AustinClos

Hopefully I'm posting this in the right area, new to the site. Just trying to get some feedback from people. My aftermarket stuff isn't working. Have power coming from the battery to the amp, everything is grounded out, remote wire running from passenger side to the amp. Hi/lo converter connected to factory wires and RCA running to amp, but nothing. Power from the battery is good everything is hooked up correctly just don't know if there's something I could be missing. Any comments or feedback would be appreciated. Sick of having no boom in the trunk!

NoTLoud

Have you used a Line Out Converter before? Not sure exactly how yours works, but my experience was that it needs to be fed a remote signal and be grounded. I had issues getting it to work in my friends car when I helped install. Using a fuse tap for the remote wire? Make sure that the fuse you tapped is getting ignition switched power.

I installed a system in my TL, but I installed an aftermarket HU and bypassed the factory amp entirely. It requires some extra fabrication, but I didn't want to start hacking up factory wires if I ever were to sell the car. I still need to build a face-plate to go around my HU, finish the fiberglass work on the a-pillars, and get the factory tweeter grills to fit properly or fab something. Running a 4 way active set-up, so 3 amps and a DSP. Much tuning left to go, just waiting until work settles down and weather is warmer.

Where did you ground at? I am still looking for a better location that doesn't require hacking the car up too much. The fuel pump bolt is NOT recommended as if you short your system, chances are you will short your fuel pump.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

was it working and now it's not? or did it never work?

AustinClos

Never used a LOC, I just hooked everything up using guides on YouTube as well as on here. I didn't know anything about grounding out the LOC? My ground for the amp is in the trunk, it's just in the back somewhere scratched the paint off and made it happen without messing anything up. It hasn't ever worked, I just got my TL in November, I hooked it up the week I got it and it never worked but I just got irritated. Now I'm more irritated because there's no boom so I'm revisiting the issue lol

NoTLoud

Could you give me the brand and model of the LOC? I know for my friends you needed to send it a 12V signal (remote wire) and ground it. I may be a little off base here because this car may work a little differently since you can tap right from the factory sub and don't have to tap each of the rear speakers. Chances are though that you need the remote wire and ground to properly power the unit. You can then daisy chain the remote wire from the LOC to the amp.

Guessing this is not your first time installing a sub/amp, so I am going to assume it is an issue with fuse tap and the LOC. What are the inputs/outputs from your LOC? Amp should only need 12V+, ground, remote on, and RCA's, plus speaker wire to sub.

Essentially a LOC takes your factory subs speaker wires (low level inputs) and converts them directly to RCA's outputs (high level output). Read this: Line Output Converters. Try doing some more research. Search "Acura TL sound system" on YouTube. There's a dude who has a video (kinda shitty) walking through how he installed his sub/amp. I would link, but I can't at work.

Hope this helps!

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

the definitions provided in the post above me are not true....speaker level inputs are high and RCA are low lol

wiring depends entirely on the LOC. me and others use the PAC SNI-35 LOC which doesn't require any 12V or ground. usually just line drivers need that wiring because you are "driving" the signal or if you are using a LOC that also functions as a remote turn on for the amp. the LOC is merely just a step down device (takes higher voltage and makes it lower voltage).

if you use a LOC, wire it in after the stock amp. the stock amp puts out an amplified signal and drops the voltage so that your aftermarket amp can appropriately re-amp it again.

for troubleshooting why your setup is not working, does your amp turn on with your car? if not, do you have a remote turn on wire for your amp? the ground is probably fine. definitely order a LOC though, and you only need a cheap one like the one i used. this allows you to have oem sub control as well which is a nice bonus!

NoTLoud

Correct! Sorry, I was mixed up! Apologize for the confusion.

OP - sockr1 is also correct, some require power and some don't. I probably shouldn't be providing advice, as I've only ever installed one.

My best guess is that you have an issue with signal getting either to your LOC or your amp. Double check your fuse from the power wire on the battery. If the LOC isn't getting power, trace it back to the fuse tap. If the amp isn't getting power, then trace it back to the LOC.

AustinClos

Metra Two Channel Line Output Converter TC-LOC2 - Best Buy

This is the LOC I purchased. I have it tapped into the factory subwoofer wires, then obviously running RCA from there to my amp. I just find it weird that I'm not getting my amp to turn on, and it was working fine the week before I purchased my TL (transferred it from my Accord straight into the trunk of the TL)

Not sure what the issue could be. Everything is hooked up exactly like the link above (no this isn't my first rodeo btw lol) and the only thing different about what you guys are saying is running the remote wire to the LOC and then to my amp. I appreciate everyone's feedback a bunch hopefully I can get this thing working!

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

Where is your remote turn on coming from for the amp?
if your amp isn't turning on, it should be very simple to troubleshoot. there are only 3 key players: ground, power, and remote. just check each one and find out which one isn't working

pohljm

My guess is he is using the OEM remote turn on and it doesnt have enough juice to turn on the aftermarket amp