Hello All,

This is my first post. I ordered a custom subwoofer box the molds to driver side space in my drunk off ebay. I believe it was the same one sold on here by a AcuraZine user uncald4. I was wondering how people might suggest mounting/bolting this to my car for anti-theft purposes. I have 08 TL with Navi.

Thank for looking

 

That box is WAY to small for that sub!

 

Agreed, waaaay too small. It will sound quicker, tighter, deeper, etc if you put it in a larger enclosure and it will require less power too.

A bolt from the inside of the enclosure to the car would be my guess for anti theft. If you ditch the enclosure, infinite baffle is a good way to make it hard to steal they would nearly have to steal the car to get the time needed to steal the sub in that configuration.

You could do a huge bandpass enclosure that has to be assembled in the trunk.

 

I used to have a box similar to that made by Uncald4; but it was larger than that one, and was sized for the JL, plus his carpeting matched more.

It was somewhat difficult to get it to secure, I just used screws and went straight into the carpet lining. If you wanted to bolt, bolt down the bottom. But if they want it, they will just rip the thing out since its made out of fiberglass

 

Uncald4 custom enclosure is .75 cubic feet.....I have a JL 10w6 and it sounds amazing.

 

just think how amazing it would sound in a properly sized box!

 

Pretty sure the one pictured is a 12"

It is in one. 10w6v2 needs .625 + driver or .693 gross. So at .75 it is actually just a tick oversized.

http://www.jlaudio.com/10w6v2-d4-car...-drivers-92120

 

The JLs especially sound sooooo much better in significantly larger than factory enclosures

 

minimum size recommendation from JL may not be optimum

 

Disagree. Strongly.
No, but optimum is. Which is what I posted.

 

Ever hear a W6 or W7 in a significantly larger enclosure or IB? Absolutely wonderful. None of the boominess or slowness. Just tight, rich bass. I was lucky enough to own a pair of 12W6s for 7 years in many different configurations.

What do you not like about these subs in larger boxes or IB? In my opinion it took them from good to nearly flawless.

 

Have not heard one IB but in oversized sealed I found them lacking a lot of control an kinda sloppy.

I've also run w6v2s and w7s for years in different set ups. I generally prefer the recommended sealed size to other configurations.

Side note, how do you like the PS8? I've been considering going to one and it looks like my DQXS may have just died, increasing the urgency to replace it.

 

I like the PS8 when it's not trying to blow my front stage by either removing the crossovers and running everything full range or the pops when it's under 65 degrees. Great processor, non existent noise floor. Tons of control. This is my first time using a parametric eq and being able to eq left and right separately. I believe TA will always be needed in a car but I can get it so close with the left/right eq, level matching, and polarity that very little TA is used. Instructions would be nice though. I've stumbled upon a few features by accident after a few months of ownership.

Other than trying to play my front stage full range and the pops, it's great. If I had another complaint it would be that you can't maximize the screen on the laptop. I have a large screen so it's not that bad but it might be frustrating for people with smaller screens. In fact, I was going to get a smaller laptop because that huge screen is always in the way but I don't think I would be able to see the graphics well enough.

To Arc's credit, it seems like only a handful of PS8s had the issue and they fix it for free. I believe the firmware updates might take care of the crossover issue. Mine only does it if I have the car in aux listening to the stereo and then start it. As long as I turn the ignition off first and then start the car it's fine. The first sign is when I have rear fill without the rear speakers hooked up lol. I don't know how my 110 tweeters have survived this long. Then again, a certain someone at ARC who uses them claims they're extremely tough.....when he admits he's using those tweeters lol.

You've got to hear the W6/7 series IB. There's actually MORE control over the cone than in a box since the air spring reduces control. They become really smooth and tight but dip low as well. That's one reason I'm going back to the JLs from the AE IB15s. The IB15s do so much so well and they will play well into the midrange not that you would want them too. The efficiency is great as well. But there's just something about the JLs when IB that I can't get out of my head. Maybe it's the warm sound of distortion lol but it's been bothering me since I got the IB15s even though I consider them nearly flawless. One sub comes up short on suspension though it doesn't have to move much due to it's cone area and the inductance control is second to none. One has one of the best suspensions and over 4" peak to peak travel but *might* lack in inductance control. The sound is similar to the Dyn 1200 which I was planning to get a trio but the IRS is flat out pulling some criminal stuff and I'm having to pay a lawyer so much along with what they choose to garnish that I can't afford anymore Dyn products for now.

I think it was the JLs that got me hooked on IB in the first place. There was such a transformation in the sound that I fell in love in the first minute. Other subs that I've had since the JLs in both sealed and IB didn't have such a dramatic change in sound. Even though the T/S parameters would say different, the 12W6 was flatter from 20hz to 70hz in the car but it did start to roll off around 70hz. I think I've gone way off topic here.