When installing a LOC after the factory amp, do you just tap into the factory wires that run to the speakers or do you have to cut the wires completely and attach to the wires on the LOC?
I want to add aftermarket components to the front and was thinking it is easiest to use the factory speaker wire... can someone tell me if this would be correct: cut factory wire after amp and hook up to LOC then hook up the other cut end to the aftermarket component crossover. Or if there is any easy way to run new wires to the doors I would love to know.
I hope I am making sense here. Please give me some help on the my 2 questions.
TIA

 

I'm not sure what you are trying to do.

Are you just adding speakers to the OEM amp? If so the OEM amp will not be enough to properly drive your new speakers. Adding front only will sound off balance since the front and back are of different Ohm.

To answer your question. I would cut the speaker out from the amp, connect these to your LOC. Run the wires from the LOC to the crossovers and then run new speaker wire to the new tweeters and new wire to the OEM speaker wire you just cut since this will go to the door.

Does that make sense??

 

I am planning on adding components in the front, coax in the rear and a sub in the trunk. I just wasn't too sure on how to hook up the LOC. In my previous cars I always changed the HU so I didn't have to use LOCs. But you answered my question on using the factory speaker wire for the doors.

I have another question for you... If I'm not going to be using the factory speaker wire for the rears and sub, do I still need to completely cut the factory wire after the amp to connect the LOC or can i just tap into them and leave the factory wiring intact and just not connect them at the end? (Just unclip them from the factory speakers and leave them hanging there)
Hope you understand what I'm asking.

TIA

 

hey i have been reading allot of good things about the new JLaudio clean sweep, it prevents you from screwing up your wiring and giving you the fatory radio and steering wheel controls but letting you install aftermarket amp and subs, very easy instalation and it has an audio cd to set up the system with, the cd sets it up for you and it will accept stuff like an ipod and a xm radio too. its what i am looking at getting for my car.

 

Just tap into them and leave the ends hanging.

Several members have used the cleansweep with mix results. Useful but not really needed. The rockford 3sixty is a better choice. Good quality LOCs will work fine at more than half the cost.

Here's link to my install. Hope it helps.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133822

 

Yea, I saw your post on your installation. I am also going to order the Navone LOC on your recommendation.
Where did you hook up the remote wire to for the aftermarket amps?

 

When I did my XM mod awhile back I tapped into the power socket in the center storage compartment and ran it to the trunk for the switch so that I could listen to xm and the ipod. I pulled out the switch when my xm expired but left the power wire in place. I used this for my remote on for the amps.

 

Do you know if the stock amp has a remote turn on wire that I can tap into? Also, is it better to connect the LOC right after the stock amp or closer to the aftermarket amp?

Thanks for all the helpful info... really appreciate it.

 

I think the stock amp has a turn on. I wonder if you can get the trun on signal from the XM receiver located in the trunk??. Not sure which is better closer to the stock amp or closer to the new amp. No room to put it near the stock amp away.

 

ya the factory amp has a remote turn on its a red with yellow strip on the harness closer to the firewall. i just fifnished adding some front components a few days ago now im doin the costom fiberglass enclosers in the rear. the speakers are not loud enough cuz im not getting a high enough voltage to the amp so i just ordered a line driver. and as for the clean sweep im an certified installer at tweeter and 80% of the time we have installed them we either had promblems with them or they are not need a good loc will def do the job.

 

I'm working on the custom fiberglass enclosure too. I finished my mold last weekend. Now, I'm working on cutting an MDF insert to fit over it. I'll post pics when I'm done.

Everyone, thanks for the tips on where to make the taps. This should help me out big time with my audio install.

 

Despite what you have been reading, the cleansweep is a POS, ask any installer that sells JL and has used that piece. The CLeansweep has been gone from my car for a month and it has been music to my ears.....instead of engine noise.

 

How are you not getting enough signal? The factory amp is your line driver......My gains are buried ( all the way down) and I can't be in the car when it is turned up past 18-19.

 

kyle-wdp / King of Pain, are you guys using capacitors with your audio setups?

 

i dont know why its weirld ive never had this promblem before. its not much louder then the factory speakers. and its not like i used crappy product i have $800 polk audio speakers and a $800 audison amp. what brand loc did you use??

 

Navone......installed after the factory amp and before my JL amp.

 

I'm not, I only have one amp so I didn't deem it necessary.

 

I'm using 150 for my sub and 45 for my speakers. No caps needed. I'm like Kyle, anything past 20 and my ears start to bleed.

 

doesnt engine noise mean you have a bad ground? sounds to me like a incorrect install, but you could be right about the clean sweep, i am not sure what i am using i still am thinking about the cleansweep, but all i know is that i want to keep it looking factory upfront, and run subs and amp.

 

You may want to look into the Rockford 3sixty if you really want a processor soontoownTL. I thought about using the 3sixty until I installed the Navone LOCs. I 'm using LOCs with full factory functions for the stock HU. Really sounds amazing.

Engine noise usually is from a bad ground, usually. It may also be a loose wire somewhere letting noise into the signal. It's one of the hardest things to pin point.

 

The installer has 15 years experience, he was against getting signal before the amp from the begining. He said it would be too weak, we moved the ground around to no avail, then we removed the Cleansweep from the car and no noise. It could have been a bad unit but I don't think it is a necessary piece to having a great system.

 

yeah i had just read about it and hadn't heard first hand problems with it, i had figured it would be a easy way to install aftermarket amps and subs to a factory system, cause that was the main purpose of its design, but allot of you swear by the navone locs and that is probably what i will go with. i appreciate the input.