so my friend and i just got TL's, we both work at a dealership and they were traded in within 2 weeks of each other (his an 04 and mine an 06).. and i was wondering if i could somehow tap into the factory amp by wiring the remote wire so when it sends a signal to the factory sub, it also sends a signal to my Kicker amp (for my aftermarket subs).. he showed me a diagram of the factory amp harness and said i have to tap into the orange wire.. anyone do this or have any better suggestions (or know what i'm talking about lol).. i think i would also have to tap into the factory sub for the RCA's..
in my other car, i have an aftermarket headunit that the amp's remote wire and the RCA's are connected to, so i just dont know how to approach this on my TL..... i dont want to replace my factory amp with this amp, because i only want the kicker amp to power my subs and not the speakers..

 

There are a ton of active threads on the pros and cons of keeping the stock amp right now, mostly cons. Some people use an ignition hot fuse in the fuse box for the trigger, some use an acc fuse. I believe some get the trigger from the XM receiver. I don't see why the stock amp trigger wouldn't work but I do remember people having problems with it. Maybe it's because the amp stays active after the ignition is turned off in some cases. You might want to search back to '04 when people were first experimenting with these cars. You will find the info to be more valuable than most of the stuff in the past few years. I'm sure others will chime in with their trigger wire points. I honestly don't remember where I tapped in, it was back in late '05.

 

thanks for the reply, i found https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/amp-remote-wire-help-567567/.. i read thru it and it answered most of my questions.. i searched before, didnt find any answers, searched different words and bam !!
but i'm still confused as to where i should get the RCAs from.. any ideas ?

 

It depends on your equipment and goals. If you're installing an amp for the fronts and subs:

Before the factory amp, straight from the headunit is a very low voltage signal but it's flat and it's clean. A line driver near the HU to boost voltage is recommended because it can lower any potential noise picked up from the HU on it's way to the trunk.

After the factory amp will always have a hiss. Depending on the level of amplification it can be annoying or barely noticeable. The problem is you're amplifying a dirty signal so there's no way around the hiss other than to turn your gains down.

If you're just installing a subwoofer, pull down the top carpet in the trunk, find the subwoofer plug, unplug the factory sub and tap into those wires. While this is taking the signal after the factory amp, the hiss is a non issue on a subwoofer. You will still be able to control it with the factory HU as well. Depending on which amp or processor you use, you might have to use a LOC to lower the voltage a bit but it's recommended to go straight into the processor/amp if possible.

So the options for RCAs for a subwoofer amp are to either tap into the stock sub wires in the trunk and wire directly into the high level inputs of the aftermarket amp (if it has them), install a LOC which will take speaker wire inputs and will have RCA outputs to connect to the aftermarket amp, or if your aftermarket amp accepts high level into the RCAs, splice RCAs on the factory sub wires.

 

all of my questions have been answered lol... i'll just be adding subs, not going to upgrade my speakers just yet ..
i'll have to find a diagram of the subwoofer plug so i know what wires to tap into.. thanks so much for ur responses, you've been very helpful.. i'll post pics when i end up doing it