Bluetooth Fails
#481
Hands FreeLink has a phone. # and they are helpful. 888-528-7876. I had my HFL replaced last month by dealer. Total cost for parts and service was about $350 ($125 was for the service portion). Not something I could do on my own, but that is me. My car is a 2007 TL. From the posts I have seen it seems like HFL seems to fail after about 5 years...
#482
Advanced
Canadian models
Hi Guys,
I just learned today that Canadian models have different kind of HFL modules, I was really hoping to get it from the States for less than $200.
If you can believe it, Acura is selling it up here for almost $500 (tax included), I am not surprised no more.
For my fellows Canadians (and not only), do you guys know how to adapt the American HFL model to the Canadian HFL connector?
Thanks.
Catalin
I just learned today that Canadian models have different kind of HFL modules, I was really hoping to get it from the States for less than $200.
If you can believe it, Acura is selling it up here for almost $500 (tax included), I am not surprised no more.
For my fellows Canadians (and not only), do you guys know how to adapt the American HFL model to the Canadian HFL connector?
Thanks.
Catalin
#484
Advanced
But also, there is no way I will pay $500 on a HFL board which I only use it for my cell hands free.
If I cannot figure out a way to adapt the US model to my car's wirring, then I will look into buying a Canadian used module, they are ~$200 on ebay, but I would prefer new....
Catalin
#485
Acura TL 2006 HFL not recognizing (seeing/pairing) phones
I have a 2006 Acura TL and I read on a blog that you have to reset the hands-free link while the car is running-I Just tried this and it works!!! Thank you.
To do this: The console that has the map lights pries down with a small screw driver -(See YouTube videos for instructions on how to do this) Will need an 8 mm wrench to get to the HFL Bluetooth unit - remove the hands-free link module -While still plugged in, next remove the two boards that are connected, rejoin boards and tape it together with electrical tape, put back together...the phone icon should appear and you ready to start the pairing process with your phone -Don't know why this works but it saved me $200 and not having to buy a new HFL unit for the car...my thanks to the original poster for giving me the answer !!
To do this: The console that has the map lights pries down with a small screw driver -(See YouTube videos for instructions on how to do this) Will need an 8 mm wrench to get to the HFL Bluetooth unit - remove the hands-free link module -While still plugged in, next remove the two boards that are connected, rejoin boards and tape it together with electrical tape, put back together...the phone icon should appear and you ready to start the pairing process with your phone -Don't know why this works but it saved me $200 and not having to buy a new HFL unit for the car...my thanks to the original poster for giving me the answer !!
#486
Need Link
I did in fact take some photos of the module:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=mjmclendon&target=ALBUM&id=5534950078 261825233&authkey=Gv1sRgCK3f5ILx4PScDg&invite=COHj 7KsI&feat=email
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=mjmclendon&target=ALBUM&id=5534950078 261825233&authkey=Gv1sRgCK3f5ILx4PScDg&invite=COHj 7KsI&feat=email
#487
I have a 2006 Acura TL and I read on a blog that you have to reset the hands-free link while the car is running-I Just tried this and it works!!! Thank you.
To do this: The console that has the map lights pries down with a small screw driver -(See YouTube videos for instructions on how to do this) Will need an 8 mm wrench to get to the HFL Bluetooth unit - remove the hands-free link module -While still plugged in, next remove the two boards that are connected, rejoin boards and tape it together with electrical tape, put back together...the phone icon should appear and you ready to start the pairing process with your phone -Don't know why this works but it saved me $200 and not having to buy a new HFL unit for the car...my thanks to the original poster for giving me the answer !!
To do this: The console that has the map lights pries down with a small screw driver -(See YouTube videos for instructions on how to do this) Will need an 8 mm wrench to get to the HFL Bluetooth unit - remove the hands-free link module -While still plugged in, next remove the two boards that are connected, rejoin boards and tape it together with electrical tape, put back together...the phone icon should appear and you ready to start the pairing process with your phone -Don't know why this works but it saved me $200 and not having to buy a new HFL unit for the car...my thanks to the original poster for giving me the answer !!
#488
Racer
the hfl on my 08 tl-s just crapped out on me tonight, had to disconnect it since i feared a dead battery by morning... was stuck booting up in mid.. hoping i can take it to the dealer since i bought the car not too long ago.. hopefully they can do something..
#490
Advanced
did u leave the engine on during this process?
#491
#492
Advanced
Can u pls do this and tell us how it went?
#493
2nd Gear
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Bobcaygeon, Ontario, Canada
Age: 65
Posts: 2
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Thanks for posting a solution 'mmclendon'. I have a 07 mdx and recently the battery drained 2x overnight so I replaced it. The new one has just drained so I will go after the HFL.
#494
Just a note, my hfl doesn't say booting up. The diagnostic test says that hfl is ok. It's just not connecting to any phones.
#495
Registered but harmless
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Age: 59
Posts: 14,842
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2) Will the HFL go into set-up mode?
If "yes" to both of those, check your phones for compatibility through the Acura HFL website.
If each phone is compatible, make sure each phone is in "search" or "discovery" mode when setting up the HFL. A working HFL should guide you through the connection process, although it's also covered in the owner's manual.
G/L.
The following users liked this post:
thorws (04-09-2013)
#496
1) When you press the HFL button, does it say "No phones found"?
2) Will the HFL go into set-up mode?
If "yes" to both of those, check your phones for compatibility through the Acura HFL website.
If each phone is compatible, make sure each phone is in "search" or "discovery" mode when setting up the HFL. A working HFL should guide you through the connection process, although it's also covered in the owner's manual.
G/L.
2) Will the HFL go into set-up mode?
If "yes" to both of those, check your phones for compatibility through the Acura HFL website.
If each phone is compatible, make sure each phone is in "search" or "discovery" mode when setting up the HFL. A working HFL should guide you through the connection process, although it's also covered in the owner's manual.
G/L.
#497
Advanced
Thanks for the suggestion. Everything seems to check out. Still, I tried all the methods for my phones (HTC One X and Samsung S3) and none of them worked. They worked when I first bought the car ~4 months ago. Then one night the hfl started to act up and frequently disconnect my phone. It no longer connects to anything now though. Also, I tried different firmwares for both phones (official and custom firmwares, even the firmware that worked before) and it didn't work. But then last week my phones found the hfl somehow, got it connected for several minutes, and it has been silent since then.
I also tried my old iphone I used to have and no luck with that either.
I would spend $180 on it, no problem, but my problem is that, here in Canada, they have different connector type, so I can't buy it from US, and there is no way I pay $500 which they ask up here.
Catalin
#498
Same here. My module is booting up just fine, it started to disconnect while on the call, then more and more often, when, after couple of days I couldn't link it to the HFL any more.
I also tried my old iphone I used to have and no luck with that either.
I would spend $180 on it, no problem, but my problem is that, here in Canada, they have different connector type, so I can't buy it from US, and there is no way I pay $500 which they ask up here.
Catalin
I also tried my old iphone I used to have and no luck with that either.
I would spend $180 on it, no problem, but my problem is that, here in Canada, they have different connector type, so I can't buy it from US, and there is no way I pay $500 which they ask up here.
Catalin
#499
Advanced
I have settled with this for the time being: Amazon.com: Belkin Bluetooth Car Hands-Free Kit for Apple iPod, Apple iPhone, BlackBerry,and Android Smartphones, US Version: MP3 Players & Accessories
It streams both calls and media. And it also works by voice activation on my phones (press the device once to activate and say the person's name) The call quality is not bad, the mic works fine. I've tested it on freeway and local roads and everyone I've talked to said that I sounded clear. Downside though, the in-call volume in the car is outrageous. It sounds distorted and super loud on my end, and I've not figured out a way to reduce it to an acceptable level. If you don't wanna pay that crazy 500 bucks, then I think this may be an option. I routed the wire under the center console so only the circle device is visible.
It streams both calls and media. And it also works by voice activation on my phones (press the device once to activate and say the person's name) The call quality is not bad, the mic works fine. I've tested it on freeway and local roads and everyone I've talked to said that I sounded clear. Downside though, the in-call volume in the car is outrageous. It sounds distorted and super loud on my end, and I've not figured out a way to reduce it to an acceptable level. If you don't wanna pay that crazy 500 bucks, then I think this may be an option. I routed the wire under the center console so only the circle device is visible.
#500
Racer
I have an appointment this friday at the dealer to diagnose my HFL.. my CPO is over but i have an aftermarket extended warranty through Zurich (Yes, i didn't know any better). Acura wants $130 to "diagnose" the problem, and they called Zurich and said it was covered (both service manager and i was surprised since he said they usually don't..) so i'm gonna go ahead and try.. hopefully they cover the HFL unit aswell.. fingers crossed!
#501
oh, got it. I have an 05 with isimple so I hooked it up to isimple aux port. total came out to be the same price as a new hfl unit but with the addition of media streaming support.
#502
Racer
i just got my HFL replaced under my extended warranty (Zurich), everything was covered! i was expecting to fight since i realized aftermarket warranties arent that great AFTER i bought it.. but seems to have worked for this. So im glad..
#503
Advanced
Hey guys,
Just wanted to let everybody know that I fixed my malfunctioning module by doing this
http://www.addictivetips.com/hardwar...aking-in-oven/
Results are not guaranteed.
Just wanted to let everybody know that I fixed my malfunctioning module by doing this
http://www.addictivetips.com/hardwar...aking-in-oven/
Results are not guaranteed.
However, it last no longer than 2 minutes after which it disconnected again.
Can some one with a good working HFL state if it feels warm when touching the windshield from outside, where the HFL module is, or from inside, on the plastic trim in between the Home-link buttons and the windshield?
Thanks.
Last edited by Acuralin; 04-15-2013 at 10:37 AM. Reason: typo
#504
Registered but harmless
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Age: 59
Posts: 14,842
Received 1,102 Likes
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This is with an HFL that replaced the original one in summer 2011.
#505
Advanced
#507
I fixed mine thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread!!
I finally fixed mine! (I just hope it stays fixed!) Ok, after some thorough troubleshooting, and lots of reading on this thread, I decided to bake my handsfree bluetooth link in the damn oven!! I know, it may sound crazy, but it worked!
Here is how I came to my wacky conclusion: After reading and reading, dang near everyones hfl at one point or another stopped working, wheather it be altogether dead, on, but not responding, or, like mine, on, responding, but not pairing. This was my 3rd go at it, and I'm stubborn, so I really wanted to figure out if there was ANY way to fix it instead of paying for a new one when CLEARLY Acura should be footing the bill for this obvious design flaw of this SAFETY feature. I took the hf assy out of the bezel, let it hang down and gently pushed, pulled, held, bent, twisted, turned, & tilted it, all the while trying to pair my droid 4 (and my gf's BB). My steering wheel controls would sometimes stop responding altogether during this process. I connected and disconected the green connector, pulled apart the 2 circuit boards (numerous times), which sometimes got me back the steering wheel control buttons, but NEVER successfully paired either phone. THEN, I discovered that when I put pressure on the capacitor on the larger circuit board, (this is the 'infamous' cap that many have replaced) the hfl 'woke up' and made this wierd scratchy noise. (still didn't work, but it reacted when I held slight pressure on it sideways) I thought I had it there, but still couldn't get it to work. Then I moved one spot over to the coil? power supply? next to it. Again, when I held slight pressure on it, the hfl reacted, still not working, but really got me thinking about another post that I read about on here about solder joints. I thought to myself, "self, this could definitely be the problem!" So, I remembered reading (to many posts on this thread, I can't find it again now!) that some folks had luck repairing all types of electronics by baking (or heating with a heat gun) the circuit board(s). This seemed to make sense in this case, as you would not be able to see a tiny, hairline, intermittant bad solder joint on these boards, and when I held pressure on certain components, I had varying results. So, I figured what the heck do I have to lose, it doesn't work now. I like the oven idea much better than the heat gun because the oven would provide even heating as opposed to the directional heating of the gun. I put aluminum foil on a cookie sheet, made little foil 'balls' to raise the boards up off the sheet for even heating and placed the 2 in the preheated 385 degree oven for 9 minutes. I don't know why, but I placed another piece of foil, like a cover over the 2 boards, (not touching the boards) but I didn't want the heat going directly on them, just evenly around them. The idea that the solder would melt and 'reconnect', repairing any potentially bad solder joints seemed to just make sense, and what do you know, IT WORKED! I plugged it back in and it went to the setup menu, then to the phone setup menu, and bam, paired up immediately! She's still hanging there but I talked on it for about 2 hours, 1 hour on my way to work and other hour on the way home. This MIGHT actually explain why some people had good results replacing the cap and some didn't. The cap may not have not necessarily been the cause, it may have been the cap's solder joint or a faulty solder joint of another component.
I really hope some of you have some luck baking your bluetooth! Make some brownies while you're at it! I will try to keep checking in to answer any questions and see if anyone else has any luck with this.
Here is how I came to my wacky conclusion: After reading and reading, dang near everyones hfl at one point or another stopped working, wheather it be altogether dead, on, but not responding, or, like mine, on, responding, but not pairing. This was my 3rd go at it, and I'm stubborn, so I really wanted to figure out if there was ANY way to fix it instead of paying for a new one when CLEARLY Acura should be footing the bill for this obvious design flaw of this SAFETY feature. I took the hf assy out of the bezel, let it hang down and gently pushed, pulled, held, bent, twisted, turned, & tilted it, all the while trying to pair my droid 4 (and my gf's BB). My steering wheel controls would sometimes stop responding altogether during this process. I connected and disconected the green connector, pulled apart the 2 circuit boards (numerous times), which sometimes got me back the steering wheel control buttons, but NEVER successfully paired either phone. THEN, I discovered that when I put pressure on the capacitor on the larger circuit board, (this is the 'infamous' cap that many have replaced) the hfl 'woke up' and made this wierd scratchy noise. (still didn't work, but it reacted when I held slight pressure on it sideways) I thought I had it there, but still couldn't get it to work. Then I moved one spot over to the coil? power supply? next to it. Again, when I held slight pressure on it, the hfl reacted, still not working, but really got me thinking about another post that I read about on here about solder joints. I thought to myself, "self, this could definitely be the problem!" So, I remembered reading (to many posts on this thread, I can't find it again now!) that some folks had luck repairing all types of electronics by baking (or heating with a heat gun) the circuit board(s). This seemed to make sense in this case, as you would not be able to see a tiny, hairline, intermittant bad solder joint on these boards, and when I held pressure on certain components, I had varying results. So, I figured what the heck do I have to lose, it doesn't work now. I like the oven idea much better than the heat gun because the oven would provide even heating as opposed to the directional heating of the gun. I put aluminum foil on a cookie sheet, made little foil 'balls' to raise the boards up off the sheet for even heating and placed the 2 in the preheated 385 degree oven for 9 minutes. I don't know why, but I placed another piece of foil, like a cover over the 2 boards, (not touching the boards) but I didn't want the heat going directly on them, just evenly around them. The idea that the solder would melt and 'reconnect', repairing any potentially bad solder joints seemed to just make sense, and what do you know, IT WORKED! I plugged it back in and it went to the setup menu, then to the phone setup menu, and bam, paired up immediately! She's still hanging there but I talked on it for about 2 hours, 1 hour on my way to work and other hour on the way home. This MIGHT actually explain why some people had good results replacing the cap and some didn't. The cap may not have not necessarily been the cause, it may have been the cap's solder joint or a faulty solder joint of another component.
I really hope some of you have some luck baking your bluetooth! Make some brownies while you're at it! I will try to keep checking in to answer any questions and see if anyone else has any luck with this.
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#508
I was so excited I forgot to mention the vehicle!
FYI, my car is a 2005 TL with Nav. I really don't think it matters as it might be a flaw by the manufacturer or possibly the high heat conditions of where it is mounted? idk, but hopefully it saves someone some hard earned $...
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glennjr15 (01-03-2014)
#509
Advanced
I also baked the modules and it started working but it is on and off, sometimes the modules keep booting for 10 minutes until it pairs with the phone, also it sometimes gets disconnected during the call...
Thanks.
#510
Update
Yes, of course I will update the 'fix'.
What temp did you bake your modules and for how long?
I don't remember where I wound up reading about the temp & time. I just kept clicking and reading, and clicking on another link and reading & that led to another post, & so on... I would think that even the way you place the boards on the cookie sheet and where you place the foil 'balls' would make a big difference, as if you were to put the boards in the oven upside down without the foil balls underneath certain components to support them, you could have components dropping right out of the board, or creating an intermittant connection instead of fixing one... again, idk anything about this, I'm just looking at it from a common sense point of view...
What temp did you bake your modules and for how long?
I don't remember where I wound up reading about the temp & time. I just kept clicking and reading, and clicking on another link and reading & that led to another post, & so on... I would think that even the way you place the boards on the cookie sheet and where you place the foil 'balls' would make a big difference, as if you were to put the boards in the oven upside down without the foil balls underneath certain components to support them, you could have components dropping right out of the board, or creating an intermittant connection instead of fixing one... again, idk anything about this, I'm just looking at it from a common sense point of view...
#513
I finally fixed mine! (I just hope it stays fixed!) Ok, after some thorough troubleshooting, and lots of reading on this thread, I decided to bake my handsfree bluetooth link in the damn oven!! I know, it may sound crazy, but it worked!
Here is how I came to my wacky conclusion: After reading and reading, dang near everyones hfl at one point or another stopped working, wheather it be altogether dead, on, but not responding, or, like mine, on, responding, but not pairing. This was my 3rd go at it, and I'm stubborn, so I really wanted to figure out if there was ANY way to fix it instead of paying for a new one when CLEARLY Acura should be footing the bill for this obvious design flaw of this SAFETY feature. I took the hf assy out of the bezel, let it hang down and gently pushed, pulled, held, bent, twisted, turned, & tilted it, all the while trying to pair my droid 4 (and my gf's BB). My steering wheel controls would sometimes stop responding altogether during this process. I connected and disconected the green connector, pulled apart the 2 circuit boards (numerous times), which sometimes got me back the steering wheel control buttons, but NEVER successfully paired either phone. THEN, I discovered that when I put pressure on the capacitor on the larger circuit board, (this is the 'infamous' cap that many have replaced) the hfl 'woke up' and made this wierd scratchy noise. (still didn't work, but it reacted when I held slight pressure on it sideways) I thought I had it there, but still couldn't get it to work. Then I moved one spot over to the coil? power supply? next to it. Again, when I held slight pressure on it, the hfl reacted, still not working, but really got me thinking about another post that I read about on here about solder joints. I thought to myself, "self, this could definitely be the problem!" So, I remembered reading (to many posts on this thread, I can't find it again now!) that some folks had luck repairing all types of electronics by baking (or heating with a heat gun) the circuit board(s). This seemed to make sense in this case, as you would not be able to see a tiny, hairline, intermittant bad solder joint on these boards, and when I held pressure on certain components, I had varying results. So, I figured what the heck do I have to lose, it doesn't work now. I like the oven idea much better than the heat gun because the oven would provide even heating as opposed to the directional heating of the gun. I put aluminum foil on a cookie sheet, made little foil 'balls' to raise the boards up off the sheet for even heating and placed the 2 in the preheated 385 degree oven for 9 minutes. I don't know why, but I placed another piece of foil, like a cover over the 2 boards, (not touching the boards) but I didn't want the heat going directly on them, just evenly around them. The idea that the solder would melt and 'reconnect', repairing any potentially bad solder joints seemed to just make sense, and what do you know, IT WORKED! I plugged it back in and it went to the setup menu, then to the phone setup menu, and bam, paired up immediately! She's still hanging there but I talked on it for about 2 hours, 1 hour on my way to work and other hour on the way home. This MIGHT actually explain why some people had good results replacing the cap and some didn't. The cap may not have not necessarily been the cause, it may have been the cap's solder joint or a faulty solder joint of another component.
I really hope some of you have some luck baking your bluetooth! Make some brownies while you're at it! I will try to keep checking in to answer any questions and see if anyone else has any luck with this.
Here is how I came to my wacky conclusion: After reading and reading, dang near everyones hfl at one point or another stopped working, wheather it be altogether dead, on, but not responding, or, like mine, on, responding, but not pairing. This was my 3rd go at it, and I'm stubborn, so I really wanted to figure out if there was ANY way to fix it instead of paying for a new one when CLEARLY Acura should be footing the bill for this obvious design flaw of this SAFETY feature. I took the hf assy out of the bezel, let it hang down and gently pushed, pulled, held, bent, twisted, turned, & tilted it, all the while trying to pair my droid 4 (and my gf's BB). My steering wheel controls would sometimes stop responding altogether during this process. I connected and disconected the green connector, pulled apart the 2 circuit boards (numerous times), which sometimes got me back the steering wheel control buttons, but NEVER successfully paired either phone. THEN, I discovered that when I put pressure on the capacitor on the larger circuit board, (this is the 'infamous' cap that many have replaced) the hfl 'woke up' and made this wierd scratchy noise. (still didn't work, but it reacted when I held slight pressure on it sideways) I thought I had it there, but still couldn't get it to work. Then I moved one spot over to the coil? power supply? next to it. Again, when I held slight pressure on it, the hfl reacted, still not working, but really got me thinking about another post that I read about on here about solder joints. I thought to myself, "self, this could definitely be the problem!" So, I remembered reading (to many posts on this thread, I can't find it again now!) that some folks had luck repairing all types of electronics by baking (or heating with a heat gun) the circuit board(s). This seemed to make sense in this case, as you would not be able to see a tiny, hairline, intermittant bad solder joint on these boards, and when I held pressure on certain components, I had varying results. So, I figured what the heck do I have to lose, it doesn't work now. I like the oven idea much better than the heat gun because the oven would provide even heating as opposed to the directional heating of the gun. I put aluminum foil on a cookie sheet, made little foil 'balls' to raise the boards up off the sheet for even heating and placed the 2 in the preheated 385 degree oven for 9 minutes. I don't know why, but I placed another piece of foil, like a cover over the 2 boards, (not touching the boards) but I didn't want the heat going directly on them, just evenly around them. The idea that the solder would melt and 'reconnect', repairing any potentially bad solder joints seemed to just make sense, and what do you know, IT WORKED! I plugged it back in and it went to the setup menu, then to the phone setup menu, and bam, paired up immediately! She's still hanging there but I talked on it for about 2 hours, 1 hour on my way to work and other hour on the way home. This MIGHT actually explain why some people had good results replacing the cap and some didn't. The cap may not have not necessarily been the cause, it may have been the cap's solder joint or a faulty solder joint of another component.
I really hope some of you have some luck baking your bluetooth! Make some brownies while you're at it! I will try to keep checking in to answer any questions and see if anyone else has any luck with this.
On a side note, I left it in the oven as you said, but kept it there for 7 minutes or less. The first time I left it in for 9 and it kinda burnt the plastic connector.
#514
Baked Bluetooth
I'm glad it worked out for you too. I wonder why it didn't work the first time. I should point out that you should place the boards in the oven with the majority of the components on the top, and support the components that are facing the bottom with the foil balls or cubes (as some of them turned out to be). Also note that I made a foil 'cover' that I placed over the boards, but not touching the boards. I didn't even remove the stickers from the board and not only did they not burn, but they didn't even get discolored. Maybe the ovens vary in temperature too...? I really think that the problem with the majority of these HFLs are these solder connections.
If anyone has purchased the new part and wants to donate the old one for troubleshooting purposes, let me know as I will be happy to bake that bad boy, test it, and post the results. I think that I can R&R the HFL in under a minute now.
By the way, I put my HFL back in it's home yesterday in the roof and thankfully it's still working. I paired another phone to it yesterday as well; so now a Droid 4 and an iPhone 5 are paired up and I'm being heard clearly according to all.
I just hope it lasts!
And again, Acura, if you're listening, do the right thing & fix or replace these for free as it is obviously a design flaw.
If anyone has purchased the new part and wants to donate the old one for troubleshooting purposes, let me know as I will be happy to bake that bad boy, test it, and post the results. I think that I can R&R the HFL in under a minute now.
By the way, I put my HFL back in it's home yesterday in the roof and thankfully it's still working. I paired another phone to it yesterday as well; so now a Droid 4 and an iPhone 5 are paired up and I'm being heard clearly according to all.
I just hope it lasts!
And again, Acura, if you're listening, do the right thing & fix or replace these for free as it is obviously a design flaw.
#515
I'm glad it worked out for you too. I wonder why it didn't work the first time. I should point out that you should place the boards in the oven with the majority of the components on the top, and support the components that are facing the bottom with the foil balls or cubes (as some of them turned out to be). Also note that I made a foil 'cover' that I placed over the boards, but not touching the boards. I didn't even remove the stickers from the board and not only did they not burn, but they didn't even get discolored. Maybe the ovens vary in temperature too...? I really think that the problem with the majority of these HFLs are these solder connections.
If anyone has purchased the new part and wants to donate the old one for troubleshooting purposes, let me know as I will be happy to bake that bad boy, test it, and post the results. I think that I can R&R the HFL in under a minute now.
By the way, I put my HFL back in it's home yesterday in the roof and thankfully it's still working. I paired another phone to it yesterday as well; so now a Droid 4 and an iPhone 5 are paired up and I'm being heard clearly according to all.
I just hope it lasts!
And again, Acura, if you're listening, do the right thing & fix or replace these for free as it is obviously a design flaw.
If anyone has purchased the new part and wants to donate the old one for troubleshooting purposes, let me know as I will be happy to bake that bad boy, test it, and post the results. I think that I can R&R the HFL in under a minute now.
By the way, I put my HFL back in it's home yesterday in the roof and thankfully it's still working. I paired another phone to it yesterday as well; so now a Droid 4 and an iPhone 5 are paired up and I'm being heard clearly according to all.
I just hope it lasts!
And again, Acura, if you're listening, do the right thing & fix or replace these for free as it is obviously a design flaw.
I just test drove the car for several hours, and the bluetooth stayed connected all that time. It paired quickly with the phone also as soon as I got into the car. Note that I also have a belkin bluetooth dongle for my aux, and it didn't seem to interfere as far as connectivity is concerned.
#516
Yes, of course I will update the 'fix'.
What temp did you bake your modules and for how long?
I don't remember where I wound up reading about the temp & time. I just kept clicking and reading, and clicking on another link and reading & that led to another post, & so on... I would think that even the way you place the boards on the cookie sheet and where you place the foil 'balls' would make a big difference, as if you were to put the boards in the oven upside down without the foil balls underneath certain components to support them, you could have components dropping right out of the board, or creating an intermittant connection instead of fixing one... again, idk anything about this, I'm just looking at it from a common sense point of view...
What temp did you bake your modules and for how long?
I don't remember where I wound up reading about the temp & time. I just kept clicking and reading, and clicking on another link and reading & that led to another post, & so on... I would think that even the way you place the boards on the cookie sheet and where you place the foil 'balls' would make a big difference, as if you were to put the boards in the oven upside down without the foil balls underneath certain components to support them, you could have components dropping right out of the board, or creating an intermittant connection instead of fixing one... again, idk anything about this, I'm just looking at it from a common sense point of view...
#517
Hey guys,
I was the one that originally posted the oven instructions and I am glad it has worked ok for you guys. Unfortunately for me it only lasted for a couple of days. I am going to "bake" the module again but I would like to know what is the success rate on this. Can you guys post how many days has it been working for you since baking?
Thanks.
I was the one that originally posted the oven instructions and I am glad it has worked ok for you guys. Unfortunately for me it only lasted for a couple of days. I am going to "bake" the module again but I would like to know what is the success rate on this. Can you guys post how many days has it been working for you since baking?
Thanks.
#518
Hey guys,
I was the one that originally posted the oven instructions and I am glad it has worked ok for you guys. Unfortunately for me it only lasted for a couple of days. I am going to "bake" the module again but I would like to know what is the success rate on this. Can you guys post how many days has it been working for you since baking?
Thanks.
I was the one that originally posted the oven instructions and I am glad it has worked ok for you guys. Unfortunately for me it only lasted for a couple of days. I am going to "bake" the module again but I would like to know what is the success rate on this. Can you guys post how many days has it been working for you since baking?
Thanks.
I think the problem is that, the hfl is only covered by the black plastic cap and the whole assembly is exposed to heat from the roof. So they do shrink and expand constantly, thus causing the connections to separate. It hasn't been really hot here in the NW (~rarely to the 70 ish), but if I leave my car out in the sun, and remove the HFL, it is the only thing that heats up the most. Electrical tape would help in keeping them from separating.
#519
Bluetooth Bake Update
Well, I'm happy to report (fingers crossed, knocking on wood) that my bluetooth is still working! I had to get a new cell and paired that one up on the 1st try, just like the my old phone (droid 4) and my gf's blackberry. The only wierd problem we have is that her bb doesn't work in the car when receiving incoming calls only. I tried deleting and re-pairing, but same problem. Wierd... Mine works great on both incoming and outgoing calls. Everyone is reporting clear conversations. We haven't had REALLY hot weather yet, so I hope the fix holds up through the summer months. I'm convinced this whole thread, all these intermittant problems are caused by the solder joints on those boards, worsened by the high heat of the mounting location, but, again, just mho...
#520