After many searches I have been unable to find the information I need. It seems nobody has posted a solution to the situation I am currently experiencing. I paid to have my amp installed by a shop, and my remote wire was run to the fuse box by the left drivers side foot. Because the remote wire is already located here and has been run through the car, I cannot change its location and it can not reach other areas. As far as I can tell, every fuse I have tried turns the amp on without the keys in the ignition. Does our Fusebox have constant power? I have never had problems with a remote wire running off this fusebox in other cars, or does our fusebox turn on as soon as the car is unlocked? I ahve tried the seat heater fuse, radio fuse, and most of the others and the amp always turns on without the ignition being turned. Any help in finding a solution would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

 

At least one of the unused fuse locations is swtiched with the ignition. I believe it's #29 or 31. Check the diagram for the open sockets on the back of the fuse box cover. You can use an add-a-circuit to tap into the one you need.

 

the fuse for the cigarate lighters is on acessoriy wire as well as the radio.

 

Buzz, thank you! adding a fuse to #29 worked perfectly. Also to the above statement, my radio fuse has constant power, guess because of the security system, so no it does not work.

 

OtownTL,

I'm curious about your new amp setup: can you describe what you had done?
Did you replace any speakers as well; and if so which are the new speakers?
What issues or problems did you run into? What do you like about the new setup?

TL-Rocket

'04 TL SSM/EBONY/6MT/NAVI/HPT

 

TLRocket,

The only work I had done was running a 4gauge power wire and ground for a new amp for a new sub. I disconnected the stock sub and ran the high to low converter off the stock sub. At this point that was the only part of the stock system I found very inadequate. I have dealt with car audio systems for many years and while yes, the stock system is good for stock, I would argue with those who think it is great, because, overall, it is just not amazing and just with adding the sub amp and sub, it has warmed the system up quite a bit.

Edit: The only problem I ran into was the shop installed the rem wire on a circuit that had continuous power. I tried to run it off the stock rem wire on the stock amp, but the wire did not have sufficient power to turn both amps on, so I ended up running the rem wire to a new fuse in location 29 next to the left foot of the driver in the fuse box. Other than that, the install ran smoothly according to the shop who did it and I have had no othe problems

 

OtownTL, Im trying to wire my high-low converter, but it has four speaker wires, + - left, and + - right. the sub only has two wires going to it. Any help would be great, so i can control the subs from the navi. THANKS!

 

Use the factory turn on wire at the factory amp and a low voltage trigger -- problem solved.

 

I was wondering if you get a hissing nose through the speakers when the stereo is off. I have a similar setup and my amps are on despite having the ignition on and stereo powered off. I was wondering if slot 29 powers the amps only when the stereo is on or constantly runs power when ignition is on? I can't stand the noise and want a solution!!! Any help would be appreciated.

 

Tapping into #29 will work perfectly but the only draw back would be the amp will always be on when your ignition is on. Even when you turn off the OEM deck, your amp will still be on. But by using #29 I heard good results in terms of no turn on popping or thumping noise.

 

What about if you put an add-a-circuit to the radio fuse? Would that keep the amps off if the stereo is off?

 

I tapped into the RED/YEL wire from the stock amp, and the instant I tried to use it, the stock amp didn't put out any sound. I tried powering a relay with from the RED/YEL wire, and it did the same thing. I used a multi-meter to confirm that it is a power source.

When I first hooked up my system, I was alarmed that the stock amp wasn't working. It wasn't until later that I realized that I could try disconnecting the RED/YEL wire from my amp's REM connector to see if it made it work again, and when I disconnected it, it worked.

Now I'm off to try to find a switched power source without using an add-a-circuit. I don't want things to slip out over time. One of those wires from the fuse box has got to be from fuse 32. Now how to figure out which one....

 

I have that issue too. Should we bridge 4 wires of the converter into 2?

 

Are you doing this so that you can have two RCA outputs for your sub amp? If so, you can just wire both inputs of the converter to the output of the stock amp. In other words, connect the same thing (the output of the stock sub amp) to both left and right inputs of your convertor.

You might not even need the converter, especially if the convertor drops the signal too low. I have the RCA inputs of my external amp directly connected to the speaker wires going to my front speakers, and I'm even using the 0.5-2V range of my amp (my amp also has a 2-8V range). In other words, the stock amp is driving my external amp without a convertor.

I've had it like this for almost 2 years now. I control the bass level using a bass remote knob that came with the amp (much easier than using the touchscreen because I vary the bass quite frequently).

 

Not all amps are created equally. I ALMOST got rid of my old amp thinking it was toast...turns out the amperage that turns on the oem amp is not strong enough to turn on a real, serious and strong aftermarket amp. Best bet...tap into #29, as mentioned, and put in a toggle switch in case you ever want to kill the sound.

 

I don't know what the deal is with the stock turn-on lead, but I ended up running an extra wire to an ignition power source in the fuse box using one of those add-a-circuit fuses (power on when key is turned to on), so my amp is always on when my car is on. I almost always have my stereo on, so I don't mind.

 

The stock amp is always on because other things use the amp (nav, hands-free). Just out of curiosity, when does this hiss bother you? The engine is much louder, and if you're sitting in your car with your engine off, why do you have your key in the on position?

 

for a lot of us, the oem amp got noisy as hell.