Very interesting conversation with my transmission builder on the TL
#481
AVB for President!
Thank you!
Now that we have enough test miles, I would skip the D4 and use only type F. D4 is a good fluid but the non FM formula of the type F is better in every way. More holding power, quicker shifts, and better than stock shift quality. I would use type F no matter what brand you go with.
Here you go: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/art.aspx
Here you go: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/art.aspx
#482
Make MyTL Great Again
Crap. Update: After a few days of driving around with the new sensors, it seemed like it wasnt doing it, driving home last night I felt the shuddering, I took it for a drive today to confirm... yup, still shuddering. Looks like mine is beyond simple switch replacement. The clutch packs are probably too worn now.
#484
Advanced
I just did a 3x3 after realizing my fluid looked discolored. About to replace the pressure switches. I had no shifting problems whatsoever before but now i notice a harder shift on 3rd/4th every so often. New fluid is the Z1 ATF, is there a problem with mixing in some Redline or Amsoil racing stuff discussed above?
#485
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I just did a 3x3 after realizing my fluid looked discolored. About to replace the pressure switches. I had no shifting problems whatsoever before but now i notice a harder shift on 3rd/4th every so often. New fluid is the Z1 ATF, is there a problem with mixing in some Redline or Amsoil racing stuff discussed above?
#486
Banned
Just got my pressure switches swapped out too at 41,000 miles just to play it safe. Also the Dealer told me that they use a pump to get out every single drop of the ATF. Has Acura told anyone else this? 2 other dealers told me they do a simple drain and fill and couldn't get all the old fluid out.
#487
takin care of Business in
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the pump is a no no....i would rather throw some metal shavings into my tranny !!!
#488
Banned
#490
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
#491
takin care of Business in
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thanks majofo....i cudnt have explained it better
#492
Banned
#493
Team Owner
Thread Starter
The cooler method is fine which is removing one of the lines and letting it drain into a 5 gallon bucket with the engine running while you're adding new fluid at the dipstick at the same rate the old is coming out.
You start the process with a drain and fill to get 100% new fluid in the pan area and then pull the cooler line and start the engine. This does 100% and takes less fluid and you don't have to drive it around and drain and fill multiple times. Problem is only the Type-S has a true external cooler to tap into unless you've done an aftermarket cooler on the base.
No true power flushes are allowed as it's already been explained.
You start the process with a drain and fill to get 100% new fluid in the pan area and then pull the cooler line and start the engine. This does 100% and takes less fluid and you don't have to drive it around and drain and fill multiple times. Problem is only the Type-S has a true external cooler to tap into unless you've done an aftermarket cooler on the base.
No true power flushes are allowed as it's already been explained.
#494
Cruiser
I been reading for the past 2 hours about switching from Z1 to synthetic i.e. Amsoil or Redline...I have one question, I noticed that most of the post and information was for those who have modified their cars.. i.e. turbo....What is the benefits for non-modified cars to switch over??
#495
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I been reading for the past 2 hours about switching from Z1 to synthetic i.e. Amsoil or Redline...I have one question, I noticed that most of the post and information was for those who have modified their cars.. i.e. turbo....What is the benefits for non-modified cars to switch over??
#496
Advanced
I really appreciate the reply.
A further question, read lots of your posts on 3rd gen and up, I have a 2nd gen 2000 TL is this still ok? And 1x3 just to make sure is one drain and refill of about 3 quarts?
A further question, read lots of your posts on 3rd gen and up, I have a 2nd gen 2000 TL is this still ok? And 1x3 just to make sure is one drain and refill of about 3 quarts?
#498
Team Owner
Thread Starter
It would be taking a chance. It won't hurt anything but since the 2G does not use the DBW there's the possiblity that the shifts could become harsh. The only way to know is to try it but definately do only a 1x3 and then get a few hours of drive time to decide if you want to do another drain and fill of the racing fluid or regular D4.
#499
Team Owner
Thread Starter
It's probably perfect for the Vegas summers. No one that I know of is using it since it's a little thicker than normal. The Racing fluid is just as thick but it has the benefit of no friction modifiers so for our cars it makes the high temp obsolete.
#500
Banned
Now I'm really confused. I thought the friction modifiers were a good thing.
#501
Safety Car
FM is only there for comfortable shifts. Heaven forbid if someone was to feel 0.000001 G force during a shift. Marketing. People want invisible shifts, Acura wants to sell cars.
Read below for more info -
Racing ATF (click here)
#502
Wow, this thread has progressed quite a bit. Sorry I don't have the time at the moment but from what I've read, the Type F fluid without friction modifiers is
Now after the sensors were changed and the change to Type F fluid, has anyone experienced the recurrence of shift problems? I need to do this to the 2G soon, as well as some other things. Car's gettin up there in miles.
Now after the sensors were changed and the change to Type F fluid, has anyone experienced the recurrence of shift problems? I need to do this to the 2G soon, as well as some other things. Car's gettin up there in miles.
#503
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Wow, this thread has progressed quite a bit. Sorry I don't have the time at the moment but from what I've read, the Type F fluid without friction modifiers is
Now after the sensors were changed and the change to Type F fluid, has anyone experienced the recurrence of shift problems? I need to do this to the 2G soon, as well as some other things. Car's gettin up there in miles.
Now after the sensors were changed and the change to Type F fluid, has anyone experienced the recurrence of shift problems? I need to do this to the 2G soon, as well as some other things. Car's gettin up there in miles.
#504
Team Owner
Thread Starter
fm cause slippage. Slippage causes huge wear on transmission clutches. Clutch material is very thin. When worn away, it’s time for a new trans.
Fm is only there for comfortable shifts. Heaven forbid if someone was to feel 0.000001 g force during a shift. Marketing. People want invisible shifts, acura wants to sell cars.
Read below for more info -
racing atf (click here)
Fm is only there for comfortable shifts. Heaven forbid if someone was to feel 0.000001 g force during a shift. Marketing. People want invisible shifts, acura wants to sell cars.
Read below for more info -
racing atf (click here)
#506
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I ran Amsoil ATD for 70,000 miles. It's a great fluid. Judging by the way it shifts I would *guess* it has just a little less FM than Redline D4. The difference is the D4 is consistant from cold to hot and very hot. The Amsoil got sloppier the hotter it got. It would start out with good shifts but after some stop and go in 105 degree weather the shifts got softer.
I'm sure their racing fluid is fine, both fluids have no FM. I believe you get a better base oil with the Redline. For the Vegas climate I believe Redline will be better especially if you plan on extending the intervals.
I'm sure their racing fluid is fine, both fluids have no FM. I believe you get a better base oil with the Redline. For the Vegas climate I believe Redline will be better especially if you plan on extending the intervals.
#508
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Redline Racing for a 2x3 and Redline lighweight (non FM) for a 1x3.
#509
Safety Car
For normal year round usage with emphasis on reducing parasitic drag (for performance reasons), I recommend 2 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 1 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill.
For very cold climate usage with emphasis on reducing parasitic drag, I recommend 1 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 2 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill.
I have been using pure RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I have 5 refills with the lightweight. That makes my entire ATF approx 93% Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I run my car hard. Even thru the Texas summer, I saw zero metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug.
However if your primary concern is longevity of the transmission -
For hot climates, use 3 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) per every refill
For cold climates, use 2 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 1 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill. This is the same recommendation from IHC.
I vote for RedLine. There is something about Amsoil that doesn’t sit well with me….. related to their customer service and secretive proprietary information. If you have a great product, you should be proud to discuss it like Redline is proud to discuss their product.
AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid VS Redline D4 ATF (click here)
#510
Team Owner
Thread Starter
As long as the end result is not thinner than Z1 there's no problem with anything you use. There's a lot of leeway with viscosity considering it's 10xs as thick upon startup and during the warmup process. If I were in a colder climate, my choice would be a mix of lightweight and regular racing with probably 2 of the 3 changes with regular racing.
Where I live with it only getting to 32F in the winter and 110F in the summer I run straight racing.
My only point is don't stress about it because it's not going to make a difference. The only thing I would worry about is running straight lighweight.
Where I live with it only getting to 32F in the winter and 110F in the summer I run straight racing.
My only point is don't stress about it because it's not going to make a difference. The only thing I would worry about is running straight lighweight.
#512
Team Owner
Thread Starter
#513
Advanced
It would be taking a chance. It won't hurt anything but since the 2G does not use the DBW there's the possiblity that the shifts could become harsh. The only way to know is to try it but definately do only a 1x3 and then get a few hours of drive time to decide if you want to do another drain and fill of the racing fluid or regular D4.
It feels like it lets off the accelerator a bit then kicks into gear, this happens kind of quick, every once in a while. Also not limited to 3rd/4th gear.
The only other change is a new ATF filter.
Thanks in advance.
#514
7th Gear
Join Date: Apr 2010
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I just purchased some redline D4 and found a website with a slightly cheaper price. www.racerpartswholesale.com Redline D4 - $9.95/QT. If you live in the Indianapolis area you can also pick it up with a 5% discount included. Hopefully this AFT will solve some issues with my transmission
#515
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I just purchased some redline D4 and found a website with a slightly cheaper price. www.racerpartswholesale.com Redline D4 - $9.95/QT. If you live in the Indianapolis area you can also pick it up with a 5% discount included. Hopefully this AFT will solve some issues with my transmission
#516
Advanced
Ok so, any ideas if changing the 3rd/4th switches would give me softer shifts? I got no slipping just firm shifts. 2000 tl.
Also, is it safe to assume the firm shifts dont cause any damage?
Also, is it safe to assume the firm shifts dont cause any damage?
Last edited by Sanyin; 09-28-2010 at 12:59 AM. Reason: Additional question.
#517
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I was going to do the racing but i had already bought the D4. Im going to change out and then do the racing and lightweight mixture later. thanks for providing so much insight in to this stuff
#518
injured... injured bad
My 05 TL is around 93k miles and I've also been experiencing shuttering in shifts from 3rd to 4th. This only happens when I drive slowly around 2,000 RPMs. I flushed the tranny fluid -- still shutters. I recently came across this thread and just ordered the sensors. Thanks a lot for all your posts, IHC!
I'll post an update when I get these changed out.
-Steve
I'll post an update when I get these changed out.
-Steve
#519
Pro
iTrader: (1)
I just bought my 2 sensors and the Redline Racing fluid. I plan on doing the switch as soon as I get the parts. However, I do live in Maryland where we get hot summers and cold winters. Do I have anything to worry about concerning running the Redline Racing with Maryland winters?
FYI, I plan on doing 1x3 introductions of the Redline over a period of time. I'll probably do a 1x3 every two oil changes or so until I introduce about 9 or 10 new quarts of Redline. Should I not run straight Redline fluid with Maryland winters? I'm anticipating my answer will be something along the line of a mix of z1 and redline will be fine with winters, straight Redline might be riskier. Is that correct?
I'm excited to replace my sensors. I haven't really experienced any problems with my transmission but I wanted to do some preventative maintenance.
FYI, I plan on doing 1x3 introductions of the Redline over a period of time. I'll probably do a 1x3 every two oil changes or so until I introduce about 9 or 10 new quarts of Redline. Should I not run straight Redline fluid with Maryland winters? I'm anticipating my answer will be something along the line of a mix of z1 and redline will be fine with winters, straight Redline might be riskier. Is that correct?
I'm excited to replace my sensors. I haven't really experienced any problems with my transmission but I wanted to do some preventative maintenance.
#520
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
I just bought my 2 sensors and the Redline Racing fluid. I plan on doing the switch as soon as I get the parts. However, I do live in Maryland where we get hot summers and cold winters. Do I have anything to worry about concerning running the Redline Racing with Maryland winters?
FYI, I plan on doing 1x3 introductions of the Redline over a period of time. I'll probably do a 1x3 every two oil changes or so until I introduce about 9 or 10 new quarts of Redline. Should I not run straight Redline fluid with Maryland winters? I'm anticipating my answer will be something along the line of a mix of z1 and redline will be fine with winters, straight Redline might be riskier. Is that correct?
I'm excited to replace my sensors. I haven't really experienced any problems with my transmission but I wanted to do some preventative maintenance.
FYI, I plan on doing 1x3 introductions of the Redline over a period of time. I'll probably do a 1x3 every two oil changes or so until I introduce about 9 or 10 new quarts of Redline. Should I not run straight Redline fluid with Maryland winters? I'm anticipating my answer will be something along the line of a mix of z1 and redline will be fine with winters, straight Redline might be riskier. Is that correct?
I'm excited to replace my sensors. I haven't really experienced any problems with my transmission but I wanted to do some preventative maintenance.
i'm in maryland too, 07 type-s, and just bought the sensors, and 6 qts of redline racing n 3 qts of redline lightweight.
i was planning on doing the sensors n 3x3 tranny drain this weekend. now i'm hesitant if i should introduce the fluid over an extended period of time, or if i should just do it all at once like i orignally planned (and want to do).
hopefully one of the redline god's will chime in and let us know what the deal is.