Help building a sound quality focused system
08-26-2009, 09:44 PM
#1
7th Gear
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Help building a sound quality focused system
I have a bunch of questions I hope you guys can help me with.
What I already own:
Infinity Kappa Perfect Components 6.5
Infinity Kappa Perfect 3 way 6x9's (These don't fit without mod of course)
Rockford Fosgate 400a4 500 or so rms
I am not appose to buying other stuff etc. but i would like to use what i can.
Goal:
I use my car for my professional job every day and want to build a amazing sounding system that you can hardly tell is there. I would prefer to stay away from even under the surface modding unless its minimally invasive.
I want to retain all the channels so that A-dvd's still sound right. My first thought is my components should go in my rear deck this will give room for easy install lots of room for crossovers and places to hide the tweeters without damaging more visibly areas upfront. I dont think i will use the 6x9's even though they rock.
So here come the questions.
what kind of amp to buy or can i use the one i have?
how do i tie the amp into the head unit, I have Navi. ?
what 3.5's clean sounding and reasonable?
What are some Clean sounding 6.5 speakers for the doors that are reasonable.
what can i do to replace the factory sub? and how should i power it. should i drop in a 10'' sub in its place?
hopefully your guidence will give me some new good questions to ask.
Thanks everyone!
What I already own:
Infinity Kappa Perfect Components 6.5
Infinity Kappa Perfect 3 way 6x9's (These don't fit without mod of course)
Rockford Fosgate 400a4 500 or so rms
I am not appose to buying other stuff etc. but i would like to use what i can.
Goal:
I use my car for my professional job every day and want to build a amazing sounding system that you can hardly tell is there. I would prefer to stay away from even under the surface modding unless its minimally invasive.
I want to retain all the channels so that A-dvd's still sound right. My first thought is my components should go in my rear deck this will give room for easy install lots of room for crossovers and places to hide the tweeters without damaging more visibly areas upfront. I dont think i will use the 6x9's even though they rock.
So here come the questions.
what kind of amp to buy or can i use the one i have?
how do i tie the amp into the head unit, I have Navi. ?
what 3.5's clean sounding and reasonable?
What are some Clean sounding 6.5 speakers for the doors that are reasonable.
what can i do to replace the factory sub? and how should i power it. should i drop in a 10'' sub in its place?
hopefully your guidence will give me some new good questions to ask.
Thanks everyone!
08-27-2009, 05:43 AM
#4
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08-27-2009, 05:54 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
What is your budget? That will determine everything else. I would not recommend a specific speaker without knowing how much you want to spend. There are plenty of them out there at different price ranges. Same for amps
Here are the basics. Go with 6.5 components up front, 6.5 coaxials in the back and 3.5 center. A drop in sub in the existing location will sound bad. You want to get a 10 or 12 in a box in the trunk.
IMO dump the infinitys
You can keep the stock headunit. it is very good and several people have won sound SQ awards with it.
Here are the basics. Go with 6.5 components up front, 6.5 coaxials in the back and 3.5 center. A drop in sub in the existing location will sound bad. You want to get a 10 or 12 in a box in the trunk.
IMO dump the infinitys
You can keep the stock headunit. it is very good and several people have won sound SQ awards with it.
08-27-2009, 07:25 AM
#6
Burning Brakes
BTW,
Don't let Jason get to you. He's the forum jester around here but he does know his stuff.
Jason,
Get off the internet and get back to finishing your Year Old "System in the Works"
I'll have to drive out your way to hear it if it ever gets done.
Don't let Jason get to you. He's the forum jester around here but he does know his stuff.
Jason,
Get off the internet and get back to finishing your Year Old "System in the Works"
I'll have to drive out your way to hear it if it ever gets done.
08-27-2009, 12:17 PM
#7
Cracking toast, Gromit!
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Good luck on your journey - I'm about 4 weeks in front of you. The Boston Acoustic S35 is a common drop-in for the center channel. Most folks who used it, including me, have one for sale since we bought a pair. I left it driven by the stock amp; I have HFL and Nav and don't listen to 5.1 sources / DVD-A all that often anyway.
I left the stock amp in place and tapped the speaker-level outputs. I currently have an LOC between the stock and new amps; but my 3sixty.2 just arrived and it will replace the LOC, because:
The HU does some freq. response shaping to optimize the stock speakers, which you'll be replacing. The net result is an EQ pattern out of the HU that doesn't do your new speakers any favors. The LOC doesn't compensate, or "flatline" the starting EQ for you like a DSP will.
My $0.02
I left the stock amp in place and tapped the speaker-level outputs. I currently have an LOC between the stock and new amps; but my 3sixty.2 just arrived and it will replace the LOC, because:
The HU does some freq. response shaping to optimize the stock speakers, which you'll be replacing. The net result is an EQ pattern out of the HU that doesn't do your new speakers any favors. The LOC doesn't compensate, or "flatline" the starting EQ for you like a DSP will.
My $0.02
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08-27-2009, 02:23 PM
#8
10th Gear
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What is your budget? That will determine everything else. I would not recommend a specific speaker without knowing how much you want to spend. There are plenty of them out there at different price ranges. Same for amps
Here are the basics. Go with 6.5 components up front, 6.5 coaxials in the back and 3.5 center. A drop in sub in the existing location will sound bad. You want to get a 10 or 12 in a box in the trunk.
IMO dump the infinitys
You can keep the stock headunit. it is very good and several people have won sound SQ awards with it.
Here are the basics. Go with 6.5 components up front, 6.5 coaxials in the back and 3.5 center. A drop in sub in the existing location will sound bad. You want to get a 10 or 12 in a box in the trunk.
IMO dump the infinitys
You can keep the stock headunit. it is very good and several people have won sound SQ awards with it.
08-27-2009, 05:43 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
08-27-2009, 06:07 PM
#10
Racer
Go with ZUKI amp's 5 watts x 4 awesome powerhouse
http://www.zukiaudio.net/index.html
This will be part of my next active system
http://www.zukiaudio.net/index.html
This will be part of my next active system
08-27-2009, 10:07 PM
#11
7th Gear
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=( U guys did a AMAZING job helping me with my radar questions so thanks with that... but I am still not exactly getting the info i am hoping to get here. probably cauzed I didnt ask specific enough questions.
I guess my biggest confusion is over how the multiple channels are wired.
Where exactly is the factory amp located... I assume its an additional component to the head unit.
how do you tap into the signal to feed a replacement amp.
Are the door speakers and the side dash speakers wired like components? or are they amped indipendently?
A factory looking clean install is a must where can i hide the huge crossovers if i put my components up front. where can i get a mounting to hold the silk dome tweeters in the space that is designed for 3.5's at the side of the dash.
I will have more questions thanks for all of you who help!
I guess my biggest confusion is over how the multiple channels are wired.
Where exactly is the factory amp located... I assume its an additional component to the head unit.
how do you tap into the signal to feed a replacement amp.
Are the door speakers and the side dash speakers wired like components? or are they amped indipendently?
A factory looking clean install is a must where can i hide the huge crossovers if i put my components up front. where can i get a mounting to hold the silk dome tweeters in the space that is designed for 3.5's at the side of the dash.
I will have more questions thanks for all of you who help!
08-27-2009, 11:31 PM
#12
chris
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Im using a jl audio (clean sweep).. but i have navi, so i wanted to keep all fun. with the bluetooth and navi.. i need more info on what you have, navi,, non navi,, then i can help you plan it out and install it.. chris
08-28-2009, 08:20 AM
#13
Burning Brakes
=( U guys did a AMAZING job helping me with my radar questions so thanks with that... but I am still not exactly getting the info i am hoping to get here. probably cauzed I didnt ask specific enough questions.
I guess my biggest confusion is over how the multiple channels are wired.
Where exactly is the factory amp located... I assume its an additional component to the head unit.
how do you tap into the signal to feed a replacement amp.
Are the door speakers and the side dash speakers wired like components? or are they amped indipendently?
A factory looking clean install is a must where can i hide the huge crossovers if i put my components up front. where can i get a mounting to hold the silk dome tweeters in the space that is designed for 3.5's at the side of the dash.
I will have more questions thanks for all of you who help!
I guess my biggest confusion is over how the multiple channels are wired.
Where exactly is the factory amp located... I assume its an additional component to the head unit.
how do you tap into the signal to feed a replacement amp.
Are the door speakers and the side dash speakers wired like components? or are they amped indipendently?
A factory looking clean install is a must where can i hide the huge crossovers if i put my components up front. where can i get a mounting to hold the silk dome tweeters in the space that is designed for 3.5's at the side of the dash.
I will have more questions thanks for all of you who help!
There are two ways to tap into the signal, before the stock amp (boost the signal with a line driver) or after the amp (drop the signal with an LOC). Both have seemed to work for people.
The door speakers and the tweeters are amped independantly, the tweeter has a high pass filter to only take the high signals.
There is some space in the dash to hide the crossovers, or you can hide them in the trunk.
To fit the tweeters most people unscrew the stock tweeter from the grill and add a new tweeter. I did an install for princelybug a while ago and the modded tweeters came out very nice.The tweeters pop out of the dash pretty easy, just gently slide a screwdriver in the gap and pull up.
There are some wiring diagrams floating around, do a search to find them.
I've done several audio installs on TLs, PM me for more questions
Here's are some links to more speaker FAQs
http://https://acurazine.com/forums/...d.php?t=602658
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/3g-tl-audio-electronics-faq-605299/
08-28-2009, 11:39 AM
#14
Intermediate
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Philadelphia
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Good luck on your journey - I'm about 4 weeks in front of you. The Boston Acoustic S35 is a common drop-in for the center channel. Most folks who used it, including me, have one for sale since we bought a pair. I left it driven by the stock amp; I have HFL and Nav and don't listen to 5.1 sources / DVD-A all that often anyway.
I left the stock amp in place and tapped the speaker-level outputs. I currently have an LOC between the stock and new amps; but my 3sixty.2 just arrived and it will replace the LOC, because:
The HU does some freq. response shaping to optimize the stock speakers, which you'll be replacing. The net result is an EQ pattern out of the HU that doesn't do your new speakers any favors. The LOC doesn't compensate, or "flatline" the starting EQ for you like a DSP will.
My $0.02
I left the stock amp in place and tapped the speaker-level outputs. I currently have an LOC between the stock and new amps; but my 3sixty.2 just arrived and it will replace the LOC, because:
The HU does some freq. response shaping to optimize the stock speakers, which you'll be replacing. The net result is an EQ pattern out of the HU that doesn't do your new speakers any favors. The LOC doesn't compensate, or "flatline" the starting EQ for you like a DSP will.
My $0.02
08-28-2009, 02:30 PM
#15
Instructor
I must first say, i am not an expert - listen to a few of the guys that already responded.
If you want SQ- look at either the ID CTX 6.5 comp or possibly a CDT Comp. Depending on the $ you can spend. Go to www.woofersetc.com for ID and www.vertexaudio.com for CDT. I am running the PSS 0626 comps and they are nice. Metal tweet, but much smoother than a focal. If you like a non metal tweet, the Alpine pros are nice.
Amps - Im running cadence, which work for me, you can find a nice arc audio amp on woofers for your front comps - they are supposed to be cleaner.
Rear speakers - not sure if you need them, I prefer fill, you could probably run what you have now off the factory amp and be happy. Dont do a 6x9, that will NOT be SQ.
Sub, go with the IDQV4 from woofers, very tranparent. I am using a DIYMA and like it a lot, but dont necessarily feel comportable telling someone to buy it. For the sub, go with sealed box, some guys on here have really cool fiberglass enclosures built into the side of their trunk. That sounds like its what you want, but its $, I just have a .94f3 sealed box wedged into the corner. Its kind of ghetto, but I have my full trunk.
You are going to need some kind of LOC, if you want to keep navi voice, you are going to have to tap the wires running out of your factory amp, I am using an audio control device (dql-8) but a LC6 would work. Some other guys using a set up that taps before the amp, to me, I get the feeling that set up sounds better. I get a little hiss and I think its from the factory amp.
Anyway, my two cents. Good Luck.
Oh yeah, if you have a type s or noice cancelation, remove the microphones inside your cabin.
Took me a couple days to figure that out.
If you want SQ- look at either the ID CTX 6.5 comp or possibly a CDT Comp. Depending on the $ you can spend. Go to www.woofersetc.com for ID and www.vertexaudio.com for CDT. I am running the PSS 0626 comps and they are nice. Metal tweet, but much smoother than a focal. If you like a non metal tweet, the Alpine pros are nice.
Amps - Im running cadence, which work for me, you can find a nice arc audio amp on woofers for your front comps - they are supposed to be cleaner.
Rear speakers - not sure if you need them, I prefer fill, you could probably run what you have now off the factory amp and be happy. Dont do a 6x9, that will NOT be SQ.
Sub, go with the IDQV4 from woofers, very tranparent. I am using a DIYMA and like it a lot, but dont necessarily feel comportable telling someone to buy it. For the sub, go with sealed box, some guys on here have really cool fiberglass enclosures built into the side of their trunk. That sounds like its what you want, but its $, I just have a .94f3 sealed box wedged into the corner. Its kind of ghetto, but I have my full trunk.
You are going to need some kind of LOC, if you want to keep navi voice, you are going to have to tap the wires running out of your factory amp, I am using an audio control device (dql-8) but a LC6 would work. Some other guys using a set up that taps before the amp, to me, I get the feeling that set up sounds better. I get a little hiss and I think its from the factory amp.
Anyway, my two cents. Good Luck.
Oh yeah, if you have a type s or noice cancelation, remove the microphones inside your cabin.
Took me a couple days to figure that out.
08-28-2009, 07:17 PM
#17
10th Gear
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I just finished an install where I tapped in before the amp for the front stage and sub. Rear fill and center was left stock. I just cut one end off of the RCA cables and soldered them to the signal wires before the amp. Lots of wire color code info is available in this forum. Have to say I am happy with the result. No hiss or whine when using a zero track off an IASCA test disk. Signal off the HU is very weak. I got by on the front stage because I used an active crossover and was able to boost the signal with it. I had to add a line driver to the sub channel to get decent output from the sub.
Amps were installed under the front seats. With the rear floormats installed, it looks completely stock.
There is a nice open area under the dash on the drivers side to the left of the steering column that is a good place to stash the component crossovers.
Amps were installed under the front seats. With the rear floormats installed, it looks completely stock.
There is a nice open area under the dash on the drivers side to the left of the steering column that is a good place to stash the component crossovers.
08-28-2009, 08:05 PM
#18
Cracking toast, Gromit!
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The stock tweet does have a simple high-pass cap "built into" the housing.
I have CRS so bad I can't remember what it stands for 
08-28-2009, 09:06 PM
#21
Instructor
I just finished an install where I tapped in before the amp for the front stage and sub. Rear fill and center was left stock. I just cut one end off of the RCA cables and soldered them to the signal wires before the amp. Lots of wire color code info is available in this forum. Have to say I am happy with the result. No hiss or whine when using a zero track off an IASCA test disk. Signal off the HU is very weak. I got by on the front stage because I used an active crossover and was able to boost the signal with it. I had to add a line driver to the sub channel to get decent output from the sub.
Amps were installed under the front seats. With the rear floormats installed, it looks completely stock.
There is a nice open area under the dash on the drivers side to the left of the steering column that is a good place to stash the component crossovers.
Amps were installed under the front seats. With the rear floormats installed, it looks completely stock.
There is a nice open area under the dash on the drivers side to the left of the steering column that is a good place to stash the component crossovers.
There is also a nice place to put the crossovers behind the glove box. Easy to get to as well.
08-30-2009, 08:35 PM
#22
10th Gear
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Im thinking of trying to pull the pre amp wires only and running them into my dql-8, im getting a little hiss at high volumes going with the post factory amp wires. Its very light, but still noticable. I just dont know if the device can handle that type of signal, the dql is supposed to operate off of wattage and i guess the signal out of the HU is in volts, or a fraction of a volt actually.
There is also a nice place to put the crossovers behind the glove box. Easy to get to as well.
There is also a nice place to put the crossovers behind the glove box. Easy to get to as well.
Gary - I don't have any experience with the dql-8, but yeah, it looks like it's supposed to get a high power input. I think the Matrix is the Audiocontrol product you need for the preamp signal. I used an Overdrive which is the 2-channel version of the Matrix and it worked well. I had it left over from a previous experiment.
08-30-2009, 11:59 PM
#23
TL owner
I just finished an install where I tapped in before the amp for the front stage and sub. Rear fill and center was left stock. I just cut one end off of the RCA cables and soldered them to the signal wires before the amp. Lots of wire color code info is available in this forum. Have to say I am happy with the result. No hiss or whine when using a zero track off an IASCA test disk. Signal off the HU is very weak. I got by on the front stage because I used an active crossover and was able to boost the signal with it. I had to add a line driver to the sub channel to get decent output from the sub.
Amps were installed under the front seats. With the rear floormats installed, it looks completely stock.
There is a nice open area under the dash on the drivers side to the left of the steering column that is a good place to stash the component crossovers.
Amps were installed under the front seats. With the rear floormats installed, it looks completely stock.
There is a nice open area under the dash on the drivers side to the left of the steering column that is a good place to stash the component crossovers.
do you have factory nav?
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