cdkruaya

I need technical advice on finishing up my amp and sub installation. The picture below is my crossover that I will be using and I have cut and pasted the specs taken from the MTX website to reduce directing questions back at me.

1. I have disconnected the (+/_) wire that connected directly to the back of the factory sub in the trunk.

2. Taken from other postings on the website and research I have come to find that I need this L.O.C. (Line Output Converter) thing-a-majig to high power stock sub speaker wire down to a low signal that I can plug into my PPI AMP

3. I have purchased a new 12" JL W3 sub 4 ohm dual voice coil and plan to run my old PPI art series 4ohm amp to power this baby.

Can I simply run the stock sub (+/-) wire to the location labled "High Z" on the crossover below or will I have to buy this L.O.C. thingy?



Everything is ready to be installed all I need is do I have everything that I need.

Kirk3272

iTrader: (1)

Correct and you will need to make a couple jumpers to go from right +/- to left +/- or vice versa.

Kirk

cdkruaya

Sorry man but I have no idea what you just said. Are you saying that "correct" I need a L.O.C, or are you saying correct that I can simply plug in my factory sub wires into the High "Z" inputs on my crossover?

Kirk3272

iTrader: (1)

No LOC needed. Just plug the OEM sub wires into the left or right +/- and then jump to the other side so both sides will have an input.

K

Crook

Yes, what Kirk said.

Desert_TL

This is correct.

cdkruaya

Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!! You are the best!

cdkruaya

The amplifier cable that I installed is around 12 years old and pretty corroded. I have ran this under the seats and carpet and now I am ready to off myself since its not putting enough juice to the amp. Is it possible to be old and corroded enough to not get enough amps back to the trunk???

mrbrace

Where are you getting your remote turn on from?

1FastVtec

If the cable is that bad, I would reccommend a new one. Especially if its coroded. If you want the best from your system, then you need good parts. GL!

Kracker

35k car... You can buy 50-100 wiring kit.

How old is the amp.. PPI Art... isnt that 2000 era.. Perhaps the amp is bad? Also depending on your wiring... The 4 ohm is either 2 ohm or 8 ohm. Back in the day, there wasnt alot of 2 ohm stable amps. But PPI were some of the best.

pohljm

I am confused, Isnt the OP wondering if he can connect his sub speaker leads to his crossover ? that seems like its not a problem, but why are all the graphics showing connections to the low level inputs and not the high level input? these are speaker level signals, am I missing something?

Desert_TL

You're confusing "level" and "impedance". High level connections (post-amplifier to speaker) have low impedance and low level connections (pre-amplifier RCA, etc.) have high impedance. "Z" means impedance. So "LOW Z INPUT" means post-amplifier high level inputs.

THE_FIRM_ENT

quick question? where did you plug the remote wire from your amp to your car at???

pohljm

thanx, i knew there must be an explanation for it, I was wondering why the connections looked correct for the type of signal rca vs spade but never seen the "z" callout for impedance

stavebomb

to access the wires from the stock sub, can you just unplug them from the trunk after removing the covering in the trunk, or do you have to go through the hassle of removing the entire back seat and then rear deck?

stavebomb

also, can somebody be so kind as to let me know which color wires are which? thanks!

Kracker

Ive seen older threads brought back from the dead....

You can take off the inside of the trunk... But your not going to accomplish alot... If you want the sub out you need to take the rear seat out.

Look at this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170977

stavebomb

if i just want access to the wires rather than removing the entire sub, would through the trunk be the better move?

psolk

Guys,
A few other posters asked the same question in this thread but which fuse are you guys tapping into for the Remote Power? I have tried numerous fuses but they all seem to remain powered even when the car is off and the amp is staying on even with the car off. Any ideas? I do also have a stiffening capacitor. Could the power to the amp be coming from there when the car is off and the key is out?
Thanks in advance guys, I have everything hooked up and have great Bass I am just concerned about the amp staying on...
Thanks again,
-Paul

stavebomb

most people have hooked up to either the 32 or 33 fuse, i am not sure witch one but am leaning more to 32. and if you have a capacitor it is most likely storing power and then dispensing that to the amp rather than the cars power being ran through the wires. If you dont have your remote wire hooked up to fuse 32 or 33 try those and see if you still have the same issue.