What Oil/Filter are you using?
#42
Originally Posted by Michael Wan
It's funny how we've been testing 20wts in applications calling for 30 and 40wts will no ill-effects, consumption, or increased wear. Its now time for me to join in.
Michael
Not to get further OT, but have any of these tests of 20wt vs. 30wt. included operation in extreme heat? For example my Dad lives in Phoenix and regulary drives in temps over 110, and sometimes as high as 120. I was with him once when the outside reading (this was in a Q45) was 125, although granted heat could have been reflecting off the pavement.
With summer coming, any input on the use of 5w-20 vs.5w-30 in these types of conditions?
#44
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by ntaylor
MW & RR,
I ran Castrol Syntec since I can remember in my '86 VW GTI and got 175K out of it before an accident; so far the same in my '99 CR-V. My 2005 TL is just over 5K and from what I'm learning from you and others, it is past due for its first change even though MID says 30%.
Question: your analyses (is that plural correct?) of various oils have been extremely helpful. For someone who wants to learn even more, is there a "secret decoder ring" that would help me evaluate some of the data for oils that I haven't seen you discuss (e.g. Castrol)? I'm partial to it based on my own experience, but I'd like to see the science without troubling you any more than I already am by asking this question. I've already learned a ton and it is much appreciated.
BTW, an anecdote/question that might be a good learning tool for others: somewhere around 150K on my GTI it started burning coolant so bad you could see the white smoke; they replaced the head gasket, didn't solve the problem, turned out to be a cracked head, which was replaced. Around the same time, however, the dealer also had high praise for my engine block and wear, stating that my compression was in better shape than most new cars. Does this make (1) a good case for used oil analysis, as I've seen debated on other threads; (2) a case against the Castrol Syntec; or (3) both/neither. thanks.
I ran Castrol Syntec since I can remember in my '86 VW GTI and got 175K out of it before an accident; so far the same in my '99 CR-V. My 2005 TL is just over 5K and from what I'm learning from you and others, it is past due for its first change even though MID says 30%.
Question: your analyses (is that plural correct?) of various oils have been extremely helpful. For someone who wants to learn even more, is there a "secret decoder ring" that would help me evaluate some of the data for oils that I haven't seen you discuss (e.g. Castrol)? I'm partial to it based on my own experience, but I'd like to see the science without troubling you any more than I already am by asking this question. I've already learned a ton and it is much appreciated.
BTW, an anecdote/question that might be a good learning tool for others: somewhere around 150K on my GTI it started burning coolant so bad you could see the white smoke; they replaced the head gasket, didn't solve the problem, turned out to be a cracked head, which was replaced. Around the same time, however, the dealer also had high praise for my engine block and wear, stating that my compression was in better shape than most new cars. Does this make (1) a good case for used oil analysis, as I've seen debated on other threads; (2) a case against the Castrol Syntec; or (3) both/neither. thanks.
Michael
#45
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by gustaf
Doesn't FRAM make the filters for Honda?? My wife has an Odyssey and the filter I got at the dealer says made by FRAM even though it has Honda written on it and a Honda PN.
Michael
#46
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4,275 miles (MID said 40%): Motorcraft 5w-20 Synblend, 15 oz MLEP, Honda OEM filter (15400-PLM-A01)
8,725 miles (MID said 40%): Mobil Clean 7500 5w-30 / M1 0w-20 mix, Honda OEM Filter (15400-PLM-A01)
UOA on Motorcraft oil, 4,450 miles, typical amount of break in metals, and TBN = 2.8
Currently at 10,500 miles, I plan to change again at 14,000 miles using Mobil Clean 7500 5w-20, and will do another UOA.
8,725 miles (MID said 40%): Mobil Clean 7500 5w-30 / M1 0w-20 mix, Honda OEM Filter (15400-PLM-A01)
UOA on Motorcraft oil, 4,450 miles, typical amount of break in metals, and TBN = 2.8
Currently at 10,500 miles, I plan to change again at 14,000 miles using Mobil Clean 7500 5w-20, and will do another UOA.
#47
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by alvon
4,275 miles (MID said 40%): Motorcraft 5w-20 Synblend, 15 oz MLEP, Honda OEM filter (15400-PLM-A01)
8,725 miles (MID said 40%): Mobil Clean 7500 5w-30 / M1 0w-20 mix, Honda OEM Filter (15400-PLM-A01)
UOA on Motorcraft oil, 4,450 miles, typical amount of break in metals, and TBN = 2.8
Currently at 10,500 miles, I plan to change again at 14,000 miles using Mobil Clean 7500 5w-20, and will do another UOA.
8,725 miles (MID said 40%): Mobil Clean 7500 5w-30 / M1 0w-20 mix, Honda OEM Filter (15400-PLM-A01)
UOA on Motorcraft oil, 4,450 miles, typical amount of break in metals, and TBN = 2.8
Currently at 10,500 miles, I plan to change again at 14,000 miles using Mobil Clean 7500 5w-20, and will do another UOA.
Will you please send me a copy of the UOA to post on BITOG? Please PM me.
Michael
#48
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by traidsganster
I live in NJ, I used to do my drivings 50% on 295N(highway) and 50% on stop&go (city), I change my oil at 5000 miles with Mobil one. I did it twice, my car currently has 12,000miles. Now it's a pleasure car, I drive it only on weekends and on highway... I plan to change it every 7500.
I'm more worried about my transmission fluid than the engine oil as the TL in the previous model have a history of bad trannies...
I plan on doing synthetic tranny fluid, but not sure if it's recommended..
comments?
I'm more worried about my transmission fluid than the engine oil as the TL in the previous model have a history of bad trannies...
I plan on doing synthetic tranny fluid, but not sure if it's recommended..
comments?
Michael
#49
Not a Blowhole
The STP filter I examined looked and had similar markings to the Mobil1 filter in the same size, with perhaps a slightly thinner case - they are both made by Champion, so I think the STP is a contender.
#50
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Road Rage
The STP filter I examined looked and had similar markings to the Mobil1 filter in the same size, with perhaps a slightly thinner case - they are both made by Champion, so I think the STP is a contender.
However, I'm not a big fan of the fragile filter media in the low-end Champion Labs filters. In addition, its somewhat unclear whether or not they'll switch to the new Ecore design; if they do, no STP for me!!!
Michael
#51
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by matelot
what's a "Lube Control" ?
In one of the threads you created:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113480I had answered the question in my post, which was post #8.
Thanks,
Michael
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1) LE 10w30 (Lubrication Engineers)
2) TL OEM (got them free, whatever)
3) 5,000 (this may change depending on OA)
I'm not sure the OEM filters are so bad when your intervals are <5k. Certainly little to worry about for 3k drains. My next fill will be the cheapo Halvoline recomended by both M Wan and RR. I'll use the same filters and use exact 5k intervals for both. It will be interesting to see if there is any difference between the results of $$$$ vs $. I'll then go for higher intervals since it will be well broken in and go with LC and either M1 filters or Pur. Can't wait, my TL is just a big science project.
Love this thread, thanks to all participants.
2) TL OEM (got them free, whatever)
3) 5,000 (this may change depending on OA)
I'm not sure the OEM filters are so bad when your intervals are <5k. Certainly little to worry about for 3k drains. My next fill will be the cheapo Halvoline recomended by both M Wan and RR. I'll use the same filters and use exact 5k intervals for both. It will be interesting to see if there is any difference between the results of $$$$ vs $. I'll then go for higher intervals since it will be well broken in and go with LC and either M1 filters or Pur. Can't wait, my TL is just a big science project.
Love this thread, thanks to all participants.
#55
@ RR and Mwan....I was under the impression that the motorcraft 5w 30 synblend was as good as the havoline, yet havoline seems to be the most recommended. Am I misinformed?....should I change to havoline?
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Originally Posted by brianmski
@ RR and Mwan....I was under the impression that the motorcraft 5w 30 synblend was as good as the havoline, yet havoline seems to be the most recommended. Am I misinformed?....should I change to havoline?
If you really love your car, send in your oil samples to Blackstone or Butler. That way you'll KNOW how your oil is doing without guessing. It's also a great way to give back to the Acurazine community when you share the results.
#59
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by WOOCHOW
currently I'm using RedLine 5w-30 with the Acura/Fram filter. Freaking thing hasn't blown up yet!
Michael
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3,000, Honda 5W-20 Oil with MLEP, Honda 15400-PLM-A01 filter
6,100, Honda 5W-20 Oil with MLEP, Honda 15400-PCX-004 filter (S2000)
10,000, Mobil 1 5w-30, Honda 15400-PCX-004 filter (S2000)
and counting......
6,100, Honda 5W-20 Oil with MLEP, Honda 15400-PCX-004 filter (S2000)
10,000, Mobil 1 5w-30, Honda 15400-PCX-004 filter (S2000)
and counting......
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Originally Posted by subinf
is there any harm in changing your oil too often? I change mine with syn oil every 3k.
If you have certain severe condtions that require the short drains, just use a quality dino oil like the Halvoline or Motorcraft.
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Originally Posted by subinf
I thought another purpose of syn oil was that it was more refined and contained less impurities than regular oil.
I'll tell you what...don't believe me, don't take my word for it just just TRY it. Use Halvoline 5-20 and use the extra money you saved on an oil analysis. If I'm not right, go back to your way, deal?
#66
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by SparkAF
Amsoil Oil Filter SDF13
Amsoil Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30
Change evey 6 months
Amsoil Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30
Change evey 6 months
But for most apps, I've found that Amsoil XL-7500 5w-20 performs just as well for a lot less, yes, its a GrpIII Syn, but it does a great job.
I'd take Amsoil Series 3000 5w-30 Diesel Oil over Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30 any day because Series 2000 has a nasty tendency to thicken in many applications, the Honda V6 is one of them. The Amsoil Series 3000 is very stable viscosity wise and does not cost any more than the Series 2000. They're both about $7/quart when purchased in a case, shipped.
Michael
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Originally Posted by Michael Wan
You could easily extended it to 1 year.
But for most apps, I've found that Amsoil XL-7500 5w-20 performs just as well for a lot less, yes, its a GrpIII Syn, but it does a great job.
I'd take Amsoil Series 3000 5w-30 Diesel Oil over Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30 any day because Series 2000 has a nasty tendency to thicken in many applications, the Honda V6 is one of them. The Amsoil Series 3000 is very stable viscosity wise and does not cost any more than the Series 2000. They're both about $7/quart when purchased in a case, shipped.
Michael
But for most apps, I've found that Amsoil XL-7500 5w-20 performs just as well for a lot less, yes, its a GrpIII Syn, but it does a great job.
I'd take Amsoil Series 3000 5w-30 Diesel Oil over Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30 any day because Series 2000 has a nasty tendency to thicken in many applications, the Honda V6 is one of them. The Amsoil Series 3000 is very stable viscosity wise and does not cost any more than the Series 2000. They're both about $7/quart when purchased in a case, shipped.
Michael
Where did you hear/read the 2000 thinkens?
#68
One on the right for me
Originally Posted by JackSprat01
I've never heard that one before. I'd go with
I'll tell you what...don't believe me, don't take my word for it just just TRY it. Use Halvoline 5-20 and use the extra money you saved on an oil analysis. If I'm not right, go back to your way, deal?
I'll tell you what...don't believe me, don't take my word for it just just TRY it. Use Halvoline 5-20 and use the extra money you saved on an oil analysis. If I'm not right, go back to your way, deal?
I am not doubting anything any of you are saying about motor oil...I was unsure about something so asked a question. I dont pay any money for my oil changes, I have not paid for an oil change in 6 years and I'm not about to...i understand that not everyone is in that boat and when you do have to pay for something you want to make sure you are getting your moneys worth. I know that if I ever do have to pay for oil changes again I will make sure I know all that I can about it. Until then I'll take what I can get.
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Originally Posted by SparkAF
Mike,
Where did you hear/read the 2000 thinkens?
Where did you hear/read the 2000 thinkens?
#70
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Originally Posted by subinf
I have not paid for an oil change in 6 years and I'm not about to..I'll take what I can get.
#71
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Originally Posted by SparkAF
Mike,
Where did you hear/read the 2000 thinkens?
Where did you hear/read the 2000 thinkens?
Michael
#72
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I have read the last three pages and did searches on oil types/change for the 3G TL and I am still confused.
I will have my first oil change done on Thursday (MID 30% miles: 5100+). I have a coupon for oil change service at teh dealership for $7 (this includes oil, filter, crush washer). Now should I just go with the oil they (the dealership) uses or should I do Havoline 5w-20, Pennzoil 5w-20, Mobil 1 5w-20, or etc...? Purelator one for the oil filter, Honda OEm, or S2000 oil filter?
I'm soo confused. I just want a good working oil and good working oil filter that will keep my 2005 TL running top notch.
Can someone guide me in the right direction please? Thanks. PM me if you like.
I will have my first oil change done on Thursday (MID 30% miles: 5100+). I have a coupon for oil change service at teh dealership for $7 (this includes oil, filter, crush washer). Now should I just go with the oil they (the dealership) uses or should I do Havoline 5w-20, Pennzoil 5w-20, Mobil 1 5w-20, or etc...? Purelator one for the oil filter, Honda OEm, or S2000 oil filter?
I'm soo confused. I just want a good working oil and good working oil filter that will keep my 2005 TL running top notch.
Can someone guide me in the right direction please? Thanks. PM me if you like.
#73
Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by txathlete
I have read the last three pages and did searches on oil types/change for the 3G TL and I am still confused.
I will have my first oil change done on Thursday (MID 30% miles: 5100+). I have a coupon for oil change service at teh dealership for $7 (this includes oil, filter, crush washer). Now should I just go with the oil they (the dealership) uses or should I do Havoline 5w-20, Pennzoil 5w-20, Mobil 1 5w-20, or etc...? Purelator one for the oil filter, Honda OEm, or S2000 oil filter?
I'm soo confused. I just want a good working oil and good working oil filter that will keep my 2005 TL running top notch.
Can someone guide me in the right direction please? Thanks. PM me if you like.
I will have my first oil change done on Thursday (MID 30% miles: 5100+). I have a coupon for oil change service at teh dealership for $7 (this includes oil, filter, crush washer). Now should I just go with the oil they (the dealership) uses or should I do Havoline 5w-20, Pennzoil 5w-20, Mobil 1 5w-20, or etc...? Purelator one for the oil filter, Honda OEm, or S2000 oil filter?
I'm soo confused. I just want a good working oil and good working oil filter that will keep my 2005 TL running top notch.
Can someone guide me in the right direction please? Thanks. PM me if you like.
Michael
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Originally Posted by KawBoy
I change mine every 3k miles, syn oil. My bikes at 1k mile intervals, mineral.
Don
#78
Three Wheelin'
I agree with kilroy about the sythetic and m/c's. Just replaced the oil in my 05 Shadow Aero with Amsoil and it does shift smoother. For the TL (because its leased) I get whatever popular brand 5w- 20 is on sale when I need it (last was with Castrol) and a Walmart Supertech filter. I change it like the MID tells me at about 15-10 percent.
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Originally Posted by KilroyR1
Syn oils in your bike would really improve the shifting. Give it a try and extend the interval.
Don
Don
#80
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by Michael Wan
You could easily extended it to 1 year.
But for most apps, I've found that Amsoil XL-7500 5w-20 performs just as well for a lot less, yes, its a GrpIII Syn, but it does a great job.
I'd take Amsoil Series 3000 5w-30 Diesel Oil over Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30 any day because Series 2000 has a nasty tendency to thicken in many applications, the Honda V6 is one of them. The Amsoil Series 3000 is very stable viscosity wise and does not cost any more than the Series 2000. They're both about $7/quart when purchased in a case, shipped.
Michael
But for most apps, I've found that Amsoil XL-7500 5w-20 performs just as well for a lot less, yes, its a GrpIII Syn, but it does a great job.
I'd take Amsoil Series 3000 5w-30 Diesel Oil over Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30 any day because Series 2000 has a nasty tendency to thicken in many applications, the Honda V6 is one of them. The Amsoil Series 3000 is very stable viscosity wise and does not cost any more than the Series 2000. They're both about $7/quart when purchased in a case, shipped.
Michael
1.) Amsoil Oil Filter
2.) Amsoil Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30
3.) approx every 12k
i know they say it can go up to 35k, but i could never let it go that long....
i have a change due within the next few weeks...are you saying i should go with the 3000 diesel instead of the 2000?...
and if so, what is the longevity of that oil...
thanks!