jda123

Assuming that a tweet with the mid-range in the pillar and the mid-bass in the door is a 10/10 (lets just assume), what would this mid-range and mid-bass setup be? Opinions? If it is a 6 or better, I am probably going to do it. Kicks aren't going to work for me.

I can put 200w each to them.

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

Interesting idea except wont the midbass be playing into the seat? I would do some custom kick's for that.

eggyhustles

Midbass will be firing right into the seat..bad idea

Put the midbass in the kick and vent it

jda123

Kicks are out for me. I will ruin them using the car every day, both sides. Been there, tried that, done that... and have some ruined kicks and 6.5s to show for it.

eggyhustles

Put an 8 in the door?

jda123

These 6.5s will give plenty of midbass, so that is not the issue... I was just wanting to try out a 6.5 midrange in a 3 way. I just did not know how much 80-300hz firing into the side of my ass would be deadened. I got a nice used set (I mostly wanted the tweets), so it cost me nothing to try, but did not want to waste my time.

One day, a lot of years back, I was heading home after getting wet and muddy and my polyglass 6.5s were blowing mud and water into my pants legs. Not good.

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

Man, thats gonna be alot of wires going through the door molex plug, are you sure all the wires will go through the molex plug

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

Sound wise, wont even be worth it.

And since kicks are out of the question for you i would say some out of box ideas might suffice.

jda123

I know that it is not ideal or else I would not have asked. I am in the area of compromise for functionality.

So here are my choices:

End of the Door as Drawn
Rear Deck
On a Shelf Collecting Dust

Particulars:
New door panels are $120 at a junkyard - so $240 if it really sucks to get new panels. I have the speakers, amp, etc. and grills. The passenger speaker will clear the seat 60%. The driver one is 5" from my hip and seat which will cover it 100%. I am looking at about 80-250hz (speck is 60-300hz) and can put up to 400w to them (which is too much, but just saying). The speakers are 165K2P... as if you had to ask.

Please vote.

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

I knew what kind of speakers they were. lol

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Why can't you do kicks like niebur3's??

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

Cause the magnets on those babies are huge!!!

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

So are my RK6's! I guess I didn't realize his kicks werent that feel. Bummer. I'd love to have some if they'd be 3.25" deep

jda123

I ruined a set of speakers in the kicks. They are VERY close to your feet and if you really use the car, then you can get them wet, muddy, etc. I am not doing kicks again unless in a "show" car or I move to Arizona or someplace where it is not very wet.

I have the midrange in the pillar in my other car, but these midrange are 6.5"... so probably too big for the pillar.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

deep* Damn you thumbs on an Iphone

Yeah, that's true. I didn't think about moisture, etc. I wonder how far the pillar would come out with 6.5" in there hahah. I guess you could throw them in there almost flush against the pillar (roughly 2.5-3" for most) and then vent the pillar down or up to get more volume and make it like an enclosure. Who knows though

eggyhustles

kick would've been so ideal, dude. Rear deck would work if you have the processing power.

Neel

If you are dead set on the idea of putting midbass drivers in the doors, instead of putting them further back where you are thinking I would fab up an enclosure right where the pocket is in the door. This way the two drivers are closer together and it will not fire into your seat which ultimately will decrease amplitude / increase resonance / and ultimately increase localization to driver. You always want to have your drivers furthest away from you and as equidistant as possible in a car. Remember the way humans localize sound is via interaural time difference and interaural level difference. Understanding these things are key to good imaging.

Here is a link that will help you understand more about proper imaging.

http://usdaudio.com/tutorials/imaging.php

However if installed correctly and if you have the correct amount of processing power there is no reason why it will not work great. the key to this working is going be building a solid non resonant baffle for the drivers as well as properly deadening the door with various materials.

Kick panels are really the way to go, an air saw will help you get clearance for larger motors and if you are concerned about damaging a driver by stepping on it ... well that's what GRILL'S are for.

jda123

Does anybody make waterproof grills?

eggyhustles

Regular grill + speaker cloth on top of it should suffice.

jda123

Even though I knew that this might not be very good, I went ahead and installed the KBE set into the end of the doors. I used the crossover that came with the set since I don't have a full processor for this car (using the DC1000.4 to process the MR and tweets)... so it is like 60-300hz. I put 150W to them.

I would give this a 8.5 out of 10 for sound. I would give the grills a 0 out of 10 for looks. The install gets a 2.5 out of 10 and will get redone - I am a terrible fabricator. I need to mount these better to the metal and get new grills, but I will be quite happy

Overall, I would do this again if I could keep the frequency low. I am more disappointed with the mid range in the doors where my leg blocks the sound when my knee is not up. I will post a pic of the re-install sometime next week. For now, here is how much exposure the 6.5 gets from my viewpoint in the drivers seat:



FYI - you can easily get 2 sets of wire into the doors through the molex connector. There are vacant spots on the top and the bottom.

hp1kw

Dang, I was going to suggest using the stock 6.5" opening for midbass, as that is easily localized. Then maybe finding a place for a 3" midrange and the tweeter. But since its done, yeah, lose the grills. hehe. But I could never do fab like that so, nice!