I-058: playa4real's Peripheral PXAMG Install for a 3G Type S
#43
Yes! I've been reading threads about ipod integration for months now, but wasn't satified with the bugs that each one seemed to have. It appears that the Peripheral finally has it all. Now just waiting on the new harness to work with the HFL.
#45
Same connectors
OK - so I was a dope and didn't realize there was a nav-traffic XM unit in the trunk of my used '07 TLTS. I ordered the iSimple with standard Honda Y-cable and had a tough time figuring out why the PXAMG wouldn't work. They weren't joking when they said it is 'not compatible with nav-traffic.'
I was going to let the stuff gather dust for a few months waiting on this new harness. Then I looked at the pic's in this thread. Did anyone else notice it is the same 14 pin connector on the rear harness as the connectors on the PGHHD1 (radio-back harness currently stocked all over the place)?? At least from the pic's above it looks like you could repin a PGHHD1 and/or rewire it to match the elusive trunk harness.
If someone could get me a pin-out description from the trunk harness I would be willing to modify the PGHHD1 I have sitting in my basement so that I wouldn't have to wait two to three months to use my iSimple.
For example, viewing the MALE connector of the PGHHD1 from the back (side with wires sticking out) and with the retaining clip facing up, it has 2 wires [space] [empty slot] 3 wires on top, and 5 wires [space] 3 wires on the bottom. The wires from pins 1, 2, 4, and 11 are split and run to both the female 14 pin connector and the iSimple connector.
Either a detailed description of the wire colors and splits or some more revealing pictures of all three connectors would be much appreciated.
I was going to let the stuff gather dust for a few months waiting on this new harness. Then I looked at the pic's in this thread. Did anyone else notice it is the same 14 pin connector on the rear harness as the connectors on the PGHHD1 (radio-back harness currently stocked all over the place)?? At least from the pic's above it looks like you could repin a PGHHD1 and/or rewire it to match the elusive trunk harness.
If someone could get me a pin-out description from the trunk harness I would be willing to modify the PGHHD1 I have sitting in my basement so that I wouldn't have to wait two to three months to use my iSimple.
For example, viewing the MALE connector of the PGHHD1 from the back (side with wires sticking out) and with the retaining clip facing up, it has 2 wires [space] [empty slot] 3 wires on top, and 5 wires [space] 3 wires on the bottom. The wires from pins 1, 2, 4, and 11 are split and run to both the female 14 pin connector and the iSimple connector.
Either a detailed description of the wire colors and splits or some more revealing pictures of all three connectors would be much appreciated.
#46
Racer
iTrader: (1)
OK - so I was a dope and didn't realize there was a nav-traffic XM unit in the trunk of my used '07 TLTS. I ordered the iSimple with standard Honda Y-cable and had a tough time figuring out why the PXAMG wouldn't work. They weren't joking when they said it is 'not compatible with nav-traffic.'
I was going to let the stuff gather dust for a few months waiting on this new harness. Then I looked at the pic's in this thread. Did anyone else notice it is the same 14 pin connector on the rear harness as the connectors on the PGHHD1 (radio-back harness currently stocked all over the place)?? At least from the pic's above it looks like you could repin a PGHHD1 and/or rewire it to match the elusive trunk harness.
If someone could get me a pin-out description from the trunk harness I would be willing to modify the PGHHD1 I have sitting in my basement so that I wouldn't have to wait two to three months to use my iSimple.
For example, viewing the MALE connector of the PGHHD1 from the back (side with wires sticking out) and with the retaining clip facing up, it has 2 wires [space] [empty slot] 3 wires on top, and 5 wires [space] 3 wires on the bottom. The wires from pins 1, 2, 4, and 11 are split and run to both the female 14 pin connector and the iSimple connector.
Either a detailed description of the wire colors and splits or some more revealing pictures of all three connectors would be much appreciated.
I was going to let the stuff gather dust for a few months waiting on this new harness. Then I looked at the pic's in this thread. Did anyone else notice it is the same 14 pin connector on the rear harness as the connectors on the PGHHD1 (radio-back harness currently stocked all over the place)?? At least from the pic's above it looks like you could repin a PGHHD1 and/or rewire it to match the elusive trunk harness.
If someone could get me a pin-out description from the trunk harness I would be willing to modify the PGHHD1 I have sitting in my basement so that I wouldn't have to wait two to three months to use my iSimple.
For example, viewing the MALE connector of the PGHHD1 from the back (side with wires sticking out) and with the retaining clip facing up, it has 2 wires [space] [empty slot] 3 wires on top, and 5 wires [space] 3 wires on the bottom. The wires from pins 1, 2, 4, and 11 are split and run to both the female 14 pin connector and the iSimple connector.
Either a detailed description of the wire colors and splits or some more revealing pictures of all three connectors would be much appreciated.
#48
I may try to call Peripheral to ask for a pin-out. They will probably laugh at me...but I guess there is nothing to lose.
I realize it is a lot to ask of a brutha to detail / photograph the harness that you have already neatly tucked away in your trunk.... but it would help a number of people out greatly.
I will do a DYI write-up on it with full pic's for 'the common good' if it pans out....
#49
What can I say? It's all about me, me, ME !!
I may try to call Peripheral to ask for a pin-out. They will probably laugh at me...but I guess there is nothing to lose.
I realize it is a lot to ask of a brutha to detail / photograph the harness that you have already neatly tucked away in your trunk.... but it would help a number of people out greatly.
I will do a DYI write-up on it with full pic's for 'the common good' if it pans out....
I may try to call Peripheral to ask for a pin-out. They will probably laugh at me...but I guess there is nothing to lose.
I realize it is a lot to ask of a brutha to detail / photograph the harness that you have already neatly tucked away in your trunk.... but it would help a number of people out greatly.
I will do a DYI write-up on it with full pic's for 'the common good' if it pans out....
#50
camera is missing (i think my sis took it) so here are the colors of the wires using the same method as red fred. from the back of the connector left to right.
male connector:
top row: yellow, red, brown, brown, space, orange, pink, black/white, white, gray
bottom row: black, red/white, brown, brown, brown orange/black, pink/black, brown, white/black, gray/black
female connector:
top row: gray/red, white/red, black/white, pink/red, orange, space, brown, brown, red, yellow
bottom row: gray/blue, white/blue, brown, pink/blue, orange/black, brown, brown, brown, red/white, black
24 pin connector
top row: yellow, red, space, space, pink/red, pink, space space, white, gray, white/red, gray/red
bottom row: black, brown, space, space, pink/blue, pink/black, space, black/white, white/black, gray/black, white/blue, gray/blue
the wire colors that are bold are the ones that are going from the male to female connector..top row is respective to top row and bottom to bottom
male connector:
top row: yellow, red, brown, brown, space, orange, pink, black/white, white, gray
bottom row: black, red/white, brown, brown, brown orange/black, pink/black, brown, white/black, gray/black
female connector:
top row: gray/red, white/red, black/white, pink/red, orange, space, brown, brown, red, yellow
bottom row: gray/blue, white/blue, brown, pink/blue, orange/black, brown, brown, brown, red/white, black
24 pin connector
top row: yellow, red, space, space, pink/red, pink, space space, white, gray, white/red, gray/red
bottom row: black, brown, space, space, pink/blue, pink/black, space, black/white, white/black, gray/black, white/blue, gray/blue
the wire colors that are bold are the ones that are going from the male to female connector..top row is respective to top row and bottom to bottom
#52
Racer
iTrader: (1)
camera is missing (i think my sis took it) so here are the colors of the wires using the same method as red fred. from the back of the connector left to right.
male connector:
top row: yellow, red, brown, brown, space, orange, pink, black/white, white, gray
bottom row: black, red/white, brown, brown, brown orange/black, pink/black, brown, white/black, gray/black
female connector:
top row: gray/red, white/red, black/white, pink/red, orange, space, brown, brown, red, yellow
bottom row: gray/blue, white/blue, brown, pink/blue, orange/black, brown, brown, brown, red/white, black
24 pin connector
top row: yellow, red, space, space, pink/red, pink, space space, white, gray, white/red, gray/red
bottom row: black, brown, space, space, pink/blue, pink/black, space, black/white, white/black, gray/black, white/blue, gray/blue
the wire colors that are bold are the ones that are going from the male to female connector..top row is respective to top row and bottom to bottom
male connector:
top row: yellow, red, brown, brown, space, orange, pink, black/white, white, gray
bottom row: black, red/white, brown, brown, brown orange/black, pink/black, brown, white/black, gray/black
female connector:
top row: gray/red, white/red, black/white, pink/red, orange, space, brown, brown, red, yellow
bottom row: gray/blue, white/blue, brown, pink/blue, orange/black, brown, brown, brown, red/white, black
24 pin connector
top row: yellow, red, space, space, pink/red, pink, space space, white, gray, white/red, gray/red
bottom row: black, brown, space, space, pink/blue, pink/black, space, black/white, white/black, gray/black, white/blue, gray/blue
the wire colors that are bold are the ones that are going from the male to female connector..top row is respective to top row and bottom to bottom
#53
Are you going to get connectors? Where?
The only hard part in all this is getting the connectors (1 and 2 from Playa's first post).
If anyone knows where to buy these, I'd be willing to buy in bulk (if necessary) and then distribute them on the forum.
The only hard part in all this is getting the connectors (1 and 2 from Playa's first post).
If anyone knows where to buy these, I'd be willing to buy in bulk (if necessary) and then distribute them on the forum.
#55
I'm almost positive they are not the same. Type-S and 07-08 navi cars have different connectors. I also checked the schematics of the connectors in my electrical manual. The Y adapter Peripheral includes is for 04-06 xm units or non-navi 07-08 cars.
Getting the connectors is key. maybe peripheral can tell us the vendor they used for the connectors.
Getting the connectors is key. maybe peripheral can tell us the vendor they used for the connectors.
Last edited by zeppelin77; 01-27-2009 at 03:21 PM.
#56
I'm almost positive they are not the same. Type-S and 07-08 navi cars have different connectors. I also checked the schematics of the connectors in my electrical manual. The Y adapter Peripheral includes is for 04-06 xm units or non-navi 07-08 cars.
Getting the connectors is key. maybe peripheral can tell us the vendor they used for the connectors.
Getting the connectors is key. maybe peripheral can tell us the vendor they used for the connectors.
#57
since i dont know what the regular y harness connector looks like, maybe one of you can compare and see which wires are different. theres always the possibility that you may not need to connect all of the same wires (the missing wires are unnecessary to make it work - dont know if this is true just an idea)
as for the long ipod harness - i dunno if you can actually purchase that and im not sure if peripheral is willing to sell those. in any case my wire is just 2 of the ipod harnesses connected together so if you can rummage up another ipod harness then you could probably connect them yourself.
#58
Thank you for doing that Playa. I think you were referring to the BIG male plug which connects to the iSimple box and has 24 pin slots (not all used). I will try to make sense out of that info in a bit. When you said you don't think the Peripheral is going to work out do you mean you are going to take it out of your car? If so, I'll buy the harness from you / pay for shipping so I can reverse engineer the wiring. It would be a sh*tload easier with the harness in hand rather than pictures and descriptions.
Also - for those that might get squeemish - there are resistors wired into the harness. (a 120 ohm, a 6800 ohm and a 22,000 ohm ! ) and it will probably not be as simple as "plug wire 'A' into slot '1'.... unless the trunk harness uses very similar set-up. I don't expect anyone to cut open the heatshrink on their harness / read off the color codes on the resistors for the common good here so this project is probably dead in the water unless someone with some electronics background can get their hands on the actual prototype.
In the meanwhile, for the hell of it...here is more detailed pic's of the current PGHHD1 harness (radio back harness, not trunk harness for anyone jumping in late here):
MALE PLUG ......................../ ...........................WIRES ON MALE PLUG / .......................................FEMALE PLUG:
As you can see, it is the same connector as in Mug's pictures.
I have pic's and pin-out descriptions of the other connectors on the PGHHD1 as well but it won't do much good until someone can write up a detailed schematic on the trunk harness.
#59
Playa - I apologize. I just re-read your thread and obviously you DID list the three different plugs. My bad.:blindfold Thanks again for going through the trouble.
It is also obvious that you have a different set-up entirely that that pictured in Mug's post. I am guessing it is the difference between XM-NAVTraffic and XM-nonNavTraffic... I'll have to get off my lazy a$$ and pull the navtraffic unit in my trunk to confirm. Too damn cold out now.
It is also obvious that you have a different set-up entirely that that pictured in Mug's post. I am guessing it is the difference between XM-NAVTraffic and XM-nonNavTraffic... I'll have to get off my lazy a$$ and pull the navtraffic unit in my trunk to confirm. Too damn cold out now.
Last edited by red fred; 01-28-2009 at 06:29 PM.
#60
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Hey guys I think i found some cables that might work for in making one of these "Y" adapters. Its for an older Acura but the connectors look right.. http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.ph...479&quantity=1 looks like it has the 20 pin connectors.
Also check out peripheral connectors the comming soon subaru connector PGHSB1 it might work also with a bit of mods, but this way we can find a way of getting/finding the molded ends and go from there... as for the Y the guys that have the should find out if there is really resistors in the heat shrink area. I doubt it but cant be shure. Im going to order it and find out if its the same as factory ends, if they are then all i have to do is match the PIN out locations.
Also check out peripheral connectors the comming soon subaru connector PGHSB1 it might work also with a bit of mods, but this way we can find a way of getting/finding the molded ends and go from there... as for the Y the guys that have the should find out if there is really resistors in the heat shrink area. I doubt it but cant be shure. Im going to order it and find out if its the same as factory ends, if they are then all i have to do is match the PIN out locations.
Last edited by Sal's Type S; 01-29-2009 at 02:51 AM.
#61
Hey guys I think i found some cables that might work for in making one of these "Y" adapters. Its for an older Acura but the connectors look right.. http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.ph...479&quantity=1 looks like it has the 20 pin connectors.
Also check out peripheral connectors the comming soon subaru connector PGHSB1 it might work also with a bit of mods, but this way we can find a way of getting/finding the molded ends and go from there... as for the Y the guys that have the should find out if there is really resistors in the heat shrink area. I doubt it but cant be shure. Im going to order it and find out if its the same as factory ends, if they are then all i have to do is match the PIN out locations.
Also check out peripheral connectors the comming soon subaru connector PGHSB1 it might work also with a bit of mods, but this way we can find a way of getting/finding the molded ends and go from there... as for the Y the guys that have the should find out if there is really resistors in the heat shrink area. I doubt it but cant be shure. Im going to order it and find out if its the same as factory ends, if they are then all i have to do is match the PIN out locations.
#62
Racer
iTrader: (1)
I actually also ordered the USA Spec unit, the place that I ordered it from said it was the newer USASPEC PA15HON2Y model that is suposed to work with navi. I will also report back on that one. I also have the Y on the way. When that comes in hopefully the connectors are the same then i will configure the wires to playas diaghram and see what happens. whish me luck.
#63
You might want to take a look at this picture though before you start cutting wires. This is the current 32 pin connector on the PGHHD1 with the heat shrink removed:
Not the best picture in the world, but you can see there are three hidden connections right before the 32 pin connector. Take a look at the resistor between the black and brown wires in the center. The brown wire actually comes out of the 32 pin and is connected to the black wire right next to it by a 6800 ohm resistor and it terminates right there.
If there is a similar set-up on the trunk harness for the Peripheral, you will lose your mind trying to figure out why the wires dont match up. Also you just might fry something including your stock XM unit if you dont have the connections just right.
I'm not trying to be an a-hole and ruin your experiment. I just dont want to see you blow something up!! We wont know the full extent of the connections in there until someone removes the 200 feet of electrical tape from the prototype trunk harness and checks for other hidden connections / parts.
#64
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Thanks for the pic Red, Hey dont worry about it actually thanks for keeping an eye out. Is this the wire harness comes with the PGHHD1 unit? or what harness did you take appart. Hopefully Playa could take his harness apart like this and see what resistors and or diodes might be in the harness. Yes if these are the right connectors this to me is the most dificult part. The wireing is simple wonce somebody figures out the correct pin out locations. Damb Is this works out right im willing to build a couple my self and help out the fellow Aziners.....Once you know the right path for wires should only take like 15 min or less per harness. the connectors should be here by end of next week i'll keep you guys informed if they were the right ones.. I also did order the newer USA Spec, they told me that it was NAV compatable will se haw that works also and let you guys know also.
#65
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Sal - thanks for the info on that Y harness. very cool that you were able to track those connectors down. The connectors look right so I hope it works out for you.
You might want to take a look at this picture though before you start cutting wires. This is the current 32 pin connector on the PGHHD1 with the heat shrink removed:
Not the best picture in the world, but you can see there are three hidden connections right before the 32 pin connector. Take a look at the resistor between the black and brown wires in the center. The brown wire actually comes out of the 32 pin and is connected to the black wire right next to it by a 6800 ohm resistor and it terminates right there.
If there is a similar set-up on the trunk harness for the Peripheral, you will lose your mind trying to figure out why the wires dont match up. Also you just might fry something including your stock XM unit if you dont have the connections just right.
I'm not trying to be an a-hole and ruin your experiment. I just dont want to see you blow something up!! We wont know the full extent of the connections in there until someone removes the 200 feet of electrical tape from the prototype trunk harness and checks for other hidden connections / parts.
You might want to take a look at this picture though before you start cutting wires. This is the current 32 pin connector on the PGHHD1 with the heat shrink removed:
Not the best picture in the world, but you can see there are three hidden connections right before the 32 pin connector. Take a look at the resistor between the black and brown wires in the center. The brown wire actually comes out of the 32 pin and is connected to the black wire right next to it by a 6800 ohm resistor and it terminates right there.
If there is a similar set-up on the trunk harness for the Peripheral, you will lose your mind trying to figure out why the wires dont match up. Also you just might fry something including your stock XM unit if you dont have the connections just right.
I'm not trying to be an a-hole and ruin your experiment. I just dont want to see you blow something up!! We wont know the full extent of the connections in there until someone removes the 200 feet of electrical tape from the prototype trunk harness and checks for other hidden connections / parts.
#66
#67
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Ok thanks Red the connectors i ordered should be here on Monday hopefully they are the same. Either way its going to be a tight week have to go out to Connecticut on Thursday might not have enough time to test it out but from what it looks like the module end should be the same ase the other one. Just waiting for one of the peoples that have the working harness to see if they can check the resistance on some of the terminals. If one of them can check please let me know and i will tell what terminals to check for me, just want to make sure before i continue.
#68
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Ok for those of you who have the harness that works for the TL S if you could please remove your harness and check resistance values at the points I checked off. I'm pretty sure they are the same as the current harness just wanted to make sure. If you could check between 1(Yellow)and 2(Red), 6(Pnk)and 18(Pnk/Blk), 13(Blk)and 14(Brn). Got some harness connectors coming hopefully they are the same i could get my own harness together since the harness does not seem like its going into production any time soon. Thanks in advance guys...
#69
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Hey guys I think i found some cables that might work for in making one of these "Y" adapters. Its for an older Acura but the connectors look right.. http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.ph...479&quantity=1 looks like it has the 20 pin connectors.
Also check out peripheral connectors the coming soon subaru connector PGHSB1 it might work also with a bit of mods, but this way we can find a way of getting/finding the molded ends and go from there... as for the Y the guys that have the should find out if there is really resistors in the heat shrink area. I doubt it but cant be shure. Im going to order it and find out if its the same as factory ends, if they are then all i have to do is match the PIN out locations.
Also check out peripheral connectors the coming soon subaru connector PGHSB1 it might work also with a bit of mods, but this way we can find a way of getting/finding the molded ends and go from there... as for the Y the guys that have the should find out if there is really resistors in the heat shrink area. I doubt it but cant be shure. Im going to order it and find out if its the same as factory ends, if they are then all i have to do is match the PIN out locations.
#70
#72
More bad news. Per Tony at Peripheral now they are not sure that they will be able to manufacture the trunk harness for cars with NAV-Traffic. I will PM Playa4Real to see if I can 'rent' his for a day to reverse engineer.
#74
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Ok people I finally wired my unit it without the molded ends. What I did is take the regular harness and put heat shrink on the ends of the connectors and pushed them on the ends inside the XM unit and the 10 pin harness on the car. The only problem I have right now is NO XM, but I do have the nav traffic info. Right now im going to try a reset on the peripheral unit hopefully that does it. The only other thing is that I might be missing one of the resistors(took one of them out). Maybe some of the people that did get one of the harnesses can help out a bit. So far the only person that is willing to help out is voidtrance. All i need is for them to check out some pinout resistsnce or just unwrap the harness and verifi were each wire goes to its not that difficult.
#75
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Ok my XM is back. Was missing the resistor I took out (thought it was not necessary) so Guys the harness is the same going into the Peripheral unit do not remove any of the resistors from it. The only thing I don't loke is the way it switches from XM to Ipod. Thought i would be able to use XM1 for and XM2 for Ipod....
#76
Cruisin'
soo i also installed mine last night, 1. it took me forever! 2. i didnt install it in the trunk, i installed it in the HU. 3. i been searching every where and they said it doesnt work for the TL-S. 4. it worked for me from the HU, but i didnt connect the XM harness 5. i updated to the resent updates .36. 6. it nice listening to crisp clear music 7. for some reason the input doesnt stay in ipod, it keeps showing the XM station then comes back to ipod, BUT my music is still playing while it shows the XM station...is it weird? or it suppose to do that?
#78
Racer
iTrader: (1)
soo i also installed mine last night, 1. it took me forever! 2. i didnt install it in the trunk, i installed it in the HU. 3. i been searching every where and they said it doesnt work for the TL-S. 4. it worked for me from the HU, but i didnt connect the XM harness 5. i updated to the resent updates .36. 6. it nice listening to crisp clear music 7. for some reason the input doesnt stay in ipod, it keeps showing the XM station then comes back to ipod, BUT my music is still playing while it shows the XM station...is it weird? or it suppose to do that?
#79
Let me try to understand what you've done.
There are two connectors going into the TLS XM receiver: a 20 pin female and a 16 pin female. The original PXAMG harness consists of: a 32 pin female (goes into the PXAMG unit), a 14 pin female and a 14 pin male.
From playa's pictures, it looks like the PXAMG is only interested in the 20 pin female XM connector.
So, you:
1. Disconnected the 20 pin connector.
2. Took the original PXAMG harness. You don't touch the 32-pin connector that goes into the PXAMG unit at all.
3. You essentially make connections between the PXAMG harness, XM unit and the XM 20 pin connector that correlate with playa's harness ... using shielded wire? Any soldering involved?
Questions:
1) What do you mean by: "What I did is take the regular harness and put heat shrink on the ends of the connectors and pushed them on the ends inside the XM unit and the 10 pin harness on the car."
- I don't know of any 10 pin connector on the xm unit or harness.
- You put heat shrink over the individual pins or the entire connector? Can you explain this part.
- I'm sorry, I don't get this part. Obviously, since the PXAMG connectors are a different shape from the TLS XM connectors, you can't merely plug them in. So, you used heat shrink. But how did you make an electrical connection?
2) How did you know which pins from the PXAMG harness go with where? I can make a good guess by looking at the ETM schematics. So, is it just a matter of matching the pins: SYS ACC, BUS GND, R+, L+, R-, L-, etc?
3) You said you 'pushed' the wires into the xm unit, but how is it going to hold up over time? If you're driving along a bumpy road, is there a chance that the connections will get dislodged.
Thanks.
There are two connectors going into the TLS XM receiver: a 20 pin female and a 16 pin female. The original PXAMG harness consists of: a 32 pin female (goes into the PXAMG unit), a 14 pin female and a 14 pin male.
From playa's pictures, it looks like the PXAMG is only interested in the 20 pin female XM connector.
So, you:
1. Disconnected the 20 pin connector.
2. Took the original PXAMG harness. You don't touch the 32-pin connector that goes into the PXAMG unit at all.
3. You essentially make connections between the PXAMG harness, XM unit and the XM 20 pin connector that correlate with playa's harness ... using shielded wire? Any soldering involved?
Questions:
1) What do you mean by: "What I did is take the regular harness and put heat shrink on the ends of the connectors and pushed them on the ends inside the XM unit and the 10 pin harness on the car."
- I don't know of any 10 pin connector on the xm unit or harness.
- You put heat shrink over the individual pins or the entire connector? Can you explain this part.
- I'm sorry, I don't get this part. Obviously, since the PXAMG connectors are a different shape from the TLS XM connectors, you can't merely plug them in. So, you used heat shrink. But how did you make an electrical connection?
2) How did you know which pins from the PXAMG harness go with where? I can make a good guess by looking at the ETM schematics. So, is it just a matter of matching the pins: SYS ACC, BUS GND, R+, L+, R-, L-, etc?
3) You said you 'pushed' the wires into the xm unit, but how is it going to hold up over time? If you're driving along a bumpy road, is there a chance that the connections will get dislodged.
Thanks.
Ok people I finally wired my unit it without the molded ends. What I did is take the regular harness and put heat shrink on the ends of the connectors and pushed them on the ends inside the XM unit and the 10 pin harness on the car. The only problem I have right now is NO XM, but I do have the nav traffic info. Right now im going to try a reset on the peripheral unit hopefully that does it. The only other thing is that I might be missing one of the resistors(took one of them out). Maybe some of the people that did get one of the harnesses can help out a bit. So far the only person that is willing to help out is voidtrance. All i need is for them to check out some pinout resistsnce or just unwrap the harness and verifi were each wire goes to its not that difficult.
#80
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Let me try to understand what you've done.
There are two connectors going into the TLS XM receiver: a 20 pin female and a 16 pin female. The original PXAMG harness consists of: a 32 pin female (goes into the PXAMG unit), a 14 pin female and a 14 pin male.
From playa's pictures, it looks like the PXAMG is only interested in the 20 pin female XM connector.
So, you:
1. Disconnected the 20 pin connector.
2. Took the original PXAMG harness. You don't touch the 32-pin connector that goes into the PXAMG unit at all.
3. You essentially make connections between the PXAMG harness, XM unit and the XM 20 pin connector that correlate with playa's harness ... using shielded wire? Any soldering involved?
Questions:
1) What do you mean by: "What I did is take the regular harness and put heat shrink on the ends of the connectors and pushed them on the ends inside the XM unit and the 10 pin harness on the car."
- I don't know of any 10 pin connector on the xm unit or harness.
- You put heat shrink over the individual pins or the entire connector? Can you explain this part.
- I'm sorry, I don't get this part. Obviously, since the PXAMG connectors are a different shape from the TLS XM connectors, you can't merely plug them in. So, you used heat shrink. But how did you make an electrical connection?
2) How did you know which pins from the PXAMG harness go with where? I can make a good guess by looking at the ETM schematics. So, is it just a matter of matching the pins: SYS ACC, BUS GND, R+, L+, R-, L-, etc?
3) You said you 'pushed' the wires into the xm unit, but how is it going to hold up over time? If you're driving along a bumpy road, is there a chance that the connections will get dislodged.
Thanks.
There are two connectors going into the TLS XM receiver: a 20 pin female and a 16 pin female. The original PXAMG harness consists of: a 32 pin female (goes into the PXAMG unit), a 14 pin female and a 14 pin male.
From playa's pictures, it looks like the PXAMG is only interested in the 20 pin female XM connector.
So, you:
1. Disconnected the 20 pin connector.
2. Took the original PXAMG harness. You don't touch the 32-pin connector that goes into the PXAMG unit at all.
3. You essentially make connections between the PXAMG harness, XM unit and the XM 20 pin connector that correlate with playa's harness ... using shielded wire? Any soldering involved?
Questions:
1) What do you mean by: "What I did is take the regular harness and put heat shrink on the ends of the connectors and pushed them on the ends inside the XM unit and the 10 pin harness on the car."
- I don't know of any 10 pin connector on the xm unit or harness.
- You put heat shrink over the individual pins or the entire connector? Can you explain this part.
- I'm sorry, I don't get this part. Obviously, since the PXAMG connectors are a different shape from the TLS XM connectors, you can't merely plug them in. So, you used heat shrink. But how did you make an electrical connection?
2) How did you know which pins from the PXAMG harness go with where? I can make a good guess by looking at the ETM schematics. So, is it just a matter of matching the pins: SYS ACC, BUS GND, R+, L+, R-, L-, etc?
3) You said you 'pushed' the wires into the xm unit, but how is it going to hold up over time? If you're driving along a bumpy road, is there a chance that the connections will get dislodged.
Thanks.
Last edited by Sal's Type S; 02-26-2009 at 01:25 AM.