If I were to install a new amp and also keep using the factory one I.E.
ONLY amping the front speakers with the new amp, can i splice in to the factory REMOTE, GROUND, and 12V CONSTANT that is in the wiring harness for the factory amp?
I'm not asking if it's advisable, I'm asking if it's do-able. I did it and the amp isn't powering up. Just wondering if there's a reason for this...

 

It should turn on. I doubt it will play very long. The stock circuit won't handle the kind of current most aftermarket amps will require. Likely start blowing fuses.

 

test amp with a known 12V source

 

Use a test light for the wires, be sure they are still working. Most likely the problem is that you dont have enough current or you have already melted the wires somewhere. Most amps use at least an 8 gauge. Never the less. i suggest you disconnect it and end your "wiring career" This is how you catch your car on fire.

However, if you are absolutely destine to half ass your car. I suggest just going to a junkyard to replace the speakers with something to the closest ohm and watt rating.

OR guy buy a nice pair of headphones.

I really hope this post was to prove a friend wrong.

 

NO

Do not use an incandescent test light in this car!

If you meant logic probe, ok, but under no circumstance use a traditional incandescent test light in a car with an airbag or computer system.

DMM is the best thing to use to test voltages in newer cars.

 

Yea, I would have said use a Power Probe or better yet a DMM, but considering his tactics, those are probably not on the menu. I do however find it interesting that you are more concerned about the airbag and computer when he's about to catch the damn car on fire. I bet your the kind of guy who grounds a wire out to see if its hot. You both probably change lanes without signaling too.

SO!

Since were talking about what should be done:
Take a DMM preferably a Fluke. Any real mechanic or electrician would agree that this is the only trustable brand. Be sure your meter is in the DC volt selection. If you have a decent meter it may just say "V" and an automatic detection. Attach the negative (black) probe to a good clean grounding source. Attach the positive (red) to the presumed full time power source. If the meter reads around 12v with key both on and off it means you still have good power. This step can be repeated with the presumed ignition wire but should only give a reading when key is on ACC or ON.

If you were unable to get a reading, check the fuses. If the fuses are popped, replace with the manufacturer suggested fuse. If it pops instantly, that means you have already melted the wire to a grounding source and you are pretty much royally screwed. Do not keep popping fuses, your only weakening your already weak wire. If your lucky, this can also set off the airbag and short your ECU in addition to countless fuckery.

Sorry for the rant, not sure why that post fucked me off something awful. I suppose I dislike when people try to justify wrong. Its like stealing something and blaming it on the owner for not locking the door.

 

By tapping the 12v+, ground and remote connections at the factory amplifier and running an aftermarket amp he is not going to set the car on fire. As soon as he pulls more than the 15A of current the circuit is rated at the fuse blows and no problem.

I have no idea what this guy knows or doesn't so I'm not gonna assume what kind of test equipment he has. I'm also going to be pretty specific if I suggest he goes probing wires.

I saw someone telling a guy who wants to hook up an amp to a factory wiring harness to start rooting around with a "test light". I figured detailed instruction may be in the OP's best interest based on the context of the thread.

I also have no idea how you were able to extrapolate what "kind of guy" I am based on either of the 2 posts I made in this thread. Nor how my turn signal tendencies have anything to with how to test circuits, or install audio equipment.

I don't know why you were fucked off so awful by my post either, but I'd likely not flip my shit to someone on topics like this if I had no idea of their background or experience.


To the OP, if you haven't figured it out yet, what you are suggesting is a pretty bad damn idea.

 

This is what I was getting at. I got a little excited. My apologies. The reason i bring up burning the car down is because he suggesting tapping into the "Constant" which is not always fused that low and could heat out of the insulation and cause a chain reaction between surrounding wires. Tesla hasnt figured out all the reasoning on this. haha. To add proof to this, I have personally seen wires melt before the fuse pops from a constant near peak of amps rather than a short. My bad to the OP considering he did mention he is not asking if it is advisable. As far as the blinker comment, I just thought that would add to the "prick" factor for a mild chuckle to readers

Sincerely, The prick of the post

 

It seems you both had valid points. Hug it out!

 

 

Well now I feel a slight need to defend myself haha :|
I in fact do own both a test light and a digi multimeter. However, the test light collects dust more than anything. And I have no reason to go to the junk yard and get a pair of speakers, as I have a $650 pair of Hybrid Audio Clarus components that I'm waiting for a good chunk of free time to install. Doors are already fully deadened, as is the trunk. So no, I don't half ass the installs. I only tapped in to those wires to see if the amp still works. When I connected them all up like so, the power light didn't come on so I wasn't sure if the amp is functional. I have a 25' length of 0 ga wire that I will be running to the trunk for my 1500 rms amp. I know about currents and amperage. This is why I included the part about me not caring if it was advisable as I had no intentions of actually running the amp in this fashion.
And as far as the blinker comment, I slit people's throats that don't signal. Hell, for the first two years of having my license I even found myself signaling into my driveway (which is on a one block street that sees maybe 5 cars per day).

 

But regardless, thanks for the advice guys. I didn't mean to step on any toes here.
I have truly upset the wiring gods....hahahaah. I wouldn't dream of continuously running a 2ch 150rmsX2 amp off the factory wiring. I'm not sure if you're familiar with it, but my wire stripper wouldn't even bite the wire and the smallest size wire it can functionally strip is 24g. Meaning the stock wiring is > 24g. Haha.

 

the stock V on the amp turn on circuit is to low to trigger your amp. need a separate trigger

 

Good to know, I thought my amp was fried out for a minute there and I paid quite a bit for it.

 

I call Bullshit. If you were testing an amp and you know anything about it, you're not going take time to strip panels to tap into a shit source. This means you have time to waste. So go ahead and use that time to install your bitchin speakers that probly won't fit.

I said good day