Better set of components?
#41
Three Wheelin'
FWIW, I have the 4.80. Its fine, but I wish I had bought the 4.150 just for the headroom and the speakers I have are less power hungry than the rk6. I mean It'll probably be fine, but you're talking 20-30 bucks now or $200 later. Just a little hindsight for yah.
#42
Coolest A-zine Member
iTrader: (1)
a 4-channel amp that CAN NOT run active just has x-overs that go to 1,000hz or somewhere near that. (ie. not high enough to cross tweeters on 2 channels).
You can run active with the Q4.80 and I HIGHLY! suggest it as you'll want to tone down the tweeters
LOC.... You're just hurting yourself here. I'd pick up an AC Matrix for $80 or so and be done with it. You can run it off pre-amp signals and have something there for a sub or whatever when you're ready.
#43
Three Wheelin'
If you look at the crossover's on the amp it has the ability to go from (20hz-45,000hz) on Channels 1/2. This would be the 2 channels for your tweeter. Channels 3/4 can be crossed anywhere from (15hz-1,000hz), which is too low for tweeters, but just fine for your mids.
a 4-channel amp that CAN NOT run active just has x-overs that go to 1,000hz or somewhere near that. (ie. not high enough to cross tweeters on 2 channels).
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a 4-channel amp that CAN NOT run active just has x-overs that go to 1,000hz or somewhere near that. (ie. not high enough to cross tweeters on 2 channels).
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#45
Three Wheelin'
#47
Three Wheelin'
We were talking about active crossover setups. You said only the Q can do it.
An active cross over is going to use a processor to cross the signal before the amp. Say I want to active cross over my front comps. I get a processor and a 4 channel amp (R mid, R tweet, L mid, L Tweet) I take two channels (l/r) full range into the processor. It'll output 4 channels for me. That might be 0-3000hz on the mids and 3000-22000hz on the tweets. So the signal going into the amp isn't a full range signal. However since we don't need to further cross over the signal in the amp, we can just set it to all pass. You're still only getting 0-3000khz on the mids since its not suming the signal or anything.
Hence pretty much any amp can be used for active cross overs. The cross over network on the amp should not be used with an active crossover. I don't really cover the sub here, but its the same deal.
When I get the 3sixty.2 in my system I should be able to use it to go active on my mids, buy another amp and use that for my sub. The 3sixty.2 should be running all the crossovers at that point and my amps would all be set to all pass.
#48
Coolest A-zine Member
iTrader: (1)
Right. But this guy doesn't have a processor. So if he ran the signal through a RF-BLD or AC Matrix then the signal will need to be crossed at the Amp. Hence why he'd need an amp that can go active. If you're using a processor, you're fine. But not all amps can go active. If you have a processor..yes. Geeky you'll be fine with whatever amp, just look at the type of power you're wanting.
#49
Three Wheelin'
Right. But this guy doesn't have a processor. So if he ran the signal through a RF-BLD or AC Matrix then the signal will need to be crossed at the Amp. Hence why he'd need an amp that can go active. If you're using a processor, you're fine. But not all amps can go active. If you have a processor..yes. Geeky you'll be fine with whatever amp, just look at the type of power you're wanting.
#50
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Active to me means that you have the ability to control the gains, crossover points, slopes, etc. on each individual driver. You can do this with just the amp if it has a bandpass filter. The Q has a bandpass filter and you could use these drivers without the crossover and without a processor - not sure how good it would be, but it probably would be OK considering the stock crossover is not all that great.
#52
Acura TL 04, G37s 19"
iTrader: (1)
I know someone that has some RK6's for sale for cheaper than your budget
Things you NEED to do:
1. Deaden (& seal if you have the $) doors
2. Buy amp that can accept balanced inputs OR buy RF-BLD or Audiocontrol units
Component Sets: Already covered a good range above..
Amps: Check your local craigslist for good buys. If you're not sure, post what location is closest to you on Craigslist and we can help
$400 for amp speakers isn't too bad. Are you installing this? You also need to look at speaker depth and size. Some speakers will fit right in when you use a 1/2" or 3/4" MDF ring..some will not! (..RK6)
Things you NEED to do:
1. Deaden (& seal if you have the $) doors
2. Buy amp that can accept balanced inputs OR buy RF-BLD or Audiocontrol units
Component Sets: Already covered a good range above..
Amps: Check your local craigslist for good buys. If you're not sure, post what location is closest to you on Craigslist and we can help
$400 for amp speakers isn't too bad. Are you installing this? You also need to look at speaker depth and size. Some speakers will fit right in when you use a 1/2" or 3/4" MDF ring..some will not! (..RK6)
#53
Three Wheelin'
Cut off the moisture barrier. Apply deadener to the door skin that you can reach. Get a perforated metal screen and cover the large holes. Use self tapping sheet metal screws or some people silicon the screens in. Cover the screens and interior door skin with deadener. Don't forget to deaden the door card.
#54
Coolest A-zine Member
iTrader: (1)
Cut off the moisture barrier. Apply deadener to the door skin that you can reach. Get a perforated metal screen and cover the large holes. Use self tapping sheet metal screws or some people silicon the screens in. Cover the screens and interior door skin with deadener. Don't forget to deaden the door card.
#55
Team Owner
I would love it if I could find an amp that just amplifies the signal with no crossovers or any other features. Just a gain control and I would be happy. That's all that's needed when going active with a processor. I feel like I'm paying for features that I'll never use. Unfortunately, after getting used to an actual sound stage I'll never be able to go without a processor. I did want to speak up, a processor is worth the money for an SQ system. It's a night and day difference. If you planned on one from the beginning, you would have more amp choices.
One thing I'm quickly learning, go with as much power as you can afford even if you don't like it super loud. Each time I've stepped up the power I've been rewarded with better dynamics and overall better SQ even at the same listening levels. After trying out 300w to each mid bass I've made up my mind to order another Zed amp so I can run 300w to both the mid bass and mids and I think 150w should be enough for the tweeters lol. At one point I was going to downgrade the sub amp from 1,000w to about 600w since I have no need for anything above 300w each but I think I'm going to keep the 1,000w amp after seeing how much better the higher power sounds on the front stage.
One thing I'm quickly learning, go with as much power as you can afford even if you don't like it super loud. Each time I've stepped up the power I've been rewarded with better dynamics and overall better SQ even at the same listening levels. After trying out 300w to each mid bass I've made up my mind to order another Zed amp so I can run 300w to both the mid bass and mids and I think 150w should be enough for the tweeters lol. At one point I was going to downgrade the sub amp from 1,000w to about 600w since I have no need for anything above 300w each but I think I'm going to keep the 1,000w amp after seeing how much better the higher power sounds on the front stage.
#56
Drifting
One thing I'm quickly learning, go with as much power as you can afford even if you don't like it super loud. Each time I've stepped up the power I've been rewarded with better dynamics and overall better SQ even at the same listening levels. After trying out 300w to each mid bass I've made up my mind to order another Zed amp so I can run 300w to both the mid bass and mids and I think 150w should be enough for the tweeters lol.
#57
Team Owner
#60
Acura TL 04, G37s 19"
iTrader: (1)
Look for my build thread. Has a few pics and good info
You can do it this way Eduardmc or clear/clean the door, apply deadener to flat panels and then use SDS (sound deadener showdown) Mass Loaded Vinyl to cover the holes and seal the door. I went with SDS CLD Tiles for deadener. I used 4ish per door and it was more than enough. I put 2 on the outer door panel (the one next to the exterior..behind speaker, window track, etc) and 2-3 on the inner door. I spent $150 I think for the deadener, MLV, and CCF (stuff to put on MLV that stops rattles, etc). One piece of advice, do not cheap out of deadener and get asphalt based stuff or whatever. SDS, Second Skin and a few others are the only one's I'd touch. They won't run over time and actually do their job. It can be time consuming but it pays off in the end.
You can do it this way Eduardmc or clear/clean the door, apply deadener to flat panels and then use SDS (sound deadener showdown) Mass Loaded Vinyl to cover the holes and seal the door. I went with SDS CLD Tiles for deadener. I used 4ish per door and it was more than enough. I put 2 on the outer door panel (the one next to the exterior..behind speaker, window track, etc) and 2-3 on the inner door. I spent $150 I think for the deadener, MLV, and CCF (stuff to put on MLV that stops rattles, etc). One piece of advice, do not cheap out of deadener and get asphalt based stuff or whatever. SDS, Second Skin and a few others are the only one's I'd touch. They won't run over time and actually do their job. It can be time consuming but it pays off in the end.
#61
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I just got the Massives. They live up to the name so far lol.
I picked up the box and I was surprised at how heavy it was. It felt like a good 20 lbs or more.
I picked up the box and I was surprised at how heavy it was. It felt like a good 20 lbs or more.
#63
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hey, you don't happen to have any issues with Speaker to Door Panel clearance do you?
I installed the passenger side speaker with the flush mount spacer from eBay and it feels ok so far but I hope it doesn't hit when it plays.
I haven't done the driver's side yet.
I installed the passenger side speaker with the flush mount spacer from eBay and it feels ok so far but I hope it doesn't hit when it plays.
I haven't done the driver's side yet.
#65
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
#66
Team Owner
I had to do some serious trimming of my door panel or the mid would hit when it was playing. The panel would hit right into the surround which is bad. I removed the grill portion and installed the panel just to double check. If yours are flush mounted you probably have nothing to worry about. Mine are mounted with 3/4 spacers.
#67
Three Wheelin'
#68
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
#69
Team Owner
Ahh, I saw he mentioned flush mount adapters. I thought that meant basically mounting the speaker to the door but I'm assuming it means the speaker is recessed into the baffle a little. I would definitely take a razor knife and trim the back of the door panel. I took mine down flush. It's not worth hurting the mid and causing bad SQ. Now that I think about it, I nearly damaged my Infinities that were in there before because of this. The cone became permanently offset inward. I had to lay it cone down and stick little weights to the back side and leave it like that for a month. It only takes about 15 minutes per door panel.
#70
Coolest A-zine Member
iTrader: (1)
Ahh, I saw he mentioned flush mount adapters. I thought that meant basically mounting the speaker to the door but I'm assuming it means the speaker is recessed into the baffle a little. I would definitely take a razor knife and trim the back of the door panel. I took mine down flush. It's not worth hurting the mid and causing bad SQ. Now that I think about it, I nearly damaged my Infinities that were in there before because of this. The cone became permanently offset inward. I had to lay it cone down and stick little weights to the back side and leave it like that for a month. It only takes about 15 minutes per door panel.
#71
Team Owner
I put some left over second skin vibration mat between the door and baffle and baffle and mid to isolate the speaker from the door. I had serious vibration issues after installing the dyns that this mostly cured.
#72
Coolest A-zine Member
iTrader: (1)
Yeah I still have left over CCF and MLV that I'll put in the trunk. I need to put some CCF in some places in the center unit near shifter, etc. I've been getting rattles lately and I HAAATE rattles. My g/f always laughs at me because she can't hear these rattles but I'm constantly putting my ear near it and trying to fix them.
#73
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
This is what I get for blind buying speakers and not listening to people.
The tweeters are very harsh. Deafening actually. Do they mellow out after breakin?
I've been thinking about going active with an Audison Bit Ten but I don't know what do I need to go active.
The tweeters are very harsh. Deafening actually. Do they mellow out after breakin?
I've been thinking about going active with an Audison Bit Ten but I don't know what do I need to go active.
Last edited by SpiderX1016; 08-23-2011 at 05:20 PM.
#75
Coolest A-zine Member
iTrader: (1)
I don't find them harsh at all. I find them LOUD. Definitely a difference there. You can't really tune down harshness as that's just the nature of tweeter. I'm hoping I can tune down the loudness by going active and turning gains down on the tweeter, playing with the slopes, etc. If not, I'll be going with a different set.
But yeah, the tweeters will mellow very slightly over time so give it a week or two.
But yeah, the tweeters will mellow very slightly over time so give it a week or two.
#77
Team Owner
I wouldn't count on the tweeters noticeably changing.
Active would be a solution. The minimum required would be enough amp channels for each speaker individually and preferably a processor. The processor would simplify everything a lot. Everyone seems to think it's the crossovers. I just read in your thread on DIYMA that this set is made to be run in the kicks way off axis. Who knows if that's the truth or if they're trying to cover their asses. Either way, active is great once you get the hang of it. At first it's overwhelming. You want all this adjustability and once you get it, you don't know what to do with it. After a while it gets fun and you can make it sound quite a bit better than the passives especially at high volumes.
Active would be a solution. The minimum required would be enough amp channels for each speaker individually and preferably a processor. The processor would simplify everything a lot. Everyone seems to think it's the crossovers. I just read in your thread on DIYMA that this set is made to be run in the kicks way off axis. Who knows if that's the truth or if they're trying to cover their asses. Either way, active is great once you get the hang of it. At first it's overwhelming. You want all this adjustability and once you get it, you don't know what to do with it. After a while it gets fun and you can make it sound quite a bit better than the passives especially at high volumes.
#78
Team Owner
I don't find them harsh at all. I find them LOUD. Definitely a difference there. You can't really tune down harshness as that's just the nature of tweeter. I'm hoping I can tune down the loudness by going active and turning gains down on the tweeter, playing with the slopes, etc. If not, I'll be going with a different set.
But yeah, the tweeters will mellow very slightly over time so give it a week or two.
But yeah, the tweeters will mellow very slightly over time so give it a week or two.
#79
Coolest A-zine Member
iTrader: (1)
You really found this mid to be that good?? I know a few people love the CK6 mid over at DIYMA but I haven't found anyone that wants and looks for SQ that has really liked this mid.
What other mids have you heard and what do you like about this mid that stands out?? I find mine to sound a little hollow in the upper bass (100-150hz-ish) range
IHC- Yeah, just too loud. The tweeter can be a tad harsh at higher volumes but I think just the shear loudness of it makes it come off as harsh. I think they can sound decent and have a slight top end sparkle when you're listening at medium volumes. We'll see what happens when they're active and with different slopes and x-over points. I'm sure i'll still install the ID CXS's as they'll likely be much more musical and have a snappier, punchier midbass
What other mids have you heard and what do you like about this mid that stands out?? I find mine to sound a little hollow in the upper bass (100-150hz-ish) range
IHC- Yeah, just too loud. The tweeter can be a tad harsh at higher volumes but I think just the shear loudness of it makes it come off as harsh. I think they can sound decent and have a slight top end sparkle when you're listening at medium volumes. We'll see what happens when they're active and with different slopes and x-over points. I'm sure i'll still install the ID CXS's as they'll likely be much more musical and have a snappier, punchier midbass
Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 08-23-2011 at 07:28 PM.
#80
Team Owner
Here you go, 2ohm resister wired in parallel...
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...-review-2.html
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...-review-2.html