So I decided to go ahead and do my component upgrade and after researching on AZ of course, some spec comparrioson, and recomendations I went with Polks. I replaced all my speakers and removed my dead stock sub to get more sound from my Rockford Fosgate stage 2 12 in the trunk.

To compare to stock I would say The volume is NOT noticably louder but the CLEARITY makes the stock sound like hot garbage. I am running them off the factory amp so I can keep my HFL and whatnot. Now the Polks are 4 ohm as opposed to the stock 2 but the sensitivity is in the high 90s so what they make MUCH better use of the power given plus they can take a beating so they should not blow like factory. now the TWEETERS I had to add a circuit (noise cancelling I ASSUME) to take away a popping noise I had at high voulumes. Which was a little hard to install. (circut was included)

I only had to cut the stock tweeter wires all the others I used a harness adapter that crutchfield threw in. The rear deck I had to use adapter bracets that where included from CF. And the Door speakers I slightly modified the stock speaker "cup" center speaker was straight and easiest. here are some pics.











I took the center speaker pic like this since you mount it to the grill

If any one is interested in doing this then I would be willing to sell the extra center speaker

 

Iam lookin into changing my speakers allso. What size you have in front door, center and rear deck speakers?

My sub is blown i order MB QUART 8 inch so iam thinking of changing all.

thanx

 

door and read deck speakers are 6.5

center is 3.5

 

Was there a big difference when you removed the stock sub and left it open like that? Do you hear any wind or road noise coming from the trunk area?

 

ummmmm no....as long as u leave the tweeters connected you are still at 2 ohm. they are bridged and tied directly into the lines for the front door speakers. and you can still keep HFL with an upgraded amp.

 

Whose question are you answering?

 

sorry for the confusion....rj made a comment in the very beginning.....fly u dont hear wind or roadnoise....just the junk in ur trunk when u take the sub out n leave it out. i took mine out for about a month til i decided i was going to fiberglass the whole trunk and i didnt hear anything.

 

tripp

I didnt know the woofer and tweeter was bridged since i didnt plan on removing/relocating the tweets and thanks for the correction on the HFL if I ever decide (which I doubt) to upgrade the amp.

FLY

I dont hear any noise but as far as bass I cant really say weather or not it helps since i upgraded the rears at the same time i removed the stock sub. so if your not using it or it went bad as mine did, and if your going to go to the trouble of gettting back there might as well take it out if for nothing but weight reduction

 

glad i could help...... my sub blew out where the spider and cone met, when i decided it was time for an upgrade.....then I decided it was time for a whole system wide upgrade......now u cant be in the car at the highest volumes. lol

 

nice hows it sound from the outside mine is pretty contained with the exception of a little licence plate rattle. now i just have to stop being cheap and by some quieter tires.

 

no plate rattle because of the vent.....plus the whole car is sound proofed, including the door with special dampening material. outside, everything within 40 ft of the car shakes n rattles. last night i blew my bass amp showing a customer how hard it hit....sux...its an old rockford mono amp that had that heat sink looking design on the outside. I think I blew a sub too but that was going because it had ripples in the foam from something i knew i shouldnt have put in my trunk n i did =(... but i have an extra so no biggie.. .Im surprised it all kept going this long at the amount of abuse its taken the past 2yrs. TIME FOR AN UPGRAADE!!! lol

 

i want to improve my sound also. how much would you want for it. and did you have to cut any wire, or you just swap them out. and also what do you mean ". now the TWEETERS I had to add a circuit (noise cancelling I ASSUME) to take away a popping noise I had at high voulumes. Which was a little hard to install. (circut was included).
and also did you cut a hole for the flush tweeter? sorry about all the question. thanks for you patients...

 

I used an adapter harness for the speakers so no wires were cut the exception being the tweeters which i had to cut and splice in along with the circuts to install not a big deal just time comsuming. I did not cut any hole for the tweeters I put them in to the one of the the cups they come with and sat it down in the factory whole it fit like it belonged there.

I have 2 people asking for the center speaker if niether of them get it ill sell it to you. im basically asking for half of what i paid (since they are sold as pair) plus shipping and I am throwing in the wire harness you will need for a cut/solder free install.

 

What is this circuit you are talking about for the tweeter? Why do you need it? What does it look like?

 

i dont know what circuit he's talking about... the only thing i can think of thats close is that the tweeters and front door speakers are bridged.....in order to achieve the right sound u have to seperate them unless you're only upgrading speakers and adding a crossover to the front speaker system.

 

Are the door spkrs and dash tweets tied together (front left & right)? That is what I was thinking and wondering how to set those up when I do my upgrade.

 

yes they are thats why when u take them out the speakers say 2ohms on the back....they're bridged.... you just have to disconnect the tweeters in the dash and u got 4 ohms....problem solved....thing is you have to run wires differently now, if you're using a crossover...but if ur going with higher performance equipment you dont need to use a crossover for speaker and tweeter.

 

Wouldn't the spkr/tweet wires run back the crossover box then? I have only done one component type install (MB Quart in my truck), so I am trying to get a handle on all I need to account for to do this job.

 

The circut I am talking about comes with the tweeters I did not take a pic of it unfortunatly its a small circut bord wrapped in heat sink with 4 long @$$ wires for input and output. when i installed the tweeters I had a poping sound. At first I thought I may have reversed the pos/neg then after checking with a meter I found that was not the case. So I added one of the circuts and the noise went away. the circut is probbaly for degerative feedback or noise limiting.

 

Anybody know where I can find the scans to remove the door panels?

 

yes there should be some in the 3G garage its pretty simple ill see if i can find a link

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/car-talk-5/my-car-super-street-143797/

https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/trance-list-93985/

 

I did some searching in The Garage area and found where a very generous and helpful person added scanned pages from the service manual showing how to remove the door panels, console, rear seat, deck tray..etc.... basically everything I need to upgrade my speakers, add the iPod interface is in there...

Sweet! This forum is chock full of excellent info! Thanks to all!

 

just be aware that the rear seats are very difficult and time consuming so make sure you plan ahead ie weather/lighting if you are out side. TAKE BREAKS if you like me you start man handling things that dont need to when you get frustrated thats how things get broken...

 

yea step away for 30 mins when u get stressed about it come back with a clear head.

 

I have lots of documentation and tips from the readers here to arm myself with.

From what I read, the hardest bolts to are the ones at the top of the backseat. I will have my 1/4' drive set with 6" extension ready. I will probably pick up one of those 10mm swivel sockets for that. I have a drop light, cleared out garage, etc. It will be hot, so I'll take my time.

Where is a good place to get that fabric to cover the plywood that I will mount my amps to? I just need the same type that stereo shops use.

 

my sub box and amp are mounted to plywood under the factory carpet and I just screwed right through it. but mine is mounted on the trunk floor

 

Is it possible to wire a 12V remote turn on lead for my three aftermarket amps from the stock amp setup? If so which wire should I tap into? I notice there is a remote turn on (red/yellow) going from the HU to the amp on the black 20 pin connector, and another 12V lead (white) running off the grey 14 pin connector. Which one should I use?

 

Do you have a volt meter or tester?

That yellow/black wire might just do the trick

 

the remote lead from the radio or stock amp is 9volt....u will need the peripheral electronics lvt2 to get it to trigger correctly.

 

remote turn on (red/yellow wire) going from the HU to the amp on the black 20 pin connector

remote turn on (white wire) running off the grey 14 pin connector

^^So I can basically use either wire for my remote turn on I am presuming? Should I tap in before or after the stock amp?

I have a Peripheral Electronics LVT2. However, I don't have the manual for it. There are four wires, this is how I think they hook up. Please correct me if I am wrong here, this is the last part I am foggy about.

1. Black Wire = Ground
2. Yellow Wire = 12V Wire that is connected to the 9V wire from the car
3. Blue Wire = Remote turn on that is wired to my aftermarket amplifiers
4. Green Wire = What is this one? I have no idea...Help!


And one more question, will this Peripheral Electronics LVT2 Allow me to hook up multiple amps of the same remote turn on wire? Here are the amps I have:

1. Alpine RMS 100 Watts X 4 Channels
2. Alpine RMS 100 Watts X 1 Channel
3. Pioneer RMS 70 Watts X 2 Channels

Basically a 640 Watt system

 

i believe its black negative..yellow constant. blue to the amps and green to the stock 9volt trigger.

 

So, are you saying that we need 4 ohm doors (coax) plus dash tweets would be 2 ohms? Id so what's the difference between the polks and 2 ohm infinitys?

Thanks

 

What about if you wanted to keep tweeters in the dash? What would you need to do to get the correct impedance? I've upgraded my door speakers to 4 Ohm Polks and the front tweeters are still connected. What would I need to do to retain the correct impedance for the door/dash bridge combination?

Please and thanks...

 

should have went with coaxils..components are a waste of money if you arent gonna amp them..

 

But what if we were to use Infinity Coax in doors, and tweets in the dash? is that 2 ohm, or polk coax in doors and tweets in the dash?

 

Very nice. I love the new db's compared to the older models. The sound is much more crisp and highs aren't so groggy.

 

first id see if the amp can support diff loads per channel....if it does then u have nothing to worry about. if it doesnt you'd need a capacitor or crossover to cleanup the sound and have a load balance. the lines are tied into each other somewhere in the dash where u cant see em.

 

But how come some ure using the factory amp w/ polks (4ohms), if the factory speakers are 2 ohm. I thought all we could use was the infinity's?

 

im lost i have all the speakers in my car replaced with beyma plus 2 more additions in the rear deck. so its 6 altogether pushing highs