Your thoughts: clutch replacement and sticky pedal.
10-12-2022, 04:08 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Your thoughts: clutch replacement and sticky pedal.
Hello, forum people, I wanted to get your thoughts on an issue I’m having: my clutch pedal doesn’t always come back up. I can pull it back up with my foot and all is fine. Reading around here some have had this happen after they drove it hard, but I don’t really drive hard. I currently have around 112k miles on the clock, car is a 2018.
The fix, from what I see has been either hydraulic leak or the throw out bearing and clutch (please correct me if I’m wrong).
I did check for any hydraulic leaks, I didn’t see anything… Car is at the dealer now, They don’t see any leaks either and they suggested it’s the clutch and throw out bearing too, but they want me to replace the flywheel as well. Here is one issue, they can’t get a flywheel. The other issue is the price, while on the phone I was told $1800 for flywheel and $2200 for clutch and throw out bearing. I didn’t have time to chat much, I don’t know how much is labor and how much is parts, but I assume I can talk them down some since I assume most of that labor is the divorce and marriage of the engine and transmission and there is some overlap there with the job.
My question is, do I really need a flywheel? Dealer said if I find aftermarket parts they can install those, any suggestions?
I welcome any advice from the wise ones here
thanks in advance!
The fix, from what I see has been either hydraulic leak or the throw out bearing and clutch (please correct me if I’m wrong).
I did check for any hydraulic leaks, I didn’t see anything… Car is at the dealer now, They don’t see any leaks either and they suggested it’s the clutch and throw out bearing too, but they want me to replace the flywheel as well. Here is one issue, they can’t get a flywheel. The other issue is the price, while on the phone I was told $1800 for flywheel and $2200 for clutch and throw out bearing. I didn’t have time to chat much, I don’t know how much is labor and how much is parts, but I assume I can talk them down some since I assume most of that labor is the divorce and marriage of the engine and transmission and there is some overlap there with the job.
My question is, do I really need a flywheel? Dealer said if I find aftermarket parts they can install those, any suggestions?
I welcome any advice from the wise ones here
thanks in advance!
10-12-2022, 04:32 PM
#2
Suzuka Master
Hello, forum people, I wanted to get your thoughts on an issue I’m having: my clutch pedal doesn’t always come back up. I can pull it back up with my foot and all is fine. Reading around here some have had this happen after they drove it hard, but I don’t really drive hard. I currently have around 112k miles on the clock, car is a 2018.
The fix, from what I see has been either hydraulic leak or the throw out bearing and clutch (please correct me if I’m wrong).
I did check for any hydraulic leaks, I didn’t see anything… Car is at the dealer now, They don’t see any leaks either and they suggested it’s the clutch and throw out bearing too, but they want me to replace the flywheel as well. Here is one issue, they can’t get a flywheel. The other issue is the price, while on the phone I was told $1800 for flywheel and $2200 for clutch and throw out bearing. I didn’t have time to chat much, I don’t know how much is labor and how much is parts, but I assume I can talk them down some since I assume most of that labor is the divorce and marriage of the engine and transmission and there is some overlap there with the job.
My question is, do I really need a flywheel? Dealer said if I find aftermarket parts they can install those, any suggestions?
I welcome any advice from the wise ones here
thanks in advance!
The fix, from what I see has been either hydraulic leak or the throw out bearing and clutch (please correct me if I’m wrong).
I did check for any hydraulic leaks, I didn’t see anything… Car is at the dealer now, They don’t see any leaks either and they suggested it’s the clutch and throw out bearing too, but they want me to replace the flywheel as well. Here is one issue, they can’t get a flywheel. The other issue is the price, while on the phone I was told $1800 for flywheel and $2200 for clutch and throw out bearing. I didn’t have time to chat much, I don’t know how much is labor and how much is parts, but I assume I can talk them down some since I assume most of that labor is the divorce and marriage of the engine and transmission and there is some overlap there with the job.
My question is, do I really need a flywheel? Dealer said if I find aftermarket parts they can install those, any suggestions?
I welcome any advice from the wise ones here
thanks in advance!
Phil,
You can order Clutch and flywheel on Rock Auto, make sure you get LUK. LUK is OEM part supplier; I highly recommend you replace the fly wheel when you are replacing the clutch for best driving experience. When you do replace the clutch, please have the rear main seal replace as well. It the main seal and the o-ring reside behind the plate. Ask the dealer if they have the pressure plate reset tools as clutch does not come preset from factory.
Rock auto LUK clutch kit and flywheel kit could be obtained around $400. MAKE SURE you get OEM pilot bearing and throw out bearing (DO NOT USE the one that come in LUK kit). Labor should be around 8-10 hours last time I got quoted by a local Honda specialty shop was $1100 (I bring my own part)s that including the rear main seal as well. Acura dealer is over $2500 in LABOR ONLY
If you need to ask anything else feel free to hit me up on PM.
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PhilB81 (10-13-2022)
10-12-2022, 05:55 PM
#3
This could easily just be a hydraulic issue. Did you check the fluid level in your master cylinder?
Make sure whomever does your clutch has, and will use, the proper self adjusting clutch tool.
Make sure whomever does your clutch has, and will use, the proper self adjusting clutch tool.
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PhilB81 (10-13-2022)
10-12-2022, 07:56 PM
#4
I would try to find an indy Honda/Acura shop and bring in the parts that Truong listed. Would also have anything replaced that is easily accessible while the subframe is dropped if you need to, such as motor/trans mounts. Maybe the dealer near you is good, but around me they are terrible.
I had a similar issue when I had an OEM clutch, but only at high RPM shifts. Replaced the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder, but it didn't fix the issue until I replaced the clutch. Just my experience, would definitely check the fluid level to start.
I had a similar issue when I had an OEM clutch, but only at high RPM shifts. Replaced the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder, but it didn't fix the issue until I replaced the clutch. Just my experience, would definitely check the fluid level to start.
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PhilB81 (10-13-2022)
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PhilB81 (10-13-2022)
10-12-2022, 11:14 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
If its not hydraulics, its most likely the pressure plate and self adjusting clutch. Like many before have said in many threads, replace it all at the same time and be done with it: pressure plate, clutch disc, throw out bearing. Up you whether you resurface or replace the flywheel. It's easily a half day job on these cars, so lot of labor $, not to mention part markups if you have a shop do it. just the reality of not working on your own cars. GL
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PhilB81 (10-13-2022)
10-13-2022, 07:51 AM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thank you all for the replies! I’ll browse rock auto this afternoon and see what I find. @truonghthe thanks for the clarification on when to stick to OEM!
I think I’ll let the dealer do the work, they have done ok so far, I have not shopped around to find other shops in the area and I don’t want to go on a ‘first date’ with a job like this. After using Arbys and Burger King coupons for so many years I have a little saved up and the TL is important enough that I’ll break the piggy bank to get it done right
I will ask them to check the mounts as suggested, that’s a good idea, I know I replaced them I just can’t remember when.
Regarding the hydraulic fluid level, I’ll ask them again, my understanding is that those were fine, but I didn’t check that myself, duh…
Again, many thanks!
I think I’ll let the dealer do the work, they have done ok so far, I have not shopped around to find other shops in the area and I don’t want to go on a ‘first date’ with a job like this. After using Arbys and Burger King coupons for so many years I have a little saved up and the TL is important enough that I’ll break the piggy bank to get it done right
I will ask them to check the mounts as suggested, that’s a good idea, I know I replaced them I just can’t remember when.
Regarding the hydraulic fluid level, I’ll ask them again, my understanding is that those were fine, but I didn’t check that myself, duh…
Again, many thanks!
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10-13-2022, 02:07 PM
#10
You can resurface a dual mass flywheel.
The stock clutch is organic material. So, 9 times out of 10, you can resurface it with a hand held drill and paint stripper brush or something, if you're part hillbilly enough.
Make sure the release bearing guide sleeve is still smooth and not barreled or galled. IIRC, on the J series, its not replaceable as it's part of the trans casting. If it is replaceable then 200% for sure replace it.
The stock clutch is organic material. So, 9 times out of 10, you can resurface it with a hand held drill and paint stripper brush or something, if you're part hillbilly enough.
Make sure the release bearing guide sleeve is still smooth and not barreled or galled. IIRC, on the J series, its not replaceable as it's part of the trans casting. If it is replaceable then 200% for sure replace it.
10-13-2022, 04:29 PM
#11
The following 2 users liked this post by jeffstlnote:
PhilB81 (10-14-2022),
truonghthe (10-14-2022)
10-27-2022, 09:57 AM
#13
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I got the TL-S back yesterday, so I wanted to say thanks for the flywheel recommendation and advice on other bits to replace while in there. It was great to be back behind the wheel yesterday!
also, just for reference, I used the following transmission fluid:
ACDelco
10-4014
88900399
i had to order it from Amazon, I couldn’t find it locally, also I had to use the old number (88900399) to search, using the 10-4014 had results but they only had 1 available and I wanted it quick…
thank you again forum people!
also, just for reference, I used the following transmission fluid:
ACDelco
10-4014
88900399
i had to order it from Amazon, I couldn’t find it locally, also I had to use the old number (88900399) to search, using the 10-4014 had results but they only had 1 available and I wanted it quick…
thank you again forum people!
10-27-2022, 10:48 PM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I posted my thoughts on my TLX loaner
https://acurazine.com/forums/6g-tlx-...ience-1001030/
im looking forward to the battle between the “Acura lost its way, Germans are better” and the “Acura honda; in sickness and in health, till death do us part” camps.
sorry for triple posting, it was too late to edit
https://acurazine.com/forums/6g-tlx-...ience-1001030/
im looking forward to the battle between the “Acura lost its way, Germans are better” and the “Acura honda; in sickness and in health, till death do us part” camps.
sorry for triple posting, it was too late to edit
10-28-2022, 06:43 AM
#15
Suzuka Master
Glad it all works out for you Phil, the new Acura product is in the most territory of what old Acura fan love and what the current market has to offer. I would think the current TLX would be doing ok if they released in 2015 in place of 1G TLX. How is your clutch pedal feel now? I bet it's like getting into a new car.
10-28-2022, 12:32 PM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Glad it all works out for you Phil, the new Acura product is in the most territory of what old Acura fan love and what the current market has to offer. I would think the current TLX would be doing ok if they released in 2015 in place of 1G TLX. How is your clutch pedal feel now? I bet it's like getting into a new car.
yeah I definitely liked the 2nd gen TLX better than the 1st gen I had during another service, maybe my water pump and belts service, I don’t remember…
as far as the new clutch feel, way better. It was starting to feel a bit rubbery when pressing the pedal, now it’s a well oiled movement.
it is grabbing closer to the floor than what I remember, oddly I only notice it starting from first but switching gears I didn’t have a shift refused because I didn’t have the clutch far down enough. I suspect it’ll go back to normal after a few more miles. I vaguely remember when my cousin got an upgraded clutch on his turbo AWD Talon and initially it was really hard not to stall it.
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