Where exactly is the amplifier mounted in the 04tl. Anyone familiar with who makes the amp? I'm guessing panasonic from other posts but don't know if it's powered from the head unit. Anyone have pics of speaker install? It would be nice to see fastners removed and I'm sure it would save me a lot of money in interior pieces!

 

Passenger-side footwell. Just in front of the door hinges, but on the inside of the car. Just to the side of the front passenger's right foot. You gotta pop a cover off to get to it. Peel back the threshold trim from the door and ease it off. Pretty tater, nothing hard......

 

Thanks for the info. I'm gonna go check it out now. Anyone install another amplifier yet? I need to get a manual bad! Does anyone have a electrical diagram for an 04' with navi?

 

I do - what are you looking to find out?

 

Looking for how I would input channels from the head unit to a new amp. ie. would I need to install line level convertors for each channel? How do the channels output from the head unit? Are there seperate speaker outs for all 6 channels? Basically I'd like to study the diagram so I could install some components and to help people on the forum. Maybe my post could be valid of a sticky! Heck, the diagram alone would be worthy.

 

sorry i'm a moron and didn't put this in the audio section.

 

No. This way could make sure other 3G members seeing this...

 

Sorry - Bringing this one back to life. Any answers yet?

 

I'd like to know too for my carputer project

 

The output from the audio system in the dash is line level, not amplified. Simple +/- wiring takes it to the 6 (5.1) channel amp in the front footwell of the passenger side. To improve, clip the factory wiring from the back of the factory audio unit. All surround sound processing is done in the unit. Convert to RCA cables, then run to new, quality amps, mounted wherever you want. From amps, run qualilty speaker wire to newspeakers. In front dash, tweeters and center speaker just pop out with slim tool or careful use of small screwdriver. Front door speakers require removal of door panel. Rear speakers and sub require simple removal of rear seat, rear seat back and rear deck. Must remove all rear speakers from top, not trunk. Good luck.

 

Sorry, I meant to say the output from the audio unit in the dash is pre-amp level, not speaker level, so no line level convertor is necessary, but you will have to somehow adapt the two wire +/- wiring to RCA cable. If you need the color codes on the wiring out of the audio unit, let me know.

 

pdphill: Where the is the factory voice command information put in the system? Is it out of the head unit or mixed in with the factory amp?

 

ok, i have the line level converter. can i just hook it up to the sub in the back? It has 2 sets of wires for two speakers. Further more, what color wire going to the amp can i use for my remote wire?

 

As far as I've seen, most common remote wire is blue or blue with a white stripe.

 

The HandsFreeLink Contol unit is fed into the audio unit

 

The "amp on" wire from the audio unit to the amp is C11 out of the audio unit, a red wire with yellow stripe. Although you can use a line level converter at the woofer, it would be much better to splice into the pre-amp level signal before it goes into the amp, then route to your new sub amp. This saves the slight degradation of the signal by not being amplified, then converted, then amplified again. Out of the back of the audio unit to the factory amp, the sub input wires are red with blue stripe for + and white with green stripe for -.

 

For a trunk sub/amp upgrade, I will probably splice the preamp lines as described, either at the head unit or their inputs to the amp. However, if tapping the speaker level wires at the sub, would their be a signal already be crossed over? Or is the cross over built in at the speaker? If built in at the amp, then you will suffer shallow low end bass, as I imagine the smallish 8 inch stock sub has low and high pass filtering. Another argument to tap in before the amp.
Lastly, has anyone had vibration/distortion with leaving the disconnected stock sub in when having a trunk mounted sub? I was thinking about removing the sub and just leaving the gril.
Thanks,
cnp

 

I was thinking of doing the same thing. Please post and let us know how it works for you!

Thanks!

 

Why not just replace the stock sub with an aftermarket free-air sub?

 

There Is 2 Plugs On The Factory Amp Which Is Which

 

the output of the factory headunit may be a "balanced" signal... as someone said, there was a "+" and "-" coming from the radio, it is possible that the - is not a "flat" signal, but 180 degrees inverted from the + signal... If this is true, while it may work to connect the "-" to the ground (shield) input on the amp/rca connector and the "+" to the center conductor, but, it could possibly be slightly bad on the headunit. If the output truely is a balanced signal, you could buy an amp that takes balanced inputs and that'd work a lot better!

 

can some1 help me with the remote wire on the factory amp am looking for it to connect my new amp

 

does any1 know the color code on the wiring out of the audio unit

 

does anybody know if the output is balanced??? Im sure you can check with a meter???????

 

Yes, audio output is balanced. If your amp doesn't have balanced input, you can use either + or - wire to feed it.

 

Not trying to hijack the thread but can anyone say if the headunit is M-Bus or AINet or compliant with another bus ?