving mass is lighter than most 12" subs giving excellent transients. The cone is on the large end of a 15" sub. A good friend of mine said it best when I was playing rock and country and he said it sounded like I had a pair of high end 10s.... until I played some rap.

The suspension is designed to bring the cone under control once you surpass xmax and the Bl and motor control start to fade. From The suspension is extremely loose, the motor controls the cone. If you push on one of these by hand you're going to think they're broken. Around 25mm one way excursion the suspension reels it in. Supposedly you can't bottom this sub, it runs out of motor first but I'm not going to find out.

ANY sub will be more linear and have less distortion at small excursions. That's IB 101. Use a large cone and have it move as little as possible. That's a great starting point but these subs remain very linear and distortion free throughout the travel. Even at 25mm, 6.5mm past xmax distortion is very low. I can't stress how goes into this sub to decrease distortion. It has less distortion than your typical underhung motors and without the accompanying efficiency loss of an underhung motor.

One thing I never realized subs do is slightly change the way they sound as the volumes SPL rises. The lack of this change of sound grabs your attention the first time you crank on them, it is very noticeable.

I hate cars

"There's not much backlog right now, so the SBP15 can be build almost normally, but still expect several weeks for delivery."

Quoted from "Simon" on their board.

They're a small improvement on the IB15, pretty much centered around linearity as far as I can tell. Same frame and cone and I think it's basically the Lambda motor upgrade with more more motor strength but I might be wrong.

If I were doing only one sub that would require more excursion for a given SPL, it would make more sense to use these. With two subs where you can't really see them move during normal listening I doubt you will ever hear a difference. I'm probably going to order a couple SBPI5s for myself since the IB15s won't be available for quite a while. Anyone want to go in for 4 of them to get the discount? I wish you guys were around when I got the 2 IB15s. I posted to see if anyone wanted to go in on 4 of them to drop the price down to $110 each but no one knew what they were back then.

jda123

1000w IB subs will be made just like the industry did not stop at 300W 15s back in the 80s. I still think that they have a long way to go. It makes no sense to me that are are underpowered enough to be effected (or is it affected) by the windows being up or down and having to compress that air. Don't forget that they have to move air too... and more displacement means more air to move - this takes power that some of these appear lack (not all of them).

Suspensions will wear out, so I hope that all of these have motors that can control the thing... or else life might be rather short.

I might order a FI IB 15 when I am done with my little experiment with the subs that I have. You all know that I don't care for much of what is online, so I need to try it for myself. With all of the sponsors, uncles and cousins, band-wagoners and people unfit to give opinions (myself included), I just cannot trust anything online anymore. I have found a few people who I feel "get it" and will pay attention to them.

I do think that IB will change a lot about car audio. I think that there will be more people putting the subs in that spot no matter how they mount them. The box blocking the passage is just too inefficient.

I would forget the specs and go with the company. Good companies usually find a way to make good products.

I hate cars

I'm not sure what you're looking to improve upon. The current IB15 offers lower distortion and better linearity and more efficiency than just about any other sub out there whether it's an IB sub or not.

If the sub can hit xmax at 20hz at 180 watts, how is sending it 1,000 watts going to make it louder? 19mm excursion on two 15s is pretty damn loud whether it takes 180 watts or 1,000 to hit the number. I did feed my Tempest X 1,000 watts for a short time and believe me, the IB15s are louder with less than half the power. All the extra power is doing is increasing distortion and power compression along with taxing the vehicle's charging system for no reason when you could hit the same SPL with a better sub and less power.

More power might be needed when talking about a sealed box and especially ported at tuning frequency. But what good will more power do when the subs already hit xmax or even xmech at a very low power level? There's just no reason for IB subs to "evolve" to 1,000 watt monster except to play to a market that doesn't know any better.

If I needed more SPL I would fit a 3rd IB15 instead of trying to get something with monster excursion with monster distortion that requires crazy power. Cone area is just so much better when possible.

IB is not for SPL competition anyway. However, they had no problem burying the front stage when it was run off of 220w per channel. It's way more bass than any normal person could withstand.

The suspension is basically centering the cone, sealing it up, and stopping over excursion. It's very "loose". The motor does all the work. Any sub will wear out just the same. Having a ton of cone area means the subs barely move in normal use. I would worry about a 10" sub that's working it's ass off even in a sealed box before I would worry about a pair of 15s IB that see 1-2mm of excursion daily.

They typically have smaller motors because you don't need motor strength without the air spring in a sealed application or the box tuning frequency of the ported application. With this smaller motor comes more efficiency, less power compression, less moving mass, and all of the benefits of such.

I hate cars

I guess what I'm trying to say is why build a 1,000 watt IB sub just to say you have a 1,000w IB sub when it would offer no extra performance over some of the existing "500w" IB subs. You would need significantly more excursion at the same efficiency to outdo the IB15s and with excursion comes more distortion. It would really come down to how much excursion it's capable of per watt. I love the efficiency and super light moving mass especially when it comes to transients.

There's no need for more power IB. The 12W6 that will take 600 watts thermally is limited to 220watts mechanically IB.

jda123

We can just agree to disagree. I still think that they are underpowered and the small motor is a byproduct of not having enough time to develop and manufacture a wholesale different kind of sub and that they have to keep the thing from bottoming out, so they restrict the power for now. I just cannot get past the fact that they have more output and more excursion when the windows are open - this just screams of being underpowered. If they cannot even compress that much air, they don't have enough power becuase you should get that kind of excursion and sound with the windows up, or not - be consistent. Can you imagine your tune getting out of whack by 1MM of excursion because of the barometric pressure outside? They NEED to be consistent to be great.

I am not saying that they are not cool, only that they will be better.

I just think that they are a great first step what could be a very promising line of drivers.

The numbers, graphs, etc. can all say whatever you want them to say. Did you say that your ID 6.5s had more excursion than the Dyns, but the dyns kill them? Don't trust them as far as you can throw them.

Anyway, sorry to derail this discussion. My bad OP. I am interested in some feedback of whatever you choose.

I hate cars

You're getting way off topic now and basically calling me a liar. I didn't call you a liar when you said you had 400 watts going to a 12W6 free air when we know they bottom at 220watts with the link to prove it.

The Dyns have a ton more midbass period. I had to add more layers of dynamat to both the doors and the plastic trim pieces to stop the vibrations when they were just fine with the IDs. You just got done saying you don't care about the numbers then you're basing the midbass argument on stated numbers. I don't remember which one has more excursion. Remember, I was expecting to lose mid bass with the Dyns. It was a total shock when I gained punch and mid bass.

I know it's not the cool thing to buy expensive speakers, people always look down on it because people that buy expensive things are uneducated and people that buy cheap stuff are smart. I got used to this very early on owning JL stuff even though the 12W6 has been shown to be one of the most linear subs ever made and mine worked flawlessly for 6 years. Now I have the $1,400 Dyns and people constantly tell me how I could have bought a $25 set and sounded better with the proper install.

You're talking down about a subwoofer that's better than all of the others mentioned in this thread in every measurable way, not to mention my own opinion that mirrors the measurements. You act as if I have brand loyalty to these and I'm biased. I researched the hell out of this stuff before deciding on these and I got them because according to people much smarter than me, they are the best SQ based IB sub money can buy and the measurements backed it up. It's especially insulting when so many of the "SQ" subs leave so much on the table to save a few bucks. No one addresses the inductance and inductance modulation like John at AE.

These IB subs have been around for a very long time, at least 10 years with a couple small tweaks over the years. They're fully developed and optimized for IB use. They have no other purpose in life, not sealed, not ported or bandpass, only IB use. They don't have to work against an air spring so they don't need as much motor. As I said, there are advantages to the smaller motor. All it needs to do is move the light cone and push a little air vs an air spring in a sealed box. As I stated before, the suspension and motor work together to keep it from bottoming which every IB sub NEEDS to have. The suspension is very "loose" but tightens up at the limits to restrict movement. Xmax is 18.5mm and it has well over 70% of it's motor strength at that point. In fact, motor strength stays more consistent to xmax and beyond than any other sub I've seen tested. At 25mm motor strength falls off like every sub does at some point and the suspension "catches" it. It can still bottom but you would have to purposely try to bottom it. It's a heck of a lot better than the 12W6 slapping the VC on the back plate which in it's defense was never intended for IB use.

Check out some of the underhung designs. Motor strength is good for large excursions but once you pass a certain point it drops like a rock. These subs are extremely consistent throughout the travel.

Barometric pressure is irrelevant since it's the same on both sides of the sub.

You're not understanding the whole power thing. They get louder than the other higher powered subs by being more efficient. How can you use more power when they can easily be pushed to xmax by less than 500 watts? How can another sub that takes 1,000 watts get louder unless it has more excursion? Show me another sub setup that can do 146db with 500 watts. Power is just part of the game, efficiency is just as important. Again, why would you want less efficient sub just to say you have a "1,000 watt" sub? If anyone wants to put their subs up against mine at the same power in the 20-40hz range I'm all for it.

Just about every system has more output when you roll the windows down, it's common and it's known.

I'm always on the lookout for someone with a better system. I WANT to find one that sounds better so I can improve my own but somehow I'm made out to be some uneducated guy on the internet who thinks his stuff is always best. I had high hopes for the Tempest X but unfortunately it did not sound good and I posted exactly what I thought about it. The strong motor/heavy moving mass sounded like garbage IB and sucked up power without delivering the SPL I was looking for. I do think the AE subs are the best IB subs money can buy and I stand by that. I thought that long before I placed my order for them.

Last, besides all of the cars I've demoed especially lately, I've tried the 12W6, Tempest X, and the AEs in IB form not to mention the 12W6 in every form. I've got a friend with one of the higher end Focal subs that I've heard a lot. I've heard Neel's competition TL with the two IDQ15s IB. I've heard ChicoOG's old competition system with the two DIYMA 12s. I knew the sound I wanted and I've achieved it. No disrespect to any of these guys but I think my sub stage sounds better.

I'm not mad but before you make these claims about these subs you should buy a couple and see for yourself what the hype is about. I mean seriously, saying they're not fully developed??? These subs are used in recording studios in very large boxes for critical listening. They MUST be natural with amazing detail at that level. Some of these subs are used as part of a couple $100,000 home systems. This is all on AE's website with links and pictures.

jda123

I was out on this thread, but I wanted to let you know that I wasn't calling you a liar. I totally believe that the dyns have more midbass than the ID, and have witnessed it... even though some of the "numbers" might point the other way. My point was supposed to be that numbers can be misleading, and so are some of the manufacturers that provide them. Sorry if I said that bad.

I am glad that you are happy with IB. It is pretty cool. I just think that it is going to get even better. If I can find some AEs, but not from them directly, I will buy them and try them out - they are certainly cheap enough to try out for a while.

I hate cars

I agree that numbers can be misleading. That's one of the conflicts I have over on DIYMA with people. Many think you can tell exactly how a system will sound by the numbers while I think they are a general guideline but nothing will take the place of trying the product in your car. I'll remove and send you one of my IB15s for testing if you like, I'm that confident you will like them.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

To break this up...even though you're both right and saying different things....I'll buy 2 SBP15's to get it up to 4. Hell, if we can get more people maybe he'll give us an even bigger discount!

csmeance

Do you think they would be around the same price (like in the 140's or so) now or a bit higher like in the 200-300 range?

sddale

How much effect will the SPL difference between the subs have? Do you guys believe it is sort of misleading? Or will a sub like the FI which is about 3db less than the SBP need twice the power to reach the same sound level?

IHC: Since you have experience with the AE subs how do you think the IB15's would compare to the SBP15's? According to AE the SBP15 is a "significant" upgrade.

IHC/Trunk Monkey: I might be in for 1 SBP15 or IB15. I'm really worried about the wait though. It seems like there are quite a few people still waiting for just replies to orders.

I hate cars

No need to break it up lol. Jda123 knows more about this stuff than I do, just maybe not about the IB15 specifically.

I'll see if there's an additional discount for more than 4. Keep in mind some of the home audio guys order 8-16 of them. No idea how much of a price break you get for the SBP15s but he did mention the price break for 4 or more. For the IB15 it took it from $140 to $100. The only thing I don't like is the weight goes from 17lbs to around 25lbs. Not a big deal, I'm just being picky. When I took the 12s out and installed the 15s, the rear of the car rose up 1/2" which was pretty noticeable. I have right at 50lbs worth of subs and baffle. Not bad for a pair of 15s.

I hate cars

I think it's far from a significant upgrade but obviouisly the owner/engineer knows more than I do.

SPL and frequency response is the same between the two; they should sound the same. The only difference I see is distortion which is excellent in the IB15 and apparently even better in the SBP15. Supposedly the SBP15 will play midrange a little better if you run it that high. I've run mine with no crossover just for fun and it plays well into the female vocal range.

The low end should be the same, both have the same xmax and both will hit xmax at low frequencies with little power. I think John said the SBP15 can play the upper frequencies a little louder. That's got to sound awesome. I run mine up to 80hz because the punch is so nice it really takes the load off of the midbass and it still blends well. There's just no way a 6.5" can have the same punch as a 15" if you can find a 15 that plays that high nicely. I ran it at 150hz for a while just for fun. It actually sounds ok like that but you feel it too much in the back of the seat and it localizes the sub. Plus if you want to crank the subs on those bass heavy days it doesn't sound too good with 150hz cranked.

I would post a question over on the AE forums, John is very good at explaining this stuff, much better than myself.

You're right, the FI will need double the power to hit the same SPL and in the upper bass, 50-80hz that gap grows even more. Now if you're going for SPL and have a ton of power on tap, depending on the version, some of the FI subs have a ton of excursion and would get louder in the end, it would just take 1,500+ watts to do it.

Honestly, if SPL was the only goal I would look into the Fi 18s. IB setups are known for digging deep and a pair of 18s would probably take your breath away on the lows.

Here's a discussion of the AEIB15 vs Fi15 with the HT crowd. This particular Fi sub is more efficient than the AE. It explains the suspension and how travel is limited in the two subs and why one way of doing it (running out of motor and suspension at the same time vs running out of suspension and tearing it apart wit the motor) is better. It also talks about the AE's larger cone almost making up for the difference in xmax while having lower distortion and the fact that Fi has a higher xmax while the AE has a higher xsus or total excursion. http://ibsubwoofers.proboards.com/in...lay&thread=413

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I've seen the SBP15, quoted from the mods (which I think is John, the owner), from AE's forums...they should be around $280/sub. This is due to a few things. The price of materials he's using going up, and he just flat out wasn't making nearly any money on the IB15's. He straight up stated that his parts cost is more than an IDMAX and that his sell for 1/3 the price and are superior in linearity, etc...which is likely true. Sucks...but still the same price as the FI IB3 and others, and still a helluva lot cheaper than most other subs that require a box.


That'd be cool to pick up a pair of SBP's and figure out which one you like and sell the other. Either way, I'm sure the AE subs will fly out of your hands within the day you put them up FS.

How did you mount your baffle again? I like the way the guy with the Obsidian did it, looks very clean. I'm thinking about doing it that way and finding another spot to secure a screw for 2 mounting places. Also would like to double baffle it..or just do 1" MDF, but probably double baffle 3/4" lol. My mind is all over the place with trying to figure out my amp situation, dialing in and listening to these RK6's, trying to figure out if I want to sell the w6's and go IB, etc. I think I'll just buy the IB subs and keep the w6's until they show up...just in case. I'm sure I could sell the w6's pretty quickly. How fast did you sell yours?

I hate cars

I was planning on keeping 4 of them (2 IB15s and 2 SBP15s) just to have a couple extra laying around but we can still buy 4 of them to save money, 2 for me and 2 for you.
I cut it roughly to shape and used both "L" brackets from Home Depot to secure the bottom and sides to the car along with part of the top with self tappers where it was impossible to use a bolt and nut. At the very top I also have a couple 5/16" bolts that go through the sheet metal with a nut, fender washer, and lock washer on the back.

I recommend 1.5" total thickness as the minimum. If I crank on it, I can barely feel a little vibration in the baffle. Ideally you want none. I may add more bracing.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

If we can get assurance that we'll have them in 2-4 weeks then I'll do it. I don't want to get caught in this 5 month BS that you had to go through. I'm very impatient lol.

Maybe I'll triple up the 3/4" baffle or just do 2 1" baffles. Either way..that sucker isn't moving

niebur3

My vote is a pair of Dynaudio Esotar2 1200's in IB. I have 1 and it sounds amazing.

It is mounted to a triple thick baffle and bolted to the cross braces in 8 places. It will NOT move and can't be removed without taking out the backseat.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I'm assuming those are pretty expensive though? The specs look nice for sure

How does the output and SQ compare to other setups you've had?

niebur3

Very expensive by car audio standards ($1,600 retail/each), but the best sounding, most transparent sub I have ever heard. It has good output and sounds absolutely right! In an IB setup, they extend sooooo low. It was love as first listen...lol!

I hate cars

I've heard nothing but good things about those. That guy with the Infinity gave a great review and I think his shop is not too far away. I keep meaning to take a listen. However, I can't afford $3,000 worth of subs lol.

I know they sound good but could you describe the sound? I've heard they play everything very accurately and blend super well to the point you're not always sure they're playing.

I hate cars

Nevermind, you beat me to it...

jda123

If you all order some of those new AE IBs, then I will probably go in if you have room on the order to try out. I just ordered a FI 15 ($229.03 shipped). Looks like max of 30 days. What is one more sub (or two) in the garage?

I hate cars

Sounds good. I can also have mine sent to you for testing straight from AE, I'm in no hurry for another sub, I don't even have a place to put them.

kingba45

Man I wish I had $500 right now to put towards 2 of these(AE IB15's)