QUESTIONS/Chat REGARDING 3G TL AUDIO/DESIGNS/INSTALLS
#681
The crossovers are supposed to be designed for the car, one size does not fit all. Passives will be a compromise. This is the big reason for going active, you can tune it to your specific car which is very important. A car can sound good with passives but unless the passives are designed for your particular car, you're missing out.
JayVee, for what it's worth, it took me many months after going active to get it to sound as good as it did on the passives, just the break even point. I could probably do it a little quicker now but it might not be a bad idea to fire it up on the passives and go active down the road.
JayVee, for what it's worth, it took me many months after going active to get it to sound as good as it did on the passives, just the break even point. I could probably do it a little quicker now but it might not be a bad idea to fire it up on the passives and go active down the road.
#682
Team Owner
I do not think it is me who is missing out. I am experiencing life in a way you could not dream about. I also understand what the passive crossovers do and the benefits of an active setup. Stop taking me for a bafoon before you have begun to understand anything worthwhile.
You're all over this forum posting in speaker upgrade threads, infinite baffle threads, giving out advice with zero experience. You're dead wrong on this imaginary factory processing, the value of a good set of speakers, more midbass displacement, the value of more power, etc. Bafoon is a good title for you.
Last edited by I hate cars; 07-31-2012 at 02:11 PM.
#683
Calm down fellas... no pissing matches or dick sword fighting here. Everyone's input, opinion and experience is priceless. Even if not followed by me or the next man, someone down the road can take something from this threads at any given time and that info save his audio life or was priceless to that individual. That is what its all about.
#684
Would the equipment that I have make any difference whether active or passive sounds better? Maybe that is Jerry's reason to recommend active or maybe its just his elite experience and the knack of listening to tune the sounds right or like what was said above it being extremely hard. Idk i am weighing out the differences and would like to hear from ppls experience and not what is faster to throw together so much.
#685
Team Owner
Would the equipment that I have make any difference whether active or passive sounds better? Maybe that is Jerry's reason to recommend active or maybe its just his elite experience and the knack of listening to tune the sounds right or like what was said above it being extremely hard. Idk i am weighing out the differences and would like to hear from ppls experience and not what is faster to throw together so much.
Sometimes it's best to get used to it on the passives first because they will get you in the ballpark and once you're comfortable with the system, go active. There's also the issue that if you set a crossover wrong, put a lowpass where it's supposed to be a highpass, you'll easily kill a tweeter.
If you have the time and don't mind tinkering with it, active isn't a bad idea. If you want to install it and forget about it, passive is the way to go.
#686
After looking at the crossover section.....RUN PASSIVE!!!!
You can crossover the tweeters HP and woofers LP, but you are unable to bandpass the woofers and set a HP filter for the woofers, which is necessary. You would have to set a HP for the woofers and let them roll off naturally which would cause the midrange to mud up.
When I talked to your friend, I told him that the amp would have to be able to bandpass the woofers (talking door speakers). I was in the car and couldn't look it up.
Go passive and be done.
You can crossover the tweeters HP and woofers LP, but you are unable to bandpass the woofers and set a HP filter for the woofers, which is necessary. You would have to set a HP for the woofers and let them roll off naturally which would cause the midrange to mud up.
When I talked to your friend, I told him that the amp would have to be able to bandpass the woofers (talking door speakers). I was in the car and couldn't look it up.
Go passive and be done.
#687
Coolest A-zine Member
iTrader: (1)
My ..........run passives for a little bit and enjoy it. Nothing would be worse than blowing a tweeter due to the wrong setting or the amp giving out DC on the first power up. Enjoy it for a period of time, then play around if you desire more.
Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 07-31-2012 at 03:54 PM.
#688
Racer
After looking at the crossover section.....RUN PASSIVE!!!!
You can crossover the tweeters HP and woofers LP, but you are unable to bandpass the woofers and set a HP filter for the woofers, which is necessary. You would have to set a HP for the woofers and let them roll off naturally which would cause the midrange to mud up.
When I talked to your friend, I told him that the amp would have to be able to bandpass the woofers (talking door speakers). I was in the car and couldn't look it up.
Go passive and be done.
You can crossover the tweeters HP and woofers LP, but you are unable to bandpass the woofers and set a HP filter for the woofers, which is necessary. You would have to set a HP for the woofers and let them roll off naturally which would cause the midrange to mud up.
When I talked to your friend, I told him that the amp would have to be able to bandpass the woofers (talking door speakers). I was in the car and couldn't look it up.
Go passive and be done.
#689
And I would still maintain my adjustments on the stock head unit (Bass, treble, front, rear...etc.)?
THANKS
#692
Team Owner
You have to know where to cut this thing off. Going active opens the door to another level of audio addiction. I miss the passive days where I was not able to change anything.
#694
Suzuka Master
With all the Chineses and lettered abbreviations just said...I understood it was unanimous to go PASSIVE and that came with 3 of most knowledgable dudes that have been helping and following this thread from the begining ...and one new guy...lol
And I would still maintain my adjustments on the stock head unit (Bass, treble, front, rear...etc.)?
THANKS
And I would still maintain my adjustments on the stock head unit (Bass, treble, front, rear...etc.)?
THANKS
#697
Team Owner
On another note, I can't wait to hear your impressions of this system. You've got some really nice gear and a great install. I think you hit it perfectly, right at the point of diminishing returns. The stuff you have is a great bang for the buck and to get better stuff you would have to pay several times more for a small increase.
Good luck again.
#698
I started out the same way. Actually I started out much smaller with a pair of subs in way too small of a box and the stock speakers on the stock amp for a year, then Infinity speakers on the stock amp. The disease spread. Less than 2 years ago I did not know what a crossover slope was and when I would see the Dyn 6.5" speakers listed for $1,000 on various sites I would just shake my head and wonder what has to be wrong with a person to spend that kind of money on audio. In 1.5 years I've become "that" person. Don't become "that" person. lol
On another note, I can't wait to hear your impressions of this system. You've got some really nice gear and a great install. I think you hit it perfectly, right at the point of diminishing returns. The stuff you have is a great bang for the buck and to get better stuff you would have to pay several times more for a small increase.
Good luck again.
On another note, I can't wait to hear your impressions of this system. You've got some really nice gear and a great install. I think you hit it perfectly, right at the point of diminishing returns. The stuff you have is a great bang for the buck and to get better stuff you would have to pay several times more for a small increase.
Good luck again.
#699
Ok...against popular demand or the demand of ROCKSTAR143...lol I have no pic progress for update and project will be on pause for approx 1 week or so. Instead of having my friend Gabe do the remaining of the wiring, who seems a lil reluctant or don't really want to do it in the first place. I decided to take it to a professional, who happens to run a Car Audio shop. We talked a lil about what's left and what to install in addition. What is left is soldering a RCA to the radio for a line out, AUDIO CONTROL Matrix under the passenger seat and both Rainbow crossovers mounted ...somewhere or under each seat for each side of Hi's/Mids with all RCA's and wires ran to the trunk of the car so I may go ahead and seal the IB ~ cabin from the trunk. In addition to install along with the wires, He will be installing my AUDIOVOX 7in DVD Monitors Universal kits, all from a outstanding deal $$$ !!!
So, now what's left is scheduling the time to be without the car for 1 day. I will have to schedule something with the wife to drop off the car before they close and p/u the next day after work or later afternoon. I do promise all will be done soon and progress will continue.
So, now what's left is scheduling the time to be without the car for 1 day. I will have to schedule something with the wife to drop off the car before they close and p/u the next day after work or later afternoon. I do promise all will be done soon and progress will continue.
#700
I will be doing some more work this weekend since the remaining of the work seems ro be all up front. After laying down and mocking the RCA wire that is needs to be ran to the rear, I will then permanently install the panel, seal it, deaden it and anymore final adjustments needed to finalize on the panel and the interior back in the vehicle.
#705
Nice of you to join Eggy... During my short interest and build during project I have trolled through some of the forum and read some of your comments. Although some are argumentative and some are informative nevertheless good reads anyways... don't bash me eggy- I am a noob and repeated how i don't know shit from shit...lol
I have heard of BALLISTIC and found its pretty decent stuff. Although I have used the better stuff in the areas most important, as seen in the build so far. And i do have more dynamat for the front of the panel. I am sure this will be perfect for the remaining use in the trunk floor.
I have heard of BALLISTIC and found its pretty decent stuff. Although I have used the better stuff in the areas most important, as seen in the build so far. And i do have more dynamat for the front of the panel. I am sure this will be perfect for the remaining use in the trunk floor.
#708
Ok fellas, again... Sorry for the neglect to the faithful and the lurking in the dark who never post
As of late, I been having issues or a break in communication with my wire installer so I am stuck until something shows itself as a solution. Another reason for delay and neglect of posting here at all is I been stricken with a bacterial stomach virus as of late... I would not wish this on my enemy. Today is my first day of full relief and able to eat and function again.
Going back to what I asked a few post ago, I purchased some locally available deadening at a car audio warehouse called BALLISTIC. I have heard or seen post/comments of the stuff through GOOGLE when I was searching for deadening options. Stuff seems to be just as good so far while applying as DYNAMAT. Sticks very very well and seems to apply even easier. Anyways, I decided to install some in the trunk while on my down time with completing the wiring. No need for time wasted when there is still work to be completed. As you can see, I am NOT looking for perfection or 100% coverage, just spot layering around the OEM stuff.
So here it is gents:
As of late, I been having issues or a break in communication with my wire installer so I am stuck until something shows itself as a solution. Another reason for delay and neglect of posting here at all is I been stricken with a bacterial stomach virus as of late... I would not wish this on my enemy. Today is my first day of full relief and able to eat and function again.
Going back to what I asked a few post ago, I purchased some locally available deadening at a car audio warehouse called BALLISTIC. I have heard or seen post/comments of the stuff through GOOGLE when I was searching for deadening options. Stuff seems to be just as good so far while applying as DYNAMAT. Sticks very very well and seems to apply even easier. Anyways, I decided to install some in the trunk while on my down time with completing the wiring. No need for time wasted when there is still work to be completed. As you can see, I am NOT looking for perfection or 100% coverage, just spot layering around the OEM stuff.
So here it is gents:
Last edited by JayVee; 08-08-2012 at 06:56 PM.
#711
No problem eggy. Stuff seems just as thick and application is just as firm or more sticky then the DYNAMAT. I know that does not say much to the performance end so far. But the BALLISTIC stuff does not seem cheap or inferior to the better quality DYNAMAT so far I have applied. As I said before, I am sure it will be perfect for the area I applied it today. That was my only use for it to tighten up the trunk floor and over all trunk sound.
#713
NEGATIVE... Wah Wah Waaaaaaaaaaaaaah
IXOS GT FLEX ULTRA GRADE 4awg power cable My RCA's are also IXOS RCA600's (2x)
http://www.ixoswire.com/products/int.../rca600-series
IXOS GT FLEX ULTRA GRADE 4awg power cable My RCA's are also IXOS RCA600's (2x)
http://www.ixoswire.com/products/int.../rca600-series
Last edited by JayVee; 08-08-2012 at 08:37 PM.
#717
Suzuka Master
I do not think so! And you would certainly feel them when you sat down for sure.
#719
Team Owner
If you're not putting anything else under the front seats, that would be a good dead space for them.
#720
Passenger front seat will house the AC Matrix.