Okay so right now I'm running a JL 12"W7 off a JL HD750/1 and for the past week every couple of days the amp goes into protection mode and the led notification light flashes red and green.. Now i looked this up and the manual says that this is the alert that the battery power supply has dropped below 8.5 volts.

What can i do to fix this issue?
New battery?
Charge battery?
Capacitor?

Whats the most effective but cost effective resolution?

http://media.datatail.com/docs/manual/45611_en.pdf

page 15 section 4 is where it talks about the led alert

Thanks guys

 

First Verify all the Cells in your Battery are good, If you need to replace the battery and don't want to spend the money on an XS power, go with the Sears Platinum,

One good battery should hold upto 3000 watts power,

So look at the Charging System & Supply first

 

Thanks for the quick reply!...

How do i verify the battery cells?

What should i look for when looking at the charging system and supply? The connections to the battery or to the amp?

 

hey Tommy lmk if you actually get any help on any issue I was thinking of getting an extra battery for my jl 1000/1 with 13.5 w7in my 04 tl

 

Will do man! I'm gunna head to autozone and have them check my battery when I get out of class and see what's going on with it, hopefully it's just needing a new battery..


Jesus a 13.5x1000/1 that's gunna be insane!!!! I thought my sub was loud that's gunna be a glass breaker damnn!

 

No need for an additional battery for that amp

 

Okay so just went to Autozone and had my battery checked and the read came out that it is fully charged. sub and amp was working perfectly when i left then i went to a friends house, parked the car and came back out 5 minutes later to show him my sub and the amps led was back in alternating red/green mode again.


Any and all help is very appreciated... I'm praying that i don't have to have it sent back to jl again considering i just got it back from them a week ago for having something else fixed.

 

Check the voltage at the amp the next time it goes into protect.

 

Problem with that is i dont' have a voltage reader accessible to me at school and my amp is hidden behind a custom baffle in the trunk kinda hard to reach without either 1) taking out the whole box which would be a lot of work or 2)removing the sub from the box and getting to it that way... which i dont have the necessary tools to do

 

[QUOTE=tommyg55;14672521] dont even get a capacitor my installer adviced an extra battery for my sound equipement and yes Im running a jl 1000/1 with my 13.5 w7 but my lights dim with my 2 farad capacitor and it keeps going to protect mode too its not a jl issue trust me you just need more juice for the amp to keep the 1000 rms going
I'd suggest in your case upgrade the battery to one with like 1000 or so CCA you should be fine it worked for my exes set up when we went in. I also read on some reviews the power wire also matters check if yours is AWG, that helps with lower resistance.
as for im looking to save up some get an extra battery.

 

[QUOTE=Ptee;14673047]yeah i went to autozone today again and talked to a different guy and he recommended a bigger battery so i called my installer back home and he said that if it was him he would skip over the capacitor since the jl amps have voltage regulators and just get a bigger battery and he reccomended the duraGold battery they sell at auto zone, he said the ones with the yellow tops are crap. Does anyone have any experience with the duraGold battery?

 

I doubt the CCA rating matters with audio. A larger battery will last longer with the car off but shouldn't make a difference with it running. Many say the internal resistance is what matters for an audio system. The AGM batteries like the Die Hard Platinum are usually very good in this area.

There is no way that amp is too much for the stock charging system. I have two 600/4s and one 1200/1 and mine never go into protect. My only "upgrade" is the battery.

It might be time to check connections. If the voltage was actually dropping to 8v at the battery the car would have issues, the ECU will go nuts. If you can't check at the amp, at least check at the battery.

 

Your Acura dealer has a machine to test the battery,

You'll know if its you battery or alternator,

If you wish to waste money on senseless cool things,

I have 2 of these in my Car....
http://4xspower.com/
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/

 

So are you saying the battery connections may be loose?

When i went to autozone the guy quoted me $107 for the gold and I think $179 for the AMG type. So do you think think maybe spending the extra $70 might save me some future headaches?


at senseless cool things.

Theres actually an Acura dealer about 5 minutes away from my apartment so maybe I'll go there tomorrow when I get out of class and see if they can test the alternator for me. Would their battery test machine be the same as autozones or better?


Thanks guys again for all your help!

 

Only you can tell if your battery connections are loose. He means check all wiring connections. I dont think you need a battery at all. You need to do some troubleshooting. The Acura dealer will charge you a diagnostic fee that will be close to a new battery.

 

Alright i guess ill just have to wait till i get out of class to check out all the connections and I'll try to see if any friends have the necessary tools to take the baffle out to check the amp connections.

Here's another question/thought.... Originally the power wire had a 60W fuse in it and it was kinda old, so when my installer installed everything i noticed he replaced it with a 80W fuse. Could that possibly be the issue?

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/images/...s/thumbsup.gif


honestly when i checked the upgrades i could get i went with CCAs because the higher they were the more expensive the battery was
https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/2cents.gif so Im thinking it might be something upgrade your battery and check with the zine i think ill just have to with this advice myself

 

no actually the higher the fuse rating the better for you get a 100w fuse or something like that, correct me if Im wrong but a fuse safeguards your amp and ayou have to match the fuse to the current thats going to the amp. im using a 100amp fuse

 

The fuse safeguards the wire, not the equipment.

 

So would the 60w or 80w be better?

 

My bad so yeah it afegurads and controls the maximum amount of power that goes to the amp , the amp have their own fuse . Fuses are rated in amperes which is the amount of current . So depending on the amp the amount of amp 80 should be ok for yours .

 

It really depends on the size and type of wire you run. There are a couple calculators. The main fuse at the battery and the fuses at the distro blocks are there just in case the wire shorts to ground, to keep the car from burning to the ground. I've seen it happen. In fact, when I was a mechanic a million years ago I put a car on the lift and as soon as soon as the lift made contact with the frame it shorted and started a fire. After putting it out, I saw the owner had looped the wire in and out of holes in the frame, under some thin plastic and the lift shorted it to the frame. The wire was not visible from underneath. There was no fuse in that system. It burned a lot of crap on the car. Not the fire but the red hot wire run.