OK, so a couple of years ago I had someone install an amp for my sub for me. It was working fine until today.

I bought an "amp add-on kit" that basically used the existing power wire and all that. Included in the kit was a distribution block that distributed the power from the red 8-gauge wire connected to the battery to each amp. The pre-existing amp was already grounded.

I checked the fuses themselves on each amp, and they are fine. The connections are fine too. I checked the 50-amp fuse under the hood in line with the amplifier 8-gauge power cord, and that's fine too. I also checked the remote-in wire that is connected to the +12V ACC fuse in the under-dash fuse block, and that fuse is fine too.

Something is causing my amplifiers not to come on, and it's frustrating.

The pre-existing amplifier remote-in was connected to the +12V switched fuse in the under-dash fuse block. Is that OK? Like I said, I didn't have a problem with it until today when I went to install my new headunit.

Also, I made this wiring diagram for the new headunit. Are all the connections right based on the wiring diagram for the headunit and stock radio (below)? Do I connect the amplifier remote in from the new headunit to the blue wire from the pre-existing amplifier (the amp remote in)?



http://www.xplodsony.com/files/manua...all_Manual.pdf

Looking at the above installation manual, here is what I know (from the MEX-DV2000):

1.) Black - Ground
2.) Blue - Antenna Remote
3.) UNK Color - To Amplifier Remote In
4.) Lt. Blue - Attenuator (interface cable of car telephone)
5.) Orange/White - Illumination (+)
6.) Red - +12V Accessory (switched)
7.) Yellow - +12V (hot at all times)
8.) Lt. Green - Parking Brake


Since the Accord wiring diagrams could be found here:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=29160


I think what I have is right.

#1 above will go to the black ground wire, pin A20 from the Accord's audio unit.
#2 above will go to the yellow/green antenna power wire, pin A1 from the Accord's audio unit.
#3 above will go to the blue amplifier remote in on the aftermarket amp I have
#4 above will go to the interface cable of a car telephone, which I don't have. Could this be hooked up to the OEM navigation voice somehow?
#5 above will go to the red/black dim control wire, pin A9.
#6 above will go to the yellow/red switched ignition wire, pin A2.
#7 above will go to the white green battery input (hot at all times), pin A10.
#8 above will go to the parking brake wire, but could this wire be hooked up to ground?

I'm having a problem with a dead battery. The Honda dealer about three weeks ago said I needed a new battery, but I hope it's because the battery stinks, not because I wired something wrong.

If I used the new headunit to tap into the +12V ACC, +12V CONSTANT ON, ground, and antenna remote-in from the factory radio, would that kill my battery?

Please help!

 

If it is the AWG round fuse, change it to an ANL fuse (the blade type). I wasted time troubleshooting a similar problem because the AWG fuse was good, or looked good. The connections loose their conductivity over time and basically trick you into completely looking over the possibility of a bad fuse. ANL fuses are blade type and supposively work the best.

If it ends up not the fuse, I'd say wire your remote directly to the new headunit's remote wire (blue with white stripe). It should be lighter blue than the other blue wire, which should be for an auto antenna.

 

I found the problem. I think it was a loose remote-in wire to the +12V ACC fuse underneath the dash. I put it in more, and the amplifiers came on.

 

how is your 12V hooked up? Add a circuit? just wrapped into the fuse?

 

NOW it's hooked up to add-a-fuse connector, and now the amps won't work any more. This is frustrating because one minute it works, the next minute it does not. WTF!?