I searched the whole forum and read countless threads. Its not a surprise that the oem amp is noisy. My question is whole many ways can you bypass the factory amp? I know you can solder rca's to the speaker outputs of the amps and run it to the back, but are there any other ways to complete this task?

 

Thats how mine is.
Just do that and run the rca cables to a different amp.

Im sure you could tap the sub signal somehow, but it would probably be over complicated. Just bypass it.

 

uh oh...Caiman came off of his ban...watch out everybody...lol

Tap into the low level signal prior to the amp....

there is six channels of audio information going to the factory amp...

front L+R - Cut and Solder Female RCA ends
Rear L+R - Cut and Solder Female RCA Ends
Center Mono - LEAVE Connected to the factory amp if you wish to retain nav voice guidence
Sub Mono - Cut and solder Female RCA end

adjust your amplifiers accordingly...

-Jason

 

If you're not into cutting into your factory harness, check out this thread:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/quick-preview-my-system-project-747397/

Good Luck

 

haha i did, i did
you better watch it yourself, your not too far off from one either
but i wouldnt be banned if someone hadnt tattled on me for my PM

 

And by tap signal, I meant take the signal at the sub, and solder the RCA there.

Im not sure if this would work, but you could keep the factory sub and an aftermarket sub working this way (my factory sub is disconnected)

 

caiman you are wrong once again....it is ill advised to solder rca's to a high level signal...aka speaker wire

you're wrong once again...please refrain from posting false information that could cost these people their equipment....

-Jason

 

I'm not an audio guru, but from peoples experiences here this is the info I can provide:

You can tap the signal before the factory amplifier, however leave the center channel connected in order to remain proper HFL and navi prompts. As well if you have a TL-S you need to disconnect the mic's for the ANC system.

Solder your RCA's accordingly to the cables, the best way to do it is buy a female plug and run RCA's from that so you don't splice into the factory harness so you can revert it back to factory easily. Don't skim on the wire shrink nor on any of the cabling.

Run your RCA's back to wherever your amp's/processor will be and continue system like you normally would. Be advised that some stock HU's put out a very low signal while others put out a decent signal. Some folks will need a line driver while others may not, it just depends on when your radio was made or the tech. who made it...

 

man this thread turned out to be informative.

 

that's what acurazine is about my friend! We help each other out! Good luck on the audio install!

 

You, once again, show your lack of*cough* education, and the ability to read correctly.
It was a question. I said "im not sure if this would work"
I was merely stating a possible and easier alternative.
*clearly saying i dont know if this would work*
so biggiesmalls, thanks for answering my question. It will not work. (according to Jesus of car audio)

so basically, learn to read, and put context clues (2nd grade reading) together to further help out.

 

Good info. I made that mistake once...only once. Watch out for the 19yr old know it all he might get proven wrong again and start making e-threats.

 

Here we go again, smdh

 

Again, this is where your immaturity shows up. I simply have advised that they information was simply incorrect and you take it as a personal bash. It is called constructive criticism. Please learn to embrace it in life, as it appears that you are wrong quite often. This is not a bad thing to be wrong or incorrect. You've simply have not been informed correctly. This process of learning is why there are forums of this nature for people to share knowledge with one another.

Now the big boy thing would simply be to admit that you were wrong in your statement. And apologize for you in-accuracies. However you have chosen the wrong path. Hence you received the ban. Looks like you’re leading yourself down the same road again.

Thanks for playing,
-Jason

 

I'm done with the system. Just wanted to know a way to go around the light hiss that I am getting and its from the factory amp. My BitOne should be coming in pretty soon. Yay!!

 

which amplifiers have you chosen to run...


-Jason

 

Jason, I jus switched from a JL 450/4 to 2 HD 600, The fronts are the Utopia Be's, and the rears are the K2p UV. Front 3 ways will be Active.

 

Forgot to mention that the three ways were the reason why I wanted you to Fab up those Pillars for me.

 

gotcha...

yeah bud i simply don't even have time to work on my own stuff...

those amps are fairly quiet...adjust your gains accordingly...

start off with a good cd...

set all gains to minimum...

turn up the vol to 75 percent of max...in this case 30

adjust amps accordingly to the point of clipping and then back it down a cunt hair...lol

this will help alleviate a great majority of the noise by raising the amps above the noise floor...

next question...

did you end up going pre amp direct solder or did u go post amp with LOC?

-Jason

 

Okay, but will you answer the question for me?
What would happen if you spliced off the wires at the factory sub, and soldered RCAs to them, and ran it to another amp?

Cause you would be getting a signal, but it would be a signal that has already passed through one amp. Would the impedance from the factory amp mess with the aftermarket amp?


And would there be any way to do this? Cause if there was an easy way to do it, we wouldnt have to run miles of speaker wire down the side of the car from the factory amp. It would just be a straight shot from the factory amp.

 

depends on the amplifier...

the JL amps have a high and low input selecter switch that is dependendant on voltage...

this way you don't place to much voltage into the input circuit...this could push the output voltage way way above the safe operating voltage of the OUTPUT VOLTAGE RAIL...aka as clipping...this is a very unsafe practice on most amplifiers...some can hang...most cannot...

hope that explains that for you bud


-Jason

I hate cars i see you spying on this thread...the miracle box is outta the car again...better come and get it!!!

 

Thats actually the answer I was looking for.
This obviously isnt the way I did it, but if I had, would the kenwood be able to handle it?

and people dont bash kenwood lol i wasnt even going to put a sub in my car until my friend gave me the amp. And i had an extra kicker laying in my room so me and my friend put them both in.

 

dependent on which model of kenwood you installed..

and there is absolutely nothing wrong with anything in the kenwood product line...so bashing coming from my direction...

-Jason

 

Yeah, I'm here. I better head over there right now before you put it back in for a year lol.

 

CSWBiggs> Caiman

WB Matt!

 

The easy way...use a "AOEM-HON20"
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28

 

hey hey play nice...

we just teach the boy no biggies...hard lessons learned...but he is most definitely willing to listen...as I am willing to listen to him as well...

lol...

how ya been trew?

-Jason

 

Just been lurking lately. busy with work and family stuff. You know how the holidays are...

Been getting bored with my audio setup so I'm thinking of a new layout for the trunk. Stay tuned

 

Thanks. Welcome back yourself. I'm using the board up for everything it's worth right now. Probably going to take a long vacation until there's a change in moderators but in the meantime I'm postwhoring.

 

Jason, Im actually jus taking all the high input level out of the amp, and running them directly into the 3sixty.2 at the moment until the Bitone comes in.

If I can't get the noise out of the system, I will switch to direct solder of the female rca's into the PGHDD2 harness like that other link that is in this thread.

Jason, I have a pretty good question, The 3sixty.2 and Bitone Have this Deequalization process built in. What is the difference between Having the volume set at 30 compared to 26 for the deequalization process? The reason I am asking is that my JL 1000/1 doesn't have enough juice from the system to run efficiently beyound volume 26. My sub starts sounding lower at around 26 and up.

 

That actually would be good, but You are still missing the subwoofer output RCA's but if it had it, you would have a pretty good product.

 

Good point on the AOEM-HON20 Ya may want to contact http://www.pac-audio.com/ and see if they have one that will or if they will consider making a device that does. They are taping in to the same wire harness that I think has the sub woofer audio.

 

It would be great if someone would jus make that plug already with the RCA's already soldered on. Maybe a vendor would be interested in this.

One more question Jason, Does switching from low input voltage to high input voltage make a difference in overall sound? I currently have it on high right now to lower the hiss a bit.

 

I would be first in line for something like this. My soldering skills suck.

 

My soldering skills are very good. I just don't have the time
for it.

 

You guys know who you are, play nice. Don't even start anything stupid like you did in this thread, the admins have no problem doing perma bans.

 

the dequalization does work based on volume dependancy. because at different volumes the frequency response curve may differ from low volumes to high volumes...i suggest you go higher on the oem volume control...say 35...do the de-equalization and don't touch the factory volume...the bit one will now be your master volume control as well as fader/balance/non fader control as well...

now as for you low/high switch... the high setting is used for two situations....

1. You high level into the amplifer...aka solder RCA's to speaker wires...

2. You run a high voltage headunit that outputs over the recommend input on the pre-amp RCA's...

Nick...where r u located?

-Jason

 

Jason, Im located in Lafayette Louisiana. Is there anyway to use the factory OEM volume knob instead of the BitOne volume knob?

See heres the thing Jason, I was playing with the 3sixty.2 and what do you know, I normally play my music loud around 26 or 27. and I increased the gain on the 3sixty.2 until the led jus starts to blink red, and it sounds alot louder and pretty good Jason.

 

you most certainly can use the factory volume control...just remember that your reference volume is where the bit one applied its de equalization....also set everything to flat and centered before running the de eq...

0Jason

 

Interesting read.
The OEM amp HAS to be taken out of the equation. After noticing it, even the center channel ONLY powered by it had an annoying hiss I couldn't get myself to focus on anything else.

Also, just figured out that crappy speakers and no crossover is probably not going to give me good sound or full range. I just won a set of older Kicker Resolution 6.5 R6 set. Got a good deal, along with some deadener. A first for me, but I'm getting too old for jerry rigging things. I want it to sound, clean deep and full range. If the kickers don't do it for me, I'll resell on ebay and get the image dynamics I had been checking out.

I'm subscribing.
OP, have you considered the Audiocontrol EQS? Right now I bridged my 4 channel to 2 so that I can back the gain down and lower the sound floor. With the Audiocontrol matrix there was no hiss or white noise (I returned it with the intention of getting the EQS with equalization abilities...I felt dumb paying $200 for JUST a line driver). Anyway, for me, my HFL works fine without center channel so that's staying out. I don't have NAVI.