QUESTIONS/Chat REGARDING 3G TL AUDIO/DESIGNS/INSTALLS
Don't do it buddy... don't go into fhe light...
08-24-2012, 10:42 AM
#882
Ok recap:
Those small blocks of MDF were placed yesterday to space the lining away from the seal/boot edges of the sub.
Here is is in raw MDF as a temp fit/fix. (same is on bother sides)
Here they are complete wrapped in carpet to blend in to the panel.
...Idk what is wrong with PHOTOBUCKET but I had more pics in detail and final out come of both MDF blocks wrapped in carpet before install. PB won't allow me to download any of the remaining pics
Those small blocks of MDF were placed yesterday to space the lining away from the seal/boot edges of the sub.
Here is is in raw MDF as a temp fit/fix. (same is on bother sides)
Here they are complete wrapped in carpet to blend in to the panel.
...Idk what is wrong with PHOTOBUCKET but I had more pics in detail and final out come of both MDF blocks wrapped in carpet before install. PB won't allow me to download any of the remaining pics
08-26-2012, 08:20 PM
#885
I really need to move on to something else because I am getting very frustrated with the audio set up and its issues at this point. Immediate issue within a single song my Hi/Mids go into safe mode and go muzzled, before that, they sound GREAT! then shortly after that, the light indicators glow in the xovers and go safe mode. To tune em according to the light bulb is ridiculous and have no sound keeping the light to a minimum glow. Assuming they are getting too much amp power is the reason, I am not pleased with the RAINBOWS at this moment since I only have the gain turned up 1/8 and everything set to have the max listening volume at 33 out of 40 stock HU. I find that to be a lil sensitive for some supposedly impressive mid grade set. Then last, I still have the thermal shut down from the amp...
I will keep farting with it till I find a sweet spot for the amp GAIN, Amp EQ & Matrix volts. Just nothing seems to be playing nice with each other and only sounds good at lower volume levels. This is not what a audio system suppose to do... U r suppose to be able to listen to it loud. Like I said, I will see a lil further into it.
I will keep farting with it till I find a sweet spot for the amp GAIN, Amp EQ & Matrix volts. Just nothing seems to be playing nice with each other and only sounds good at lower volume levels. This is not what a audio system suppose to do... U r suppose to be able to listen to it loud. Like I said, I will see a lil further into it.
08-27-2012, 08:07 AM
#886
This will help to explain the light bulb issue. I think overall you are pushing the system too hard. You can still go active and bypass, but will need to raise the crossover point to protect the tweeter more....and you will have no safety net, unless you buy a pair of bass blocker (capacitors - about $10) as your safety net.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...crossover.html
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...crossover.html
The following users liked this post:
JayVee (08-27-2012)
08-27-2012, 08:27 AM
#887
This will help to explain the light bulb issue. I think overall you are pushing the system too hard. You can still go active and bypass, but will need to raise the crossover point to protect the tweeter more....and you will have no safety net, unless you buy a pair of bass blocker (capacitors - about $10) as your safety net.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...crossover.html
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...crossover.html
08-31-2012, 03:54 AM
#889
Seems I may have found a sweet spot with everything plays nice with one another... But I was expecting (I guess) the Hi's and Mid's to be a lil more crisp and louder. Is there any easy addition or technique I can do or add to acheive more... I guess Clarity from my set? I guess this is why ppl do add deck speakers to make a slight difference. For example, I will play the music as loud as it goes with sounding as crisp as possible before any distortion starts to occur or break in sound. I get out of the car and step away approx 15 yards give or take. I hear some kind of noise being made from the hi/mids but you really can't make out anything. U def hear the bass...Kinda sorta, but that is for a entirely different reason there. The bass is like someone commented on one time, I can't remember if it was TM or IHC. But u feel the bass and it hits inside the car. Roll up the windows and the bass is so well confined within the vehicle its insane. The same goes for opening the windows, u hear it muzzled or faint but it is still so confined within the car. I assume that is a good thing from the deadening and what not. Anyways, yeah...Hi/Mids crisp & louder help pls 
Thanks as always!
...One more thing, I am finding it very hard to have the Hi/Mids to play at a higher level and equal to the sub as one without having the bulb light up or glow (xover). I am finding this nearly impossible since the start to light and such a low level of volume. Any tips?
Thanks as always!
...One more thing, I am finding it very hard to have the Hi/Mids to play at a higher level and equal to the sub as one without having the bulb light up or glow (xover). I am finding this nearly impossible since the start to light and such a low level of volume. Any tips?
Last edited by JayVee; 08-31-2012 at 04:05 AM.
08-31-2012, 07:53 AM
#890
moments. The whole point of all the deadening you did was to keep the sound inside the car for you, the driver, to listen to. I don't have any idea how to project more sound out of your car, nor would I see a reason why.I would try to wire it active and see how you like it that way. The x-over does eat up some power, so things would be a little more efficient. You just need to be very conscientious of the tweeters, as they are easy to blow with the wrong setting. I would probably wire in a couple of capacitors (bass blockers) to protect the tweeters to be safe (VERY easy to do)!
08-31-2012, 08:02 AM
#891
This is one of those moments. The whole point of all the deadening you did was to keep the sound inside the car for you, the driver, to listen to. I don't have any idea how to project more sound out of your car, nor would I see a reason why.
Sorry jerry to get you to shake your head...
I guess I didn't think of it the other way around as I did notice the sound within the vehicle as I did the bass/sub. lol! I guess it would wk the same. But yes, I was speaking a lil more re: inside the vehicle. Which, I believe your next answer below is directing me in a trial solution.
I would try to wire it active and see how you like it that way. The x-over does eat up some power, so things would be a little more efficient. You just need to be very conscientious of the tweeters, as they are easy to blow with the wrong setting. I would probably wire in a couple of capacitors (bass blockers) to protect the tweeters to be safe (VERY easy to do)!
moments. The whole point of all the deadening you did was to keep the sound inside the car for you, the driver, to listen to. I don't have any idea how to project more sound out of your car, nor would I see a reason why.Sorry jerry to get you to shake your head...
I guess I didn't think of it the other way around as I did notice the sound within the vehicle as I did the bass/sub. lol! I guess it would wk the same. But yes, I was speaking a lil more re: inside the vehicle. Which, I believe your next answer below is directing me in a trial solution.
I would try to wire it active and see how you like it that way. The x-over does eat up some power, so things would be a little more efficient. You just need to be very conscientious of the tweeters, as they are easy to blow with the wrong setting. I would probably wire in a couple of capacitors (bass blockers) to protect the tweeters to be safe (VERY easy to do)!
08-31-2012, 05:59 PM
#892
Team Owner
I've gone to great lengths to try and keep the sound inside the car. That way if I've got Madonna at volume 30 no one is laughing at me.
But seriously, my system doesn't sound real loud outside of the car and it sounds weird. I don't know if it's because it's a 3-way or because it's time aligned to the driver's seat.
If the doors are open, you can hear the 10s over everything else and it just sounds weird playing 70-750hz. In fact, it sounds a lot like a stock system with no lows and no highs.
My bass doesn't carry outside of the car much. It's like there's an invisible wall even when the windows are down. You can turn it up and stand next to the car and you don't hear much. Stick your head inside of the window and it's very loud.
If you want bass to carry with an IB install, open the trunk. I got talked to at work because I turned it up briefly with the trunk halfway open and found the resonant frequency of the parking lot cover structure is around 30hz. It pretty much lit up the whole cover which was heard inside the office. You can imagine how much a bunch of engineers liked that.
I have no idea how to get the mids and highs out of the car.
But seriously, my system doesn't sound real loud outside of the car and it sounds weird. I don't know if it's because it's a 3-way or because it's time aligned to the driver's seat.
If the doors are open, you can hear the 10s over everything else and it just sounds weird playing 70-750hz. In fact, it sounds a lot like a stock system with no lows and no highs.
My bass doesn't carry outside of the car much. It's like there's an invisible wall even when the windows are down. You can turn it up and stand next to the car and you don't hear much. Stick your head inside of the window and it's very loud.
If you want bass to carry with an IB install, open the trunk. I got talked to at work because I turned it up briefly with the trunk halfway open and found the resonant frequency of the parking lot cover structure is around 30hz. It pretty much lit up the whole cover which was heard inside the office. You can imagine how much a bunch of engineers liked that.
I have no idea how to get the mids and highs out of the car.
The following users liked this post:
JayVee (08-31-2012)
08-31-2012, 07:00 PM
#893
Thanks Brotha...maybe its is sounding the way its suppose to 
I actually drove more then normal today making a few stops and enjoyed the long way home. I flipped from one station to another and for every station I actually had to adj to some type of acceptable sound for every station. So that could be my problem also. Me expecting one adj fits all, when in fact, that is so far from the truth as I am personally learning myself. But today, I have learned when and where to adj depending on the type of music and the output freq. of the playing source...If that at all makes sense.
BTW, U r so right about the bass carrying and be way DEEEEEEEP! from the trunk side with the trunk open outside the car. When ever I was tuning and adj the amp settings the volume was no higher then 20 and OMG, from the trunk I thought something all of a sudden went haywire and went full gain or volume because the bass was so deep and my house window where I was parked started rattling...LOL! Wifey came out and said, "BABY! the baby is trying to sleep, low that down." I had to tell her it had nothing to do with the volume, it was because I open the trunk and the bass was louder and deeper then it actually is in the car." ...lol ~ Just wanted to share a similar experience.
I actually drove more then normal today making a few stops and enjoyed the long way home. I flipped from one station to another and for every station I actually had to adj to some type of acceptable sound for every station. So that could be my problem also. Me expecting one adj fits all, when in fact, that is so far from the truth as I am personally learning myself. But today, I have learned when and where to adj depending on the type of music and the output freq. of the playing source...If that at all makes sense.BTW, U r so right about the bass carrying and be way DEEEEEEEP! from the trunk side with the trunk open outside the car. When ever I was tuning and adj the amp settings the volume was no higher then 20 and OMG, from the trunk I thought something all of a sudden went haywire and went full gain or volume because the bass was so deep and my house window where I was parked started rattling...LOL! Wifey came out and said, "BABY! the baby is trying to sleep, low that down." I had to tell her it had nothing to do with the volume, it was because I open the trunk and the bass was louder and deeper then it actually is in the car." ...lol ~ Just wanted to share a similar experience.
Last edited by JayVee; 08-31-2012 at 07:03 PM.
09-01-2012, 08:56 AM
#894
Wifey came out and said, "BABY! the baby is trying to sleep, low that down." I had to tell her it had nothing to do with the volume, it was because I open the trunk and the bass was louder and deeper then it actually is in the car." ...lol ~ Just wanted to share a similar experience.
in this thread recently. Are you telling me you have a new baby who was sleeping, and you were outside playing with your system instead of inside "playing" with your wife? 
Come on man! lol
09-01-2012, 11:34 AM
#896
This is true...But how do u know I didn't already play with the wife...lol 
09-01-2012, 12:33 PM
#897
Engineer in Training
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JayVee (09-01-2012)
09-01-2012, 02:54 PM
#898
Ok Buddies, the moment we all are waiting for is coming to a near... After my EPIC FAIL and wast of time using the PARMA LIQUID MASK on the car paint, I immediately moved on to the next step. I sanded the raised letters down to a nickle brushed finish and sprayed everything black again.
Then I lightly sanded all the raised letters and logo to provide a new surface to adhere to for the teal.
Next I masked the outer perimeter of the raised design for my next attempt of masking with....VASELINE! Yep, the good Ol'Faithful lube!...lol! Because it of its properties, paint does not adhere at all to this stuff. (NOTE: Grease, oil,toothpaste...and other products can be ised for simular job/projects.)
Sprayed a very very light coat and second coat later on. Both coats were important to be a mist application to allow a good layer and foundation for the TEAL paint, especially since it was just goo'd with VASELINE! The raised surface was wiped repeatedly with Simply Green, Alcohol and sand paper...in different orders, whatever seem to work to get the surface true.
Next was a very tedious step, carefully removing the Vaseline and paint w/o lifting the paint on the raised surface. I used a combination of QTips, Razor Blade and even a toothpick for the fine corners and to break the paint away from paint lines I needed.
Now for the final product getting cleared and dried
The clear really helped cover the TAPE MASKING lines from the VASELINE steps. Another coat of clear was added even after this pic below:
as always, MORE TO COME!
Then I lightly sanded all the raised letters and logo to provide a new surface to adhere to for the teal.
Next I masked the outer perimeter of the raised design for my next attempt of masking with....VASELINE! Yep, the good Ol'Faithful lube!...lol! Because it of its properties, paint does not adhere at all to this stuff. (NOTE: Grease, oil,toothpaste...and other products can be ised for simular job/projects.)
Sprayed a very very light coat and second coat later on. Both coats were important to be a mist application to allow a good layer and foundation for the TEAL paint, especially since it was just goo'd with VASELINE! The raised surface was wiped repeatedly with Simply Green, Alcohol and sand paper...in different orders, whatever seem to work to get the surface true.
Next was a very tedious step, carefully removing the Vaseline and paint w/o lifting the paint on the raised surface. I used a combination of QTips, Razor Blade and even a toothpick for the fine corners and to break the paint away from paint lines I needed.
Now for the final product getting cleared and dried
The clear really helped cover the TAPE MASKING lines from the VASELINE steps. Another coat of clear was added even after this pic below:
as always, MORE TO COME!
Last edited by JayVee; 09-01-2012 at 02:56 PM.
09-01-2012, 03:50 PM
#902
Team Owner
It kind of goes in here. Matches the Image Dynamics colors. Looks good.
09-02-2012, 09:11 PM
#905
can someone help this dude with his issue. I told him to post here since its a open conversation re: ALL audio but he continues to only post in his poorly titled thread...IMO
anyways, here is his last comment & thread: ~Bukvaman
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/ready-go-ib-setup-863944/
Ok guys i definitely have a problem with my head unit left channel. I said above that one puts out a stronger signal then the other.... i mistyped and said that the right is weaker but its the left one...
My problem originally was that my left side always sounded muffled as oppose to the right side. Changing the tweeter polarity seemed to have helped and i thought it was a phasing issue and that it was solved but it was not. No matter what i tried the right side sounded so much cleaner and easier on the ear, just wonderful. The left side always muffled and boomy and hard to listen to.
My first approach to find the problem was to switch the component crossovers, basically hook everything from the left speaker side to the crossover from the right, as i thought the one of the component crossovers could have been bad.
That didn't make a difference. Then I took out the tweeters and switched them around. The one on the right now with the set of the left. Also didnt help.
Last thing i did was to take the signal from the right channel and y-split it to feed both channels on the amp. Finally both side speakers sounded the same. Crisp and clear !!!
But its not a solution as im losing stereo...
Now what should i do.... obviously a factory unit as shitty as it is its not cheap. I found some for 120 and change on ebay but they look a little scratched... Im wondering if i could just change out the guts.
At one point I had cd's stuck in my unit and they changed it trough warranty.
Now look what they put in.....
Should i go aftermarket or get the factory unit.
anyways, here is his last comment & thread: ~Bukvaman
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/ready-go-ib-setup-863944/
Ok guys i definitely have a problem with my head unit left channel. I said above that one puts out a stronger signal then the other.... i mistyped and said that the right is weaker but its the left one...
My problem originally was that my left side always sounded muffled as oppose to the right side. Changing the tweeter polarity seemed to have helped and i thought it was a phasing issue and that it was solved but it was not. No matter what i tried the right side sounded so much cleaner and easier on the ear, just wonderful. The left side always muffled and boomy and hard to listen to.
My first approach to find the problem was to switch the component crossovers, basically hook everything from the left speaker side to the crossover from the right, as i thought the one of the component crossovers could have been bad.
That didn't make a difference. Then I took out the tweeters and switched them around. The one on the right now with the set of the left. Also didnt help.
Last thing i did was to take the signal from the right channel and y-split it to feed both channels on the amp. Finally both side speakers sounded the same. Crisp and clear !!!
But its not a solution as im losing stereo...
Now what should i do.... obviously a factory unit as shitty as it is its not cheap. I found some for 120 and change on ebay but they look a little scratched... Im wondering if i could just change out the guts.
At one point I had cd's stuck in my unit and they changed it trough warranty.
Now look what they put in.....
Should i go aftermarket or get the factory unit.
Last edited by JayVee; 09-02-2012 at 09:14 PM.
The following users liked this post:
BukvaMan (09-02-2012)
09-09-2012, 09:16 PM
#906
Three Wheelin'
I would like to address the topic on setting the output on the amplifier...
Front speakers ...
When for example i set the output on my amp at a desired maximum volume which in my case would be 35 and play 1khz tone to set the gain for a full capable 100 watts (20volts), the speakers cant really take it at some high mid-bass trance songs...to be honest i would probably go deaf too
Even when setting the switch on the crossover to -3db for the tweeter it is still to loud. Thinking that the speakers never push 100 watts when playing a regular song then why the need for more power. Dont you have headroom already like that...
I tried bridging my four channel amp for a capable 200 watts per channel but i cant set the gains no where near that. As a matter of fact the speakers sound better not bridged... i get more mid-bass. Could be related to my amp tough...
Even not bridged at volume 1, it is still to loud for the times where you just wake up
Now talk about matching that with the sub. At full volume it overpowers the sub kinda and its not balanced.
when setting everything to around 16 volts output i get plenty of volume and tons of mid-bass output and nothing is distorted sounding, its not distorted at full output either but the speakers just cant take it mechanically from lets say volume 32 and up.
Listening to Alicia Keyes for example its not a problem for mid-bass but the vocals are still too loud and my tweeters are more kinda laid back sounding.
So now i have two free channels, had rear fill running of the stock amp and its plenty for rear passengers. Should i amp the rears now or leave it at stock. Its kinda silly having two free channels but it would be easier on the amp tough. Running all fours i could take out the stock amp completely.
Also i would like to add that the front channels are picked up of the head unit into the RF-bld line driver to the amp. There is clip led on the RF-bld and no mattare wich song it never lights up showing clipping... so the signal should be clean.
Front speakers ...
When for example i set the output on my amp at a desired maximum volume which in my case would be 35 and play 1khz tone to set the gain for a full capable 100 watts (20volts), the speakers cant really take it at some high mid-bass trance songs...to be honest i would probably go deaf too
Even when setting the switch on the crossover to -3db for the tweeter it is still to loud. Thinking that the speakers never push 100 watts when playing a regular song then why the need for more power. Dont you have headroom already like that...I tried bridging my four channel amp for a capable 200 watts per channel but i cant set the gains no where near that. As a matter of fact the speakers sound better not bridged... i get more mid-bass. Could be related to my amp tough...
Even not bridged at volume 1, it is still to loud for the times where you just wake up
Now talk about matching that with the sub. At full volume it overpowers the sub kinda and its not balanced.
when setting everything to around 16 volts output i get plenty of volume and tons of mid-bass output and nothing is distorted sounding, its not distorted at full output either but the speakers just cant take it mechanically from lets say volume 32 and up.
Listening to Alicia Keyes for example its not a problem for mid-bass but the vocals are still too loud and my tweeters are more kinda laid back sounding.
So now i have two free channels, had rear fill running of the stock amp and its plenty for rear passengers. Should i amp the rears now or leave it at stock. Its kinda silly having two free channels but it would be easier on the amp tough. Running all fours i could take out the stock amp completely.
Also i would like to add that the front channels are picked up of the head unit into the RF-bld line driver to the amp. There is clip led on the RF-bld and no mattare wich song it never lights up showing clipping... so the signal should be clean.
Last edited by BukvaMan; 09-09-2012 at 09:27 PM.
09-14-2012, 03:31 AM
#907
no response to Buk ^^^ ??? 
...anyways, (UPDATE) after my last post and issue(s) system has been fine after finding a equal sweet spot where everything sounded balanced and clean...Until yesterday
I hear this weird vibrating farting noise coming from my sub. Even with the volume low at 10-12-15ish, keeping the sub BASS to a minimum and concentrating on the weird noise, u hear it then. Idk much about subs or what is the sound of a "Blown" or bad sub, but IMO sounds like a blown voice coil maybe. You guys know what I am talking about or familiar with the noise I am describing? HELP! and thanks!
...anyways, (UPDATE) after my last post and issue(s) system has been fine after finding a equal sweet spot where everything sounded balanced and clean...Until yesterday
I hear this weird vibrating farting noise coming from my sub. Even with the volume low at 10-12-15ish, keeping the sub BASS to a minimum and concentrating on the weird noise, u hear it then. Idk much about subs or what is the sound of a "Blown" or bad sub, but IMO sounds like a blown voice coil maybe. You guys know what I am talking about or familiar with the noise I am describing? HELP! and thanks!
09-14-2012, 04:46 AM
#908
Team Owner
What is your subsonic set at and how muvh power? For a beginner its best to start with it at a higher frequency like 35hz or even 40hz depending on the slope snd slowly work your way down. Listen to the sub up close from the trunk side and the cabin side.
It could be something vibrating that came loose. If the sub is damaged I suggest an IDMax in its place. You can reuse the baffle and you get over double the excursion. If you really like cranking the power up with a low subsonic filter, you're going to need more displacement. More subs, larger subs, more excursion, or all three.
Its probably just something that came loose.
It could be something vibrating that came loose. If the sub is damaged I suggest an IDMax in its place. You can reuse the baffle and you get over double the excursion. If you really like cranking the power up with a low subsonic filter, you're going to need more displacement. More subs, larger subs, more excursion, or all three.
Its probably just something that came loose.
09-14-2012, 05:45 AM
#909
What is your subsonic set at and how much power? For a beginner its best to start with it at a higher frequency like 35hz or even 40hz depending on the slope snd slowly work your way down. Listen to the sub up close from the trunk side and the cabin side.
It could be something vibrating that came loose. If the sub is damaged I suggest an IDMax in its place. You can reuse the baffle and you get over double the excursion. If you really like cranking the power up with a low subsonic filter, you're going to need more displacement. More subs, larger subs, more excursion, or all three.
Its probably just something that came loose.
It could be something vibrating that came loose. If the sub is damaged I suggest an IDMax in its place. You can reuse the baffle and you get over double the excursion. If you really like cranking the power up with a low subsonic filter, you're going to need more displacement. More subs, larger subs, more excursion, or all three.
Its probably just something that came loose.
But there is NO WAY in hell I re-doing the baffle for more speakers or bigger speakers... 
But the IDMAX is a good option and always wondered how the IDMAX compared to my IDQ in the IB. From what I have read and remember from some of u guys, you prefer the IDMAX. So if FAILED, that maybe my next move.
09-14-2012, 07:45 AM
#910
YOU GUYS ARE NOT GOING TO BELIEVE THIS SHIT!
I was just outside on my lunch break investigating the noise a lil further as advised by IHC ^^^ from the trunk side. What I did was listen to the vibration and I heard it pretty loud from the trunk side. So I reached in and pushed "Lightly"on the rear of the speaker magnet adding some pressure to see if the vibration stopped or lessened. And right then and there in my hand as soon as I added the pressure it SNAPPED! the entire cage SNAPPED! The cage and entire magnet and rear of the speaker fell right the fk off! I have a phone pic of the FAIL I will post later. That was my noise and that is why it was worse this morning.
I was just outside on my lunch break investigating the noise a lil further as advised by IHC ^^^ from the trunk side. What I did was listen to the vibration and I heard it pretty loud from the trunk side. So I reached in and pushed "Lightly"on the rear of the speaker magnet adding some pressure to see if the vibration stopped or lessened. And right then and there in my hand as soon as I added the pressure it SNAPPED!
the entire cage SNAPPED! The cage and entire magnet and rear of the speaker fell right the fk off! I have a phone pic of the FAIL I will post later. That was my noise and that is why it was worse this morning.
09-14-2012, 07:58 AM
#912
When I saw it was plastic (assumed it was metal when I was doing the install...) I was like WTF! REALLY!?
09-14-2012, 08:30 AM
#913
Racer
Here's a link to a thread of someone who had a similar experience: http://www.caraudioforum.com/showthread.php?t=336050. You could probably get ID to send you a new basket and recone kit, but it sounds like it would be a hassle unless they've gotten their staffing and customer services issues worked out.
09-14-2012, 08:39 AM
#914
Here's a link to a thread of someone who had a similar experience: http://www.caraudioforum.com/showthread.php?t=336050. You could probably get ID to send you a new basket and recone kit, but it sounds like it would be a hassle unless they've gotten their staffing and customer services issues worked out.
09-14-2012, 04:20 PM
#916
Ok fellas, hitting back on the subject I started earlier on what happen to my sub...Here are the pics:
On a brighter note, I spoke to Jerry/niebur3 about my issue and he ref'd me to call IMAGE DYNAMICS directly for a replacement for this known issue. Without a "PEEP!" from the rep (Richard @ ID) he just said, "DONE! here some info and #'s and email and we will send you a brand new IDQ sub." ~ WOW!
to ID customer service and standing behind their product with no issues or requirements such as receipts or auth. dealer proof of any kind. NO HASSLE what so ever! Makes me ~
On a brighter note, I spoke to Jerry/niebur3 about my issue and he ref'd me to call IMAGE DYNAMICS directly for a replacement for this known issue. Without a "PEEP!" from the rep (Richard @ ID) he just said, "DONE! here some info and #'s and email and we will send you a brand new IDQ sub." ~ WOW!
to ID customer service and standing behind their product with no issues or requirements such as receipts or auth. dealer proof of any kind. NO HASSLE what so ever! Makes me ~
