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I failed to mention in the summary that certain HFL failure modes can cause the battery to fail after a day or two of no use because the HFL stays powered on the entire time. Easy solution is to disconnect the HFL module until it can be repaired or replaced.
Also failed to mention that to test the HFL hold both HFL buttons on the wheel for 10 seconds - it will tell you over the speakers the status of the module (but beware - it does not seem to be very accurate - mine said all was normal but it would not pair)
Not sure if you have done a little searching but, there are several on eBay for realistic prices if you'd like to get another one.
I would be VERY hesitant to buy one off ebay as it will be used and you never know how old it is or how long it will last, plus the prices are not that great considering the risk. If you are having issues with your HFL, you will need to replace it with an OEM one or aftermarket, period.
Last edited by eastcoastguy; Aug 23, 2015 at 11:02 PM.
Reason: quote did not work
The last time i checked was about a year ago when my HFL on my 07 TL-S stopped working. I noticed on cold mornings, my windshield had a hot spot by the HFL unit. I touched the HFL cover/panel and it was very warm. I disconnected it about a year ago and I remember I was debating to spend $180. Now that it is 235-238, I give up. I can live without the damn thing!
I havent been able to find this for certain, but are the base and type-s HFL's interchangeable? I have read somewhere that they are not, but i needed to double check. Anyone know?
I havent been able to find this for certain, but are the base and type-s HFL's interchangeable?
IDK, but suspect that there would be different part numbers for the base and TL-S HFL if that was not the case.
However, I only recall seeing different HFL part numbers based on interior color, and not between TL variants, on the vendors' sites.
I removed the Bluetooth module from above my map lights. The Bluetooth failed several months ago and in hind site probably is what killed my battery. I found a repair site on an earlier thread. I called them spoke with Joel who he told me to send it down and for $45 they would repair module and send it back. Attached you will find original thread with repair sites mailing address. Bluetooth works great and I didn't have to reload phone book. Thanks acurazine foe saving me hundreds of dollars.
I found a repair site on an earlier thread. I called them spoke with Joel who he told me to send it down and for $45 they would repair module and send it back. Attached you will find original thread with repair sites mailing address.
Thanks for pointing this out, I guess I just passed over it before, it may be the perfect solution to the issue. Do you just call and say you need it repaired? Do they offer any warranty, etc.?
Hi,
I've posted much earlier that we can replace the cap.
We have had several boards come in and the cap was fine.
The problem is the type of chips used is a ball solder type chip, where
the chip rests on balls of solder. With age and flexing, this type of
joint is bound to fail.
We do oven reflows (first removing the plastic connector) with
oven reflow flux (or acid to clean solder joints). This is a critical step.
I would not do this step in a regular oven that will be used for food later.
We also use a specific temperature profile for solder reflows.
Several weak spots are also reinforced with more solder.
If you would like to give it a shot, you can send to :
Godin Technologies
795 Commerce Dr Ste 3
Venice FL 34292
Price is $45 flat rate.
Regards
Joel
941-773-3848
Hi Joel do you still do these repairs? Mine just started intermittently working in my '05 TL also seems to stay on killing my car's battery sometimes.
Hi Joel do you still do these repairs? Mine just started intermittently working in my '05 TL also seems to stay on killing my car's battery sometimes.
He hasn't posted in a year but he does still repair these. He has mine currently. Box yours up, enclose a check made out to Godin Technologies for $45 and he will repair it and send it back.
My issue with buying a new is it's still the same crap module. How long will it really last before it fails again...
Well if the original one lasted 8 years, i figure if I buy a new one and it lasts 8 years i'm ok with that, plus I probably wont have the car anymore.
If you go another route, the USA-Spec BT45ACU might be an option. Love the fact that it just plugs into the XM module in the trunk. Soo easy and simple! Screw messin with the dash!
The hfl in my 2007 mdx just stopped working. Glad i read this thread. $700 to fix a small, inexpensive defective part. Unacceptable. I've had several problems like this with my Acura. I impeccably maintain the car. I'll buy a Toyota SUV next time.
The hfl in my 2007 mdx just stopped working. Glad i read this thread. $700 to fix a small, inexpensive defective part. Unacceptable. I've had several problems like this with my Acura. I impeccably maintain the car. I'll buy a Toyota SUV next time.
Disgusted. Acura should respond to this.
Mike Wilkes
650 868 4409 mobile
I think they know about the faulty hfl but refuse to do anything about it if you're out of warranty. I wish they would take care of it for acura owners knowing they have a faulty module that drains the battery.
The hfl in my 2007 mdx just stopped working. Glad i read this thread. $700 to fix a small, inexpensive defective part. Unacceptable. I've had several problems like this with my Acura. I impeccably maintain the car. I'll buy a Toyota SUV next time.
Disgusted. Acura should respond to this.
Mike Wilkes
650 868 4409 mobile
You could probably fix the part yourself for not a lot of money. Check into the options. If Acura doesnt help thats why we help ourselves here!
I recently tried to use the Bluetooth on my 08 TL-S and realized it wasnt working. The one from my 08 TL was, so I swapped them and now the TL-S has Bluetooth. I was getting the "HFL booting up" message from the faulty unit before the swap
I just repaired mine. And all the information and links are put in a BLOG for everyone to use with larger pictures, instead of having to read through tens and tens of pages like I had to. Please give me all your feed back via PM to fix the BLOG if you noticed anything I have said that is incorrect.
Anyway, just like everyone else on this forum, I was getting the BOOTING UP message and the area was warm. My battery is OK however my battery is only 2 months old. Probably the 4th battery and second alternator in my 2006 ACURA TL.
Keep in mind I have not soldered anything since I made my TV PONG Game back in 1980s. I never repair anything on my car, always at the dealer, I cant even change my oil. So if I did it, anyone can do it.
Disclaimer: I take no responsibility that this may work for you or not. I take no responsibility for any damaged caused to your car or any harm to you. If you don't agree, stop reading.
I bought the 220uF 25V high temp capacitor from my local frys electronics store for $1.49. I also bought a solder gun for $4.99 because I didn't have one. I also "picked up" about 1" of solder iron from the trash on the floor carpet at the electronics store near where they had all types of solder wire on the shelf (lol). Here is the
It still does not pair with my Galaxy S4 or S5. Thats ACURA's issue and they wont fix it. Neither would Samsung whose overpriced phones are not backwards compatible probably because they are too cheap to pay for licensing of older Bluetooth.
I wanted to thank everyone on this thread for their support and photos!
Here are the pictures of my 20 minute fix (yes, just 20 minutes, the actual soldering was only 1 minute, time was mainly going up and down the elevator in our building):
Step 1. Remove the black piece containing the lights and sunroof switch (I think Microphone is in this as well). There are lots of videos on youtube on how to pry this open, there are no screws. Push the tiny button and unplug the two black and green connectors.
Step 2. Then remove the 4 screws that hold the trim piece in. Push the tiny button to unplug the green connector from the bluetooth module. The plastic trim and the Bluetooth module are BOTH considered one item in ACURA's part list. This was super confusing to me. So buying on eBay be careful about what exactly you are buying, some sell the plastic trim under that name, some sell the bluetooth module under that name. Also if your interior is BLACK there is no black, you have to buy the GREY (not beige etc) they all have different model numbers.
Step 3. Remove the cover using a T10 screw driver for the 3 screws. I guess they used a weird T10 screw to remind you this is all once ACURA part number, the plastic and the bluetooth is one unit. Sush a dumb marketing oriented engineering while the MIC is not a part of this. Also, another marketing trick by ACURA, as you can see in the photo my exact model number is 83251-SEP-A021AA which is much easier to locate and much cheaper on eBay sometimes as low as $45 sold. But when I called ACURA the rep told me a different model number, probably newer, harder to find a used one on eBay, the more expensive 39770-SEP-A02ZA. Dont know what the difference is. Maybe the new one can sync with Samsung Galaxy Sx models? Well mine still doesnt even after repair, it never finds it.
Step 4. Remove the daughter board by pulling it up.
Step 5. The daughter board has already been removed in this picture. It just pulls off easily. Now time to remove the metal capacitor, the culprit. Rock the existing capacitor gently back and forth like I have shown in the picture and it will just lift off the board. Keep the rubber insulation on top.
Step 6. See the two spots marked on the board? That's where the new capacitor will get installed onto. The bad capacitor has been removed and sitting up in the photo. As you can see I have also removed the rubber insulation on top.
Step 7. Bend the legs on the capacitor and cut them as shown. One leg shorter than the other one. Note which leg is closer to the WHITE STRIP on the capacitor. The longer leg is the one by the white strip. This is important!
Step 8. Solder the capacitor on the board. I did it really quick, I don't know what heat could do to the rest of the stuff on the board so the solder gun only hit the board 2-3 seconds at most. See the connections made on the on the capacitor legs:
Step 9. Place the daughter board back on, push it all the way through. Place the two boards back in the plastic trim. Watch out for the clip I marked by the arrow. This board does not get screwed on. Then put the black cover back on and put the three screws back on with the T10 screws.
Step 10. Go back to the car, plug in the bluetooth green connector, screw the grey trim back in the car with 4 hex screw. Plug in the black connector and pop in the black piece that holds the lights. Lastly, plug in the green connector and put the sunroof switch back on.
Hello all,
I recently just got my (new to me) 07 type-s and found out the hfl is not working.
So I opened up the plastic trim and saw the hfl box.
But right next to the hfl box there's another box that's screwed in and connected to another cable.
So is this normal? I saw some videos and I don't see anything in there like that.
So I bit the bullet and just bought a new HFL for my 07 tl-s. It works great. But this past weekend when I did not drive my car for 2 days, it drained my battery...
Now I'm thinking about putting a kill switch for the HFL when I'm not driving or using the HFL. Any thoughts?
I talked to Joel today and he says out of 50 repairs he only knows one case where it didn't fix the issue. I'll be sending mine out this week! Thanks for the info guys
2007 MDX HFL failure
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