SodaLuvr

First question for you, at what mileage did you switch to Series 2000?

How many oil changes did you do prior to the switch?

Yes, I'd switch to the Series 3000 5w-30 over the Series 2000 0w-30 since its the same price at about $7/quart, per case, shipped. (at least I can get it that cheap, PM me since I can't discuss any vendors on this public forum)

In addition, I'd definitely have the oil analyzed to make sure that you're not over-estimating the oil's abilities.

Michael

asloudasitgets

i use mobil 1 5w30 with a mobil 1 m105 filter.
isnt the 105 oversized and the 104 regular sized filter>?

asloudasitgets

is there anything wrong with using the m105?

DevTL

1200 Havoline 10w30 MLEP PureOne
3000 Havoline 10w30 MLEP PureOne
6000 M1 10w30 M1-104
I intend to continue M1 10w30 M1-104 each 7500 or 10-20% Mid Thereafter
(Note: 10w30 california car, 3mi commute, M1 Oil due to MADD calendars 1/2 off, M1-104 oversized $3 more then PureOne and impulse buy cleaned out Pep-Boys bought 6 sale)

DarkWraith33

Everyone needs to be careful with the oversized oil filters... Being oversized, going over a big bump could cause the suspension to whack the filter and crack it... Draining all the oil and WHAM... NOT GOOD...

I believe PeterUbers (I THINK?) had this happen to him, but he got lucky and caught it basically in time.

I'm not saying NO to the oversize... Just keep in mind the risk you are running by using it.

frenchnew

If it's only the filter that get's damage!!!

You are risking the whole filter base assembly too every time the filter would get hit. This part is alot more expensive to replace.

There is a reason why Acura chose a small filter for the TL as they did not want the possibility of problems.

Also, from the filter manufacturer's perpective (Please read their Warranty Statement carefully!) you could be in for a big surprise should you ever have problems with a filter that is not listed for your car in their application guide.

Most filter manufacturers state that they will warant their product used on applicable equipment/cars to be free from defect in workmanship and material.

This means that should you use a filter that is not listed in the filter manufacturer's application guide and should the filter fail, you could be without any recourses.

They also cover "Normal Service Intervals" which would mean OEM reccomended Service intervals.


Here is a good source of technical information on filters in general.
http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/index.php

Best regards from Montreal

frenchnew

mg7726

mobil1 5w30
honda filter
5,000

SparkAF

I'm switching from Amsoil Series 2000 to Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30 Heavy Duty Oil.

Tecciztecatl

1) Mobil 1: 5w-30 (summer) / 5w-20 (winter)
2) Mobil 1: M1-104
3) TL's warning @ 10% (approx 6k miles, every 2.5 months)

I have always changed the oil myself on all of my past vehicles, until I bought my first new car, the 04 TL. My second oil change I caught the dealer service manager as he put in the default oil and not Mobil1. They corrected their mistake and gave me a free oil change and an apology, which in my book, is professional conduct. If you make a mistake, admit it that's all I ask - just don't lie!

Anywho, since then I like to do the changes myself, since I know what is going into my baby - who I want to have around for a long time. I bought a nice floor jack (since the TL sits too low to use my old ramps) and will have to get some lower stands also ...but that is ok. Oil changes are a snap and I get that good feeling putting on a good filter and dumpin' in some syn oil.

ChucksCL-S

'00 TL-P mileage 193,000 miles Mobil 1 changed every 6K miles and Wix filter, engine still performs as new in every way, uses no oil between changes. BTW I've beat it to death too (or tried) but is still just screams along with I/H/P and The TB spacers.

JDM5lugHatch

Havoline 5w20 GF4 and Purolator Pure One filter

SodaLuvr

I don't see the reasoning behind using a 5w-30 in the summer, 5w-20s are sufficient. Although the oil will start out at a lower viscosity in the summer since it starts out warmer, there aren't significant differences in operating temperatures in the summer in a car with a modern cooling system.

You'll find no differences in wear with a 5w-20. In fact, Hondas have very tight tolerances a 20wt oil will flow faster upon startup and may even reduce wear.

Michael

Tecciztecatl

Michael,

OK, this was my first fill with 5w-30, since they didn't have 5w-20 and I read many posts and this is what I found.

Honda used to recommend 5w-30, but changed to 5w-20 because of fuel efficiency.

I am also aware of the operating temps, but chose the 5w-20 for winter for easier start-ups in the cold mornings and figured that the 5w-30 would be a little better in the summer time ... the car does run a little warmer. Actually, all my vehicles run warmer in the summer, with that hot air trying to cool it compared to the ice-cold winter air.

I am still confused by the 5w-30 causing more wear? Are you making this assumption based on the fact that the thinner oil will get into tighter places as opposed to the heavier 30w? And they are really not that much different ... I thought that a heavier oil will protect a little better, if you do not take the flow into account.

I am looking forward to your response, as I value your opinion.

Hell, I was using Fram filters until not too long ago!

SodaLuvr

Yes Honda did change from 5w-30 to 5w-20 because of fuel efficiency concerns, but contrary to popular belief, I have yet to find that it actually causes more wear. If you think about it, most oils never reach their intended viscosity; it typically takes 20 miles at highway speeds of 65MPH+ for the oil to reach its normal operating temperature.

Even if you had daily commutes of 50+ miles where the oil has reached its normal operating temperature for much of the trip, the viscosity difference between a 5w-20 and a 5w-30 can be as little as 1-1.5cst. One major advantage of a conventional 5w-20 over a conventional 5w-30 is that there is a lesser span in a 5w-20 than in a 5w-30, which makes the 5w-20 more shear stable than the 5w-30. Most 5w-30s shear into a 20wt with city driving anyway, yet they don’t seem to affect wear. So why not start out with a 5w-20 to begin with? Now with synthetics, someone on BITOG recently posted an analysis on Mobil 1 5w-20 SM used in a 04 Accord V6. Within 5,000 miles, the oil had thickened up to 10.6cst! Mobil’s 0w-20 has always been known to thicken slightly, but this one seemed to REALLY thicken! Mobil 1 5w-20 starts out at 8.8cst according to the PDS, but after only 5,000 miles, it thickened up into a solid 30wt. This could’ve been because of oxidation, but the cause is still unclear.

I apologize that what I wrote was a bit confusing earlier. I meant to say that thicker is not necessarily better, and that an oil too thick cannot flow rapidly nor can it cool quickly. I inadvertently compared 30wts and 20wts, but I meant to compare those ACEA A3/B3 rated borderline 30wt/40wt oils and 20wts; I basically meant to say that Hondas have tight tolerances, so an oil that is too thick for the particular application may actually have a negative effect on wear, since it cannot flow rapidly enough in cold temperatures. Not only that, it will have a needless negative effect on fuel economy!

If you are really interested in attempting to reduce wear, I suggest using a 0w-30 oil because of its excellent flow upon startup. If you look at the PDS, look for the viscosity of the oil when tested at 40C, this will give you an indication of how well it will flow in cold temperatures.

The main disadvantage of many 0-XX oils is their large span. This can lead to oils that tend to be very vulnerable to shearing. However, of the few 0w-30 oils on the market, most of them are very good. Castrol Syntec 0w-30 Made In Germany and Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30 are both very shear stable, though I do have some concerns of German Castrol and Amsoil thickening up into as I call it, “40wt territory.” Amsoil has a tendency to thicken because of an outdated chemistry that they use, thus the oil had internal oxidation issues. Oxidation tends to cause oil to thicken, and is most noticeable with high-speed freeway driving. The solution: Use Lube Control, it is an anti-oxidant which stops most of the thickening, but not all. One example: Recently on BITOG, a Amsoil 0w-30 was run for about 11K in a 02 Odyssey transmission fryer, the ending viscosity was in the mid-12cst range since Lube Control was used. If Lube Control hadn’t been used, the viscosity would’ve probably been in the high 14cst range. German Castrol Syntec seems to thicken as well if used for longer periods of time (7-10K), but no where as much as Amsoil.

However, I’m not exactly fond of either of those oils because they are borderline 30/40wts, and are just too thick IMO for most TL drivers. One user on BITOG used the German Castrol in their TL and found that it made their engine sluggish. I was really disappointed with Exxon Mobil when they dropped their 0w-20, since IMO, it was an oil superior to the current 5w-20 because of its 0w rating.

So for you and for most drivers, a 5w-20 conventional or a 5w-20 synthetic is more than adequate for 99% of those applications. What is more important is that you remember to keep your drains at 5,000 miles for conventional, and 7,500 miles for synthetics and to use oil analysis periodically to check for any problems.

Michael

jdb8805

The Purolator PureONE PL14459 is the same size as WIX 51334 which is larger around and fits older model TLs. Its 2.99 at the local sears. It fit my 2004 ( I only tried it b/c I can't find one around here that is the same size as stock except a FRAM). No leaks at idle. I'll keep a close watch on it. for any sign of leaks

JetJock

1. RedLine 5W-20
2. Mobil 1 Filter
2. 6months due to low usage, then 12 months based on analysis results. *
(5000 miles/year average so far)

* any comments??

Treblig

1) Mobil 1 5W-30
2) OEM Filter
3) 3750 (Dealer Recommendation)

SodaLuvr

JJ,
Leave your car alone. RL 5w-20 is great the way you drive. (Like a Mad Man!) You've paid for it, and Terry Dyson has given you great advice.

Looking forward to your RL 5w-20 analysis in the late summer!

Michael

BiggyMcWang

1) Mobil 1 5W-30
2) FRAM + Napa Oil filters
3) 7000-7500 Miles (Maintenance/Service Light)

Yeah FRAM filters. To stay on topic this is the only post I'm gonna make before I get scolded my moderator . I have run on family cars for over 15 years, no problems, and lab testing results that I had conducted showed no major problems. I have only recently changed to Syntehtic so it's 7000-7500 miles, not ever 2500 miles as i had done long ago with regular oil.

SodaLuvr

Remember, one of the reason I DON'T use Frams is because of cost. Its a rip-off for some POS....they cost like $3-$4 when I can get a Supertech Champion Labs Ecore for $2 or a Premium Plus for $3, and they're better!

Michael

HEK

I'm about to go out and buy oil and filter and was shocked to read that Fram is not a good brand to buy... , I've used Fram for as long as I can remember on all my vehicles and had some last me over 220K miles....so again I may have missed the "blown" filter thread but can someone fill me in?...

HEK

Oh well couldn't wait for a reply...Fram filter and Castrol Syntech will be on my TL... ..someone said ......if it's not broken don't fix it....

mlionel

Switched to Mobil 1 5W-30 and Mobil 105 filter at 68K miles. First oil change with Mobil 1 was in 7.5K miles with oil tested by Blackstone Lab. Per test, oil had about 8.5K miles of life left. The next oil change running Mobil 1 5W-30 I had in 10K miles, with highway miles mostly. I plan to do my oil changes every 8-10K miles running Mobil 1 5W-30. BTW, I have 2000 TLP.

SodaLuvr

NOOOOOOOOOOOOO.

Don't put a Fram Extra Guard Filter in your car! They have poor quality ADBVs and sub-standard construction for a ridiculously high price. Use a Purolator Premium Plus!

Castrol Syntec 5w-20 is only an OKAY oil, there are better synthetics for the same price, Mobil 1 5w-20 or Amsoil XL 5w-20 gets my vote!


Michael

mlionel

I may be reiterating someone’s question, but since I live in Chicago area (Relatively hot summer and cold winter, as you know), what’s wrong in using 5W-30 (my car spec.) vs. 5W-20, if it’s wrong?

BiggyMcWang

Nothing wrong at all. In fact I live in California... 5W-20 is too thin. The thinner, the more likely you car wears it's gears out. My mechanic told me Acura wants this thin oil to squeeze out more miles per gallon at the expense of the engine. Do not go 10W-30 though, that is too thick. 5W-20 is more for cold East Coast and other colder climates.

HEK

TOO late...... , but I went with my instincs and used Fram @ $2.99 and the Syntec for $3.99...so for under $20 I did my oil change...now why would Honda get the filters from Fram if they're crap?...$$$ ??...

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

Recently switched to Mobil1 5w20 from 5w30
Mobil1 filter
3,000 miles, give or take

SodaLuvr

OFFTOPIC: Under $20????How's that possible? $3.99*5=$19.95+$2.99=$22.94 MIN.

Michael

Ron A

Maybe it's $3.99X4. + the filter + tax = right around $19.99

Better check the oil dipstick.

SodaLuvr

OT: Maybe HEK is playing organic chemist....he buys 4 quarts and tops off the remaining half quart or so with whatever he has lying around.

Michael

stklee

First of all, Michael, from what I read so far, you are indeed the oil expert. May I suggest instead of asking everyone what oil and filter they used...why don't you just recommend what is the best for our beloved TL?

BTW, I did my first oil change at around 5500 miles or less than 15% according to the MID. I used the Honda OEM oil filter & Mobil 1 5w-30 synethic oil. Is it okay??

Thanks again,

Sam

HEK

LOL....you made me check my receipt, sorry the Syntech was $2.99/ Qt and the filter $3.99 + 5% MA tax...$19.89 ... ..lol and I'm no chemist...just old.....

Like one said above why not just say use this product period, don't ask us plain folk....we aint' smart, at least I don't claim to be...just creature of habit

Never Stock

Michael

Here is a question on filters. On my 03 3.0 Accord I have used Mobil M-105 & Amsoil SDF-20 filters and Amsoil series 2000 0-30 oil. I am now using Mobil 1 5-30. My engine does not use any oil at all until I reach 3000 to 5000 miles depending on driving conditions. Then very quickly the oil darkens up and the level goes down, if I change the filter the oil clears up slightly and the level again stays up. Amsoil technical says they think that the filter is reaching its capacity and bypassing. I must also say that using the finer filters does keep the oil cleaner looking longer.
What is going on here in your opinion. Oh 1 other note since the engine has hit 30,000 miles the oil stays cleaner longer.

Tim

aiia

Just had my oil change at 3,200mile on the '05. Oil: $7.77 5quarts Pennzoil 5w20. Filter: Fram Tough Guard $4.97. Bought from Walmart. So far, no problem. Will check periodically. . I've notice Tough Guard is almost half way shorter than the original blue honda filter. Any comments?

SodaLuvr

I would've bought the $1.88 or $2.07 Supertech Oil Filter instead.

I would've bought the 5 quart jug of Havoline 5w-20 for <$7.

Michael

SodaLuvr

Tim,
Have a few questions for you.

1) Once you change the oil filter and top-off, how much longer do you tend to run the oil?
2) When you start burning oil between 3-5K, how much oil do you tend to burn?

Side Questions:
1) Have you ever checked your PCV valve? Is it working properly? Have you ever replaced it as part of preventive maintenance?
2) How often do you replace the air filter?

Michael

Never Stock

Michael
1) In the past I've run the oil until it darkens again then change the filter again until I had 12,000 to 15,000 miles on it. Lately only until the oil has 7,500 miles on it.
2) Alot, I would guess that if I let it go it would burn a quart in 1,000 miles.

Side answers
1)No, don't know, no, forgot to check it, how stupid, I should know better.
2)At 15,000 miles. It still looks clean with only a slight grey tint and no oil traces in the filter housing.

Side note
The oem oil fill started to change color by 2,500 miles. At 3,300 I put on a Mobil M-105 and the oil cleaned up, I then changed the oil & filter at 6,000 miles.
Also this car has always given good gas mileage.
I am not a lead foot but I do get on it at times.
Normal mileage in 85% highway 15% city varies between 24-27 mpg. 100% highway, my trips from Simi Valley to Ukiah to visit family, using cruise at the speed limit the car gets between 31.5-33.5 mpg with the hvac on auto.

Tim

SodaLuvr

Tim,
Let me just clarify here once more. So, once you change the oil filter and top-off, the engine burns ZERO oil?

Also, what is the total mileage on this car?

Michael

Never Stock

Michael
Yes that is correct. And that is what has me baffled. This will happen also with a new air filter. It has always done this since using either the Amsoil or Mobil 1 filters. I have never run a Honda filter for more than 3300 miles. At present the car has 39601 miles.

Tim