Confused and disapointed =[[[[[ Helppp speakers POLK
10-14-2011, 10:34 PM
#1
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Confused and disapointed =[[[[[ Helppp speakers POLK
soo previously i had infinity reference 1031t tweeters and db651s in the front with out an amp. well i started doing my project tonight and i replaced the tweeters and the speakers with the polk db6501 component set =[ (still withoutamp) well i decided to test it and the speakers seemed fine but the tweeters were HORRIBLE =[ whats going on?!!? the refference were so much better =[ also what im confused about is this12 Volt DC: ----------------- White
Remote Turn on(input) ---------------- Red/ Yellow
Left Front ---------- Lt. Green+ / Purple-
Right Front ------------ Blue+ / red-
Left Rear ------------- Brown/White+ / Red/Yellow-
Right Rear ------------- Red/Blue+ / Yellow-
Center ---------------- green/White+ / Blue/Yellow-
Subwoofer ------------- Yellow/Black+ / Lt. Green/Red-
@ Speaker:
Left Front Tweeter -------- Lt.Green+ / Purple-
Right Front Tweeter ----------- Blue+ / red-
the speaker and tweeter have the same colors.... can someone explain
10-14-2011, 11:54 PM
#2
Racer
Did you wire in the external crossover?
The stock mid-woof and the tweeter are wired in parallel and the stock tweet has a cap that acts as a hi-pass filter.
You need to run the stock amp's output into the external crossover and then to the drivers.
The stock mid-woof and the tweeter are wired in parallel and the stock tweet has a cap that acts as a hi-pass filter.
You need to run the stock amp's output into the external crossover and then to the drivers.
10-15-2011, 02:30 AM
#4
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okay wait so im using a PAC-HON20 to add a amp from there i was planning on taking the wires from the amp to the crossover then from there to the tweeter and speaker but then i found out there the same color and what to do you mean by drivers? thanks for your help! still a little confused
Last edited by prowheelie92; 10-15-2011 at 02:37 AM.
10-15-2011, 11:44 AM
#5
Racer
Drivers = the speaker components (tweeters, midrange, woofer, sub).
The tweeters and the door mid-woofers have the same color wires because they are both hooked up to the same output of the stock amp. They are wired in parallel and the stock tweeter has a built-in crossover (filter).
The way you described wiring up your components is correct. You said that your tweeters sounded bad. I assume that you installed your components into the stock locations and wired them into the stock amp? If this is what you did then did you use the supplied external crossover? If you did not use the crossover then your tweeters are getting a full range signal - this is bad and can damage your tweeters (this may have already happened). Your drivers need the crossover regardless of what amp is driving them.
The tweeters and the door mid-woofers have the same color wires because they are both hooked up to the same output of the stock amp. They are wired in parallel and the stock tweeter has a built-in crossover (filter).
The way you described wiring up your components is correct. You said that your tweeters sounded bad. I assume that you installed your components into the stock locations and wired them into the stock amp? If this is what you did then did you use the supplied external crossover? If you did not use the crossover then your tweeters are getting a full range signal - this is bad and can damage your tweeters (this may have already happened). Your drivers need the crossover regardless of what amp is driving them.
10-15-2011, 11:52 AM
#6
Advanced
Thread Starter
Drivers = the speaker components (tweeters, midrange, woofer, sub).
The tweeters and the door mid-woofers have the same color wires because they are both hooked up to the same output of the stock amp. They are wired in parallel and the stock tweeter has a built-in crossover (filter).
The way you described wiring up your components is correct. You said that your tweeters sounded bad. I assume that you installed your components into the stock locations and wired them into the stock amp? If this is what you did then did you use the supplied external crossover? If you did not use the crossover then your tweeters are getting a full range signal - this is bad and can damage your tweeters (this may have already happened). Your drivers need the crossover regardless of what amp is driving them.
The tweeters and the door mid-woofers have the same color wires because they are both hooked up to the same output of the stock amp. They are wired in parallel and the stock tweeter has a built-in crossover (filter).
The way you described wiring up your components is correct. You said that your tweeters sounded bad. I assume that you installed your components into the stock locations and wired them into the stock amp? If this is what you did then did you use the supplied external crossover? If you did not use the crossover then your tweeters are getting a full range signal - this is bad and can damage your tweeters (this may have already happened). Your drivers need the crossover regardless of what amp is driving them.
10-15-2011, 12:00 PM
#7
Not to be harsh...but either tweeter will likely sound bad, no matter what it's crossed at. I've heard those Polk's and they were pretty bright. You should only be using the FL and FR from the factory amp into the LOC. From there into the amp, amp (speaker wire out) into the crossover, and into the respective speaker. I thought you said you were using an aftermarket amp right?
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10-15-2011, 12:08 PM
#8
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Not to be harsh...but either tweeter will likely sound bad, no matter what it's crossed at. I've heard those Polk's and they were pretty bright. You should only be using the FL and FR from the factory amp into the LOC. From there into the amp, amp (speaker wire out) into the crossover, and into the respective speaker. I thought you said you were using an aftermarket amp right?
i have everything ready.
10-15-2011, 01:55 PM
#10
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the car is in major surgery right now. not what i expected and im taking out the navigation! this is going to take the whole day! im taking pictures while in the process! i need to get to the radio output for my PAC-HON20 so it provides output for aftermarket and factory amp. CRAP this means i might need longer RCAs..... -____-
10-15-2011, 02:50 PM
#11
=Dude, it is not very simple to incorporate aftermarket equipment with the oem system.
take a step back and let's tackle what you got going on so you don't waste anymore time. What are you adding, what don't you have.
I'm familiar with the ipod connector...didn't realize it doubled as an LOC.
take a step back and let's tackle what you got going on so you don't waste anymore time. What are you adding, what don't you have.
I'm familiar with the ipod connector...didn't realize it doubled as an LOC.
10-15-2011, 03:49 PM
#12
Advanced
Thread Starter
=Dude, it is not very simple to incorporate aftermarket equipment with the oem system.
take a step back and let's tackle what you got going on so you don't waste anymore time. What are you adding, what don't you have.
I'm familiar with the ipod connector...didn't realize it doubled as an LOC.
take a step back and let's tackle what you got going on so you don't waste anymore time. What are you adding, what don't you have.
I'm familiar with the ipod connector...didn't realize it doubled as an LOC.
10-15-2011, 04:19 PM
#13
Dude..you don't have to take the navi apart to do that. And you don't need to pull the seats to fit rca's or wires to the back. Just straighten out a hanger and tape the wire to the end of the hanger and feed it through the bottom corner of the seats. It'll go right through
10-15-2011, 05:45 PM
#14
alright so im on my way there i took out the whole navi and attached PAC AOEM-HON20 took the radio. this unit basically allows me to add a amplifier while keeping the stock amplifier to make things a little easier. now im only having a 4 channel amp so my center channel with be working threw factory amp. now im working on taking the rear seats apart to get to the rear speakers and so i can run rca s threw
10-15-2011, 07:19 PM
#15
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and im learning as i goo
AMP OUTPUTS:
12 Volt DC: ----------------- White
Remote Turn on(input) ---------------- Red/ Yellow
Left Front ---------- Lt. Green+ / Purple-
Right Front ------------ Blue+ / red-
Left Rear ------------- Brown/White+ / Red/Yellow-
Right Rear ------------- Red/Blue+ / Yellow-
Center ---------------- green/White+ / Blue/Yellow-
Subwoofer ------------- Yellow/Black+ / Lt. Green/Red-
@ Speaker:
Left Front Tweeter -------- Lt.Green+ / Purple-
Right Front Tweeter ----------- Blue+ / red-
so it says the front tweeter and front speakers have the same colors for positive and negative. im a little confused with this. i have my amp ready i attacthed the crossover and then i see theres a only 2 wires for a mid woofer speaker and tweeter? confused please help?
Last edited by Steven Bell; 10-16-2011 at 05:21 PM. Reason: Merged Posts.
10-15-2011, 07:56 PM
#18
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10-16-2011, 10:12 AM
#20
Team Owner
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Prowheelie, welcome to Acurazine.
I've merged these 2 threads together. Let's just make one thread about a single subject.
Thanks!
I've merged these 2 threads together. Let's just make one thread about a single subject.
Thanks!
10-16-2011, 11:42 AM
#21
Team Owner
The one thing I think needs to be clarified is the stock amp feeds both the mids and tweeters with the same wire.
After it leaves the amp it splits off in a connector behind the glove box and one wire goes to the tweeter and one goes to the door.
If you're running aftermarket tweeters and you run the with the factory wiring you will be running a full range signal to them and besides sounding terrible you will eventually blow them. The factory tweeters have a "crossover" built in, this is how they get away with this configuration. Aftermarket do not.
You need to run new speaker wire to the tweeters. I had luck just pushing wire through the tweeter hole and finding it behind the dash without removing anything but the bottom panels.
You'll run the wire from the amp to the new crossovers. From the crossovers, the "woofer" wire will go to the door speakers and the "tweeter" will go to the new wire you just ran.
After it leaves the amp it splits off in a connector behind the glove box and one wire goes to the tweeter and one goes to the door.
If you're running aftermarket tweeters and you run the with the factory wiring you will be running a full range signal to them and besides sounding terrible you will eventually blow them. The factory tweeters have a "crossover" built in, this is how they get away with this configuration. Aftermarket do not.
You need to run new speaker wire to the tweeters. I had luck just pushing wire through the tweeter hole and finding it behind the dash without removing anything but the bottom panels.
You'll run the wire from the amp to the new crossovers. From the crossovers, the "woofer" wire will go to the door speakers and the "tweeter" will go to the new wire you just ran.
10-16-2011, 04:41 PM
#22
Advanced
Thread Starter
The one thing I think needs to be clarified is the stock amp feeds both the mids and tweeters with the same wire.
After it leaves the amp it splits off in a connector behind the glove box and one wire goes to the tweeter and one goes to the door.
If you're running aftermarket tweeters and you run the with the factory wiring you will be running a full range signal to them and besides sounding terrible you will eventually blow them. The factory tweeters have a "crossover" built in, this is how they get away with this configuration. Aftermarket do not.
You need to run new speaker wire to the tweeters. I had luck just pushing wire through the tweeter hole and finding it behind the dash without removing anything but the bottom panels.
You'll run the wire from the amp to the new crossovers. From the crossovers, the "woofer" wire will go to the door speakers and the "tweeter" will go to the new wire you just ran.
After it leaves the amp it splits off in a connector behind the glove box and one wire goes to the tweeter and one goes to the door.
If you're running aftermarket tweeters and you run the with the factory wiring you will be running a full range signal to them and besides sounding terrible you will eventually blow them. The factory tweeters have a "crossover" built in, this is how they get away with this configuration. Aftermarket do not.
You need to run new speaker wire to the tweeters. I had luck just pushing wire through the tweeter hole and finding it behind the dash without removing anything but the bottom panels.
You'll run the wire from the amp to the new crossovers. From the crossovers, the "woofer" wire will go to the door speakers and the "tweeter" will go to the new wire you just ran.
holy crap that took a long time.. thanks i figured it all out im putting the car back together now. everything is working perfectly now
10-16-2011, 07:49 PM
#23
Advanced
Thread Starter
The one thing I think needs to be clarified is the stock amp feeds both the mids and tweeters with the same wire.
After it leaves the amp it splits off in a connector behind the glove box and one wire goes to the tweeter and one goes to the door.
If you're running aftermarket tweeters and you run the with the factory wiring you will be running a full range signal to them and besides sounding terrible you will eventually blow them. The factory tweeters have a "crossover" built in, this is how they get away with this configuration. Aftermarket do not.
You need to run new speaker wire to the tweeters. I had luck just pushing wire through the tweeter hole and finding it behind the dash without removing anything but the bottom panels.
You'll run the wire from the amp to the new crossovers. From the crossovers, the "woofer" wire will go to the door speakers and the "tweeter" will go to the new wire you just ran.
After it leaves the amp it splits off in a connector behind the glove box and one wire goes to the tweeter and one goes to the door.
If you're running aftermarket tweeters and you run the with the factory wiring you will be running a full range signal to them and besides sounding terrible you will eventually blow them. The factory tweeters have a "crossover" built in, this is how they get away with this configuration. Aftermarket do not.
You need to run new speaker wire to the tweeters. I had luck just pushing wire through the tweeter hole and finding it behind the dash without removing anything but the bottom panels.
You'll run the wire from the amp to the new crossovers. From the crossovers, the "woofer" wire will go to the door speakers and the "tweeter" will go to the new wire you just ran.
actually u dont have to run new wires to the tweeters its not necessary theres the red and blue wire for the front right speaker and front right tweeter. it goes to a blue clip behind the glove box. (this clip was a PAIN ) i took all of them individually you will see 3 sets of red and blue wires to the blue clip. one red and blue is the input then from there it gets seperated. the next pair goes to the tweeter. and the next pair goes to the woofer. i tested all of this with a continuity tester. same thing for the other side. it all worked out in the end!!
10-16-2011, 08:31 PM
#24
Team Owner
That's exactly what I said before several times. However it's much easier to run new wire than to try and tap into the distro block behind the glove box.
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