Bypassing Amp
Interesting read.
The OEM amp HAS to be taken out of the equation. After noticing it, even the center channel ONLY powered by it had an annoying hiss I couldn't get myself to focus on anything else.
Also, just figured out that crappy speakers and no crossover is probably not going to give me good sound or full range. I just won a set of older Kicker Resolution 6.5 R6 set. Got a good deal, along with some deadener. A first for me, but I'm getting too old for jerry rigging things. I want it to sound, clean deep and full range. If the kickers don't do it for me, I'll resell on ebay and get the image dynamics I had been checking out.
I'm subscribing.
OP, have you considered the Audiocontrol EQS? Right now I bridged my 4 channel to 2 so that I can back the gain down and lower the sound floor. With the Audiocontrol matrix there was no hiss or white noise (I returned it with the intention of getting the EQS with equalization abilities...I felt dumb paying $200 for JUST a line driver). Anyway, for me, my HFL works fine without center channel so that's staying out. I don't have NAVI.
The OEM amp HAS to be taken out of the equation. After noticing it, even the center channel ONLY powered by it had an annoying hiss I couldn't get myself to focus on anything else.
Also, just figured out that crappy speakers and no crossover is probably not going to give me good sound or full range. I just won a set of older Kicker Resolution 6.5 R6 set. Got a good deal, along with some deadener. A first for me, but I'm getting too old for jerry rigging things. I want it to sound, clean deep and full range. If the kickers don't do it for me, I'll resell on ebay and get the image dynamics I had been checking out.
I'm subscribing.
OP, have you considered the Audiocontrol EQS? Right now I bridged my 4 channel to 2 so that I can back the gain down and lower the sound floor. With the Audiocontrol matrix there was no hiss or white noise (I returned it with the intention of getting the EQS with equalization abilities...I felt dumb paying $200 for JUST a line driver). Anyway, for me, my HFL works fine without center channel so that's staying out. I don't have NAVI.
Jason, thanks alot for taking the time to answer some questions for me. Your Time is very much appreciated. Maybe someday I can return the favor!!
I ordered my PGHDD2 harness from Uncald for. Now Here is another Good question. I will solder the Female RCA's into the harness. Is it really important to use some Expensive RCA's or can some average ones work? Reason why I'm asking is its kinda pointless to cut up some expensive RCA's jus for the female section. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Racer
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Redondo Beach, Ca.
Why not just solder bare connectors onto the PGHDD2 harness?
http://www.cablestogo.com/product.as...latedItem=true
http://www.cablestogo.com/product.as...latedItem=true
Joined: Sep 2008
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Well my GOOD ones running to the back are Tsunami twisted and shielded, my sacrificial lambs to make my rca ends are all radioshack ones.
Jeez...the Bitone is so expensive.
Jeez...the Bitone is so expensive.
Im confused about connecting RCA to the head unit cables. If you have
RF+
RF-
LF+
LF-
Do you connect the positive and negative together and into 1 RCA? How does it work, im confused with this.
I mean if my amp only has 4 input, the total amount of rca coming from head unit would have 8 RCA out total, wouldnt it? How would i combine this to make it work with the amp?
Thanks in advance for the help.
RF+
RF-
LF+
LF-
Do you connect the positive and negative together and into 1 RCA? How does it work, im confused with this.
I mean if my amp only has 4 input, the total amount of rca coming from head unit would have 8 RCA out total, wouldnt it? How would i combine this to make it work with the amp?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Last edited by batista08; Jan 6, 2010 at 08:41 PM.
Joined: Sep 2008
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It takes a positive and a negative to make 1 RCA end (male or female).
So...
4 channels, plus center, plus sub...gives you...
12 wires...=6 RCA ends.
Tsunami doesn't sell the RCA's alone, I don't think. It was part of a 2 amp wiring kit I bought years ago.
So...
4 channels, plus center, plus sub...gives you...
12 wires...=6 RCA ends.
Tsunami doesn't sell the RCA's alone, I don't think. It was part of a 2 amp wiring kit I bought years ago.
Alright, I dig from a box of cables I have laying around and sliced a RCA cable and found two cables so that answers my question.
Rockstar143 I didn't see your post but after this post. Thanks
Now I read some where that using the signal coming straight from the head unit before the OEM amp is going to be too weak to provide good sound for the aftermarket amp, is this true?
Sorry for all the stupid questions but I plan to do my installation this weekend and Im trying to have everything go as smoothly as possible.
Rockstar143 I didn't see your post but after this post. Thanks
Now I read some where that using the signal coming straight from the head unit before the OEM amp is going to be too weak to provide good sound for the aftermarket amp, is this true?
Sorry for all the stupid questions but I plan to do my installation this weekend and Im trying to have everything go as smoothly as possible.
Last edited by batista08; Jan 6, 2010 at 09:14 PM.
How about some closeup pictures of the RCA plug itself with which wires going to their appropriate locations for all of us to see? That would help out alot!!
Joined: Sep 2008
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Hmmm...well, unfortunately all my stuff is already soldered and taped up so you wouldn't be able to see.
I CAN tell you the negative wire goes to the outside of the rca shield wire and the pos will be soldered to the center wire. Female or Male.
About the power...yes, IMO signal is a bit weak from the OEM headunit...but taking it AFTER the OEM amp is not an option for me as it was picking up major engine noise. So I took it out.
Just paid for a new Audiobahn line driver...$85 shipped on ebay...it's 4 channel and each channel is independent for boosting the signal from the headunit into the aftermarket amp. I will more than likely use the 1/2 channels to beef up signal to the new front components...leave the rears direct from the headunit...and use channel 3 for sub boost and maybe 4 for center channel.
Getting there...
Also, got an email from the sound deadener I ordered...the 50 Mil was out of stock so they upgraded me to the 80MIL for free. YES!
I CAN tell you the negative wire goes to the outside of the rca shield wire and the pos will be soldered to the center wire. Female or Male.
About the power...yes, IMO signal is a bit weak from the OEM headunit...but taking it AFTER the OEM amp is not an option for me as it was picking up major engine noise. So I took it out.
Just paid for a new Audiobahn line driver...$85 shipped on ebay...it's 4 channel and each channel is independent for boosting the signal from the headunit into the aftermarket amp. I will more than likely use the 1/2 channels to beef up signal to the new front components...leave the rears direct from the headunit...and use channel 3 for sub boost and maybe 4 for center channel.
Getting there...
Also, got an email from the sound deadener I ordered...the 50 Mil was out of stock so they upgraded me to the 80MIL for free. YES!
Hmmm...well, unfortunately all my stuff is already soldered and taped up so you wouldn't be able to see.
I CAN tell you the negative wire goes to the outside of the rca shield wire and the pos will be soldered to the center wire. Female or Male.
About the power...yes, IMO signal is a bit weak from the OEM headunit...but taking it AFTER the OEM amp is not an option for me as it was picking up major engine noise. So I took it out.
Just paid for a new Audiobahn line driver...$85 shipped on ebay...it's 4 channel and each channel is independent for boosting the signal from the headunit into the aftermarket amp. I will more than likely use the 1/2 channels to beef up signal to the new front components...leave the rears direct from the headunit...and use channel 3 for sub boost and maybe 4 for center channel.
Getting there...
Also, got an email from the sound deadener I ordered...the 50 Mil was out of stock so they upgraded me to the 80MIL for free. YES!
I CAN tell you the negative wire goes to the outside of the rca shield wire and the pos will be soldered to the center wire. Female or Male.
About the power...yes, IMO signal is a bit weak from the OEM headunit...but taking it AFTER the OEM amp is not an option for me as it was picking up major engine noise. So I took it out.
Just paid for a new Audiobahn line driver...$85 shipped on ebay...it's 4 channel and each channel is independent for boosting the signal from the headunit into the aftermarket amp. I will more than likely use the 1/2 channels to beef up signal to the new front components...leave the rears direct from the headunit...and use channel 3 for sub boost and maybe 4 for center channel.
Getting there...
Also, got an email from the sound deadener I ordered...the 50 Mil was out of stock so they upgraded me to the 80MIL for free. YES!
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,246
Likes: 20,200
Sounds like a plan.
Don't take this the wrong way but being older I will tell you that in most projects...rushing is the enemy.
Make a reasonable goal and stick to it. At this point I can take all my panels and center console apart in under 20 min. That's how many times I've done it. lol. And to begin with I would look for ANY way to avoid it!
But yeah, you can solder on your RCA ends to quick disconnects (the shielded kind to avoid any shorts) and cut and connect to the speaker wires at BEFORE going into the amp in the passenger kick panel. A LOT easier than having to get to the wires at the rear of the OEM headunit.
Plus, then it'll be easy to revert back to stock if you decide to. And also under the passenger kick panel is a good place to hide a line driver if you needed to. AND you can put try it before or after your RCA's to see if you want it up front or in the trunk with the amp.
J.
Don't take this the wrong way but being older I will tell you that in most projects...rushing is the enemy.
Make a reasonable goal and stick to it. At this point I can take all my panels and center console apart in under 20 min. That's how many times I've done it. lol. And to begin with I would look for ANY way to avoid it!
But yeah, you can solder on your RCA ends to quick disconnects (the shielded kind to avoid any shorts) and cut and connect to the speaker wires at BEFORE going into the amp in the passenger kick panel. A LOT easier than having to get to the wires at the rear of the OEM headunit.
Plus, then it'll be easy to revert back to stock if you decide to. And also under the passenger kick panel is a good place to hide a line driver if you needed to. AND you can put try it before or after your RCA's to see if you want it up front or in the trunk with the amp.
J.
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,246
Likes: 20,200
So...from the black plug on the amp (if I'm remembering right, this one is before)...
cut speakers wires...solder on (or crimp) some female shielded quick disconnects...then male shielded disconnects to your own speaker wire...then your own speaker wire soldered to your female RCA ends...then your GOOD RCA's run down the side to the rear to your amps.
Make sense?
cut speakers wires...solder on (or crimp) some female shielded quick disconnects...then male shielded disconnects to your own speaker wire...then your own speaker wire soldered to your female RCA ends...then your GOOD RCA's run down the side to the rear to your amps.
Make sense?
So...from the black plug on the amp (if I'm remembering right, this one is before)...
cut speakers wires...solder on (or crimp) some female shielded quick disconnects...then male shielded disconnects to your own speaker wire...then your own speaker wire soldered to your female RCA ends...then your GOOD RCA's run down the side to the rear to your amps.
Make sense?
cut speakers wires...solder on (or crimp) some female shielded quick disconnects...then male shielded disconnects to your own speaker wire...then your own speaker wire soldered to your female RCA ends...then your GOOD RCA's run down the side to the rear to your amps.
Make sense?
So a little update, I got my Bitone today. Couldn't wait to get off of work to install the damn thing. Well worth the money spent. Everything is wired up with the stock amp still in place. Tomorrow I will start working on the PGHDD2 Harness.
Joined: Sep 2008
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Oh wow...
so you're using the OEM amp in lieu of a line driver?
How much did you pay for it if you don't mind me asking. I saw them somewhere for over $600!
That would take me out of the category of "system on a budget". lol.
so you're using the OEM amp in lieu of a line driver?
How much did you pay for it if you don't mind me asking. I saw them somewhere for over $600!
That would take me out of the category of "system on a budget". lol.
Joined: Sep 2008
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Anything to make it cheaper.
Why do I remember reading somewhere that the OEM headunit signal was very flat and had it's own equalization?
Maybe it's wishful thinking?
Why do I remember reading somewhere that the OEM headunit signal was very flat and had it's own equalization?
Maybe it's wishful thinking?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,246
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Thanks Jason,
Not shocking to me that that tidbit came from an intelligent source.
Anyway, what ar your thoughts then?
I DO feel like I have to kick my gain up too much to get decent sound out of my speakers, which is why I jumped on that line driver (I know audiobahn is not known for being good quality, but for what it does...and for $85, I figured I couldn't go wrong).
I'm adding the line driver...deadening the doors...and putting in my Kicker Resolution R6 set up front. I'm hoping the sound will be good. Only thing I've been rethinking is whether or not I'll need an external equalization.
What's your feeling on OUR cars in particular. The headunit do a good enough job?
Not shocking to me that that tidbit came from an intelligent source.
Anyway, what ar your thoughts then?
I DO feel like I have to kick my gain up too much to get decent sound out of my speakers, which is why I jumped on that line driver (I know audiobahn is not known for being good quality, but for what it does...and for $85, I figured I couldn't go wrong).
I'm adding the line driver...deadening the doors...and putting in my Kicker Resolution R6 set up front. I'm hoping the sound will be good. Only thing I've been rethinking is whether or not I'll need an external equalization.
What's your feeling on OUR cars in particular. The headunit do a good enough job?
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 648
Likes: 2
From: Southern California
Thanks Jason,
Not shocking to me that that tidbit came from an intelligent source.
Anyway, what ar your thoughts then?
I DO feel like I have to kick my gain up too much to get decent sound out of my speakers, which is why I jumped on that line driver (I know audiobahn is not known for being good quality, but for what it does...and for $85, I figured I couldn't go wrong).
I'm adding the line driver...deadening the doors...and putting in my Kicker Resolution R6 set up front. I'm hoping the sound will be good. Only thing I've been rethinking is whether or not I'll need an external equalization.
What's your feeling on OUR cars in particular. The headunit do a good enough job?
Not shocking to me that that tidbit came from an intelligent source.
Anyway, what ar your thoughts then?
I DO feel like I have to kick my gain up too much to get decent sound out of my speakers, which is why I jumped on that line driver (I know audiobahn is not known for being good quality, but for what it does...and for $85, I figured I couldn't go wrong).
I'm adding the line driver...deadening the doors...and putting in my Kicker Resolution R6 set up front. I'm hoping the sound will be good. Only thing I've been rethinking is whether or not I'll need an external equalization.
What's your feeling on OUR cars in particular. The headunit do a good enough job?
i find that the stock headunit is more than capable of building off of...the less that you have in your signal path the better...
-Jason
Yea the oem amp is still there, I can honestly say I have very light to no hissing. Yea I paid over 600 for it. Audison is not for the budget hearted lol.
Joined: Sep 2008
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Really?
Hmmm...
Does anyone know how we can boost the signal from the ipod/XM? CD's will sound crisp and clear and my i-simple always sounds much lower. I guess it depends on the source I downloaded from?
Hmmm...
Does anyone know how we can boost the signal from the ipod/XM? CD's will sound crisp and clear and my i-simple always sounds much lower. I guess it depends on the source I downloaded from?
I'm not too sure on the XM part, but for the ipod you can actually go into Itunes and increase the output of all your music to where it would be louder in your car.
Joined: Sep 2008
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Yeah, but I'm rockin the i-simple via a piggy back to my AUX XM input. Sucks though because I can't have XM anymore because the i-simple makes the factory headunit bugout when set on XM mode.
I'll see how the system sounds with my line driver and good speakers up front. If it's good enough, I'll stop there. If not, both of those seem like viable options. You selling your 360 now that you got your received your Audison?
I'll see how the system sounds with my line driver and good speakers up front. If it's good enough, I'll stop there. If not, both of those seem like viable options. You selling your 360 now that you got your received your Audison?
Joined: Sep 2008
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I will. Thank you...depending on how my setup sounds with just the line driver I may be in the market for it.
Thank you for the offer! You HAVE to have a "palm" product to adjutst using the 360, right?
Thank you for the offer! You HAVE to have a "palm" product to adjutst using the 360, right?
Nope, not necessarily, you can tune it on a PC now, which is alot better than the Palm product. PM your email, I can send you the program for the 3sixty.2.
Joined: Sep 2008
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As will I. Nick, thanks again for the link and info. Good stuff.
I can't wait to get crackin on this. I love installing and playing with this stuff. I pray I don't need the 3.Sixty.2 cause it is cool and it would be awesome but I don't need to drop that kinda cash right now. BUT...if I do end up getting it, it doesn't boost signal, right? It's a processor but not a line driver, right? So the audiobahn driver won't be a waste no matter what.
I can't wait to get crackin on this. I love installing and playing with this stuff. I pray I don't need the 3.Sixty.2 cause it is cool and it would be awesome but I don't need to drop that kinda cash right now. BUT...if I do end up getting it, it doesn't boost signal, right? It's a processor but not a line driver, right? So the audiobahn driver won't be a waste no matter what.
Thanks Jason,
Not shocking to me that that tidbit came from an intelligent source.
Anyway, what ar your thoughts then?
I DO feel like I have to kick my gain up too much to get decent sound out of my speakers, which is why I jumped on that line driver (I know audiobahn is not known for being good quality, but for what it does...and for $85, I figured I couldn't go wrong).
I'm adding the line driver...deadening the doors...and putting in my Kicker Resolution R6 set up front. I'm hoping the sound will be good. Only thing I've been rethinking is whether or not I'll need an external equalization.
What's your feeling on OUR cars in particular. The headunit do a good enough job?
Not shocking to me that that tidbit came from an intelligent source.
Anyway, what ar your thoughts then?
I DO feel like I have to kick my gain up too much to get decent sound out of my speakers, which is why I jumped on that line driver (I know audiobahn is not known for being good quality, but for what it does...and for $85, I figured I couldn't go wrong).
I'm adding the line driver...deadening the doors...and putting in my Kicker Resolution R6 set up front. I'm hoping the sound will be good. Only thing I've been rethinking is whether or not I'll need an external equalization.
What's your feeling on OUR cars in particular. The headunit do a good enough job?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,246
Likes: 20,200
http://www.shipsound.com/product_inf...ucts_id=100767
It's not on ebay anymore because I bought the only one the guy had. Here's the next best price. I think at this price though I would possibly CONSIDER the audiocontrol matrix. That was a good product...but it's $200. I wanted to get an opinion on the EQS, but that's $350 and now we're talking real money so I am up in the air on it.
It's not on ebay anymore because I bought the only one the guy had. Here's the next best price. I think at this price though I would possibly CONSIDER the audiocontrol matrix. That was a good product...but it's $200. I wanted to get an opinion on the EQS, but that's $350 and now we're talking real money so I am up in the air on it.
Ok, So I made the harness with the female connectors. In my case it did solve the low hiss problem, now i have another question. I have every installed. Now do I turn the gain up all the way on the amp and go with the low output of bitone? or do I turn up the output on the bitone all the way up and adjust the gains on the amp accordingly?
Joined: Sep 2008
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I've always been advised to turn up the gain (as far up as possible without adding white noise) on line driver, LOC, etc...and then work your way back to your amps. Even if it means the amps are set super low. Supposedly, having a higher signal back and lower gains on the amp will give cleaner stronger sound.