FWIW, I have the 4.80. Its fine, but I wish I had bought the 4.150 just for the headroom and the speakers I have are less power hungry than the rk6. I mean It'll probably be fine, but you're talking 20-30 bucks now or $200 later. Just a little hindsight for yah.

 

If you look at the crossover's on the amp it has the ability to go from (20hz-45,000hz) on Channels 1/2. This would be the 2 channels for your tweeter. Channels 3/4 can be crossed anywhere from (15hz-1,000hz), which is too low for tweeters, but just fine for your mids.

a 4-channel amp that CAN NOT run active just has x-overs that go to 1,000hz or somewhere near that. (ie. not high enough to cross tweeters on 2 channels).


roughly 200 per side...which is exactly what I was giving them. Deadener won't fix that tweeter though...

You can run active with the Q4.80 and I HIGHLY! suggest it as you'll want to tone down the tweeters

People have given them all kinds of power. It takes a lot to get that mid moving but when it does it packs a lot but it's more of an SPL type mid from what others say that have heard multiple setups.

LOC.... You're just hurting yourself here. I'd pick up an AC Matrix for $80 or so and be done with it. You can run it off pre-amp signals and have something there for a sub or whatever when you're ready.

 

Except that almost every amp I've ever seen has a full pass option that can defeat the crossovers on the amp.

 

Full pass = Full Range signal

...aka...not good

 

It is if you're using an active crossover. The signal into the amp won't be full range.

 

Wait what?? A full range signal into the amp can be HP/LP wherever possible on your amp. Not sure what your meaning but amps can pass the full signal without being crossed but why would you want to do that...

 

We were talking about active crossover setups. You said only the Q can do it.

An active cross over is going to use a processor to cross the signal before the amp. Say I want to active cross over my front comps. I get a processor and a 4 channel amp (R mid, R tweet, L mid, L Tweet) I take two channels (l/r) full range into the processor. It'll output 4 channels for me. That might be 0-3000hz on the mids and 3000-22000hz on the tweets. So the signal going into the amp isn't a full range signal. However since we don't need to further cross over the signal in the amp, we can just set it to all pass. You're still only getting 0-3000khz on the mids since its not suming the signal or anything.

Hence pretty much any amp can be used for active cross overs. The cross over network on the amp should not be used with an active crossover. I don't really cover the sub here, but its the same deal.

When I get the 3sixty.2 in my system I should be able to use it to go active on my mids, buy another amp and use that for my sub. The 3sixty.2 should be running all the crossovers at that point and my amps would all be set to all pass.

 

Right. But this guy doesn't have a processor. So if he ran the signal through a RF-BLD or AC Matrix then the signal will need to be crossed at the Amp. Hence why he'd need an amp that can go active. If you're using a processor, you're fine. But not all amps can go active. If you have a processor..yes. Geeky you'll be fine with whatever amp, just look at the type of power you're wanting.

 

Mmmm. I'm not sure I'm sure I'd consider the crossovers on the amp "active" in the sense we normally talk about it. Anyhow, most amps offer some sort cross over settings. Perhaps I'm just missing what you're talking about.

 

Active to me means that you have the ability to control the gains, crossover points, slopes, etc. on each individual driver. You can do this with just the amp if it has a bandpass filter. The Q has a bandpass filter and you could use these drivers without the crossover and without a processor - not sure how good it would be, but it probably would be OK considering the stock crossover is not all that great.

 

I suppose you're right. You could setup the Q without a processor to do all the cross over work.

 

i need to sealed my doors for my boston pro 60 components. any guide i should follow and what should i buy? Is there's any guide in here Sealing a TL door. i try the search but no luck

 

Cut off the moisture barrier. Apply deadener to the door skin that you can reach. Get a perforated metal screen and cover the large holes. Use self tapping sheet metal screws or some people silicon the screens in. Cover the screens and interior door skin with deadener. Don't forget to deaden the door card.

 

Look for my build thread. Has a few pics and good info

You can do it this way Eduardmc or clear/clean the door, apply deadener to flat panels and then use SDS (sound deadener showdown) Mass Loaded Vinyl to cover the holes and seal the door. I went with SDS CLD Tiles for deadener. I used 4ish per door and it was more than enough. I put 2 on the outer door panel (the one next to the exterior..behind speaker, window track, etc) and 2-3 on the inner door. I spent $150 I think for the deadener, MLV, and CCF (stuff to put on MLV that stops rattles, etc). One piece of advice, do not cheap out of deadener and get asphalt based stuff or whatever. SDS, Second Skin and a few others are the only one's I'd touch. They won't run over time and actually do their job. It can be time consuming but it pays off in the end.

 

I would love it if I could find an amp that just amplifies the signal with no crossovers or any other features. Just a gain control and I would be happy. That's all that's needed when going active with a processor. I feel like I'm paying for features that I'll never use. Unfortunately, after getting used to an actual sound stage I'll never be able to go without a processor. I did want to speak up, a processor is worth the money for an SQ system. It's a night and day difference. If you planned on one from the beginning, you would have more amp choices.

One thing I'm quickly learning, go with as much power as you can afford even if you don't like it super loud. Each time I've stepped up the power I've been rewarded with better dynamics and overall better SQ even at the same listening levels. After trying out 300w to each mid bass I've made up my mind to order another Zed amp so I can run 300w to both the mid bass and mids and I think 150w should be enough for the tweeters lol. At one point I was going to downgrade the sub amp from 1,000w to about 600w since I have no need for anything above 300w each but I think I'm going to keep the 1,000w amp after seeing how much better the higher power sounds on the front stage.

 

Told ya!

 

I know, I should have listened. I thought you were crazy lol.

 

LOL

everyone does.

 

You never really can have too much headroom.

 

Thanx everyone but im sorry to say that i did cheap out on dreaden buying the old good peel and sealed. I know it was a honest mistake but this time i will just dreaden what i haven and sealed all the holes.

 

I just got the Massives. They live up to the name so far lol.
I picked up the box and I was surprised at how heavy it was. It felt like a good 20 lbs or more.

 

Yes. The mids are HUGE.

 

Hey, you don't happen to have any issues with Speaker to Door Panel clearance do you?

I installed the passenger side speaker with the flush mount spacer from eBay and it feels ok so far but I hope it doesn't hit when it plays.

I haven't done the driver's side yet.

 

What do you mean?? Take pics

 

Like will the speaker hit the door panel when it plays? I don't think it will but I was just wondering.

 

I had to do some serious trimming of my door panel or the mid would hit when it was playing. The panel would hit right into the surround which is bad. I removed the grill portion and installed the panel just to double check. If yours are flush mounted you probably have nothing to worry about. Mine are mounted with 3/4 spacers.

 

Other than not being able to roll your windows down all the way anymore?

 

I was worried about that but I have a quarter of an inch between the magnet and window.

 

Ahh, I saw he mentioned flush mount adapters. I thought that meant basically mounting the speaker to the door but I'm assuming it means the speaker is recessed into the baffle a little. I would definitely take a razor knife and trim the back of the door panel. I took mine down flush. It's not worth hurting the mid and causing bad SQ. Now that I think about it, I nearly damaged my Infinities that were in there before because of this. The cone became permanently offset inward. I had to lay it cone down and stick little weights to the back side and leave it like that for a month. It only takes about 15 minutes per door panel.

 

Yeah OP, this is what I did also. Grinded down the panel on the inside b/c it would hit speaker surround when you put the panel on. Besides that, I would use weatherstripping or some non-hardening modeling clay to seal the 3/4" MDF baffle to the door/sheet metal.

 

I put some left over second skin vibration mat between the door and baffle and baffle and mid to isolate the speaker from the door. I had serious vibration issues after installing the dyns that this mostly cured.

 

Yeah I still have left over CCF and MLV that I'll put in the trunk. I need to put some CCF in some places in the center unit near shifter, etc. I've been getting rattles lately and I HAAATE rattles. My g/f always laughs at me because she can't hear these rattles but I'm constantly putting my ear near it and trying to fix them.

 

This is what I get for blind buying speakers and not listening to people.

The tweeters are very harsh. Deafening actually. Do they mellow out after breakin?

I've been thinking about going active with an Audison Bit Ten but I don't know what do I need to go active.

 

I think im the only one that does not find them harsh.

...then again i ran horns..

 

I don't find them harsh at all. I find them LOUD. Definitely a difference there. You can't really tune down harshness as that's just the nature of tweeter. I'm hoping I can tune down the loudness by going active and turning gains down on the tweeter, playing with the slopes, etc. If not, I'll be going with a different set.

But yeah, the tweeters will mellow very slightly over time so give it a week or two.

 

If u cant tune it down, go with a different tweet. That mid is too awesome to give up.

 

I wouldn't count on the tweeters noticeably changing.

Active would be a solution. The minimum required would be enough amp channels for each speaker individually and preferably a processor. The processor would simplify everything a lot. Everyone seems to think it's the crossovers. I just read in your thread on DIYMA that this set is made to be run in the kicks way off axis. Who knows if that's the truth or if they're trying to cover their asses. Either way, active is great once you get the hang of it. At first it's overwhelming. You want all this adjustability and once you get it, you don't know what to do with it. After a while it gets fun and you can make it sound quite a bit better than the passives especially at high volumes.

 

That's kind of what I was wondering, if it was a harsh tweeter or just too loud. At least it can be fixed if it's just too loud.

 

You really found this mid to be that good?? I know a few people love the CK6 mid over at DIYMA but I haven't found anyone that wants and looks for SQ that has really liked this mid.

What other mids have you heard and what do you like about this mid that stands out?? I find mine to sound a little hollow in the upper bass (100-150hz-ish) range


IHC- Yeah, just too loud. The tweeter can be a tad harsh at higher volumes but I think just the shear loudness of it makes it come off as harsh. I think they can sound decent and have a slight top end sparkle when you're listening at medium volumes. We'll see what happens when they're active and with different slopes and x-over points. I'm sure i'll still install the ID CXS's as they'll likely be much more musical and have a snappier, punchier midbass

 

Here you go, 2ohm resister wired in parallel...

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...-review-2.html