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Compustar remote starter install DIY on 2008 5AT TL
I decided that I will get a remote starter for my car. However, because I’ve seen how some shops install them, I decided that I don’t want to pay $100 (or whatever) to somebody else if I can do the job.
From short and lazy research, I decided to go with Compustar remote starter. Seems like a nice unit, has decent manual, and can be upgraded. Time will tell if that was a good choice or not.
I went to https://compustar.idatalink.com/prod...product_id/686 and selected my car (2008 TL auto). If you press on “Download guide” you will get a nice pdf with install info. It should be the same for 2004-2008 auto TLs. No idea if works on manuals and I didn’t bother to check. Guide more or less will apply to most Honda vehicles that use ADS-THR-HA2 wiring harness. General guides for the unit contain error codes and other troubleshooting tips so it’s nice to have one as well.
Here are pdfs if for some reason you can’t find them:
- Remote starter “brain” - FT-DC3-LC, also called “CM-DC3” - ~$100 on Amazon
- ADS-THR-HA2 – wiring harness – makes install much easier and cleaner - ~$30 from bestbuy
- iDatalink ADS-USB – required to flash (and later update) remote starter - $32 from ebay
- Compustar RF-2WG15-FM – 2 way remote with lock/unlock/trunk buttons. ~$85 from ebay. Technically you can select any remote you want, as long as it’s compatible with “brain”. You can also go without remotes, and use factory OEM remote to start the car (3x lock function), but since factory remote has limited range, I recommend getting something extra. “2 way” means that remote will confirm if car has started. 1 way are cheaper, but if you don’t see the car, you have no idea if it started (if you were in range). I got two remotes and only one remote is “2 way”.
And since you will have an USB cable to update the “brain” you can… well, update it if needed, without the shop. You can also change some settings if you want. A lot of freedom for $32.
This “brain” also supports additional alarm system. I won’t use it now, maybe in the future. Just something to keep in mind when comparing options.
Flashing the correct firmware on the remote starter module.
Spoiler
Go to https://www.idatalink.com/weblink/ and create an account. You MUST open this page using Internet Explorer. Plugin needs access to the device, and as we all know Internet Explorer gives websites full access to your computer, so flashing module should be easy task.
It will ask you to install the plugin and drivers, and later (in my case, at the bottom) you will need to press “Yes” to run the plugin.
At this point also connect the remote starter module to the ADS-USB and ADS to the computer. That’s the main page.
You can update the module first if you want. Next use “Configure new module”. It will ask what car you got, and recommend the firmware.
I disabled “Lock, lock, lock” to remote start on factory remote as I will be using other remotes that I bought. I also changed the following settings:
Then just press “Flash your device”
And that’s pretty much it for flashing.
Installing the remote starter.
Spoiler
Since I got automatic transmission, I need to cut the wire loop at the remote start unit.
Then take apart drivers bottom kick panel, panel with VSA button and mirror controls, and covers around the steering wheel. It should be easy. Couple screws and clips. Here are service manual pages to help you along the way.
Look in this picture (taken from PDF) on how the wiring harness goes. Pretty self-explanatory.
Orange wire from HA1 goes to door lock data wire. Brown/Black wire at green connector.
Picture in Firstech manual shows connectors from back side (from side where wires are sticking out). From the “front”:
Here’s that connector and wire. I’m strong believer in soldering. If you feel like it just remove insulation and twist bare wire with fingers. Will probably work for some time.
Now parking lights.
And that’s the wire that we are interested in.
Both done. Time to put some tape and move forward.
The HA1 connects to JS1. HA2 is just ignored.
You need "ignition wire" from M5 only if you will be using factory remote to start the car. Since I won’t M5 stays in the box. I won’t be using wire for horn. Lights and having 2 way remote is enough confirmation.
Now just follow programming and takeover procedure and it’s almost done. At first try module had red LED on, so I turned the key OFF and tried again. It worked second time.
Since there are many different remotes, installing remote is separate section.
Spoiler
In terms of wiring, just connect antenna to proper slot, and follow instructions that came with remotes to pair them up. I will pair only one. Second will stay in the box to never be used.
Lock / unlock / trunk works fine. Car didn’t want to start first – it flashed parking lights 3x and then 6 times. I took a look at “general” manual to see what it meant.
Oh ok.
Close the hood and now it works.
Oh and despite turning this blue LED off in the antenna in settings, it was still flashing when car was locked. I put some black tape on it.
That's where I routed the wire for the antenna
And that's the antenna's final location.
At this point go through testing at pages 8 and 9 of Acura specific manual.
Since everything works good it’s time to actually put the wires where they should be. For wires running close to body or panels, I wrapped them with wiring harness tape (like one here:
). It’s a fabric tape that will muffle any noise from wires moving around. Zipties are also recommended. I learned that trick when doing my Nexus 7 install and later having all kinds of noises when hitting bumps.
From positive things, it had enough range to start from my apartment (3rd floor and maybe 1000 ft, car not in sight). It will confirm locking and starting if you have a 2 way remote. If you have KP window roll-up module, it will still work with Compustar remote. Acura’s window roll down will NOT work with Compustar remote. Maybe it can be wired to aux functions, but I won't bother today.
From bad things, despite changing unlock pulse to “1” it still unlocks all the door. And despite turning OFF blue LED for the antenna it will still flash (following red light at driver’s door). If you want to update / change settings later, module won't connect with computer. You either need to disconnect the wires from the module, or take car's battery cable off.
I didn’t connect horn and that’s fine. I didn't test if factory alarm still works, but it should. I will let you know if it doesn't. I turned parking lights OFF in settings and they are OFF when car is running. Only DRLs are ON and they look pretty sweet from some distance.
If I ran into some major issues I will update this thread. Overall it took me around 2h to install it in the car. Maybe 20 minutes to flash the module.
After some testing it seems like factory alarm is completely disabled. When "armed" red door security light will blink normally, but if I pull lock knob on the door and open them, car will just unlock as using remote.
To solve that, connection to the horn wire will need to be made (or you will need to install separate siren). You can get to that wire right behind the steering wheel, but since I put everything back together I used other spot.
More info in the spoiler:
Spoiler
According to the diagram you either need to tap B4 Green/Yellow wire right behind the steering wheel, or tap same color wire at C302 connector.
This loom has 3 connectors (one is for air bag). Disconnecting all three makes it much easier to work on that connector.
M2 connector from the wiring harness kit will also be needed. Since that connector has bunch of wires, I de-pined most of them, leaving only two (so in case I need to pin them back, it will be easier to know which side is which).
White wire, with black stripe, and black marks is the one.
And here is the right wire in that C302 connector.
Some changes in the software will need to be made.
Connect the unit like in "Flashing the correct firmware" section. If your alarm is already installed, you will need to disconnect all connectors before connecting it to the computer.
In "Features" tab, go to "Security" and enable the alarm. I disabled all "Chirping" options and set it so it flashes parking lights first before enabling the horn (if alarm is triggered) and disabled all motion detection stuff (like if somebody bumps the car alarms turns ON). I also changed alarm duration to 30 seconds.
Now alarm will work. If you go with my setting it will operate very close to factory setup.
There is couple things I noticed.
- despite being "2 way", my remote will not beep when alarm is activated. Maybe this remote doesn't support this function.
- if alarm is ever triggered, after unlocking the car with remote, parking lights will flash 4 times and horn will chirp couple times. This will happen every time you unlock until key is turned ON in ignition. If alarm is not triggered there is no sound. Guess this option is to let you know that alarm was activated. Normally I would disable it but there is no option.
Just installed mine today. The orange door lock wire seamed a bit short to run down to the fuse box connector. For anyone else doing this, That wire connects to the B-Can bus. The light green wire or the back of the wiper switch is also a B-Can wire and works just the same but is much closer.
Just installed mine today. The orange door lock wire seamed a bit short to run down to the fuse box connector. For anyone else doing this, That wire connects to the B-Can bus. The light green wire or the back of the wiper switch is also a B-Can wire and works just the same but is much closer.
How did you guys get successfully registered for software flashing access on the idatalink website?
There are six options, Car Dealership, 12volt Expeditor, 12volt Distributor, Freelance Installer, 12volt Retailler, and OEM Manufactrer.
Then there is the giant box going over how you must be a certified installer etc.
I am more than confident in my ability to wire it (although I will be using the t-harness) and install it as I have installed at least half a dozen other remote starts before but never a FirstTech product.
Any caveats or tips on it or do they just let anyone register no matter what?
How did you guys get successfully registered for software flashing access on the idatalink website?
There are six options, Car Dealership, 12volt Expeditor, 12volt Distributor, Freelance Installer, 12volt Retailler, and OEM Manufactrer.
Then there is the giant box going over how you must be a certified installer etc.
I am more than confident in my ability to wire it (although I will be using the t-harness) and install it as I have installed at least half a dozen other remote starts before but never a FirstTech product.
Any caveats or tips on it or do they just let anyone register no matter what?
I work in a shop as a technician specializing in 12v diagnostics, so I was able to register. They do NOT just let anyone register, however I do remember being able to flash via usb just fine without registering, The only thing I had to register for was to get my op500 firmware to update to work with the dc3. However that is more something that I needed for working on customers vehicles more so than my own, as USB flashing worked fine already.
I think I picked commercial address and car dealership and put some fake info (like 123A Streeeeett Ave.) and it went through. Just try whatever, and if it doesn't work then clear cookies and try on different email.
Or give them some random company's address or small local dealership.
I think I picked commercial address and car dealership and put some fake info (like 123A Streeeeett Ave.) and it went through. Just try whatever, and if it doesn't work then clear cookies and try on different email.
Or give them some random company's address or small local dealership.
Thanks for the quick reply was afraid to try it without knowing.
By chance would you know if the OEM acura remote unlocks doors while it is remotely started? I know from reading around here, on a lot of older remote starters including compustar+blade al integrations it seemed that the Honda remote receiver/immobilizer received a 12 volt on ignition position signal that disabled the remote functions. Looking at a couple of DC3 installs (but using HA3+ harnesses because they are newer vehicles) it seems to work. Im curious if the DC3 interprets this and works around it or if it still behaves the same way on the 3G TL's. Depending on whether it does or not will probably determine what kind of 2 way remote/interface I get for the winter. For the summer months, I was hoping to just hang on to the OEM remote and use the 3x lock to have it run for a minute or so walking up to it which is probably fine for warmer months, winter months I would carry the 2 way remote or subscribe to the drone LTE service.
Last edited by YJLTG-TLS; 12-16-2020 at 06:30 PM.
Reason: clarification on differences between new and old
I work in a shop as a technician specializing in 12v diagnostics, so I was able to register. They do NOT just let anyone register, however I do remember being able to flash via usb just fine without registering, The only thing I had to register for was to get my op500 firmware to update to work with the dc3. However that is more something that I needed for working on customers vehicles more so than my own, as USB flashing worked fine already.
From what i have researched and found online all the possible options on the DC3 can be programmed through usb and the OP500 is only required for the 7000+ units, correct?
From what i have researched and found online all the possible options on the DC3 can be programmed through usb and the OP500 is only required for the 7000+ units, correct?
Correct, you DO NOT need the op500 for this install.
Installed mine sucesfully. Hardest and most time consuming part was wrapping up the cables and grabbing the yellow cable from the OEM keyless module.
You will need the two wires from the M5 connector for OEM remote operation after its remote started as the install manual notes. After you takeover the remote start it does disable the keyless module just like oem so an accidental press doesn't open your trunk while going 75 mph down the highway.
Important note on M5 Connector: When you cut the yellow wire make sure the Grey/Red wire goes on the vehicle/harness side and the Grey/Black wire goes to the keyless module connector side. Other wise it won't ever disable the module even after takeover.
Also kept the alarm option on the DC3 disabled since in primarily using the OEM remote and tested it and the car alarm still functions/honks when triggered.
Also kept the alarm option on the DC3 disabled since in primarily using the OEM remote and tested it and the car alarm still functions/honks when triggered.
Maybe they did some update since I installed mine. Initially when I left alarm option disabled, I could lock the car with the remote, have red light at driver's door blinking, and then I could just pull on the lock and open the door, and nothing would happen. Opening the trunk or hood wouldn't trigger alarm as well.
Maybe, it may also be because I'm using the OEM remote so it still arms the factory alarm where using the Compustar may lock the doors but want to/assume the DC3 is being armed.
If you have time I would be curious if you could check yours for an update. I will check my version tomorrow and post it.
I am having two issues,
The car doesn't lock after remote starting, weirdly when testing after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery it started locking and would automatically rearm after cancelling until I unplugged it to move wires around more recently.
Secondly, although minor, the window power accessory delay remains on for the normal key off no door open timing of ten minutes when cancelling/shutting down a remote start. < This one I could care less about since it uses tiny amounts of power for the illumination lights in the switches.
I'm afraid that in order to check or update my unit I would need to disconnect everything and get is out of the car. One thing I learned from Windows is that if everything works fine, don't bother with updates. From my old screenshots, I'm running 2.7 and 3.2 respectively (vs yours 2.7 and 3.3). Update to the immobilizer unit probably won't do much.
I left my "Lock after start" to keep previous state - if car was locked before, lock it again, if unlocked then keep unlocked. I didn't really check any remote start cancel behavior as I didn't plan on it.
It was just one of the options. If I remember correctly there were three options, to keep unlocked, lock, and keep previous state. I just checked and my car does exactly that. I can't access settings without taking the module out and connecting it to the computer. I don't think they would remove it, so go slowly through every option and maybe you will find it.
As someone with ZERO car electronics experience looking to do this, did you need any kind of specialty tools to do this using the T harness? I have a soldering iron, some snips, and electrical tape but nothing else... Also for anyone looking to do this in 2022, the remote used is no longer available online without paying a ton extra for an LTE module, but the RF-2WR3-FM seems to be a cheaper replacement.
Stuff like this seems very intimidating imo, but sounds worth it.
As someone with ZERO car electronics experience looking to do this, did you need any kind of specialty tools to do this using the T harness? I have a soldering iron, some snips, and electrical tape but nothing else... Also for anyone looking to do this in 2022, the remote used is no longer available online without paying a ton extra for an LTE module, but the RF-2WR3-FM seems to be a cheaper replacement.
Stuff like this seems very intimidating imo, but sounds worth it.
If you have the basics for car electronics wiring then yes you will be fine, for full integrations you do want cut and splice the wire for the keyless module to still give you OEM remote control while remote started (otherwise it wont respond when ignition is on) however it works like factory, after you take over the remote start the remote is disabled again.
12-22-2019, 07:09 PM
