iPad mini install **pics**
08-26-2013, 09:29 AM
#122
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The nav sub-display (that goes in clock area) is controlled by some part of the nav system.
So AFAIK it won't work.
So AFAIK it won't work.
08-26-2013, 11:13 AM
#124
Race Director
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^Exactly. If it worked like that, I would be mounting my Nexus in the radio area like Anil did.
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EvilVirus (08-26-2013)
08-26-2013, 10:10 PM
#125
Did nobody read this:
I called Martin (the guy on eBay who makes the custom harnesses for non-nav to nav swaps). He said in order to get the sub display working you need to install the nav display and the DVD player in the trunk as it communicates with the sub display (so basically everything needed for the non-nav to nav swap). The non-nav clock has 4 wires going to it (connector can hold up to 5 wires) while the Nav sub display has 9 wires going to it (the connector can hold up to 10 wires). The nav display has another connector that is completely missing from the non-nav display (around 10-12 wires in this connector).
If anyone has tried this please chime in.
I don't see why the DVD player in the trunk would be needed to get the sub display working other than that the wires go to it first before going to the sub display, if this is the case (I haven't traced them yet). The HVAC buttons are the same in Nav & non-nav, the radio (with tape deck/cd player) have different part numbers but Martin said there is no difference between the two.
I may try to wire up the nav display directly to the sub display to see if I can get it working. The DVD player in the trunk would be needed to have the correct time on the clock along with the GPS unit (nav cars use the GPS to determine time while non-nav can be set with the 3 buttons in the clock). But you could just pull your negative battery cable at 1 o'clock and it would reset the time on the sub display to 1 o'clock.
The nav cars have two radio codes (one for the tape deck and one for the touch screen). If you only type in the code for the tape deck the sub display still works and the radio works fine (this leads me to believe that the sub display can be used without the DVD player in the trunk if wired directly to the nav display).
I will try some other things this week/weekend (my roommate just bought an 04 MT with Nav, so I can play with his car).
*still need to do this
I called Martin (the guy on eBay who makes the custom harnesses for non-nav to nav swaps). He said in order to get the sub display working you need to install the nav display and the DVD player in the trunk as it communicates with the sub display (so basically everything needed for the non-nav to nav swap). The non-nav clock has 4 wires going to it (connector can hold up to 5 wires) while the Nav sub display has 9 wires going to it (the connector can hold up to 10 wires). The nav display has another connector that is completely missing from the non-nav display (around 10-12 wires in this connector).
If anyone has tried this please chime in.
I don't see why the DVD player in the trunk would be needed to get the sub display working other than that the wires go to it first before going to the sub display, if this is the case (I haven't traced them yet). The HVAC buttons are the same in Nav & non-nav, the radio (with tape deck/cd player) have different part numbers but Martin said there is no difference between the two.
I may try to wire up the nav display directly to the sub display to see if I can get it working. The DVD player in the trunk would be needed to have the correct time on the clock along with the GPS unit (nav cars use the GPS to determine time while non-nav can be set with the 3 buttons in the clock). But you could just pull your negative battery cable at 1 o'clock and it would reset the time on the sub display to 1 o'clock.
The nav cars have two radio codes (one for the tape deck and one for the touch screen). If you only type in the code for the tape deck the sub display still works and the radio works fine (this leads me to believe that the sub display can be used without the DVD player in the trunk if wired directly to the nav display).
I will try some other things this week/weekend (my roommate just bought an 04 MT with Nav, so I can play with his car).
*still need to do this
08-27-2013, 08:41 AM
#128
Race Director
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Good work on both fronts!
If that's true about the sub display that totally changes the game.
If that's true about the sub display that totally changes the game.
08-27-2013, 12:39 PM
#129
Did nobody read this:
I called Martin (the guy on eBay who makes the custom harnesses for non-nav to nav swaps). He said in order to get the sub display working you need to install the nav display and the DVD player in the trunk as it communicates with the sub display (so basically everything needed for the non-nav to nav swap). The non-nav clock has 4 wires going to it (connector can hold up to 5 wires) while the Nav sub display has 9 wires going to it (the connector can hold up to 10 wires). The nav display has another connector that is completely missing from the non-nav display (around 10-12 wires in this connector).
If anyone has tried this please chime in.
I don't see why the DVD player in the trunk would be needed to get the sub display working other than that the wires go to it first before going to the sub display, if this is the case (I haven't traced them yet). The HVAC buttons are the same in Nav & non-nav, the radio (with tape deck/cd player) have different part numbers but Martin said there is no difference between the two.
I may try to wire up the nav display directly to the sub display to see if I can get it working. The DVD player in the trunk would be needed to have the correct time on the clock along with the GPS unit (nav cars use the GPS to determine time while non-nav can be set with the 3 buttons in the clock). But you could just pull your negative battery cable at 1 o'clock and it would reset the time on the sub display to 1 o'clock.
The nav cars have two radio codes (one for the tape deck and one for the touch screen). If you only type in the code for the tape deck the sub display still works and the radio works fine (this leads me to believe that the sub display can be used without the DVD player in the trunk if wired directly to the nav display).
I will try some other things this week/weekend (my roommate just bought an 04 MT with Nav, so I can play with his car).
*still need to do this
I called Martin (the guy on eBay who makes the custom harnesses for non-nav to nav swaps). He said in order to get the sub display working you need to install the nav display and the DVD player in the trunk as it communicates with the sub display (so basically everything needed for the non-nav to nav swap). The non-nav clock has 4 wires going to it (connector can hold up to 5 wires) while the Nav sub display has 9 wires going to it (the connector can hold up to 10 wires). The nav display has another connector that is completely missing from the non-nav display (around 10-12 wires in this connector).
If anyone has tried this please chime in.
I don't see why the DVD player in the trunk would be needed to get the sub display working other than that the wires go to it first before going to the sub display, if this is the case (I haven't traced them yet). The HVAC buttons are the same in Nav & non-nav, the radio (with tape deck/cd player) have different part numbers but Martin said there is no difference between the two.
I may try to wire up the nav display directly to the sub display to see if I can get it working. The DVD player in the trunk would be needed to have the correct time on the clock along with the GPS unit (nav cars use the GPS to determine time while non-nav can be set with the 3 buttons in the clock). But you could just pull your negative battery cable at 1 o'clock and it would reset the time on the sub display to 1 o'clock.
The nav cars have two radio codes (one for the tape deck and one for the touch screen). If you only type in the code for the tape deck the sub display still works and the radio works fine (this leads me to believe that the sub display can be used without the DVD player in the trunk if wired directly to the nav display).
I will try some other things this week/weekend (my roommate just bought an 04 MT with Nav, so I can play with his car).
*still need to do this
08-27-2013, 01:29 PM
#132
Race Director
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08-27-2013, 03:47 PM
#133
Yes the right hole is for an aux port. The left is a switch to change the aux input from the iPad to the aux port on the faceplate (because the USAspec only has 1 aux input). I don't see a way to put a usb that connects to the iPad and still be connected to the USAspec, you would need a reverse 30 pin splitter connected to the end of the lightning adapter (one side would connect to the USAspec via 30 pin and the other would connect to a 30pin to usb cable). This is the same issue with the aux port. If you try to use a splitter in reverse to have two inputs (the iPad aux and the external aux on the faceplate) you will have feedback interference and other issues. That's why I have a switch to change which input the USAspec is receiving.
As Martin mentioned the only way to get everything working correctly is to install the whole set up.
I am trying to bypass the DVD player (if the wiring goes to that before it goes to the sub display, I still need to trace the wires) to get the sub display working. I don't see the need for the DVD player as it controls the nav functions which wont be used as the iPad will be installed while the lower tape deck controls the radio (xm, fm/am, cd, tape). I will post an update on more info this week/weekend when I do some more research/trial & error.
08-27-2013, 04:00 PM
#134
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Great update buddy....
I think I got lucky with the sub display from Jerry since that is definitely out of my skill league.....
I was going to get the nav display but didnt place the order....
anyway, eager to see what you have planned
I think I got lucky with the sub display from Jerry since that is definitely out of my skill league.....
I was going to get the nav display but didnt place the order....
anyway, eager to see what you have planned
08-28-2013, 09:17 PM
#135
Seeing XXX's past installs and the pics on this thread, I am thinking he is not. So far all A's for efforts but nothing is giving me wood, yet. I've got an idea how to hopefully intergrate a mini in a TL dash. Have all the parts except the OEM Navi screen trim. Also not sure with my skill set if I can make it happen. But I will give it a whirl.
Again, cudos to those that have tried. And thank you for the ideas. Eventually one of us will come up with a way.
Again, cudos to those that have tried. And thank you for the ideas. Eventually one of us will come up with a way.
08-29-2013, 08:34 AM
#136
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In for results too 
08-31-2013, 02:41 PM
#139
Quick update:
I unplugged the DVD player from a Nav car and the subdisplay still receives powers and the radio still works (can listen to music and change station/mode). But the radio info is not shown, only the climate control info (AC, vent) and the clock is also shown. Once you plug in two of the 4 connectors (the 5th is for GPS) to the DVD player the radio info is shown again. I will be tracing these wires to see if I can bypass the DVD player.
I unplugged the DVD player from a Nav car and the subdisplay still receives powers and the radio still works (can listen to music and change station/mode). But the radio info is not shown, only the climate control info (AC, vent) and the clock is also shown. Once you plug in two of the 4 connectors (the 5th is for GPS) to the DVD player the radio info is shown again. I will be tracing these wires to see if I can bypass the DVD player.
08-31-2013, 04:55 PM
#140
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Good job man!
08-31-2013, 09:31 PM
#142
Did you know that plastic bezel has a color code?
I noticed you guys are hacking them up a bit more than what it takes for the N7 install and sanding them.
If you want to try to get an OEM color match you could try to get some paint that is:
NH525L Gun Metallic
In order to try to color match it.
You could then use something like this:
To spray the paint that was mixed, definitely use a flex agent first since you're spraying plastic if you want that stuff to adhere, something like bulldog.
An automotive paint shop might be able to match that color for you given then above color code.
Just thought I'd put it out there, since wrapping it is going to make it mis-match with the radio face, AC vents, cup-holder, etc.. and it sort of sticks out and doesn't look as good.
Also just fyi, if you have any deep scratch lines it'll show right through vinyl.
I noticed you guys are hacking them up a bit more than what it takes for the N7 install and sanding them.
If you want to try to get an OEM color match you could try to get some paint that is:
NH525L Gun Metallic
In order to try to color match it.
You could then use something like this:
To spray the paint that was mixed, definitely use a flex agent first since you're spraying plastic if you want that stuff to adhere, something like bulldog.
An automotive paint shop might be able to match that color for you given then above color code.
Just thought I'd put it out there, since wrapping it is going to make it mis-match with the radio face, AC vents, cup-holder, etc.. and it sort of sticks out and doesn't look as good.
Also just fyi, if you have any deep scratch lines it'll show right through vinyl.
Last edited by mzilvar; 08-31-2013 at 09:39 PM.
09-03-2013, 01:33 PM
#143
Did you know that plastic bezel has a color code?
I noticed you guys are hacking them up a bit more than what it takes for the N7 install and sanding them.
If you want to try to get an OEM color match you could try to get some paint that is:
NH525L Gun Metallic
In order to try to color match it.
You could then use something like this:
Amazon.com: Preval Preval Spray Gun: Home Improvement
To spray the paint that was mixed, definitely use a flex agent first since you're spraying plastic if you want that stuff to adhere, something like bulldog.
An automotive paint shop might be able to match that color for you given then above color code.
Just thought I'd put it out there, since wrapping it is going to make it mis-match with the radio face, AC vents, cup-holder, etc.. and it sort of sticks out and doesn't look as good.
Also just fyi, if you have any deep scratch lines it'll show right through vinyl.
I noticed you guys are hacking them up a bit more than what it takes for the N7 install and sanding them.
If you want to try to get an OEM color match you could try to get some paint that is:
NH525L Gun Metallic
In order to try to color match it.
You could then use something like this:
Amazon.com: Preval Preval Spray Gun: Home Improvement
To spray the paint that was mixed, definitely use a flex agent first since you're spraying plastic if you want that stuff to adhere, something like bulldog.
An automotive paint shop might be able to match that color for you given then above color code.
Just thought I'd put it out there, since wrapping it is going to make it mis-match with the radio face, AC vents, cup-holder, etc.. and it sort of sticks out and doesn't look as good.
Also just fyi, if you have any deep scratch lines it'll show right through vinyl.
09-03-2013, 01:56 PM
#144
Race Director
iTrader: (1)
Damn!
Anyone actually have the wiring diagram for the nav/HVAC/non-nav HVAC?
Anyone actually have the wiring diagram for the nav/HVAC/non-nav HVAC?
09-16-2013, 12:34 PM
#146
so for the bezel, did u cut it, sand it and paint it so that the camera and home button show?
Really want to try this, but I don't have much experience with stuff like this.
hopefully you can post more pics with explanations!
Really want to try this, but I don't have much experience with stuff like this.
hopefully you can post more pics with explanations!
09-16-2013, 04:46 PM
#147
Here are some pics showing the iPad mini unit installed to the tape deck. I made it so the iPad can easily be connected to a computer via a 30pin to USB cable. All that needs to be done is take out the upper vent/clock/subdisplay (which can easily be done with a butter knife). The bezel is plasti-dipped for temporary use.
The bezel was cut to show the full iPad screen, then the lower portion was sanded (to remove the lip, this is optional), the sides were sanded to match the flow going towards the screen. The home button and camera were drilled out. Bondo or some type of material is needed to fill in the gaps (between the iPad screen and the bezel) as the iPad does not sit flush against the bezel. I used flexible Bondo for bumpers.
The bezel was cut to show the full iPad screen, then the lower portion was sanded (to remove the lip, this is optional), the sides were sanded to match the flow going towards the screen. The home button and camera were drilled out. Bondo or some type of material is needed to fill in the gaps (between the iPad screen and the bezel) as the iPad does not sit flush against the bezel. I used flexible Bondo for bumpers.
09-16-2013, 10:34 PM
#149
takin care of Business in
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great work brother....
what are those 2 little holes for in the bottom?
what are those 2 little holes for in the bottom?
09-17-2013, 10:14 AM
#151
First off, I will be using the USAspec iPod adapter with the extended 30pin to lightning adapter to connect to the iPad along with a aux cable (headphone jack) connected to the iPad to play Pandora, Youtube, ect. (basically anything that isn't the stock Apple music app).
Yes the right hole is for an aux port. The left is a switch to change the aux input from the iPad to the aux port on the faceplate (because the USAspec only has 1 aux input). I don't see a way to put a usb that connects to the iPad and still be connected to the USAspec, you would need a reverse 30 pin splitter connected to the end of the lightning adapter (one side would connect to the USAspec via 30 pin and the other would connect to a 30pin to usb cable). This is the same issue with the aux port. If you try to use a splitter in reverse to have two inputs (the iPad aux and the external aux on the faceplate) you will have feedback interference and other issues. That's why I have a switch to change which input the USAspec is receiving.
Yes to get the clock working correctly you will need the DVD player and GPS unit as the clock is set based off of GPS which connects directly to the DVD player.
As Martin mentioned the only way to get everything working correctly is to install the whole set up.
I am trying to bypass the DVD player (if the wiring goes to that before it goes to the sub display, I still need to trace the wires) to get the sub display working. I don't see the need for the DVD player as it controls the nav functions which wont be used as the iPad will be installed while the lower tape deck controls the radio (xm, fm/am, cd, tape). I will post an update on more info this week/weekend when I do some more research/trial & error.
Yes the right hole is for an aux port. The left is a switch to change the aux input from the iPad to the aux port on the faceplate (because the USAspec only has 1 aux input). I don't see a way to put a usb that connects to the iPad and still be connected to the USAspec, you would need a reverse 30 pin splitter connected to the end of the lightning adapter (one side would connect to the USAspec via 30 pin and the other would connect to a 30pin to usb cable). This is the same issue with the aux port. If you try to use a splitter in reverse to have two inputs (the iPad aux and the external aux on the faceplate) you will have feedback interference and other issues. That's why I have a switch to change which input the USAspec is receiving.
Yes to get the clock working correctly you will need the DVD player and GPS unit as the clock is set based off of GPS which connects directly to the DVD player.
As Martin mentioned the only way to get everything working correctly is to install the whole set up.
I am trying to bypass the DVD player (if the wiring goes to that before it goes to the sub display, I still need to trace the wires) to get the sub display working. I don't see the need for the DVD player as it controls the nav functions which wont be used as the iPad will be installed while the lower tape deck controls the radio (xm, fm/am, cd, tape). I will post an update on more info this week/weekend when I do some more research/trial & error.
The black is quite a bit darker than the stock radio face, the picture makes the two colors appear similar compared to viewing in person.
10-11-2013, 01:54 AM
#152
so, its not as simple as just installing the iSimple and then plugging in the ipad to the iSimple with a 30 pin adapter?
ofcourse you've got to adjust some things to make everything fit. but is that it?
could this be done in a day or two?
ofcourse you've got to adjust some things to make everything fit. but is that it?
could this be done in a day or two?
10-27-2013, 01:43 PM
#156
I had pint of metallic paint mixed up to match the OEM. It is VERY VERY close. Just a hair 'greyer'. I am going to take it back and have it darkened. If anyone wants me to spray a piece for them let me know. I did buy a small can air sprayer to do this with. I have enough paint left for several pieces. I have just under $100 in the paint and sprayer. Whatever anyone thinks is fair to cover the paint cost is fine by me.
Pics attached.
Pics attached.
11-10-2013, 07:21 PM
#157
Advanced
I had pint of metallic paint mixed up to match the OEM. It is VERY VERY close. Just a hair 'greyer'. I am going to take it back and have it darkened. If anyone wants me to spray a piece for them let me know. I did buy a small can air sprayer to do this with. I have enough paint left for several pieces. I have just under $100 in the paint and sprayer. Whatever anyone thinks is fair to cover the paint cost is fine by me.
Pics attached.
Pics attached.
Also has anyone made any progress on using the navi sub display to show the hvac info with the non navi setup? would love to move the screens to a hidden location so I can have the cubbies back
01-08-2014, 08:15 PM
#159
Couple Ideas here for those looking to do this...
I bought this little bluetooth remote for my iPhone. Has a home button, play, pause, and volume. If you get this remote and mount it you wouldn't have to carve out the bezel for the home button, and no one really needs the camera. I tried it with my ipad, works perfectly, just like the home button (once to close apps, twice for switching, hold for siri)
Just a side note though, if using bluetooth on the ipad with isimple, they don't play we'll together. Works fine if connected via USB or aux though (I'd be using the USB if I do this).
Second idea is jailbreak. You can then delete the lock screen and use an app called activator to unlock and lock screen when connected and unplugged from power....then when you start the car it would go straight to home unlocked screen and shut off when car shuts off.
I bought this little bluetooth remote for my iPhone. Has a home button, play, pause, and volume. If you get this remote and mount it you wouldn't have to carve out the bezel for the home button, and no one really needs the camera. I tried it with my ipad, works perfectly, just like the home button (once to close apps, twice for switching, hold for siri)
Just a side note though, if using bluetooth on the ipad with isimple, they don't play we'll together. Works fine if connected via USB or aux though (I'd be using the USB if I do this).
Second idea is jailbreak. You can then delete the lock screen and use an app called activator to unlock and lock screen when connected and unplugged from power....then when you start the car it would go straight to home unlocked screen and shut off when car shuts off.
