Aftermarket radio and stock navigation system
03-26-2017, 01:55 AM
#1
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Aftermarket radio and stock navigation system
I just installed a pioneer double din on my 2005 acura TL and not my navigation turns on but when I touch to enter the numbers it won't let me do nothing. Is there something I have to do to make them both work together ??? I need work asap
03-26-2017, 02:00 AM
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I mean my navigation **now it turns on but won't let me touch nothing. Any help please on making the navi work with a aftemarket radio
03-28-2017, 12:27 PM
#3
From this post on this thread --> https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-a.../#post13984936
ok this is what iv been workin on.
(just for the record not all these parts are stayin in. im lookin into gettin new stuff. i just had all this layin around.
alpine type s components all the way around. the older ones with the silk tweeter.
jlx 360/4 amp for the 2 sets of components.
monster 4 channel rcas. shielded.
2 gauge moster poer cable.
and im using and alpine cda-9815.
its alil old i know. but i like it. its got some good features built into it and its been kickin since 07. lol.
ok first of take the 26 pin grey plug front the back of the radio and you want to unpin 13 and 26. 13=blue 26=red.
and just so yall know. these are the only two wires that have to go into the oem radio for the nav screen to work and be responsive. it took me almost 8 hours to figure this out. i had been up for about 11 hours before i started this by the way.
next you want to go to a radio shack or some where that you can buy resistors (if you dont have them) you will need 68 ohm ones.
next put the resistor in the two unpined wires. blue and red. doesnt matter on direction of resistor.
then i clipped some of the lead off. and put heat shrink over both leads.
then heat the heat shrink. my heat gun is at my moms rite now so i used my fav lighter. lol. and yes its really a lighter. i have an ak 47 one too.
next i put more heat shrink on. you cant be to safe. rite?
and now with that said you are ready to use ur nava again.
now let me say this. i have not used the voice stuff for the nav and i dont care that its gone. ill do some digging and see if i can figure out away to get it to work. you also loose you hands free and blue tooth stuff. idc about that cuz i dont talk on the phone when im driven. ill look into it and see what i can find out about gettin it workin again.
this what it looks like with the radio in the oem spot. it bolted rite to where the oem was and holes lined up perfect. to get power, memory, and ground i just taped into the factory harness for the radio. I DID NOT CUT ANY WIRES TO DO THIS. the oem radio can be replaced and go back to stock if need be.
and also. my clock still works along with all my hvafc read out up top.
ill try and get a video of everything workin up soon. all this is from my phone so please work with the pics. they seem ok to me tho.
o yea before i forget. this is how far i went to track down what was makin the nav work. lol.
and here is the circuit board where the plugs go into the back of the radio.
if didnt explain anything well enough feel free to ask. ill help as much as i can.
(just for the record not all these parts are stayin in. im lookin into gettin new stuff. i just had all this layin around.
alpine type s components all the way around. the older ones with the silk tweeter.
jlx 360/4 amp for the 2 sets of components.
monster 4 channel rcas. shielded.
2 gauge moster poer cable.
and im using and alpine cda-9815.
its alil old i know. but i like it. its got some good features built into it and its been kickin since 07. lol.
ok first of take the 26 pin grey plug front the back of the radio and you want to unpin 13 and 26. 13=blue 26=red.
and just so yall know. these are the only two wires that have to go into the oem radio for the nav screen to work and be responsive. it took me almost 8 hours to figure this out. i had been up for about 11 hours before i started this by the way.
next you want to go to a radio shack or some where that you can buy resistors (if you dont have them) you will need 68 ohm ones.
next put the resistor in the two unpined wires. blue and red. doesnt matter on direction of resistor.
then i clipped some of the lead off. and put heat shrink over both leads.
then heat the heat shrink. my heat gun is at my moms rite now so i used my fav lighter. lol. and yes its really a lighter. i have an ak 47 one too.
next i put more heat shrink on. you cant be to safe. rite?
and now with that said you are ready to use ur nava again.
now let me say this. i have not used the voice stuff for the nav and i dont care that its gone. ill do some digging and see if i can figure out away to get it to work. you also loose you hands free and blue tooth stuff. idc about that cuz i dont talk on the phone when im driven. ill look into it and see what i can find out about gettin it workin again.
this what it looks like with the radio in the oem spot. it bolted rite to where the oem was and holes lined up perfect. to get power, memory, and ground i just taped into the factory harness for the radio. I DID NOT CUT ANY WIRES TO DO THIS. the oem radio can be replaced and go back to stock if need be.
and also. my clock still works along with all my hvafc read out up top.
ill try and get a video of everything workin up soon. all this is from my phone so please work with the pics. they seem ok to me tho.
o yea before i forget. this is how far i went to track down what was makin the nav work. lol.
and here is the circuit board where the plugs go into the back of the radio.
if didnt explain anything well enough feel free to ask. ill help as much as i can.