Help: SQ Car Audio Advices and Tips Needed Please
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 1
From: San Jose, CA
Help: SQ Car Audio Advices and Tips Needed Please
Hi fellow Acuraziners!
This is my first thread post. Been on this forum reading up and researching for quite some time now. Love the wealth of knowledge on here!
To cut to the chase, I want opinions, tips, reviews, on how to make my front stage sound *better. I have invested many hours and money into my system in my TL, but have not yet been satisfied. It sounds pretty good, but I know it's supposed to sound a lot better in terms of sound stage, clarity, balance, and clearer vocals.
My set up right now:
Audiocontrol LC7
Front stage: Rainbow Profi Vanadium 2-way (passive)
Somewhat dynammated half the door (poorly done).
Rear: Precision Power PPI 356CS
No dymamat on rear deck.
Sub: Image Dynamics 12" IDQ sealed
Amps: Diamond Audio D6 700.4 (115 watts each)
Arc Audio FD 1200.1 for sub
The front stage is what I'm really focusing on to make sound better*. Every speaker set I had... the mids don't seem to come out and sound somewhat muffled. Which then makes the highs louder and unbalanced in overall sound. My fronts have been through: ID ctx, Diamond hexs, Precision Power PPI (used for rears now).
Midwoofers and tweets are mounted in factory locations using signals from factory wires into--> Monster speaker wires. Yes, crossovers are up front. Yes, I'm using a 3/4" spacer.
Better means:
1) Bring out midrange more.
2) Processing or EQ of some type to have better control.
Some units I'm looking at:
1) Add one of these Audiocontrol trunk EQ.
http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/5248...qualizers.html
The EQL (2 inputs only) will be used for fronts only. If going for EQS (6 inputs and out), I will be using it for all 6 channels. Feeling as if it's not necessary because at this point I just want to focus on the front sound.
2) Switch to RF 360.2
3) Save money by getting EQ. Something like:
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-1294-eq1...crossover.aspx
Questions:
1) Anyone have experience or comparisons to the EQ/processors mentioned? Suggestions? Feedback?
2) Would getting these increase overall sound quality of my system? Am I even going into the right direction?
3) Would running all new quality speaker wires give me better, clearer sound? Instead of tapping into factory and crimping/soldering them to Monster speaker wires?
4) Is going active even possible with my set up? What are the things I need to buy in order to go active in the front?
At this point, I am on a budget (college student with paid internship) but want my front speakers to sound how they really should. I've heard rainbows in other people's cars and it sounds much better than mines.
And Yes, I will be sealing the doors with good, proper dynamat soon to make up for the bad job already done. It's the best cost-effective enhancement to my front sound right now.
Some have told me to use the rear signals for the FRONTS. I have not tried this yet. Any comments on this? And how will I be able to do this?
Very open to any opinions, feedback, tips on which direction to go, look into, or try. I will do most of the labor by myself or with friends. Photos will also be available upon request.
Thanks for reading my long, unorganized thread.
This is my first thread post. Been on this forum reading up and researching for quite some time now. Love the wealth of knowledge on here!
To cut to the chase, I want opinions, tips, reviews, on how to make my front stage sound *better. I have invested many hours and money into my system in my TL, but have not yet been satisfied. It sounds pretty good, but I know it's supposed to sound a lot better in terms of sound stage, clarity, balance, and clearer vocals.
My set up right now:
Audiocontrol LC7
Front stage: Rainbow Profi Vanadium 2-way (passive)
Somewhat dynammated half the door (poorly done).
Rear: Precision Power PPI 356CS
No dymamat on rear deck.
Sub: Image Dynamics 12" IDQ sealed
Amps: Diamond Audio D6 700.4 (115 watts each)
Arc Audio FD 1200.1 for sub
The front stage is what I'm really focusing on to make sound better*. Every speaker set I had... the mids don't seem to come out and sound somewhat muffled. Which then makes the highs louder and unbalanced in overall sound. My fronts have been through: ID ctx, Diamond hexs, Precision Power PPI (used for rears now).
Midwoofers and tweets are mounted in factory locations using signals from factory wires into--> Monster speaker wires. Yes, crossovers are up front. Yes, I'm using a 3/4" spacer.
Better means:
1) Bring out midrange more.
2) Processing or EQ of some type to have better control.
Some units I'm looking at:
1) Add one of these Audiocontrol trunk EQ.
http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/5248...qualizers.html
The EQL (2 inputs only) will be used for fronts only. If going for EQS (6 inputs and out), I will be using it for all 6 channels. Feeling as if it's not necessary because at this point I just want to focus on the front sound.
2) Switch to RF 360.2
3) Save money by getting EQ. Something like:
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-1294-eq1...crossover.aspx
Questions:
1) Anyone have experience or comparisons to the EQ/processors mentioned? Suggestions? Feedback?
2) Would getting these increase overall sound quality of my system? Am I even going into the right direction?
3) Would running all new quality speaker wires give me better, clearer sound? Instead of tapping into factory and crimping/soldering them to Monster speaker wires?
4) Is going active even possible with my set up? What are the things I need to buy in order to go active in the front?
At this point, I am on a budget (college student with paid internship) but want my front speakers to sound how they really should. I've heard rainbows in other people's cars and it sounds much better than mines.
And Yes, I will be sealing the doors with good, proper dynamat soon to make up for the bad job already done. It's the best cost-effective enhancement to my front sound right now.
Some have told me to use the rear signals for the FRONTS. I have not tried this yet. Any comments on this? And how will I be able to do this?
Very open to any opinions, feedback, tips on which direction to go, look into, or try. I will do most of the labor by myself or with friends. Photos will also be available upon request.
Thanks for reading my long, unorganized thread.
Hi fellow Acuraziners!
This is my first thread post. Been on this forum reading up and researching for quite some time now. Love the wealth of knowledge on here!
To cut to the chase, I want opinions, tips, reviews, on how to make my front stage sound *better. I have invested many hours and money into my system in my TL, but have not yet been satisfied. It sounds pretty good, but I know it's supposed to sound a lot better in terms of sound stage, clarity, balance, and clearer vocals.
My set up right now:
Audiocontrol LC7
Front stage: Rainbow Profi Vanadium 2-way (passive)
Somewhat dynammated half the door (poorly done).
Rear: Precision Power PPI 356CS
No dymamat on rear deck.
Sub: Image Dynamics 12" IDQ sealed
Amps: Diamond Audio D6 700.4 (115 watts each)
Arc Audio FD 1200.1 for sub
The front stage is what I'm really focusing on to make sound better*. Every speaker set I had... the mids don't seem to come out and sound somewhat muffled. Which then makes the highs louder and unbalanced in overall sound. My fronts have been through: ID ctx, Diamond hexs, Precision Power PPI (used for rears now).
A few problems I see right away is that you're using passives and you really haven't deadened and sealed the doors. Both of those will take away a lot of sound.
Another thought is to get rid of/sell the rears. Keep your soundstage up front. Unless you're listening to 5.1 channel material or something...not a real point unless you just like having sound come from all around you. I can't pinpoint my tweeters or anything in front of me like that....but I can tell there's a damn band in front of me and the bass is coming from everywhere...like it should.
Midwoofers and tweets are mounted in factory locations using signals from factory wires into--> Monster speaker wires. Yes, crossovers are up front. Yes, I'm using a 3/4" spacer.
Do you know if you're using the pre-amp signal or post-amp signal?? Monster speaker wire......is just speaker wire but pricey as hell. What gauge is it, that's the important thing.
Better means:
1) Bring out midrange more. Biggest factors here are deadening/sealing door and more power!
2) Processing or EQ of some type to have better control. Definitely on the right track to get rid of the passive x-overs but get the doors deadened and sealed off first, make sure you have the right amount of power, then look towards tuning.
Some units I'm looking at:
1) Add one of these Audiocontrol trunk EQ.
http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/5248...qualizers.html
The EQL (2 inputs only) will be used for fronts only. If going for EQS (6 inputs and out), I will be using it for all 6 channels. Feeling as if it's not necessary because at this point I just want to focus on the front sound.
2) Switch to RF 360.2 I vote this b/c it's cheap and I love mine. It does everything you'd ever need
3) Save money by getting EQ. Something like:
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-1294-eq1...crossover.aspx
Questions:
1) Anyone have experience or comparisons to the EQ/processors mentioned? Suggestions? Feedback?
Yup, see sig. Love the 3sixty.2 and you can pick them up for $200-250. Full processing...can't ask for more.
2) Would getting these increase overall sound quality of my system? Am I even going into the right direction?
Yes and yes. But, like I said, get the install part squared away first. You can process and tune the hell out of your system but you can't fix a shitty install!
3) Would running all new quality speaker wires give me better, clearer sound? Instead of tapping into factory and crimping/soldering them to Monster speaker wires?
Depends of what gauge wire you have now. You have to tap into the factory wiring at some point
4) Is going active even possible with my set up? What are the things I need to buy in order to go active in the front?
No. You're amp has 4 channels, but the crossovers on the amp make it not capable to go active. Options:
Buy a processor or buy a different amp. The MB Quart Q-series is cheap and will do active and rated power.
At this point, I am on a budget (college student with paid internship) but want my front speakers to sound how they really should. I've heard rainbows in other people's cars and it sounds much better than mines.
Me too...NO EXCUSES! lol just kidding. Rainbow makes quality speakers and I'm sure they can sound great with the proper install and tuning.
And Yes, I will be sealing the doors with good, proper dynamat soon to make up for the bad job already done. It's the best cost-effective enhancement to my front sound right now.
You got it. I'd look into either: Sound Deadener Showdown, Second Skin, Dynamat. Also, just deadening the doors is half the job. You need to seal them up and that kind of product can be found by the first 2 companies.
Some have told me to use the rear signals for the FRONTS. I have not tried this yet. Any comments on this? And how will I be able to do this?
I have no idea what that means or why you would want to do that. They might mean bridging the amp. In that case, that's what you'd want to do if you wanted to get rid of the rears and still use the passive x-overs supplied.
Very open to any opinions, feedback, tips on which direction to go, look into, or try. I will do most of the labor by myself or with friends. Photos will also be available upon request.
Thanks for reading my long, unorganized thread.
This is my first thread post. Been on this forum reading up and researching for quite some time now. Love the wealth of knowledge on here!
To cut to the chase, I want opinions, tips, reviews, on how to make my front stage sound *better. I have invested many hours and money into my system in my TL, but have not yet been satisfied. It sounds pretty good, but I know it's supposed to sound a lot better in terms of sound stage, clarity, balance, and clearer vocals.
My set up right now:
Audiocontrol LC7
Front stage: Rainbow Profi Vanadium 2-way (passive)
Somewhat dynammated half the door (poorly done).
Rear: Precision Power PPI 356CS
No dymamat on rear deck.
Sub: Image Dynamics 12" IDQ sealed
Amps: Diamond Audio D6 700.4 (115 watts each)
Arc Audio FD 1200.1 for sub
The front stage is what I'm really focusing on to make sound better*. Every speaker set I had... the mids don't seem to come out and sound somewhat muffled. Which then makes the highs louder and unbalanced in overall sound. My fronts have been through: ID ctx, Diamond hexs, Precision Power PPI (used for rears now).
A few problems I see right away is that you're using passives and you really haven't deadened and sealed the doors. Both of those will take away a lot of sound.
Another thought is to get rid of/sell the rears. Keep your soundstage up front. Unless you're listening to 5.1 channel material or something...not a real point unless you just like having sound come from all around you. I can't pinpoint my tweeters or anything in front of me like that....but I can tell there's a damn band in front of me and the bass is coming from everywhere...like it should.
Midwoofers and tweets are mounted in factory locations using signals from factory wires into--> Monster speaker wires. Yes, crossovers are up front. Yes, I'm using a 3/4" spacer.
Do you know if you're using the pre-amp signal or post-amp signal?? Monster speaker wire......is just speaker wire but pricey as hell. What gauge is it, that's the important thing.
Better means:
1) Bring out midrange more. Biggest factors here are deadening/sealing door and more power!
2) Processing or EQ of some type to have better control. Definitely on the right track to get rid of the passive x-overs but get the doors deadened and sealed off first, make sure you have the right amount of power, then look towards tuning.
Some units I'm looking at:
1) Add one of these Audiocontrol trunk EQ.
http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/5248...qualizers.html
The EQL (2 inputs only) will be used for fronts only. If going for EQS (6 inputs and out), I will be using it for all 6 channels. Feeling as if it's not necessary because at this point I just want to focus on the front sound.
2) Switch to RF 360.2 I vote this b/c it's cheap and I love mine. It does everything you'd ever need
3) Save money by getting EQ. Something like:
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-1294-eq1...crossover.aspx
Questions:
1) Anyone have experience or comparisons to the EQ/processors mentioned? Suggestions? Feedback?
Yup, see sig. Love the 3sixty.2 and you can pick them up for $200-250. Full processing...can't ask for more.
2) Would getting these increase overall sound quality of my system? Am I even going into the right direction?
Yes and yes. But, like I said, get the install part squared away first. You can process and tune the hell out of your system but you can't fix a shitty install!
3) Would running all new quality speaker wires give me better, clearer sound? Instead of tapping into factory and crimping/soldering them to Monster speaker wires?
Depends of what gauge wire you have now. You have to tap into the factory wiring at some point
4) Is going active even possible with my set up? What are the things I need to buy in order to go active in the front?
No. You're amp has 4 channels, but the crossovers on the amp make it not capable to go active. Options:
Buy a processor or buy a different amp. The MB Quart Q-series is cheap and will do active and rated power.
At this point, I am on a budget (college student with paid internship) but want my front speakers to sound how they really should. I've heard rainbows in other people's cars and it sounds much better than mines.
Me too...NO EXCUSES! lol just kidding. Rainbow makes quality speakers and I'm sure they can sound great with the proper install and tuning.
And Yes, I will be sealing the doors with good, proper dynamat soon to make up for the bad job already done. It's the best cost-effective enhancement to my front sound right now.
You got it. I'd look into either: Sound Deadener Showdown, Second Skin, Dynamat. Also, just deadening the doors is half the job. You need to seal them up and that kind of product can be found by the first 2 companies.
Some have told me to use the rear signals for the FRONTS. I have not tried this yet. Any comments on this? And how will I be able to do this?
I have no idea what that means or why you would want to do that. They might mean bridging the amp. In that case, that's what you'd want to do if you wanted to get rid of the rears and still use the passive x-overs supplied.
Very open to any opinions, feedback, tips on which direction to go, look into, or try. I will do most of the labor by myself or with friends. Photos will also be available upon request.
Thanks for reading my long, unorganized thread.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 1
From: San Jose, CA
Thank you so much Trunk Monkey for going over all my questions and concerns I have about my system.
You definitely gave me many things to think about. Definitely going to think about getting the RF 360. I was going to get an eq by Audiocontrol, but I guess the RF 360.2 does it all.
I will dynamat the door within the next couple weeks.
What kind of seal do you recommend? And are there any good pictures of how a real dynammated+sealed door is supposed to look like? Maybe a DIY instruction guide?
You definitely gave me many things to think about. Definitely going to think about getting the RF 360. I was going to get an eq by Audiocontrol, but I guess the RF 360.2 does it all.
I will dynamat the door within the next couple weeks.
What kind of seal do you recommend? And are there any good pictures of how a real dynammated+sealed door is supposed to look like? Maybe a DIY instruction guide?
Start with location. Move them if you can and try to listen in different locations. Try to accomplish all you can with placement and process it from there for the finishing touch.
I really don't like separating mids from tweets as far as the stock location in this car. If you MUST keep the tweets there, try putting one of the mid drivers out of phase. A lot of times that can give a more focused center image opposed to the side biased one you are likely experiencing.
A processor like the 360 will only really be useful if you go after the amp. The preamp signal is flat and fullrange (for the fronts, at least). If doing anything preamp, look at a line driver like an Audio Control Overdrive (2 ch) or Marix (6 ch). From there, I'd do one of the myriad of processors out there that let you adjust acoustically opposed to electrically (eq to the car, not the signal going into the amp, getting it flat is a start, but if you have a null at 500Hz from a console reflection you need to be able to adjust for that). There are many. Pick one. Audiocontrol, DSP-6, MS-8, BitOne, et al.
Also, if you don't have a reference system, get one. It is hard to get a car to sound "right" if you don't know what "right" is. And I don't mean a buddy's car, or a cheap home rig. Get a nice set of monitors or nice headphones in a pinch and get a feel of what you should be listening for in the car.
I really don't like separating mids from tweets as far as the stock location in this car. If you MUST keep the tweets there, try putting one of the mid drivers out of phase. A lot of times that can give a more focused center image opposed to the side biased one you are likely experiencing.
A processor like the 360 will only really be useful if you go after the amp. The preamp signal is flat and fullrange (for the fronts, at least). If doing anything preamp, look at a line driver like an Audio Control Overdrive (2 ch) or Marix (6 ch). From there, I'd do one of the myriad of processors out there that let you adjust acoustically opposed to electrically (eq to the car, not the signal going into the amp, getting it flat is a start, but if you have a null at 500Hz from a console reflection you need to be able to adjust for that). There are many. Pick one. Audiocontrol, DSP-6, MS-8, BitOne, et al.
Also, if you don't have a reference system, get one. It is hard to get a car to sound "right" if you don't know what "right" is. And I don't mean a buddy's car, or a cheap home rig. Get a nice set of monitors or nice headphones in a pinch and get a feel of what you should be listening for in the car.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 293
Likes: 14
From: Redondo Beach, Ca.
Good advice from the Monkey...
Let me second the install part. You need to get your doors sealed to the point that the reflected back waves don't interfere with the desired front wave. The door doesn't have to be an air-tight seal; that's impossible, but you need to deaden that reflected back wave. You also need to keep your door's vibrations from distorting the desired sound. Deaden the outer and inner metal skins. Also make sure that your speaker mounting is solid; did you use a baffle? Midrange is heavily dependent on install.
Good luck
Let me second the install part. You need to get your doors sealed to the point that the reflected back waves don't interfere with the desired front wave. The door doesn't have to be an air-tight seal; that's impossible, but you need to deaden that reflected back wave. You also need to keep your door's vibrations from distorting the desired sound. Deaden the outer and inner metal skins. Also make sure that your speaker mounting is solid; did you use a baffle? Midrange is heavily dependent on install.
Good luck
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 1
From: San Jose, CA
Thanks DiamondJoeQuimby. At this point I am keeping them in the stock location.
I don't have a high end reference system at home. Just Klipsch speakers on a nice sound card. I think it sounds much better than my car (probably because it's not moving and it's a closed room).
I will take pictures of my install and you guys can flame/laugh at the mistakes.
But please after the laughs and headshaking, please tell me what I should correct.
Thanks!
I don't have a high end reference system at home. Just Klipsch speakers on a nice sound card. I think it sounds much better than my car (probably because it's not moving and it's a closed room).
I will take pictures of my install and you guys can flame/laugh at the mistakes.
But please after the laughs and headshaking, please tell me what I should correct.
Thanks!
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