Double Checking Aftermarket Amp/Sub Install Info

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Old Mar 31, 2022 | 12:47 AM
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MisterPhoenix's Avatar
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Double Checking Aftermarket Amp/Sub Install Info

Car: 2007 Acura TL Type-S
Hello all, I've read various threads around installing an aftermarket amp and sub, but I feel like I'm just not able to understand all the steps I've seen (me issue, not a guide issue).

I'm going to install a Rockford Fosgate P300-10, which is a sub with a built-in amp. When we had it installed in my previous car, all we had to do was hook-up the power, ground, and the Audio Input which we wiretapped into the rear speakers and set the amp to "Detect Audio".
Reference Picture:



So where my issue comes in is the factory amp already in the Type-S. Is our previous installation method still possible or will we have to do something with the factory amp? And I believe we could tap into the factory sub wires instead of the rear speakers?

Thank you all for your help in advance!
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Old Mar 31, 2022 | 09:00 AM
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I did the same thing in my last TL with a JBL self-powered sub unit. Yes, it will work. I pulled the lead completely off the factory sub (versus tapping in), and removed the factory sub entirely. It is an 'overpowered' signal but it still played clean, just adjust the gain accordingly. I don't know this for a fact but the only potential problem I see with tapping the L & R rears is that those speakers might be high-passed from the factory amp at some mid-range frequency. If you ever listened to your system with the rear deck cover off you'll see that those L & R rears don't do a ton of jumping up and down, it's just the sub.
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Old Mar 31, 2022 | 12:22 PM
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Fantastic information.

the only potential problem I see with tapping the L & R rears is that those speakers might be high-passed from the factory amp at some mid-range frequency. If you ever listened to your system with the rear deck cover off you'll see that those L & R rears don't do a ton of jumping up and down, it's just the sub.
Do you think tapping into the stock sub wires (since I'm not really gonna need it) work or would just running a remote wire to a fuse be the better option?

P.S. Sorry for asking so many questions, never had a vehicle with an upgraded audio system so I wanna make sure I get it right the first time!
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Old Mar 31, 2022 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by MisterPhoenix
Fantastic information.

would just running a remote wire to a fuse be the better option?
Are you talking about for a remote turn on lead? You won’t need it, it will work the same way as your previous set-up. Just set it to audio or dc detect.

If you want to run the fosgate but still keep the factory sub then just tap into the sub leads, +/-.
In my case, my factory sub was blown so I just cut the wire, stripped it, and plugged into the amp.

Theres only one pos/neg going to the factory sub (mono channel). You can plug it into either the left speaker level input on the fosgate or the right, it doesn’t matter. Hope that helps clarify.

edit: just to answer your original questions directly:
nope, don’t have to do anything with the factory amp.
tap the factory sub wire for your bass signal- right at the rear deck, might have to unscrew the factory sub to access the wires, don’t use the L&R rear speakers for signal- their bass is filtered out

as for power and ground, try to run at least 8 gauge for it.

Last edited by 3FIFTY'07TL; Mar 31, 2022 at 10:55 PM. Reason: Add information
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Old Apr 1, 2022 | 04:14 AM
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Fantastic. I think that clarifies everything. Thank you so much!
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