BlueAc

iTrader: (2)

I know there are a few guys on here that a familiar with the 3Sixty.2 and I wanted see if I could get help with a problem I'm having. About 3 weeks ago I had my system installed in my '07 TL. It consist of a 3Sixty.2, PDX 4.100, PDX 1.600, Focal Speakers front/rear and a JL 12W6V2. Everything was fine for maybe the first few days, then the troubles came. The first problem was the sub would just cut out whe I was listening at levels above 30 on the stock radio. If I turned the car off and back on the sub would come back on brielfly then go right back off. The problem at first was just the sub but then the same thing started happening with the mids/highs as well. I could be listening to the music at any level now and it would just shut off but then I would start hearing a popping sound coming thru all speakers and it would continue even when the radio itself was turned off. Yesterday I went back to the shop that did the install and the guy told me the problem was the 3Sixty.2, he said it had "bad outputs" and that I need to send it back for a new one. Have any of you guys running one had any problem similar to what I mentioned?

I'm thinking that if it did go bad it had something to do with the install. There were a few things that I noticed that I just didn't find normal.

1. The popping heard thru my speakers continued even once I turned the radio off. The only way I was able to make it stop was by turning the car off.

2. I removed the fuses from the cicuit breaker because the popping noise would start at any given moment even with the radio off. When I went to remove the fuses the breaker was "arching" like crazy. Should it do that even when the car is turned off?

3. The blue LED on volume knob stayed lit even when the car was turned off. Is that normal? I would think that the LED would only light up when the car was on.

Can anybody offer any suggestions off what they think is happening? I'm pissed that I've invested so much and waited so long to get my system up and running and have nothing to show for it!

MWalsh9152

I cant be of help with the 3sixty problem, but if you go onto RF's website they have a forum that several of their knowledgable employees frequent and offer help with questions like yours.

I saw your post on DIY a while back about selling off the zapco stuff and tried to PM you but didnt get a response...do you still have any of the 1' symbilink cables? If so I am looking for one

BlueAc

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I already posted over there... they stated that I should have them call the shop and they'll troubleshoot it with them. But the shop didn't, they just said it was bad and pulled it out. My fear is that I get a new one, they slap it back in and I get the same problem again!

PM sent about the the cable...

jnc2000

If somethings cutting out it may be a power / grounding issue. How did the shop wire up the amps and 3Sixty? What did they use for a 12v constant. How are the grounds? (where are they located, paint scraped away, grounding location etc) How are the amps getting the remote turn on signal? with 2 amps the shop most likely is using a relay of some sort...

Do you have a DMM?

How conformable are you with your car and electronics. We can help you troubleshoot but in the end it is your skill level that is going to determine how far we can go.

csmeance

The blue ring is the first clue. You might have a defective radio. Did this issue happen before the install?

BlueAc

iTrader: (2)

I'm not to good with DMM, I have one from an old job but I never really used it. Maybe you can walk me thru it when u get some time!

BlueAc

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, maybe I need to clarify. The blue light that stayed on was on the 3Sixty.2's volume knob, not the radio.

csmeance

ah... the 3.sixty shouldn't be powered on with the car off, so they tapped a bad trigger wire. Take it to the shop and tell them that. They should fix it. My guess is that the 3.sixty is overheating staying on trying to processes a non-existant signal.

BlueAc

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking that had something to do with it... but I didn't know what! I was getting noises thru the speakers even when I had the radio off, now i know why. Thx alot!

Trew

iTrader: (1)

I have almost the same setup as you do and i don't have ANY problems.

The 3Sixty.2 will remain powered on for a minute or 2 after the car is turned off, even if you have power coming from a switched source. If the 3Sixty is visible try looking at the power LED on the unit. If the red light is flashing, there is a problem. If it's steady then all is well (Note: when you're connected via bluetooth it will also light up blue). The problem sounds like bad grounds, especially since it started happening with the sub amp first. subs require more current.

You should start by checking your grounds. Suggestions above are good. If that has no effect, try disconnecting the inputs/outputs to the 3Sixty and see if the popping or clipping goes away. Process of elimination might be the way to go here if you want to find out what's causing the problem.

Let us know how it goes...

BlueAc

iTrader: (2)

I just got off the phone w/ RF and the rep stated that he doubts the actual 3Sixty is the problem. But he still gave me an RA# to send it in for a check up. Even if it is bad I believe the problem is in the wiring. Is there anybody who can give me some troubleshooting tips on what to look for... especially when using the DMM.

KINEMATRIX

iTrader: (1)

Did you ever get your problems fixed? Mine started acting up and started shutting off. when I touch the 3sixty.2 it's pretty damn hot. When this happens, red light on the unit do flash.

rodneyc77

iTrader: (1)

I think the issue is the factory Amplifier...

I completely bypassed it... I soldered RCA to the speaker signals coming out of the Factory Radio and plugged it to the RCA input of the 3Sixty.2... Perfect... and no EQ adjustments depending on volume like the factory amp used to do...

KINEMATRIX

iTrader: (1)

so the signal from the HU was sufficient for the 3sixty to handle? there was no hissing or sound level loss to deal with?

rodneyc77

iTrader: (1)

The hiss depends on the quality of the RCAs, Ground Quality and proper gain adjustment on your amplifiers...

I'm no expert... but if you're using a 0 awg power wire... then you should upgrade your battery negative wire to 0 awg...

I for one don't have HISS... and the sound level is perfect for the 3sixty.2

Trew

iTrader: (1)

This is very tempting...

Rodney how did you address the center channel? Did you leave that on the factory amp?

rodneyc77

iTrader: (1)

I got that baby amplified with 150 Watts... I put a Critical Mass RS5 in there powered by a PDX-250.2... the navigation lady never sounded better...

All factory options are retained... without the Factory Amplifier volume dependent EQ...

BukvaMan

i have mine curently wired up trough the factory amp... for a while now but ive be always thinking to bypass it, which i will do in the following weeks. The factory amplifier does overheat when you listen to 30 and above for a while, so that might be your culprit there.

Nick337

iTrader: (2)

do you have a fused distribution block? if so it might be melted, I know this cause it has happened to my car, the sub amp jl1000 melted the big fuse, to remedy this i ran a straight power cable straight to the amp, and problem solved.

To the hissing problem, you probably have the gains on the 3sixty2 set too high

BlueAc

iTrader: (2)

RF sent me a brand new one b/c they didn't have any refurb's available. I haven't had any problems since. Buying authorized FTW!!!