So I'll be adding an amp/sub combo to my trunk and I already know how to install most of it. The only thing that's new to me is the LOC or Line Out Converter.

I know you need to tap in the OEM sub wires, but is there a precise way to do this? I bought the Kicker KISLOC and there's five wires on it. There's two grey wires for Right + and -, two whites for Left + and -, and a brown for ground. So how should I plug in all those wires? Once that's done the rest will be a breeze.

 

I haven't done this in the tl but I have in many other cars. As for your power and ground you are still going to have to supply that. I've heard grounding to the rear frame close to the fuel pump ground is a good place and you will need to run a power wire from your battery. There's a ton of DIY guides for running power and I'm sure in the garage there's a sub install. The factory sub wires you use only for the audio. (red/white). Don't quote me 100% because I'm sure someone will chime in with a link but regardless you will need your own power and ground so do some research on how you choose to feed it to the trunk

 

When I installed my loc I ran it post stock amp, it allows use of the head unit to control the sub level. I believe I twisted both positives together and soldered them to the sub + from the sub amp and did the same for the negatives. Then I ran a "y" rca cable to take both loc outputs and put into one signal which plugged into the aftermaket amp. No need for the ground wire. I cut mine short and put shrink wrap over it

 

Put a male connector on both left wires and the same one both rights, then plug them into the slots on the oem plug for the factory sub. Easy.

 

Return unit. Purchase jl line driver then tap preamp sub wires. The dfiference in sound quality is greater than purchasing a $2000 sub and keeping the signal coming from the factory amp. Trust me.

keep sub wires thick and short. Put amp in trunk. 4 gauge welding cable should do the trick for power. Run it down left side and signals down right side. I used twisted rca.

 

Ignore my first post, was slightly intoxicated when I read your post lol

 

Hi guys, as I mentioned before, I only need directions for the LOC. I know well how to install the rest. As for the wires, I have everything covered too. I bought some Knukonceptz wires off Amazon, which are really thick copper-only wires. No aluminum/copper mix. It said it's a 4 gauge but it looks thicker than that.

stevemk07, I'll be connecting mine post-amp so getting the line driver is not going to happen. For now anyway. As long as I'm getting a decent quality of sound, I'll be happy.

SocomM4, that really is the easiest way lol! Guess I'll go with that.

Gadgetmanconnor, yeah I'll ignore that one :-P

 

what size should I get for the male connectors?

 

Does anyone have a link to a write up on how to access the stock sub to get to the wires ?

 

If your going to the effort to modify/upgrade your system, it makes absolutely no sense to go post amp. Use the best source possible.

 

I am only adding a sub, not upgrading the whole system.

 

i couldn't because I have a static hiss I can't get rid of and my sub would just tremble if I gave it pre amp inputs. I've talked to about 10 people on here and a few shops and no one can figure out why I have the static.

post amp was a no brainer and it sounds good to me

 

It's pretty easy, you just need to remove the underside of the rear deck from the trunk. You need a star-shaped and a flat-head screwdriver, and that's about it.
I might do it eventually, for now my budget won't allow more expenses towards my car. Like I said, as long as it sounds decent to me, I'll be happy.

 

I agree, for the sub signal ONLY its not as critical

 

I thought you had to remove the rear seats, no?

 

To remove the sub you do. To get to the connections no. That's from in the trunk.

 

Right on. Thanks ! Is this something you did ? Do you get any off set firing of the OEM sub from the air in the trunk from the new sub ?

 

My OEM sub is disconnected, but still in place

 

If you use the factory sub connector to send a signal to your aftermarket sub, your factory sub will not work anymore since it will be unplugged.

To come back to what you asked earlier on how to access the sub wiring, yes you can get to the wiring from the trunk without removing the seats. But if you're adding an amp with your sub, you'll need to remove the seats to feed the wires (power and remote) from front to back.

 

 

you do not need to remove the seats to feed the wires from front to back. there's a gap between the seat and the side of the car and using a coat hanger very carefully you can thread the wires through that area for a clean install. search the forum for a pic of this, i think it was in a deathmetal write up or something.

 

Thanks guys. Yes what I was trying to say is sometimes the air pressure from the new aftermarket sub can make the cone in the OEM sub distort if you leave it in, even disconnected. Its the air that pushes it.

 

And I just fed the wires yesterday by removing the seats... One day too late for me dude. Good to know though, I forgot the bass knob wire and didn't want to remove the seats again.

 

Guess you'll have to be more precise with the thread you talked about. Searching for his username got me 13 pages to look at, and I just spent about an hour looking at everything in the 3G TL Audio, Bluetooth, etc. that he was in.

Was it in his complete build thread? I've looked at a few pages and he doesn't mention much in terms of cables, just that he added his subs and amp.