What Oil/Filter are you using?
07-02-2005, 11:27 PM
#122
Moderator
Thread Starter
Tim,
From my understanding, you seem to have a problem with ring seal. The reason why you're getting consumption once you get past 3-5K on the oil is because dirty oil does not have as good ring seal as clean oil.
This is normally a non-issue for cars that don't have any issues with ring seal, but for some reason, yours does. In your case, I suggest running one cycle of Auto-RX with a conventional oil for both the clean and rinse phases, make sure you run the rinse phase for the full 3000 miles.
This should cut down most of the consumption once the oil gets dirty, if not eliminate it.
Michael
From my understanding, you seem to have a problem with ring seal. The reason why you're getting consumption once you get past 3-5K on the oil is because dirty oil does not have as good ring seal as clean oil.
This is normally a non-issue for cars that don't have any issues with ring seal, but for some reason, yours does. In your case, I suggest running one cycle of Auto-RX with a conventional oil for both the clean and rinse phases, make sure you run the rinse phase for the full 3000 miles.
This should cut down most of the consumption once the oil gets dirty, if not eliminate it.
Michael
07-02-2005, 11:35 PM
#123
Moderator
Thread Starter
The Auto-RX helps improve ring seal, and these results below prove it.
Link
Please take a look at the comments by Terry (also owner of the car) in this thread about Auto-RX. He is a professional tribologist and the oil analysis results show how Auto-RX improved ring seal, lowered nitration levels (improved combustion efficiency, also because of new plugs/wires), and the lowered sulfur levels due to less fuel additives entering due to improved ring seal.
Michael
Link
Please take a look at the comments by Terry (also owner of the car) in this thread about Auto-RX. He is a professional tribologist and the oil analysis results show how Auto-RX improved ring seal, lowered nitration levels (improved combustion efficiency, also because of new plugs/wires), and the lowered sulfur levels due to less fuel additives entering due to improved ring seal.
Michael
07-05-2005, 04:06 PM
#126
Moderator
Thread Starter
Auto-RX: Deep cleaner, removes deposits slowly without having a negative effect on seals. Cleans slowly, and does not thin out the host oil nor does it have any effect on the viscosity. Its an ester based product, not kerosene.
LC: Dissolves Carbon buildup and helps maintain a high flashpoint (keeps volatility low and oil in a like new condition), also has a positive effect on the TBN.
Both products can only be purchased online at their websites, auto-rx.com and lubecontrol.com.
Michael
LC: Dissolves Carbon buildup and helps maintain a high flashpoint (keeps volatility low and oil in a like new condition), also has a positive effect on the TBN.
Both products can only be purchased online at their websites, auto-rx.com and lubecontrol.com.
Michael
07-06-2005, 10:00 AM
#130
Originally Posted by Michael Wan
Jeez...how long is it going to take you to use up all 30???
Michael
Michael
07-06-2005, 04:46 PM
#131
Moderator
Thread Starter
Ron,
Probably closer to 15...considering that the average owner does a 6-mo OCI..now of course, he can share some with the rest of us on AZ before the oil filters rust out.
Michael
Probably closer to 15...considering that the average owner does a 6-mo OCI..now of course, he can share some with the rest of us on AZ before the oil filters rust out.
Michael
07-07-2005, 11:38 AM
#132
Originally Posted by rka4570
Just purchased 30 pack of OEM (Filtec) filters for $130.00 ($4.33 ea).
The shelf life of those gaskets is 5 years and past that time, the manufacturer will not warranty it's performance.
Best regards from Canada
frenchnew
07-07-2005, 02:09 PM
#133
Originally Posted by frenchnew
You better find a way to use them up within the next 5 years as that gasket will dry out.
The shelf life of those gaskets is 5 years and past that time, the manufacturer will not warranty it's performance.
Best regards from Canada
frenchnew
The shelf life of those gaskets is 5 years and past that time, the manufacturer will not warranty it's performance.
Best regards from Canada
frenchnew
07-08-2005, 05:06 PM
#134
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My recipe
Havoline 5w20 GF-4
Honda A01 Filtech Filter
Do the change myself and so far...
changed out factory fill+filter at 1500 mi
changed again at 3500 mi
Just changed by dealership at 6200 miles (had a free coupon so why not)
They used Honda Oil which seems well regarded and A01 Filtech (phew, dodged the A02, probably would have changed it right out when I got home if they used that one).
Interestingly enough, with my car going in for it's first A1 service, they did the rotate balance of the wheels, check this and that...etc... and they found that my passenger side CV boot had "been hit" by something and was slinging grease. What really suprised me is that they covered it under warranty. Awfully nice, eh? I'm probably being a bit cynical, but I am wondering if there was actually a defect in the boot and they just said something hit it and they'll do me the 'favor' of fixing it on the house. I know... bit of a pessismistic attitude, but those types of things are usually NOT taken care of. I either have a sweetheart of a dealer, or they know how to spin a thing. Either way, at least it was taken care of and cost me nothing!
Since I do it myself, considering the next change at 10,000 and moving to synthetic.... I dunno...
Honda A01 Filtech Filter
Do the change myself and so far...
changed out factory fill+filter at 1500 mi
changed again at 3500 mi
Just changed by dealership at 6200 miles (had a free coupon so why not)
They used Honda Oil which seems well regarded and A01 Filtech (phew, dodged the A02, probably would have changed it right out when I got home if they used that one).
Interestingly enough, with my car going in for it's first A1 service, they did the rotate balance of the wheels, check this and that...etc... and they found that my passenger side CV boot had "been hit" by something and was slinging grease. What really suprised me is that they covered it under warranty. Awfully nice, eh? I'm probably being a bit cynical, but I am wondering if there was actually a defect in the boot and they just said something hit it and they'll do me the 'favor' of fixing it on the house. I know... bit of a pessismistic attitude, but those types of things are usually NOT taken care of. I either have a sweetheart of a dealer, or they know how to spin a thing. Either way, at least it was taken care of and cost me nothing!
Since I do it myself, considering the next change at 10,000 and moving to synthetic.... I dunno...
07-08-2005, 05:25 PM
#135
Racer
I drive about 22,000 miles a year mostly city, stop and go and some long highway trips. I have read allot of the these posts, but am a bit confused. I only have 2000 miles on my 6MT TL, so a bit off on my next oil change. I used Mobil 1 and standard Fram filters in my 98' SHO. Valvoline Synth blend and what ever they provided at the Valvoline quick change filter in my RSX Type S. i never had any issues for 105,000 miles in my SHO and 62,000 miles in my RSX. I plan to keep my TL for awhile.
So does Valvoline Synthetic Synth power and a Pure One Filter sound good at 5000 mile changes?
So does Valvoline Synthetic Synth power and a Pure One Filter sound good at 5000 mile changes?
07-08-2005, 05:28 PM
#136
Moderator
Thread Starter
Yeah, dino will do the job. The Valvoline Blend at 5,000 mile service intervals will be fine for the TL...there is no need for synthetic if you plan to change every 3500-5000 mile service intervals.
Michael
Michael
07-08-2005, 05:42 PM
#137
Racer
Originally Posted by Michael Wan
Yeah, dino will do the job. The Valvoline Blend at 5,000 mile service intervals will be fine for the TL...there is no need for synthetic if you plan to change every 3500-5000 mile service intervals.
Michael
Michael
07-08-2005, 08:16 PM
#139
On my 95 Accord:
Mobil1 Synth 5w-30 until 220k miles
Honda OEM filter
7500 miles interval
This car is at 223k miles and the seals start leaking, maybe rear main seal. The engine loses oil considerably, maybe due to the leaking seal, so I switched to Havoline 5w-30 every 5000 miles.
On my 05 TL:
Havoline 5w-30 (my local Walmart doesn't carry 5w-20), replacing factory fill at 3000 miles (50% MID) and Honda OEM filter (the dreaded Honeywell). I'll drain the Havoline at 6000 miles (or whenever the MID shows 0%) and fill it with Mobil1 Synth 5w-20. I'm going to use either PureOne or Honda OEM filter and follow the MID.
Mobil1 Synth 5w-30 until 220k miles
Honda OEM filter
7500 miles interval
This car is at 223k miles and the seals start leaking, maybe rear main seal. The engine loses oil considerably, maybe due to the leaking seal, so I switched to Havoline 5w-30 every 5000 miles.
On my 05 TL:
Havoline 5w-30 (my local Walmart doesn't carry 5w-20), replacing factory fill at 3000 miles (50% MID) and Honda OEM filter (the dreaded Honeywell). I'll drain the Havoline at 6000 miles (or whenever the MID shows 0%) and fill it with Mobil1 Synth 5w-20. I'm going to use either PureOne or Honda OEM filter and follow the MID.
07-14-2005, 01:09 PM
#140
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Wix (NAPA GOLD) or Purolator 1
5W 20 in Summer, 5W 30 in Winter Castro Dino (Last car had 207,000 with the engine in great shape, why use anything but Dino. Save your money for other things. Oh Yeah, I change every 3,000 miles in the driveway, takes about 20 min.
5W 20 in Summer, 5W 30 in Winter Castro Dino (Last car had 207,000 with the engine in great shape, why use anything but Dino. Save your money for other things. Oh Yeah, I change every 3,000 miles in the driveway, takes about 20 min.
07-19-2005, 10:04 PM
#141
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oem filter
mobil 1
every 3000 miles.
it's better to change it out early than late.
imagine having oil starvation..ur going to wear out ur bearings and when that happens, your rod might end up flying out of ur block.
mobil 1
every 3000 miles.
it's better to change it out early than late.
imagine having oil starvation..ur going to wear out ur bearings and when that happens, your rod might end up flying out of ur block.
07-20-2005, 09:39 AM
#143
Moderator
Thread Starter
chas22,
Hey! I didn't know that Fidel Castro made engine oil as well! :lol:
BTW, dino is usually good for 5,000 miles, and 5w-20 is a better product as most 5w-20 oils have to blends in order to meet some specs.
Michael
Hey! I didn't know that Fidel Castro made engine oil as well! :lol:
BTW, dino is usually good for 5,000 miles, and 5w-20 is a better product as most 5w-20 oils have to blends in order to meet some specs.
Michael
07-20-2005, 02:29 PM
#144
Originally Posted by Michael Wan
chas22,
Hey! I didn't know that Fidel Castro made engine oil as well! :lol:
BTW, dino is usually good for 5,000 miles, and 5w-20 is a better product as most 5w-20 oils have to blends in order to meet some specs.
Michael
Hey! I didn't know that Fidel Castro made engine oil as well! :lol:
BTW, dino is usually good for 5,000 miles, and 5w-20 is a better product as most 5w-20 oils have to blends in order to meet some specs.
Michael
07-20-2005, 07:50 PM
#148
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Originally Posted by Michael Wan
empathy,
I don't quite understand your logic.
Michael
I don't quite understand your logic.
Michael
do u want me to find pictures of rod's that flew through blocks and created golf sized holes? oil starvation screws up ur bearings and when those go out, so do your rods.
i still work with 3000 miles with mobil 1 and the oem filter. 5 bottles of mobil 1..is about 25 bucks..i've gotten them at half price before. oem filter is about 5 bucks. a washer is 75 cents?
3000 miles for 30 bucks
300 miles for 3 dollars
100 miles for 1 dollar
10 miles 10 cents
1 mile 1 penny.
it's better to be safe than sorry. i am anal about keeping my cars in pristine condition. i only drive about 10,000 miles a year..if that..from last august till now..about 8000 miles...so it's about 100 bucks a year for me for oil changes. i do auto tranny fluid changes every 2-3 oil changes. so basically..once a year...i do this and my family full of mechanics does this. from honda trannies, we've been getting 200+ thousand miles and they've yet to break down. this is for automatic transmissions btw.
07-21-2005, 07:28 AM
#149
Team Nighthawk MechE
Originally Posted by empathy
if u change it 3000 miles, you constantly get fresh oil. if you let it run long, you might be constantly running through metal particles. it builds up over time.
do u want me to find pictures of rod's that flew through blocks and created golf sized holes? oil starvation screws up ur bearings and when those go out, so do your rods.
i still work with 3000 miles with mobil 1 and the oem filter. 5 bottles of mobil 1..is about 25 bucks..i've gotten them at half price before. oem filter is about 5 bucks. a washer is 75 cents?
3000 miles for 30 bucks
300 miles for 3 dollars
100 miles for 1 dollar
10 miles 10 cents
1 mile 1 penny.
it's better to be safe than sorry. i am anal about keeping my cars in pristine condition. i only drive about 10,000 miles a year..if that..from last august till now..about 8000 miles...so it's about 100 bucks a year for me for oil changes. i do auto tranny fluid changes every 2-3 oil changes. so basically..once a year...i do this and my family full of mechanics does this. from honda trannies, we've been getting 200+ thousand miles and they've yet to break down. this is for automatic transmissions btw.
do u want me to find pictures of rod's that flew through blocks and created golf sized holes? oil starvation screws up ur bearings and when those go out, so do your rods.
i still work with 3000 miles with mobil 1 and the oem filter. 5 bottles of mobil 1..is about 25 bucks..i've gotten them at half price before. oem filter is about 5 bucks. a washer is 75 cents?
3000 miles for 30 bucks
300 miles for 3 dollars
100 miles for 1 dollar
10 miles 10 cents
1 mile 1 penny.
it's better to be safe than sorry. i am anal about keeping my cars in pristine condition. i only drive about 10,000 miles a year..if that..from last august till now..about 8000 miles...so it's about 100 bucks a year for me for oil changes. i do auto tranny fluid changes every 2-3 oil changes. so basically..once a year...i do this and my family full of mechanics does this. from honda trannies, we've been getting 200+ thousand miles and they've yet to break down. this is for automatic transmissions btw.
Let's repeat... 3000 miles of normal driving + good group IV oil = you still got some time left outta your oil.
Can you change it and feel better? Absolutely... 100%.
That being said, even though I use Mobil 1 myself (my cars leased so I'm only a smidge anal), I am well aware that those who are truly anal about their cars know that there are much better oils for protection/cost point purposes. Not to mention that using the OEM filter (sometimes, mind you) may not at all be what's best if your truly going for anal car care. (I use the Mobil 1 filter, as it's much better than the stock Fram made filter... The other, non-Fram OEM filter is A-OK I think...)
So mind your feelings young padawan and read... Listen... There are alot of people here you can learn a whole heap from. I know I have. Chime in for sure, I'm sure there is something you can teach us as well, but please no preaching about blown engines... K?
(By the way... Your gonna go make sure those OEM filters you have aren't the Fram ones right?
)
07-21-2005, 07:36 AM
#150
Team Nighthawk MechE
To save you searching
Here:
Oil Filters than will work with our 3G TL's:
15400-PLM-A01 (Stock Filter - Filtech made)
15400-PLM-A02 (Stock Filter - Fram made)
15400-PCX-004 (Someone had this listed as OK)
Mobil 1 #M1-104 (Oversized from stock)
Mobil 1 #M1-110 (Same size as stock)
Purolator PureONE PL14610 (Just checked PepBoys: $5.99)
Hastings LF-386 (??? Some question about this one being right)
Wix 51334
Fram 6607
Fram 7317
Hastings LF240
The favorites of people here are the Mobil 1, the PureOne and the OEM A01 version... (Someone correct me if I am wrong... )
Read the thread here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=filter
Oil Filters than will work with our 3G TL's:
15400-PLM-A01 (Stock Filter - Filtech made)
15400-PLM-A02 (Stock Filter - Fram made)
15400-PCX-004 (Someone had this listed as OK)
Mobil 1 #M1-104 (Oversized from stock)
Mobil 1 #M1-110 (Same size as stock)
Purolator PureONE PL14610 (Just checked PepBoys: $5.99)
Hastings LF-386 (??? Some question about this one being right)
Wix 51334
Fram 6607
Fram 7317
Hastings LF240
The favorites of people here are the Mobil 1, the PureOne and the OEM A01 version... (Someone correct me if I am wrong...
)Read the thread here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=filter
07-21-2005, 08:46 AM
#151
Originally Posted by DarkWraith33
With all due respect, our good friend MichaelWan and RR, have been doing this ALOT longer than you. (Yall've only been drivin' 3+ years so you personally have NEVER put 200k on anything.) And they base their findings and information on scientific analysis of used oil from many different types of cars. The numbers simply do not lie my friend. Having a couple 200k cars in a family does not a car care altering experience make. After all, NASA had how many successful up and downs and millions of miles in between before... (A stretch for an analogy but you get it...)
Let's repeat... 3000 miles of normal driving + good group IV oil = you still got some time left outta your oil.
Can you change it and feel better? Absolutely... 100%.
That being said, even though I use Mobil 1 myself (my cars leased so I'm only a smidge anal), I am well aware that those who are truly anal about their cars know that there are much better oils for protection/cost point purposes. Not to mention that using the OEM filter (sometimes, mind you) may not at all be what's best if your truly going for anal car care. (I use the Mobil 1 filter, as it's much better than the stock Fram made filter... The other, non-Fram OEM filter is A-OK I think...)
So mind your feelings young padawan and read... Listen... There are alot of people here you can learn a whole heap from. I know I have. Chime in for sure, I'm sure there is something you can teach us as well, but please no preaching about blown engines... K?
(By the way... Your gonna go make sure those OEM filters you have aren't the Fram ones right? )
Let's repeat... 3000 miles of normal driving + good group IV oil = you still got some time left outta your oil.
Can you change it and feel better? Absolutely... 100%.
That being said, even though I use Mobil 1 myself (my cars leased so I'm only a smidge anal), I am well aware that those who are truly anal about their cars know that there are much better oils for protection/cost point purposes. Not to mention that using the OEM filter (sometimes, mind you) may not at all be what's best if your truly going for anal car care. (I use the Mobil 1 filter, as it's much better than the stock Fram made filter... The other, non-Fram OEM filter is A-OK I think...)
So mind your feelings young padawan and read... Listen... There are alot of people here you can learn a whole heap from. I know I have. Chime in for sure, I'm sure there is something you can teach us as well, but please no preaching about blown engines... K?
(By the way... Your gonna go make sure those OEM filters you have aren't the Fram ones right?
)
Also empathy your comment about oil starvation and rods flying has nothing to do with changing oil @ 3000 or 6000...you can very well have oil starvation before 3000 if you are leaking oil or burning excess oil (highly unlikely in the TL) ...so chagning oil @ 3000 does not prevent oil starvation
07-21-2005, 12:02 PM
#153
Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by empathy
if u change it 3000 miles, you constantly get fresh oil. if you let it run long, you might be constantly running through metal particles. it builds up over time.
do u want me to find pictures of rod's that flew through blocks and created golf sized holes? oil starvation screws up ur bearings and when those go out, so do your rods.
i still work with 3000 miles with mobil 1 and the oem filter. 5 bottles of mobil 1..is about 25 bucks..i've gotten them at half price before. oem filter is about 5 bucks. a washer is 75 cents?
3000 miles for 30 bucks
300 miles for 3 dollars
100 miles for 1 dollar
10 miles 10 cents
1 mile 1 penny.
it's better to be safe than sorry. i am anal about keeping my cars in pristine condition. i only drive about 10,000 miles a year..if that..from last august till now..about 8000 miles...so it's about 100 bucks a year for me for oil changes. i do auto tranny fluid changes every 2-3 oil changes. so basically..once a year...i do this and my family full of mechanics does this. from honda trannies, we've been getting 200+ thousand miles and they've yet to break down. this is for automatic transmissions btw.
do u want me to find pictures of rod's that flew through blocks and created golf sized holes? oil starvation screws up ur bearings and when those go out, so do your rods.
i still work with 3000 miles with mobil 1 and the oem filter. 5 bottles of mobil 1..is about 25 bucks..i've gotten them at half price before. oem filter is about 5 bucks. a washer is 75 cents?
3000 miles for 30 bucks
300 miles for 3 dollars
100 miles for 1 dollar
10 miles 10 cents
1 mile 1 penny.
it's better to be safe than sorry. i am anal about keeping my cars in pristine condition. i only drive about 10,000 miles a year..if that..from last august till now..about 8000 miles...so it's about 100 bucks a year for me for oil changes. i do auto tranny fluid changes every 2-3 oil changes. so basically..once a year...i do this and my family full of mechanics does this. from honda trannies, we've been getting 200+ thousand miles and they've yet to break down. this is for automatic transmissions btw.
Now, how does 3K OCIs guarantee that your engine is going to be in prestine condition...it doesn't.
Running oil past 3K does NOT mean you will suffer oil starvation. There are many causes to oil starvation, and the interval isn't always the cause.
I'm not telling you to close your eyes and run your oil for 10-15K and say it is going to be fine, but I think we can all agree that 3K under ALL conditions is considered excessive, especially for M1. Yes, the oil gets dirty, but doesn't mean it has gone bad. As you can tell from oil analysis, an engine wears xxxppm/1,000 miles...it doesn't wear more toward the end than in the beginning, it wears so much per 1,000 miles in many instances. If you're concerned about the cleanliness of the engine oil, I suggest doing a particle count when you have the oil analyzed which will tell you the cleanliness of the oil from a scientific point of view, not just from what your eye tells, since dark oil is not necessairly a bad thing.
Michael
07-22-2005, 01:57 AM
#154
Please note that Hastings Filters LF386 is not reccomended on a 3G TL as per Hastings Filters Application.
Anybody using a filter other than the one reccomended by the filter manufacturer's application could be left without any kind of recourse should a failure occur - Please Read the Filter Manufacturer's Warranty Disclaimer.
Also, the main difference between the reccomended LF240 and the LF386 is as follows;
LF240 - Contains an Anti-Drainback Valve & 14psi By-Pass Valve.
Dimensions: Threads - M20 X 1.5, Height 3-13/32, OD 2-9/16.
LF386 - Contains an Anti-Drainback Valve & 20psi By-Pass Valve.
Dimensions: Threads - M20 X 1.5, Height 4-1/16, OD 3-1/32
You can also add the following filters as being safe to use on a 3G TL -
Baldwin Filters part number B1402 (Currently used on my own car)
Best regards
frenchnew
Anybody using a filter other than the one reccomended by the filter manufacturer's application could be left without any kind of recourse should a failure occur - Please Read the Filter Manufacturer's Warranty Disclaimer.
Also, the main difference between the reccomended LF240 and the LF386 is as follows;
LF240 - Contains an Anti-Drainback Valve & 14psi By-Pass Valve.
Dimensions: Threads - M20 X 1.5, Height 3-13/32, OD 2-9/16.
LF386 - Contains an Anti-Drainback Valve & 20psi By-Pass Valve.
Dimensions: Threads - M20 X 1.5, Height 4-1/16, OD 3-1/32
You can also add the following filters as being safe to use on a 3G TL -
Baldwin Filters part number B1402 (Currently used on my own car)
Best regards
frenchnew
Originally Posted by DarkWraith33
Here:
Oil Filters than will work with our 3G TL's:
15400-PLM-A01 (Stock Filter - Filtech made)
15400-PLM-A02 (Stock Filter - Fram made)
15400-PCX-004 (Someone had this listed as OK)
Mobil 1 #M1-104 (Oversized from stock)
Mobil 1 #M1-110 (Same size as stock)
Purolator PureONE PL14610 (Just checked PepBoys: $5.99)
Hastings LF-386 (??? Some question about this one being right)
Wix 51334
Fram 6607
Fram 7317
Hastings LF240
The favorites of people here are the Mobil 1, the PureOne and the OEM A01 version... (Someone correct me if I am wrong... )
Read the thread here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=filter
Oil Filters than will work with our 3G TL's:
15400-PLM-A01 (Stock Filter - Filtech made)
15400-PLM-A02 (Stock Filter - Fram made)
15400-PCX-004 (Someone had this listed as OK)
Mobil 1 #M1-104 (Oversized from stock)
Mobil 1 #M1-110 (Same size as stock)
Purolator PureONE PL14610 (Just checked PepBoys: $5.99)
Hastings LF-386 (??? Some question about this one being right)
Wix 51334
Fram 6607
Fram 7317
Hastings LF240
The favorites of people here are the Mobil 1, the PureOne and the OEM A01 version... (Someone correct me if I am wrong...
)Read the thread here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=filter
08-03-2005, 12:16 PM
#155
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Michael,
My mechanic just put Amalie Pro Synthetic Blend 5W-20 and an ACDelco filter. I do the 3750-mile thing (Accord V6).
I hadn't seen or heard of Amalie in a very long, long time. I read the specs of the oil off the Amalie website, and they sound ok. Here's an excerpt:
These high performance motor oils are engineered and formulated to meet API SM/CF and ILSAC GF-4 and exceed the standard for the Thermal Engine Oil Stability Test (TEOST MHT) and the Ford M2C 930-A, which supersedes M2C153-H requirements.
Continually tested and proven in professional racecars, Amalie PRO High Performance Synthetic Blend Motor Oils are the Official Motor Oils of the International Hot Rod Association (IHRA).
Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
My mechanic just put Amalie Pro Synthetic Blend 5W-20 and an ACDelco filter. I do the 3750-mile thing (Accord V6).
I hadn't seen or heard of Amalie in a very long, long time. I read the specs of the oil off the Amalie website, and they sound ok. Here's an excerpt:
These high performance motor oils are engineered and formulated to meet API SM/CF and ILSAC GF-4 and exceed the standard for the Thermal Engine Oil Stability Test (TEOST MHT) and the Ford M2C 930-A, which supersedes M2C153-H requirements.
Continually tested and proven in professional racecars, Amalie PRO High Performance Synthetic Blend Motor Oils are the Official Motor Oils of the International Hot Rod Association (IHRA).
Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
08-03-2005, 02:13 PM
#157
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15400-PCX-004 size
For those who has been using 15400-PCX-004 for their TL, how is the size of this filter compare to 15400-PLM-A01? Is it the same size, or bigger, or smaller? Please comment.
08-03-2005, 02:23 PM
#158
Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by alvonchui
For those who has been using 15400-PCX-004 for their TL, how is the size of this filter compare to 15400-PLM-A01? Is it the same size, or bigger, or smaller? Please comment.
As long as the oil filter does not interfere with flow, does not fail, and does not leak, it doesn't really matter as much as you may think.
If your objective is to increase the sump size, then I'd think again. Though good, I'm not how necessary that is unless oil analysis is showing that the oil is being severely stressed and that an increase of the sump capacity is the only way to solve the problem.
Michael
cuz the Pure One PL14610 is the exact same filter i use on my 04 zx10r. 