what size wrench is the oil nut?
#2
Registered Member
I think it's 17mm. Just crawl under there and try a few until you get a hit. Don' forget to use a torque wrench when re-installing the drain plug. Steel threads and aluminum threads are not the best of friends when too much torque is applied.
#5
One on the right for me
Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
I think it's 17mm. Just crawl under there and try a few until you get a hit. Don' forget to use a torque wrench when re-installing the drain plug. Steel threads and aluminum threads are not the best of friends when too much torque is applied.
I second not using too much torque. Pan is really easy to fuck up if you overtighten the plug.
#6
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To avoid over torque, before changing your oil, use a sharpie pen and draw a line from the oil pan bolt to the oil pan. So when you re-torque the bolt after you finish draining the oil, just match the line up.
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#8
Registered Member
Originally Posted by bhelsdon
its a 17mm I would suggest using a 6 point socket if you can. 6 point sockets fit perfectly and will help to avoid rounding the head of the bolt.
Use a torque wrench.. that way you KNOW you've done it right. I had to buy a "special" torque wrench for my TLs. It's around 1 foot long and is metered in inch/pounds. My other 2 torque wrenches are too long and I can't turn them on the drain plug to tighten it. And you should never use a swivel with a torque wrench since it changes the amount of torque. The "special" torque wrench works perfectly and I use 360 in/lbs for the drain plug.
#9
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by acb45
To avoid over torque, before changing your oil, use a sharpie pen and draw a line from the oil pan bolt to the oil pan. So when you re-torque the bolt after you finish draining the oil, just match the line up.
#10
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Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
Heh, Heh. If he gets to the point where he has round the bolt's head, he has probably already screwed up the pan;'s threads. Not a good thing.
Use a torque wrench.. that way you KNOW you've done it right. I had to buy a "special" torque wrench for my TLs. It's around 1 foot long and is metered in inch/pounds. My other 2 torque wrenches are too long and I can't turn them on the drain plug to tighten it. And you should never use a swivel with a torque wrench since it changes the amount of torque. The "special" torque wrench works perfectly and I use 360 in/lbs for the drain plug.
Use a torque wrench.. that way you KNOW you've done it right. I had to buy a "special" torque wrench for my TLs. It's around 1 foot long and is metered in inch/pounds. My other 2 torque wrenches are too long and I can't turn them on the drain plug to tighten it. And you should never use a swivel with a torque wrench since it changes the amount of torque. The "special" torque wrench works perfectly and I use 360 in/lbs for the drain plug.
Don't forget to use a six point socket with that torque wrench.
#11
Registered Member
Originally Posted by Jesstzn
If your doing this without a torque wrench I think your going to find the method is flawed. If there is a gasket involved they compress and threads will change depending on the temp of the pan etc ...
#12
Wow, you guys are really anal, aren't you? 1st of all, anybody who is asking for what size socket to use to remove an oil pan drain plug needs to simply take his car into the dealer or quick-lube shop. He doesn't need torque specs and the like.
Also, what's with freaking out about precision torquing a drain plug? I mean really, just use some common sense here and apply a typical amount of force to create a good seal. If you change your own oil, and do routine maintenance on your car and home, you know how much force to use. I've never torqued my drain plug, I've never had a leak, and I've never stripped any threads. I always just give it a good firm tug on the ratchet where I know it won't come loose (it's not like it's holding anything super critical together where I risk warping important components of car with the wrong torque.) I know, I know - If all of the oil drains out of my car, it's pretty critical. It's not gonna happen, unless I forget to install the plug (which using a torque wrench wouldn't help!)
A drain plug on an oil pan is not torque sensitive like lug-nuts and head-bolts. Some of you have too much time on your hands and you're probably scaring this oil-change noobie into taking his car in for service anyway (maybe that's a good thing!)
Also, what's with freaking out about precision torquing a drain plug? I mean really, just use some common sense here and apply a typical amount of force to create a good seal. If you change your own oil, and do routine maintenance on your car and home, you know how much force to use. I've never torqued my drain plug, I've never had a leak, and I've never stripped any threads. I always just give it a good firm tug on the ratchet where I know it won't come loose (it's not like it's holding anything super critical together where I risk warping important components of car with the wrong torque.) I know, I know - If all of the oil drains out of my car, it's pretty critical. It's not gonna happen, unless I forget to install the plug (which using a torque wrench wouldn't help!)
A drain plug on an oil pan is not torque sensitive like lug-nuts and head-bolts. Some of you have too much time on your hands and you're probably scaring this oil-change noobie into taking his car in for service anyway (maybe that's a good thing!)
#13
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Originally Posted by ogiewon
Wow, you guys are really anal, aren't you? 1st of all, anybody who is asking for what size socket to use to remove an oil pan drain plug needs to simply take his car into the dealer or quick-lube shop. He doesn't need torque specs and the like.
Also, what's with freaking out about precision torquing a drain plug? I mean really, just use some common sense here and apply a typical amount of force to create a good seal. If you change your own oil, and do routine maintenance on your car and home, you know how much force to use. I've never torqued my drain plug, I've never had a leak, and I've never stripped any threads. I always just give it a good firm tug on the ratchet where I know it won't come loose (it's not like it's holding anything super critical together where I risk warping important components of car with the wrong torque.) I know, I know - If all of the oil drains out of my car, it's pretty critical. It's not gonna happen, unless I forget to install the plug (which using a torque wrench wouldn't help!)
A drain plug on an oil pan is not torque sensitive like lug-nuts and head-bolts. Some of you have too much time on your hands and you're probably scaring this oil-change noobie into taking his car in for service anyway (maybe that's a good thing!)
Also, what's with freaking out about precision torquing a drain plug? I mean really, just use some common sense here and apply a typical amount of force to create a good seal. If you change your own oil, and do routine maintenance on your car and home, you know how much force to use. I've never torqued my drain plug, I've never had a leak, and I've never stripped any threads. I always just give it a good firm tug on the ratchet where I know it won't come loose (it's not like it's holding anything super critical together where I risk warping important components of car with the wrong torque.) I know, I know - If all of the oil drains out of my car, it's pretty critical. It's not gonna happen, unless I forget to install the plug (which using a torque wrench wouldn't help!)
A drain plug on an oil pan is not torque sensitive like lug-nuts and head-bolts. Some of you have too much time on your hands and you're probably scaring this oil-change noobie into taking his car in for service anyway (maybe that's a good thing!)
#14
Registered Member
Gentlemen;
I think it's not a bad practice at all to impart good information, such as what one might find in the Service Manual, then the individual can take their own decision as to what method to use. Personally, for most of the cars I've changed oil, I have not used a torque wrench at all and have made out just fine.. but I also knew that the use of one was recommended.
So let bored7one4 decide what's best for his needs based upon what he's heard here. What say?
I think it's not a bad practice at all to impart good information, such as what one might find in the Service Manual, then the individual can take their own decision as to what method to use. Personally, for most of the cars I've changed oil, I have not used a torque wrench at all and have made out just fine.. but I also knew that the use of one was recommended.
So let bored7one4 decide what's best for his needs based upon what he's heard here. What say?
#15
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Man o' man! How many replies does it take to answer this simple question? Once the first person responded with the correct socket, 17 mm, we could have all left it at that... And now I've gone and bumped this thread up again.
#17
I think we all agree that it is a 17mm nut. For more info, see this, and other threads in the 3G Garage:
C-004: DIY: Oil Change Checklist with Service Manual Scan
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80273
C-004: DIY: Oil Change Checklist with Service Manual Scan
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80273
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