Why are stock ECU's not at full potential?
Why are stock ECU's not at full potential?
In other words why do all these car companies leave so much room for improvement in their software? Is it emissions, longevity, or what.
also i read somewhere that running lean makes the car better on gas and faster at the same time. Is that true? seems false to me
also i read somewhere that running lean makes the car better on gas and faster at the same time. Is that true? seems false to me
Running lean can increase internal temperatures and can lead to pre-ignition (ping) and worse, detonation. The ECU will have to retard ignition timing to compensate. This will result in loss of power (not to mention less fuel being burned per engine cycle) and lower fuel economy. The ideal ratio at sea level is 14.7:1 which is 14.7 parts atmospheric air to one part fuel.
No aftermarket tuner is going to give you a 50-100K mile warranty. Manufacturers will. Also they tune them a little sloppy on purpose for comfort. Quick throttle response and quicker/firmer shifts will not make grandmas happy. Most people just want a comfortable car cause they're busy playing with their phone or singing along with the radio.
^^^Audi really? BMW yes their number look like a joke but the 0-60 mph and 1/4 mile number reflect something else. For instance the new 328i listed only 250hp but 0-60 is 5.5, 1/4 13.9, god that is the same time as 2013 Accord V6 MT which rate at 278hp. I do understand that BMW TQ came really early some thing like at 1200 RPM.
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^^^Audi really? BMW yes their number look like a joke but the 0-60 mph and 1/4 mile number reflect something else. For instance the new 328i listed only 250hp but 0-60 is 5.5, 1/4 13.9, god that is the same time as 2013 Accord V6 MT which rate at 278hp. I do understand that BMW TQ came really early some thing like at 1200 RPM.
As far as the OE ECU, as has been stated above, it is programmed for the best overall fuel mileage and relative lively performace, within reason.
On one of my cars, everything stock, but replaced just the ECU with a G-Force unit and the HP jumped from 200 HP from the factory to 305 HP and it only took 15 minutes, and the only other item that needed to be installed was a fuel pump upgrade.
Last edited by Turbonut; May 29, 2013 at 04:24 PM.
No aftermarket tuner is going to give you a 50-100K mile warranty. Manufacturers will. Also they tune them a little sloppy on purpose for comfort. Quick throttle response and quicker/firmer shifts will not make grandmas happy. Most people just want a comfortable car cause they're busy playing with their phone or singing along with the radio.
^^^Audi really? BMW yes their number look like a joke but the 0-60 mph and 1/4 mile number reflect something else. For instance the new 328i listed only 250hp but 0-60 is 5.5, 1/4 13.9, god that is the same time as 2013 Accord V6 MT which rate at 278hp. I do understand that BMW TQ came really early some thing like at 1200 RPM.
I had the pleasure of driving a 6.0 GTO this weekend.
it was less than impressive.
suspension sucked, very heavy, horrible fuel economy.
these are trade off's for the torque and sound from a v8.
but thats it. torque and sound.
I'd rather have a full all around package like the TL.
P.S. even tho it was RWD, the TL out handles The Judge, easily.
they can be quite fast with a stage II tune, 335i with stage II using Cobb AP custom tune can launch the car into 12s mark in 1/4 miles meanwhile I never seen any TL broke into the 12s mark even with S/C added (except for one TL-S with NSX rim up front running slick and doing 150-200 shoot of nos. timer was 12.6-12.8 in 1/4 mile track)
Mostly emissions and CAFE. Plus reliability of course. They have to assume that you may get bad batches of fuel, etc. However on a NA car there isn't normally a ton of gain just on a ECU tune. Turbo cars are another matter.
Most cars naturally aspirated don't leave that much on the table from the factory considering everything uses a knock sensor.
There are two ways to increase power, timing and A/F ratio (and boost). Detonation is the main reason factory engineers don't try and get every last hp but they come really close. Knock sensors used to be a backup just in case the cars pinged. Now in many cars knock sensors are used as part of the tuning. They're always running at the threshold of detonation. Not much to gain if at all unless you're using higher than required octane.
The old saying "leaner is meaner" holds true some of the time. It's usually used for forced induction. I'll keep AF ratios around 12.5:1 overall but that's with meth injection so it's not entirely as rich as it sounds. On race gas I'll go 13.0, even 13.2:1 since detonation and preignition are no longer issues.
AFR can be changed richer or leaner depending on how the car comes from the factory. Leaner will make more power assuming more detonation to a point but after that point you start raising combustion temps with little to no gain and even a loss of power and that's assuming no detonation.
Some cars have some sort of torque management to protect parts but I don't think the TL has anything of the sort other than shutting the throttle during shifts on the 5at. And the less power on the early or was it late models was for torque steer, not parts breakage.
Manufacturers have to assume the worst. The occasional tank of 87, the idiots with the pedal to the floor all the time no matter how loaded down the car is with weight or how hot it is outside. These cars are sold over a variety of climates and it's hard to perfectly optimize them for every possible condition.
There are two ways to increase power, timing and A/F ratio (and boost). Detonation is the main reason factory engineers don't try and get every last hp but they come really close. Knock sensors used to be a backup just in case the cars pinged. Now in many cars knock sensors are used as part of the tuning. They're always running at the threshold of detonation. Not much to gain if at all unless you're using higher than required octane.
The old saying "leaner is meaner" holds true some of the time. It's usually used for forced induction. I'll keep AF ratios around 12.5:1 overall but that's with meth injection so it's not entirely as rich as it sounds. On race gas I'll go 13.0, even 13.2:1 since detonation and preignition are no longer issues.
AFR can be changed richer or leaner depending on how the car comes from the factory. Leaner will make more power assuming more detonation to a point but after that point you start raising combustion temps with little to no gain and even a loss of power and that's assuming no detonation.
Some cars have some sort of torque management to protect parts but I don't think the TL has anything of the sort other than shutting the throttle during shifts on the 5at. And the less power on the early or was it late models was for torque steer, not parts breakage.
Manufacturers have to assume the worst. The occasional tank of 87, the idiots with the pedal to the floor all the time no matter how loaded down the car is with weight or how hot it is outside. These cars are sold over a variety of climates and it's hard to perfectly optimize them for every possible condition.
^^^Audi really? BMW yes their number look like a joke but the 0-60 mph and 1/4 mile number reflect something else. For instance the new 328i listed only 250hp but 0-60 is 5.5, 1/4 13.9, god that is the same time as 2013 Accord V6 MT which rate at 278hp. I do understand that BMW TQ came really early some thing like at 1200 RPM.
Most cars naturally aspirated don't leave that much on the table from the factory considering everything uses a knock sensor.
There are two ways to increase power, timing and A/F ratio (and boost). Detonation is the main reason factory engineers don't try and get every last hp but they come really close. Knock sensors used to be a backup just in case the cars pinged. Now in many cars knock sensors are used as part of the tuning. They're always running at the threshold of detonation. Not much to gain if at all unless you're using higher than required octane.
The old saying "leaner is meaner" holds true some of the time. It's usually used for forced induction. I'll keep AF ratios around 12.5:1 overall but that's with meth injection so it's not entirely as rich as it sounds. On race gas I'll go 13.0, even 13.2:1 since detonation and preignition are no longer issues.
AFR can be changed richer or leaner depending on how the car comes from the factory. Leaner will make more power assuming more detonation to a point but after that point you start raising combustion temps with little to no gain and even a loss of power and that's assuming no detonation.
Some cars have some sort of torque management to protect parts but I don't think the TL has anything of the sort other than shutting the throttle during shifts on the 5at. And the less power on the early or was it late models was for torque steer, not parts breakage.
Manufacturers have to assume the worst. The occasional tank of 87, the idiots with the pedal to the floor all the time no matter how loaded down the car is with weight or how hot it is outside. These cars are sold over a variety of climates and it's hard to perfectly optimize them for every possible condition.
There are two ways to increase power, timing and A/F ratio (and boost). Detonation is the main reason factory engineers don't try and get every last hp but they come really close. Knock sensors used to be a backup just in case the cars pinged. Now in many cars knock sensors are used as part of the tuning. They're always running at the threshold of detonation. Not much to gain if at all unless you're using higher than required octane.
The old saying "leaner is meaner" holds true some of the time. It's usually used for forced induction. I'll keep AF ratios around 12.5:1 overall but that's with meth injection so it's not entirely as rich as it sounds. On race gas I'll go 13.0, even 13.2:1 since detonation and preignition are no longer issues.
AFR can be changed richer or leaner depending on how the car comes from the factory. Leaner will make more power assuming more detonation to a point but after that point you start raising combustion temps with little to no gain and even a loss of power and that's assuming no detonation.
Some cars have some sort of torque management to protect parts but I don't think the TL has anything of the sort other than shutting the throttle during shifts on the 5at. And the less power on the early or was it late models was for torque steer, not parts breakage.
Manufacturers have to assume the worst. The occasional tank of 87, the idiots with the pedal to the floor all the time no matter how loaded down the car is with weight or how hot it is outside. These cars are sold over a variety of climates and it's hard to perfectly optimize them for every possible condition.
Looking at some of the meager power numbers the Flashpro is producing on the the few TL's that have it is a bit disappointing. Granted, it has other benefits, like eliminating the Vtec dip, smoothing out the idle after induction work and best of all, eliminating rev hang.
Manufacturers have to assume the worst. The occasional tank of 87, the idiots with the pedal to the floor all the time no matter how loaded down the car is with weight or how hot it is outside. These cars are sold over a variety of climates and it's hard to perfectly optimize them for every possible condition.
They keep the settings away from the very edge of performance so the car won't ping itself to death in short order because the timing is too advanced, fuel too lean, etc.--all in order to make just a couple more horsepower.
The ECU tuners use precise maps that reduce these safety margins, but eek out gains in pure HP and torque. Some of these programs are very sophisticated, but for normally aspirated cars the returns are usually subtle. And at the very edge of this tuning are diminishing returns in HP. Everything comes with a price--for example, I always had to run 93 in my Z or damage the engine.
Most people just aren't as crazy as we are, and car manufacturers must make highly reliable cars to stay in business.
Last edited by dannyz; May 30, 2013 at 09:35 PM.
Manufacturers have to assume the worst. The occasional tank of 87, the idiots with the pedal to the floor all the time no matter how loaded down the car is with weight or how hot it is outside. These cars are sold over a variety of climates and it's hard to perfectly optimize them for every possible condition.
If every car were tuned to 'the max' you'd see a lot more longevity issues, check engine lights and failed smog tests etc.
Given the realities that car manufacturers have to work with, I'd go as far to say that they are indeed maxing out what they can while having your engine being reliable for a few hundred K miles. I hate cars nailed it spot on along with Ken199TL.
Do you guys honestly think that a Hennesy 1200bblhp viper is going to last 100K miles? not likely...
Do you guys honestly think that a Hennesy 1200bblhp viper is going to last 100K miles? not likely...
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