Titletown

Quick question for those that are using a 360.2. I wired my unit using the speaker wires after the factory amp going to the 360.2. So, the signal from the speaker wires serves to turn on my 360.2. Then, I used the jumper switch on the remote turn on for the 360.2 to use it as the remote turn on for my amps. I've noticed that under this configuration, my 360.2 and amps are always powered on when my car is running (i.e. even when the head unit is turned off). Has anyone else had this issue and if so, did you do anything to fix it?

I know that I could always run the main power wire, for the 360.2, up to a switch in the front and then back again and use it to turn the system on and off. But, I would rather not go through all of that hassle. I've also read where there is an OEM microphone that may need to be disconnected (But from my readings on this board, that only applies to the TL-S. I have a regular 2006 TL).

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Titletown

Sending this back to top to see if anyone can help. Thanks.

adsoldschool

I know your pain...the shop I had do my work has been trying to find a fix for this for months. They were even on the phone with the RF factory working to see about a fix, threw in the towel. I've tried it installed both with and without the factory amp, tried remote trigger units from PAC/Stinger to no avail. I have an appt at another shop tomorrow for a diagnosis. If I can get it figured out I'll be sure to post. The main issue is that the oem hu has such a low voltage out, it can't turn anything on.

hp1kw

Why (besides heat, etc) would you want to have everything shut off while driving? I doubt that much heat would be generated anyhow. Maybe the speaker level outs are always "hot" due to navi/bluetooth, thus always having the 360 sensing the signal? Perhaps you could inquire about that with your installer.

Titletown

I spoke with RF tech support. Not much help. I guess our system is constantly putting out a signal, whether the head unit is on or off (and, I don't have the Nav). It sounds like the 360 looks for a signal coming in on the left front input and uses that for turn on. I was thinking about maybe testing it out by disconnecting this from the 360 before turning the car on to see if the system powered up with out it. I guess my thought there is that I could potentially put a switch on that line (would actually be easier than the b+ and would prevent turn on clip that a switch there might produce).

As for why I don't want it on constantly, I do sometimes turn my radio off. Even when the radio is off, I get a constant white noise coming from my speakers, which drives me completely insane. It's not alternator whine, so it doesn't increase with throttle up, and it is only really noticeable when sitting still or going fairly slow. But, I know it's there and, for some reason, it just really bugs me.

I'm just surprised this has never been discussed on here before given that so many people are using 360s. To be honest, I'm not all that thrilled with the 360 general. It just isn't the most stable product out there. It has great features, but it just seems fragile to me. Oh well. Maybe I'll try the 360.3 after it has been out for a while.

adsoldschool

You bring up a good point with the system being "hot" due to bluetooth even when the headunit is off, hadn't thought of that. To answer your question as to why I'd like it "off", it sucks to be hearing a constant "hiss" coming out of the system when the sound is off.

cjj2d

I have my 3sixty.2 ran almost the same way only I have taken the speaker level wires from the factory amp and put RCA tips on them and used the RCA inputs on the 3sixty.2. I also did the jumper switch for the turnon of the amps.

I have no hiss what so ever. So play around with your wiring. have you used the troubleshooting from the RF website for ground noise, etc..??

csmeance

tap before the factory amplifier and that hiss will be gone. A few members have gotten rid of the factory amp and the white noise with it!

You may need a line driver for the signal for the 3.sixty to pickup a signal...

type r 01-1063

Do you still use the speaker level inputs or the RCA inputs for this solution for the hissing sound?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Old thread..but


I took the speaker wire for FL/FR pre-amp. If you're getting a loud noise, Check gains

type r 01-1063

Did you use the speaker level inputs on 3sixty.2 or RCA level inputs on 3sixty.2?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Speaker level in's. You just need to run the front left and front right into it also.