So this is an alternative to the LOC? Or I need both this and the LOC? Could you PLEASE list the parts I will need to get and in what order they connect starting with the HU ending with the sub? (example...HU conects to.....which conects to.....ect) PLEASE? Then I think I will finally understand and will leave you alone abirvalg.

 

The stock amp has a high noise floor. When you amplify this signal you get a hiss that will never go away especially at low volumes. Going pre amp will give a near flat response and more importantly a full range signal. My system is nearly flat down to 20hz and I'm using only the front left and right pre amp signals. No need to run rears or a sub signal to get the full range.

The only time you would want to run a post amp signal is if you're doing only a sub where the hiss will be low passed out.

I run a line driver after the head unit and before the processor. There's nothing wrong with a line driver and it can reduce system noise picked up on the way to the trunk. With my particular processor and amps I don't need one but I'm running a fair amount of power and I don't want to be amplifying noise.

 

i realized too late that i forgot to tell him that
but then he was asking about a sub after all

 

@ I hate cars that might as well have been in a different language. That's why I was asking for a quick lay out of the parts and the order they go from HU to sub? All I'm putting in is a after market amp & sub Im NOT changing any other speakers.

 

for a sub all you need wiring wise is:
LOC taking the stock sub signal at the rear deck + remote wire from from stock amp 20p connector + power for the sub amp from the battery + ground

that would make you ready to plug a powered box, or an amp and a sub

if you get into upgrading other speakers it can get much more complicated and there is no single scenario

you should educate yourself a bit more before you start designing the entire system

 

i think crutchfield may have videos on this
if not search on youtube
an image is worth a thousand words

the basic concept is the same for any car

 

Last question... The remote wire is currently going from the stock amp to the stock sub now? Please elaborate on what I do with the remote wire you mentioned and what a 20p connector is?

 

And would you recommend a capacitor?

 

And I'm prob going to go with a kicker solo baric L7 for a sub but should I get a 2 or 4 ohm?

 

tap into remote, don't cut, the stock amp still needs it
no cap
i'd go with a 4, less heat

i think, you should let a shop do it

 

What is a 20p connector you were tlaking out?

 

20p is the input connector on the stock amp
you may need system schematics if you're serious about doing this yourself

you can find a download of a scanned copy of the full service manual for around $10
FYI it's going to be a pirated version