stevemk07

I am trying to determine the best way to improve sound in my car. I assume that the HU does not put out a flat signal nor does our amp reproduce a flat signal. Has the HU been calibrated to compensate for the shortcomings of the stock speakers and amplifier? Will my response be worse if I add aftermarket speakers and amp without any signal processing?

Thanks in advance.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I just wrote a nice reply, but some idiot decided to put the "previous thread" button right below the "post reply". Not easy on a phones sometimes

Anyways, pre-amp is flat, but voltage is super low. Post-amp is not flat and does compensate for factory setup. Don't advise using it post-amp.

You on the fence about upgrading??

stevemk07

I am. If money weren't an issue I'd have done it by now so I am trying to make as few mistakes as possible. Done ok so far. Kenwood 8105d mono amp for 125 (was measuring 45V on the outputs the other day playing a 50hz note but it still sounded clean to me, turned it down to read 31.6 and up just a bit anyway) and hertz hx250d for 80 in custom sealed enclsure (port stuffed with towel).

Thinking about focal 165vb for front (not sure they will fit, seen some places list them at 6.75") and maybe a 4,5 channel amp at 60-70 watts/ch, keep rest stock. One of those uncald4 enclosures may be in my future, but who knows.

I have had the same nightmares on my phone. Moreso with this current one which I thankfully don't have to be using now.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Well what's your overall budget? I'd set aside $50-60 for deadening and sealing. It will make a world of difference. With more expensive sets most people usually deaden/seal, but they already have gobs of midbass on tap. With budget sets, midbass is usually lacking so install is important. Install is ALWAYS important, but you know what I mean lol.

I forgot about your box issue. I'd definitely just pick up a sealed box instead of the half sealed/half ported thing you got now lol. Most people that by pre-fab sealed boxes have to deal with them only being half the width of our trunk, but deep so they stick out and make you lose trunk space. The one I just built is only 9.5-10" deep, but 31" long. Should have plenty of trunk space left if space saving is what you're after

stevemk07

Don't have one in mind. I just want greatest improvement for as little as possible. Don't like how I have to give up mid bass to gain clarity.

I might try plugging the box with a black towel in the future... There's a white one in there now.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

You don't have to give up midbass, you just have to do the proper treatment so that it's not lost. You could put in components that will be 10x better than stock, deadening/sealing & 4 or 5-channel amp for around $400 easy.

stevemk07

Do you know if 2 9/16" top mount depth is possible? Believe that's what the Focal 165vb is and they're just a little over 200. I've read good things about inverted dome tweeters in our stock location.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I'm using the ID cx62, which has a depth of 3-1/16". I'm using a 3/4" MDF spacer, but there's about 1/4" or a tiny tad more than that that's recessed. So basically a 1/2" spacer and they clear fine.

I've given some very serious thought to seeing how thick of a spacer we can have and because I think there's still quite a bit of room to the door panel (make sure you trim away the ring on the inside of the door panel where the speaker is...you'll see it). It'd be pretty cool to toss an 8" in there

stevemk07

hmmm..... will have to think about that but I think 6.5 is big enough. A good set should theoretically get you down to around 70 hz and the sub can take over from there. No?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

A tweeter will get to 100hz, but not loudly. An extreme analogy, but why not have a larger midbass in there that could do 70 and under..with ease (aka less distortion & louder). I wasnt saying you should do it lol. Just rambling. Not too many sets will reach down to 70hz though

If only I had a garage...

stevemk07

Hadnt considered a bigger speaker but it makes me think there should not be any problem installing 6.75".

you got me thinking about it and the only thing that cmes to mind is the selection of 8" speakers and the value you woud get compared to the very common and competitive 6.5" speaker.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

There are some incredible 8" pro audio and midbass drivers out there. I would run them, but I'd need to set up a 3-way as they would start to beam and get ugly much earlier than the 6.5".

You won't have any problems fitting a 6.75" or so. 3/4" spacer and you'll clear more than I do.

stevemk07

Yeah, i have some major beaming in my guitar amp speaker (v30) and dont desire that for sound reproduction. I tried an rta program with decent microphone last night and pink noise. I need to experiment with that some more before doing anything else.