Man I love Audio and Know how to Run Power Lines, Ground, Fuses, Etc. Ive done My own shitty audio setups for years and have been happy with them. Now I want to do something more professional and nice in my TL-S. I was wanting a JL W7 10 Inch (Maybe 12). What would be a great box to put in the trunk and amp to run? All this technical stuff you guys are talk about goes in one ear and out the other. Maybe someone can Break down what I need and what would be better 10in or 12in. I don't want something crazy I just want some Crisp Bass that doesn't Pound my heart beat to a stop. Also I'm looking for a Ported box. So Any Ideas would be great. I was going to post this on a fellow Threat about JL W6 either being in a ported or sealed box, but I didn't want to Hi Jack his Thread. I'm Pretty Handy so If anyone has ideas on boxes I can make or drawings on some boxes I could make even better. I've never made one before but like I said I'm handy with Wood so it should be a problem. Also if its to hard I have a Guy in my Phone book who has made me Custom boxes as well for a 12" Solo-baric I have.

Thanks

 

Why jl?

 

^why not?

 

Similar/better performance out there for less.

IMO.

 

I also agree with eggy, from actual experience.

If you want JL, then go and get it, but if you just want a bad-ass sub for a ported box, then there are literally a dozen better choices for both SQ and SPL.

If you don't care how loud it gets, then get a W6 if you want to stay with JL Audio. I think that the W6 is a better SQL driver than the W7.

 

If i had to stay wit jl, i would probably get 3 8 w7's.

 

I mean I have a Solo-Baric L7 12" That I don't want to use. I want something new and I don't want to go backwards. Also I hate Bandpass Boxes, I want a nice Ported Box (or Maybe Sealed Depends which one sounds better). I've had Sealed and Bandpass Boxes before and Im not a big fan anymore. I've had one Ported Box with my L7 and I love it. What else You guys suggest besides JL? I want good Quality and top of the line. Im looking for one sub, since I think that would be enough for me especially if I get good quality shit... Budget would be 1G or less for the a Sub and an Amp.

 

How's your electrical?

 

Well there's No System in the car right now if that's what you mean. So There is no electrical done right now. I have the L7 from my previous vehicle and haven't wanted to put it in the TL-S. I had that in a Ek Hatchback and I was Happy with the Setup but then again its a hatch and TL isn't so That is the reason for my Thread also.

 

If i had 1000 for a single sub setup, i'd get a ssa xcon 12 and a sundown 1500d

 

I was Looking them up, Whats the Difference? More Bass for same Price of the W7s?

 

They get louder, sound smoother, get lower, handle much much more power, don't have a funky ohm load, and i believe they're cheaper. Both sound damn good, though

if space isn't a concern, opt for the 15
http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/s...00D-COMBO.html

 

I would do the 10w7 ported tuned low. I've heard two vehicles with this setup and they had very good sq and tons of output. I ran two 12W6s in sealed, ported, bandpass, and infinite baffle for 7 years. Many people don't like JL because it went mainstream and many people know the name. Some of the best sounding vehicles I've heard were using the W6 or W7 for sub bass. You will not be disappointed with a 10W7 ported. Search around for Klippel tests, it's doubtful you'll find a more linear sub. That's the thing I like so much is they're an sq sub but with great output and they're practically indestructible.

 

My solution for this would be FI BTL and Fosgate T1500.1bdcp, but there are literally 50 solutions that would be equally as good.

Sundown SA12 would be another good sub that I would consider with less wattage. SSA XCon would be another for more wattage. I heard a nice 1500W treo at a car show a while back, but have never owned one.

There are a whole plethora of amps that go over 1000W at 1 ohm, but they usually are in the 60% efficiency range, get hot and don't last. Some, are quality, however, and price is a good place to determine quality on these. Distortion goes up with lower ohm load too, usually. The Fosgate that I recommended does the same wattage at 4 ohms, stays cooler and is around 86-92% efficient and should have less distortion, but I have no way to measure it.

I use the T1500.1bdcp at 1300W on the stock electrical with only the big-3 done. It is fine except at the absolute high end of the power range and you cannot listen to that for too long anyway.

 

Does the W7 use a different motor for the 8, 10, 12 and 13 inch versions? They take different wattages. If so, then they are really 4 different subs. The 12w7 that I had was very nice, but not exceptional. I guess that the 8 or 10 could be totally different.

 

If we're changing things up, why not a pair of 15s infinite baffle? You'll get more output per watt especially down low and they are generally cheaper. A little 500watt amp could power a pair of 15s IB easily.

I'm currently feeding my subs the same power as the front stage and the subs still have the potential to over run the fronts. Efficiency is nice, why run 1,000w to a pair of 12s when 500w to a pair of efficient 15s IB will get the same output. Plus having 99% of your trunk available is nice.

My sub stage is amazing and I have a $100 used 1,200 watt 10yr old amp with $333 worth of subs and $30 worth of wood, screws, and sealing materials. Just the McIntosh amp for the fronts cost more than my whole sub setup. I might have $500 in the sub setup if you include the sound deadening.

 

Damn See Im In between Both now FML. I need Something small Like a 10 because Im tryna still have stunk space to use. Between the Two (JL W7-10 vs ssa xcon 12) What size box could I get away with? The Setup of the W7 with the JL 500/1 Amp is maybe 100 Cheaper than the SSA Xcon12 with the Sundown 1500 Combo. HUMMmMMm

 

The 12w7 and 10w7s I've heard definitely sounded different, all were ported but obviously vastly different vehicles. One of the 10W7s was in an F-150 and one of the 12W7s was in a Chrysler Hemi wagon (can't think of the name off hand but it was a 300 look alike).

It was a real eye opener hearing the 10W7 in the F-150. It sounded better and had more output than both of my 12W6s in a too small sealed box. The 10 just seemed to hit every not perfectly. The 12s were owned by a guy that only listed to rap and hip hop so I have to assume they were tuned accordlingly. The output was awesome and they sounded great on the really low stuff but none of his demo music included anything above 50hz or anything with actual transients so I can't really comment on anything but the low end. The other 12W7 I heard was great. It sounded like my W6s in the ported box but with more output and almost sounded cleaner at the higher SPL.

On the other hand, I have a co-worker that overpaid for a used 10W7 in a ported box and it sounds worse than just about any sub I've ever heard. Output is not there and it goes about as deep as the TL's stock sub and more sloppy than the stock sub.

 

Trunk space with two 15s...... It's not this sloppy anymore, this was during the install. I need to get new finished pictures...


Subs are hidden now but here they were when new and I had to keep an eye on excursion:

 

Requirements for the xcon

Sealed: .9 - 1.25 cu.ft.
Sealed: 1.35 - 1.5 cu.ft. optimal
Ported: 1.75 - 2.25 cu.ft. @ 26-33hz
Ported: 2.5 - 2.75 cu.ft. @ 26-33hz opt.

 

This is what i Don't Want... Did he have it in a TL?

 

Since IB is now in the equation, let's throw in the IA flatlyne
http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/s...ne-Series.html

 

I came very close to getting one of those. I chose the Tempest X due to the 27mm xmax, 37mm xmech, and the hype around the xbl2 technology but I hated the way it sounded. Next up was the Flatlyne but I got the shipping notice on the AEs before I had a chance to order.

I haven't heard anyone say a bad thing about their performance. I had to really search to find the TS parameters on the 15" but finally found them. The only thing I remember not liking was xmech was a little low from what I remember. A pair of their 15s would be nice.

Edit: Nevermind, I was wrong on the xmech, it's 26mm. I don't like the high mms even though it's not a big deal. I do like the lower vas which shouldn't raise the QTC too much if you install a pair of them in the trunk. Efficiency could be better but in IB it's going to require very little power anyway.

Fs: 25.9 Hz
Re: 3 Ohms series
Qms: 4.38
Qes: .60
Qts: .53
Mms: 269g
Cms: 0.14mm/N
Sd: 810cm^2
Vas: 104.9
Spl: 86.7dB 1W/1m
Bl: 14.6 N/A
Xmax: 18mm

 

Trucks and wagons don't really compare to our cars IMO. The acoustics are totally different. In those vehicles, the trunk does not act like another "box." I wonder what those setups would have sounded like in a trunk?

OP - the JL boxes are not great for listening. They might have higher output, but who cares if they sound bad... and they do. If you end up with JL then make (or have made) a good custom box.

IHC - I think that your 12w6s would have really opened up for you if you had your current signal going to them.

 

If you need trunk space, then sealed or IB is the way to go.

 

x2

Cabin gain helps A LOT in trucks, wagons, and hatch backs

 

I agree. I've only heard one 12W7 and 10W7 in a trunk, both were in a CL65 Mercedes which is very well insulated from the cabin. They sounded clean but the 50hz and above seemed to be cut off by the factory insulation.

My real point was that they go loud very cleanly. If the TL has issues due to the trunk, every sub will have issues in there. That's why eq is important. Personally I don't like firing the subs into a trunk which is why I ended up with a bandpass firing into the cabin and eventually the IB setup. This is the first setup I've owned that sounds good on any type of music at any level.

 

As does the trunk itself in a sedan or coupe.

 

Im not a Fan of the IB setups... I rather run Sealed box over IB if a ported box is out of the question

 

Go ported then.

Fire forward and completely seal off the trunk from the cabin.

 

Why?

 

I don't think that the 3G TL has trunk issues - it is not that well insulated. However, the sound is altered by the trunk and rear set... more so if you point the subs backwards and block the passage to the cabin with the box.

 

How do I find out more details on that setup? Looks pretty neat.

 

Ported is not out of the question. It is up to you.

If you go sealed, then I would mount it to the rear seat and fire it through the armrest. In my experiment with IB, I REALLY, REALLY like where the subs are located and I would try and incorporate this location into a sealed setup.

If you can find a box building wizard in your area, I would also inquire about mounting a ported box to fire through the armrest, but port it up through the stock sub hole. Gonna be harder than most, but could really save some space, sound good and eliminate most trunk rattles.

 

Sorry, but I can't help myself, I have to throw bandpass out there too.....

 

From what i read it's 2 sundown audio Z 12 v.2's, 26 hz tune, with about 4500w on tap.

I'll try to find a build log.

 

Forgot to ask

OP, what do you have planned for your front stage?

We can talk about subs all day, but they only play a couple octaves in the frequency range..

 

I don't have Anything Setup for Inside yet. I didn't want to mess with them yet until they start sounding like shit. I was just looking for some bass, The rest sound fine for now

 

Once you get a sub in, it's gonna sound like ass with the stockies

You're suppose to start from the front and move your way back.

 

I Like the Ideas to Port thru the OEM Sub Location, Or even Sealed to vent thru the arm rest