Worst Luck ever!! This car is fighting me, I swear!
#1
Worst Luck ever!! This car is fighting me, I swear!
Well after getting my stuck lock nuts removed https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/tahoe-new-years-165027/ I got down to doing my brakes. When doing the last one, drivers front I was removing the caliper bolts only to find that the bottom one was cross threaded into the caliper. I'm not sure how to fix this or who to bitch at because my brembo caliper is fucked.
This has been a brutal weekend working on this thing, who would have thought it would take 3 days to do my brakes. I totally regret not going to the dealer and getting them done.
This has been a brutal weekend working on this thing, who would have thought it would take 3 days to do my brakes. I totally regret not going to the dealer and getting them done.
#3
WDP Director of R & D
Are you able to drill/tap and go to the next thread size (possibly even an English size etc.)?
Looks more like the bolt was seized to the aluminum vs cross threaded. Cross threading will definitely result in stripping yet the way the aluminum is stuck to the bolt is unusual - especially if it can't be peeled out of the threads with a fingernail etc..
Good luck
Looks more like the bolt was seized to the aluminum vs cross threaded. Cross threading will definitely result in stripping yet the way the aluminum is stuck to the bolt is unusual - especially if it can't be peeled out of the threads with a fingernail etc..
Good luck
#4
The problem is the "pros" are the ones that caused it to begin with. I was removing the bolt and it was like that. I wonder what they would have done at the stealership. I'm going to have my friend come over tomorrow who works in the tool and die industry, hopefully one of their high end tap and dye sets can fix this.
#5
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You can buy a tool at your local hardware store to re-thred the holes. I'm no mechanic, but I know my brother has stripped quite a few bolts / nuts and had to re-thread them. I'm not sure if this is recommended for this particular situation, but I'd definitely check with your local auto store then maybe sears for the tool.
#6
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This is one of the reasons I don't futz around with brakes. I pay the $$$ and let the professionals deal with them. And in the case of my Brembos, I let Acura do the work.
Brakes are too critical for safety to mess with unless you already have a lot of experience doing them along with all the right tools and equipment.
Brakes are too critical for safety to mess with unless you already have a lot of experience doing them along with all the right tools and equipment.
#7
06 TL 6spd. Navi/A-spec
Well just hope the tap and dye may work, it looks like you pulled out some threads so just hope that the bolt will tighten and not just spin. Heat could be the culprit in causing this too happen!
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#10
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You'll probably need an insert because there appears to be a quite a few threads stripped out of the hole. Helicoil is a pretty good choice. Better yet is a product called Time-Sert. The Helicoil looks like a spring while the Time-Sert is a threaded sleeve. Both can be installed by someone with a moderate level of skill, an electric drill and a tap holder. Helicoils can be found in auto parts stores; the Time-Serts may have to be ordered on the net. Both are available in kits with the drill bit and tap. The last Time-Sert kit I bought, 8mm size, cost about $60. You will need a larger size. An alternative might be to use a longer bolt and put a nut on the portion that protrudes from the back but you'll have to check for interference and find a longer hardened metric bolt.
#11
Originally Posted by flanso
You'll probably need an insert because there appears to be a quite a few threads stripped out of the hole. Helicoil is a pretty good choice. Better yet is a product called Time-Sert. The Helicoil looks like a spring while the Time-Sert is a threaded sleeve. Both can be installed by someone with a moderate level of skill, an electric drill and a tap holder. Helicoils can be found in auto parts stores; the Time-Serts may have to be ordered on the net. Both are available in kits with the drill bit and tap. The last Time-Sert kit I bought, 8mm size, cost about $60. You will need a larger size. An alternative might be to use a longer bolt and put a nut on the portion that protrudes from the back but you'll have to check for interference and find a longer hardened metric bolt.
#12
Well it's all buttoned up now, I ended up taping it. Sadly the thread size they use from the factory is essentially retarted and can not be bought off the shelf anywhere. It's a M14 150 which is not common in most tap and dye sets or for individual sale. Lucky for me my best friend is a tool and dye maker who has key's to his shop, he even had a hard time finding this tap in the shop as it's rather uncommon, luckily he turned one up and tapped it out for me. As for the bolt again it's an un standard size so I couldn't simply buy a new one. I was able to chip out all the excess aluminum with a small file, hit it with a wire brush on the dremel and she was good as new. Got it torqued down to factor spec and everything seems hunky doorey.
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