I would go for the JL Audio CleanSweep and any type of JL Audio amp and sub

 

Any update to this thread? Im looking to put in a JL 8W3 and am looking for more pics, step-by-step instructions, etc.

Also looking for specs about clearance on how large an opening you have for an aftermarket sub, such as depth and such.

Thanks!

 

???
JL 8W 3v2 is a drop in. Remove the rear deck, remove sub, install JL sub... That's it.

 

Understood all that. But was wondering if anyone knew the exact specs for the stock sub opening. The JL 8w3v3 is a tad larger and was wondering if that would fit.

 

Damn that looks sweet. How much did that run you start to finish?

 

i will have a solution soon....hehehehe.

 

I know the 8W 3v2 magnet RESTS on the bottom of the sheetmetal rear deck (the cone parts actually sticks through the hole), so if the 8W3v3 is any "deeper", it won't fit without a serious set of grinding.

Not sure why you'd go so big anyway, if you're running this sub free air, your gonna blow it up with a big amp. I've almost blown mine 2X with only 150 rms JL e1200. You can't drive the hell out of these things as the cone will jump out of the magenet with nothing to "push" against.

8W3v3 specs - note "E"
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=27

8W3v2 specs
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=19

 

This TL's system was in Mobile Electronics Magazine Jan '06 it was done a number of years ago so we don't remember off hand. The components themselves are around 8K and we believe it was about a 50/50 split

 

please god .....check your pms . i sent you the solution. its going out for mass production on monday

 

nice clean/factory look setup with the 8w3v2.. did u wire this directly to the factory amp or did u install an aftermarket amp? why did u upgrade to the 10 and what model did u use? im just curious cause i have a new 12" alpine type-r that i have had for a while that i was thinking of using but i dont want to lose trunk space. really considering just going the JL 8 route.

 

it says 8w3v2........it's 8" not 10"

 

What are you marketing? I am ready to do this upgrade as well.

 

if u noticed later in the thread he noted that he upgraded to a 10" which is why i asked why and what model.. and now that i re-read it i see it was a JL 10w3v3 fiberglassed in the rear deck

 

Does this look stock enough for you?

 

just an update on my end...I fixed my problem of not quite enough bass.

I bought....one of these

 

is this custom fab or or these mas produced by a company.. if so i would like to pick one up.... nice and clean

 

send me a email and i will get you info of where to order a nicer one Jelloneil1@aol.com

 

TLFourplay or anyone else whose done this,

I know I'm late asking this question and you've probably upgrade significantly since then, but when you installed the JL Subwoofer, was it an drop in place with no modifications??

If so, good to hear. I'm not looking to "CRANK" it like my wife's ride, but I wanna add a little more and keep it stock. Don't get me wrong, I'm sold on using an amp to increase the output and quality, but after hooking up my wife's honda, I have no desire to repeat those steps again.


Honestly, I'm just trying to keep it simple and make it happen a little better so when the windows are down and I'm on freeway, I don't have to keep it locked on 40!!!

 

the part you guys are missing is that every sub has a free air resonance but that doesnt mean it has a good one. free air sub is just a sub that works best in a ..........16 cubic foot enclosure which is why it works best in your trunk
( a huge enclosure) when you use a regular sub in the wrong enclosure all you gain is low end below where the ear can hear. You can use a focal free air 10 and cut the steel to fit it cause thats the best application for this car

 

.

 

Ive bought an TMA t2360.2 for an amp its a jl audio owned company with no flash. And ordered a 8w1v2 for the stock location. I will be dynamatting a bit around the sub and such but will also use the wooden plugs idea to seperate the sub chamber from the trunk or at least the rear speakers. I may leave just the magnet hole cutout and glue some material there to allow the sub to breath in a controlled manner but to act as a mildly larger enclosure, Ive seen this done on a few sq cars so its worth testing and if I use the right material aka fleece or grill cloth, and then decide it is too loose i could always resin soak it and layer a bit of glass there to close it up to sealed status. I believe the tl has a great sound but just needs a bit more bump/thump, like the bass chords to kick drum area all other areas are very well determined and vocals seem good.
Also with the amp I will be using there will be enough power from the second channel to drive a light 12 or 10 for real deep bass if I want to.
I know there are high level inputs on this amplifier and would like to use those. Connected directly to the stock sub wire connector, is this ok? I have done it in a ford bronco using rear speaker leads but they were a weak signal so....
Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

 

holy thread revival!

 

Yes! Thread revival! I read all the posts, and I didn't see a straight answer about whether the 8w3v2 required an additional amp. I've read in another thread that they ran it with another amp, and sealed/boxed the rear deck.

I think from this thread, I gather that you can just drop the 8w3v2 where the factory sub is (without an additional amp and without sealing/boxing the rear deck)? But then someone mentioned the need for a LOC. Was that to power the additional 10" sub?

 

Yeah, I'm confused about the need for an LOC too? Is the JL 8w3v2 just going to drop in and plug in?
And will the speaker grill still fit over this 8" sub?

 

WOAH! '07....that is all

 

i wonder if a 8W7 would fit

 

At least people are searching the forums instead of taking the lazy way out and posting 123412345 more of the same!

 

I pretti much had the same goal in mind, but didn't want to drill new holes on the rear deck to accomplish it. Downside of course is that I lose the spare, but this option was well worth the sacrifice

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...cura-tl-s.html

 

Mark i found this from way back in the day.....

 

All I gotta say is don't go with Basslink...I just bought one and am pretty disappointed with the way the bass sounds & it doesn't really add a whole lot of it anyways. Probably gonna go with a JL 8" in the rear deck instead...

Unless anyone who has one can tell me how they have theirs setup to make it sound good... I'm open to suggestions!!

 

^^ what he said. Any1?